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V 



TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 



IN 



MEXICO: 



IN 



THE COURSE OF JOURNEYS OF UPWARD OF 
2500 MILES, PERFORMED ON FOOT. 



AN ACCOUNT OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE, 
AND THE AGRICULTURAL AND MINERAL RESOURCES 
OF THAT COUNTRY. • 



BY WILLIAM W. CARPENTEE, 

LATE OF THE U. S. AEMX. 



NEW YORK: 

HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS. 
8 2 CLIFF STREET. 

]85L 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by 

HARPER & BROTHERS, 

In the Clerk's Office for the Southern District of New York. 



PREFACE. 

In taking the liberty of laying before the public 
the following narrative, I deem it proper to make a 
few preliminary remarks. This is the first effort at 
composition, destined for the public eye, that I have 
ever attempted. I therefore beg my readers to re- 
member that they must not expect to meet with high- 
wrought descriptions or well-rounded periods, but a 
plain matter-of-fact narrative, drawn from my note- 
book, which was often penned by stealth or in haste, 
and always obliged to be reduced to such a small 
compass as to enable me to conceal it in an inside 
pocket. The notes I was compelled to make with a 
miserable pencil and on worse paper. Combine these 
difficulties, gentle reader, with a hungry stomach, an 
aching head, and ofttimes a miserable stable or shed 
for a night's shelter, and you will then have some 
idea of the circumstances under which I have often 
been compelled to write my notes. 

I venture to lay the ensuing narrative before the 
public because I believe that it will tend to increase 
the stock of useful knowledge regarding a country of 
great natural resources with which we are now close- 
ly connected, and that it contains much to gratify the 



IV PREFACE. 

lovers of adventures and incidents. I have been 
placed in circumstances which afforded me unusual 
opportunities of learning the character, customs, and 
domestic habits of the higher classes among the Mex- 
icans. My extreme poverty and apparent insignifi- 
cance prevented any suspicions of future disclosures ; 
and I frequently had access to their domestic circles 
when those cloaks of reserve were laid aside which 
are generally worn before foreigners. My path has 
also led me among all the humbler classes of society, 
whose pursuits and dispositions I have carefully ob- 
served, while they considered me unworthy of notice. 
In the course of my journeys I have passed through 
several towns seldom described by travelers, such as 
Salamanca, Gruanahuato, Guadalajara, Ahuacatlan, 
and Tepio ; and I have likewise examined the min- 
eral and aofricultural resources of the various sections 

o 

which I visited. At the same time, the narrative 
abounds with incidents. I trust, therefore, that my 
readers will have no reason to regi'et the time they 
may spend in perusing the following pages. 

I can not conclude these remarks without observ- 
ing that I consider myself indebted solely to a benig- 
nant Providence for the preservation of my life amid 
the numerous perils through which I have passed. 
I was a stranger, destitute of money, and surrounded 
by numerous bands of troops, which were constantly 
scouring the roads and passes. I was subject to 
the jealous scrutiny of every prying alcalde and his 



PREFACE. V 

horde of myrmidons, while I had to encounter the in- 
numerable parties of banditti with which that coun- 
try is infested ; men who would never scruple to rob 
a traveler of his last shirt or shilling ; and I have fre- 
quently suffered the extremes of hunger and thirst, 
besides being exposed to heat and cold, and the heavy 
rains and pestiferous dews of a tropical climate, with 
clothing hardly sufficient to cover my nakedness. 
Etna, N. Y., 24th April, 1851. 



CONTENTS. 



cha/ter I. 

Proceed to Brazos Santiago witl| the Kentucky Volunteer Regiment. 
— Occurrences there. — RemoVe to Burrita. — Appearance of the 
Country. — Soil. — Heavy Rains. — Occupations. — Alarms. — Death 
of an Officer. — Remove to Camargo. — Soil, and state of Agriculture. 
— Advantages of Camargo. — Troops concentrate there. — Depart 
for Monterey. — Wooden Crosses. — Changed Appearance of the 
Countiy. — Silver Mine. — Canales. — Marine. — Fii'st Firing. — Inci- 
dents at the Battle of Monterey Page 13 

CHAPTER n. 

Occurrences after the Capitulation of Monterey. — Araericjln Volun- 
teers killed. — Mexican shot. — Course of General Taylor. — Mexican 
Outrages renewed. — Mode in which they were stopped. — Army 
advance to Saltillo. — A small Guard left at Monterey, of which I am 
One. — We start for Saltillo. — Adventures on the Way. — Haciendas. 
— Remarkable Spot. — False Alarm. — Saltillo. — The Cathedral. — 
Mier Prisoner. — Brigade return to Monterey. — Occupy the Citadel. 
— Occurrences at Monterey. — Start for Camargo, in a Guard, accom- 
panying a Train of Mules. — Scenes and Occurrences by the Way. — 
Adventures of Captain Henry. — Meet a Train of Wagons at Se- 
ralvo, and return with them toward Monterey. — Fellow-travelers. 
— Attacked at Ramos by a strong Force imder General Urrea. — The 
Escort taken Prisoners. — Many of the Teamsters killed. — Fate of 
a Fellow-traveler. — His Daughter 28 

CHAPTER III. 

Treatment of the Prisoners. — Marched to Caterita. — Saddle Mount- 
ain. — A Row. — Petty Plundering. — Plan of Escape. — Arrive at Ur- 
rea's Head-quarters. — Hard Treatment. — Don Juan. — Kindness of 
the Mexican Guard. — Occurrences round Marine. — Proceedings at 
Head-quarters. — High expectations of the Enemy. — Addition to 
our Number. — Marched to Mont Morales. — Incidents. — Great 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

change at Morales. — Quarrel with a Soldier. — Depart for San Luis 
Potosi. — Cruel Treatment. — Arrive at a Town. — Hostility of the In- 
habitants. — Wounded Prisoners. — Statements of Mexican Officers. 
— Suffer from Heat and Dust. — Mountain Passes. — Our Persons 
searched. — Gloomy Surmises. — Appearance of the Country. — Re- 
markable Scene. — Receive kind Treatment from the People. — 
Great Scarcity of Water. — Severe Sufferings. — Generous Conduct 
of a Woman. — Means of procuring Water. — News of Buena Vista. 
— Arrival at San Luis Potosi. — Our Reception Page 55 

CHAPTER IV. 

Mexican Army return from Buena Vista. — Hard Treatment of the Pris- 
oners. — March southward. — Rich Mexican. — Appearance of the 
Country. — Hospitality of the People. — Escorted toward Mexico by 
a Division of the Army. — Condition of the Mexican Forces. — Min- 
eral Wealth. — Arrive at Queretaro. — Our Condition there. — Re- 
lieved by the Charity of some Citizens. — Description of the Town. 
— Aqueducts, Squares, Market, and Convent. — Religious Festival. — 
Our Liberty abridged. — The Cause. — Attempt to Escape. — It 
Fails. — The Result. — Sickness. — Depart for Mexico. — I am left at 
San Juan del Rio. — Delirium and Insensibility. — Recovery. — Sad 
Condition. — Kindness of Visitors. — Hospitality of the Doctor. — He 
becomes my Instructor in Spanish, and learns English of me. — Ho 
makes a surprising Discovery. — Introduced to a Priest and several 
Citizens of the higher Classes. — Different Conduct of the lower 
Classes. — Difficulties with them. — Generosity of the Priest. — Short 
Rations. — Learn a Trade and commence Work. — Discouraging Re- 
sult. — Debarred from proceeding with other Prisoners. — Descrip- 
tion of San Juan del Rio. — Domestic Arrangements of the People. 
— Generous Offer. — A Ball. — Religious Discussion. — Mexican Gen- 
erals.— Santa Anna. — Account of Captain Gonsalez. — The San Pa- 
tricio Company. — Various Views regarding the War. — Dismay and 
Rejoicing. — Results of the Capture of Mexico 11 

CHAPTER V. 

I am detained after the other Prisoners have been exchanged. — Ap- 
plication to the commanding Officer. — Unsatisfactory Answer. — 
Plan, and Attempt an Escape. — Apprehended and brought back. — 
Confined in a Cell, chained and manacled. — Renewed Plans of Es- 
cape. — Frastrated by an Accident. —New Project.- — This proves 
successful. — Mexican Barbarities. — Important Information obtain- 



CONTENTS. IX 

ed. — Intestine Troubles in Mexico during the War. — Prepare for 
Traveling. — Start for the Pacific. — Ari'ive, by night Journeys, at 
Queretaro. — Information obtained regarding my future Route. — 
Haciendas. — Wander from the right Road. — Mode of Traveling. — 
Celaj^a. — Mexican Women. — Difficulties of the Journey. — Fertility 
of the Soil. — Productions. — Tobacco. — Sugar Manufacture. — 
Horse-shoeing. — Catering for Food. — Change my Mode of Travel- 
ing. — Consequent Danger. — Expedient to procure Food. — Placed 
in a Dilemma. — How relieved. — Bad Effects of Exposure and Fa- 
tigue. — Removed by the good Offices of a Stranger. — Appearance 
and indigenous Productions of the Country. — Indications of Vol- 
canic Action. — Chapparal. — Cactuses. — Century Plant. — Homed 
Frog Page 103 

CHAPTER VI. 

Resume my Journey. — Sorrow on bidding Adieu to my Host. — His 
Kindness at parting. — Road begins to Descend. — Changed Appear- 
ance of the Country. — Crops. — Salamanca. — Universal Custom. — 
Meet a Countryman, who renders me important Services. — Useless 
Bloodshed. — Advantages of a Passport. — Stage Lines. — Go Astray. 
— Strange Bed. — Recover the right Way. — Danger of Discovery. — 
Mode of raising Funds, — Guauahuato. — Poorer Classes of People. 
— Silver Mines. — Gambling and Drinking habits. — A Fellow-trav- 
eler. — Kindness of the People. — Appearance of the Country. — Scar- 
city of Water. — Robbed. — My fellow-traveler's Imprudence brings 
us into Danger. — Means of Living, Dwellings, and appearance of the 
People. — Parting Advice and Salutations. — Rich and Poor. — Peons. 
— Religious Exercises. — Barrens. — Fertile Spots. — Murders. — Sud- 
den Thunder-storm. — Troubles at a Village. — The Alcalde. — Good 
Offices of our Host. — Green Lizards. — Wild Horses. — Mode ol 
catching and breaking them. — Mexican Horse-gear 130 

CHAPTER VIL 

Patatlan. — Daring Scheme. — Career of Ciriacco Gomez. — Escape 
from his Proposal. — Departure from Patatlan at Midnight.- — Arrive 
at Leon. — Incidents there. — Suspicions of the Commandante. — 
How removed. — Raising the Wind. — Rescued from Danger by a 
Priest. — Description of Leon. — Donkeys. — Mules. — Gloomy Pros- 
pects. — Nocturnal Alarm. — Road to Lagos. — The Mail. — Elysian 
Scene^— Arrive at Lagos. — A dangerous Acquaintance. — Unexpect- 
ed Generosity. — Fruits. — Beating the Rounds 159 

A2 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Departure from Lagos. — A mournful Farewell. — San Carlos. — Strata- 
gem to procure a free Ride. — The Alcalde. — Departure from San 
Carlos. — Trouble with my Companion. — Airive at Sayula. — Relig- 
ious Celebration. — Leave Sayula, and mistake the Road. — Conse- 
quent Sufferings and Danger. — A singular Concert. — Regain the 
Road. — Meet old Fellow-travelers. — Stories about Robbers. — We 
disregard them, and are Robbed. — Generosity of a Bishop. — Join 
some Mexican Travelers for Protection. — Peculiar use of a Revolver. 
— Dexterity of the Mexicans in using the Lasso. — Value of Mexican 
Promises. — Delightful Scenery. — Arrive at Guadalajara.. Page 186 

CHAPTER IX. 

Unexpected Hospitality. — New Acquaintance. — Description of Gua- 
dalajara. — The Cathedral. — Remarkable Picture. — Resolve to part 
from my Fellow-traveler. — Applications for Employment. — Bad 
News. — Fall in with an American. — Political Parties. — Paredes. — 
His Insurrection. — A Comical Battle, followed by a Bloodless Vic- 
tory. — Run of good Fortune. — My Safety is endangered by an 
Order of the Authorities. — I am betrayed by my new Acquaint- 
ance. — But, warned of my Danger, I defeat the Plot. — Leave 
Guadalajara secretly with my old Fellow-traveler. — Wretched Ap- 
pearance of the Country. — Singular use of a Thirty-two Pounder. 
— La Venta. — Etztlan. — Scene at the Meson. — I procure Employ- 
ment. — Part with my Fellow-traveler. — Mexican Sabbath. — Start 
with my Employer for his Residence. — An Accident. — The Secre- 
tary. — Arrive at Iztlan, my Employer's Residence 207 

CHAPTER X. 

I become acquainted with the higher Classes. — Their Manners and 
Character. — Appearance of the Ladies. — Peculiar Mode of Saluta- 
tion. — The Clergy. — Different Classes. — Their Revenues. — Charac- 
ter of the Priests. — Service for the Dying. — Crosses and Medals. — 
Description of the Country round Iztlan. — Mines. — Mode of ex- 
tracting Silver. — Visit to a Silver Mine. — Account of a peculiar 
Tribe of Indians. — Causes of Indian Degradation. — Mode of Pro- 
tection against the Cold. — Mexican Dogs, — A great Festival. — The- 
atrical Performances. — Placed in a Dilemma regarding Matrimony. 
— A singular Trait. — My Expectations are frustrated. — Character of 
Don Pedro Martinez. — Interior Arrangements of Mexican Houses. 



CONTENTS. XI 

— Music. — Rumor of President Polk's Death. — How received. — 
Sad Results of the War. — Cause of the frequent Revolutions in Mex- 
ico.— Cock-fighting Page 233 

CHAPTER XL 

Departure from Iztlan. — Arrive at Amatlan. — Visit to a Gold Mine. 
— Situation of Amatlan. — Hot Spring. — Mexican Names. — Prac- 
tice of Medicine. — Office of Alcalde. — Judicial Cases. — Mode of 
Swearing. — Join an Expedition against a Band of Robbers. — The 
Result. — Career of a Murderer. — Schools. — Peonage. — Gambling. 
— Fandangoes. — The Carnival. — Lent. — Processions. — A serio- 
comical Scene. — Visit another Gold Mine. — A Rose in the Desert. 
— Remove to Garabato. — Remarkable Phenomenon there. — Dis- 
graceful Scenes.— Stung by a Scorpion 255 

CHAPTER Xn. 

Being deceived a second time, I start for Tepic with Secretary Muir- 
guir. — Ojala. — ^Common mode of Spinning. — Ahuacatlan. — Account 
of a Volcano. — Frequency of Robberies. — I am taken Sick. — Ar- 
rive at Tepic. — Long confined with a Fever. — Good Offices of Mr. 
Whiting and other Countrymen. — Mineral Resources of Mexico. — 
Abundance of Gold. — Agricultural Resources. — Farming Imple- 
ments. — Advantages of Mexico for Manufacturing. — Climate. — 
Summary of the Condition of Mexico. — Journey to San Bias. — 
Musquitoes. — Condition of the Town. — Go on board the United 
States ship Lexington. — Sail for the United States in the Cyane. 
— Usages on board a Man-of-war.— Religious Exercises and Instruc- 
tion. — Hard Subjects. — Valparaiso. — A singular Race. — Arrive in 
the United States 276 



TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 
IN MEIICO. 



CHAPTER I. 



Proceed to Brazos Santiago with the Kentucky Volunteer Regiment. 
— Occurrences there. — Remove to Burrita. — Appearance of the 
Country. — Soil. — Heaxj Rains. — Occupations. — Alarms . — Death 
of an Officer. — Remove to Camargo. — Soil, and state of Agriculture. 
— Advantages of Camargo. — Troops concentrate there. — Depart 
for Monterey. — Wooden Crosses. — Changed Appearance of the 
Country. — Silver Mine. — Canales. — Marine. — First Firing. — Inci- 
dents at the Battle of Monterey. 

At the commencement of the Mexican war I was 
at Louisville, Kentucky, when orders were received 
to raise in that state a regiment of volunteers, to pro- 
ceed at once to the scene of action. Having many 
friends who had volunteered, I was by them easily 
persuaded to do the same ; and in the short space of 
one week we were on the way to New Orleans, 
whence we shipped for Brazos Santiago in two ves- 
sels, which were towed by a steamer into the Gulf. 
"When we were at a sufficient distance from the land 
to catch a breeze, the steamer left us, and we arrived 
at the Brazos in four days. The other vessel had 
arrived the day before, and we hastened to join our 
comrades. 



14 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

The only "buildings were one belonging to the quar- 
ter-master's or commissary department, and an oc- 
casional shanty for a sutler, or some other adven- 
turer who acted on his own account. The island is 
low and very level, and so destitute of soil that no 
grass or weeds grow on it. On the side next the G-ulf 
are several very high sand-hills, which have been 
blown up by the heavy winds from the sea. There 
were no wells, but for water we dug little holes in 
the sand, from three to six feet deep. Into these 
would run sufficient water to enable us to take it up 
with a cup. It was brackish, but we used it, for 
want of any other. The sea furnished us with oys- 
ters and fish, and it required only a slight exertion 
to obtain a plentiful supply. 

"We drilled two hours every day, and soon became 
tolerable proficients in the use of arms. Reports were 
in circulation that the Mexicans intended to make a 
descent on the island ; and picket-guards were sta- 
tioned at a distance from the camp. One night the 
officers, being desirous of testing the capabilities of 
the men, determined to create an alarm. Accord- 
ingly, when the night was far advanced, and all were 
buried in profound sleep, the long roll was heard to 
beat. Instantly all was life and confusion : loud cries 
of " Turn out ! turn out .'" were heard in every direc- 
tion. We formed at once into a line on the parade 
ground ; and by the light of the moon we could dis- 
tinctly see the St. Louis regiment (which was there 
also) formed in battle array. Our officers rode up 
and down the line, exhorting us to keep cool, and not 
be excited, as the Mexicans did not come. There 



IN MEXICO. 15 

was no excuse for keeping us waiting any longer, so 
we were dismissed, the officers telling us to be ready 
to turn out at a moment's warning. We turned into 
our tents to take another sleep, and no sooner had all 
sunk into forgetfulness than another alarm was given. 
We were instantly on our feet, and fell into line as 
before. But we were kept only a few minutes, when 
they dismissed us, and permitted us to sleep quietly 
until morning. It was said that these alarms were 
the result of bets between the officers of the two reg- 
iments, regarding the alacrity with which their re- 
spective commands would form into line ; but I do 
not certainly know that such was the case. How- 
ever, as our life was so monotonous here, it was well 
to spice it with a little variety. 

The weather was very hot, and sickness prevailed 
to a considerable extent in the camp ; but arrange- 
ments could not be made for removing till we re- 
ceived orders from G-eneral Taylor. During the 
interval, some jovial youths entertained their com- 
rades by playing practical jokes on some sutler or 
rum-seller, such as the following. One day, some 
men belonging to the St. Louis regiment, assisted by 
some from ours, went to the rear of a rum shanty, and 
made an opening in the board partition till they got 
access to a brandy barrel, whence they retailed it at 
sixpence a glass. After some time, one of the young 
men went in and asked the sutler how he sold brandy. 
On being told "a shilling a glass," he replied that 
others sold it for sixpence. " Where ?" said the sut- 
ler. The young man told him to follow, and he would 
show him. He followed to the rear of his own build- 



16 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ing, and saw them selling from his own hrandy bar- 
rel. Whereupon he began to swear, curse, and rave ; 
but this only made them sell more brandy ; and 
those who had no money got it gratis. At last, when 
the sutler found that neither curses nor threats pro- 
duced any effect, he bought them off by treating all 
hands. 

While lying here, the rainy season commenced. 
The days were usually clear, and after dark it com- 
menced raining, accompanied with vivid flashes of 
lightning and terrific peals of thunder, which fre- 
quently ended by giving us a thorough drenching. 
But the warm sunny days amply repaid us for these 
little inconveniences. 

We remained here three weeks, when orders were 
received to remove up the E.io Grrande to a place call- 
ed Burrita, distant fourteen miles. As soon as all 
were ready, the right wing moved on as far as the 
mouth of the river, and the day following, the left 
wing having reached them, we put our baggage on a 
steam-boat to convey it up the river. After resting 
a while we crossed over to the other side, and for the 
first time put our feet on Mexican ground. 

As soon as all were over we commenced our line 
of march. The country, as far as the eye could reach, 
was level ; and that portion of it next the river was 
so low as to be entirely buried under water, and there 
being no way to avoid it, we were forced to march 
through it. This continued for near one fourth of 
the way, after which we had a good road. There 
were no houses on the way, but an occasional culti- 
vated field. The land was rich and easy of cultiva- 



IN MEXICO. 17 

tion, and would, by proper tillage, yield the farmer a 
rich return for his labor ; but it seems as though all 
its occupants wished for in this world was enough 
to eat from day to day, never thinking of providing 
for the future. About sunset we arrived at the place 
destined for our encampment. This was a high bank 
from twenty to thirty rods wide, and some miles in 
length. The ground having been assigned off to the 
companies, we went down to the boat, brought up 
our tents and other baggage, while some of our com- 
rades were collecting wood with which to cook our 
supper ; after which, being excessively fatigued with 
our hard march, we lay down to sleep. The weather 
by this time had become very cloudy, and a heavy 
rain was expected. During the night it came down 
in a manner that was never seen before by any of us. 
Our tents were soon wet through, and in a short time 
it became as bad inside as outside ; still, we endured 
all the inconveniences arising from this state of the 
weather with great resignation. 

In the morning it became clear for a few moments, 
but it soon commenced raining with increased vio- 
lence. Many had succeeded in building a fire to 
cook their breakfast, but the rain came on so soon 
that it drove them all into their quarters and put out 
their fire ; others, in the mean time, had been out 
and gathered weeds and bushes to place on the bot- 
tom of their tents to keep their blankets out of the 
mud — an excellent precaution, as it afterward proved 
to be of great service. It continued to rain six days 
without intermission, during which time we scarcely 
saw the sun, and, as no cooking could be done out of 



18 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

doors, we made a fire in the tent and boiled our cof- 
fee, fried our meat, &o. In the mean while our "bread 
had given out ; and so hard was it raining, that none 
could be issued. At length it slackened sufficient 
for them to serve out rations. For a few days our 
situation was truly unpleasant — our clothes were all 
wet, and there were no dry ones in our knapsacks ; 
our blankets and fire-arms also were wet, and the lat- 
ter rusty. The camp ground was something like a 
bed of mortar. As soon as the sun came out warm, 
however, every thing was made right ; clothes were 
dried, fire-arms were put in order, our quarters were 
cleaned out, and soon every thing assumed quite a 
respectable appearance. We were encamped a little 
above the village of Burrita, where there was a regi- 
ment of Louisiana volunteers, and above us, further 
up the river, was another regiment from the same 
state. The village above alluded to was a small 
town, or rather rancho ; the houses were miserably- 
built hovels, not capable of protecting the inmates 
from the pelting rain. On the land that was Culti- 
vated there were very fine crops of cotton, which the 
soil will produce in great abundance, likewise corn, 
wheat, and various tropical fruits. 

On one side of the camp was a chaparral which 
afforded us wood for a long time ; and our water was 
taken from the river, very muddy, but when settled 
it was good and sweet. Steam-boats were constantly 
plying on the river between Camargo and its mouth, 
carrying provisions to that point, as G-eneral Taylor 
was concentrating all his force there preparatory to 
moving on Monterey. Occasionally we received pa- 



IN MEXICO. 19 

pers from Louisville, by which means we had some 
little knowledge of their doings at home ; and as 
reading matter was very scarce in the regiment, ev- 
ery paper was eagerly sought after by all the boys. 
A portion of every day was spent in drilling, in 
which exercise we in time became tolerably profi- 
cient. 

We lay here some time, nothing occurring to dis- 
turb the even tenor of our life but an occasional re- 
port that peace was made or about to be made. This 
all rejoiced at, as we had become heartily tired of 
this inactive state, and a change of any kind was 
greatly desired ; but a homeward-bound course would 
have been more acceptable to us than all others. At 
length it became evident to our officers that another 
camping-ground was necessary, as we had cut all the 
wood that was near us, and for our daily supply were 
forced to carry it a great distance. However, a cir- 
cumstance occurred before we left that deserves no- 
tice. On the opposite side of the marsh that was in 
the rear of our camp was another high range of hills ; 
across this marsh it was not more than two miles to 
this ridge. One day a lieutenant of one of the com- 
panies was looking over on these hills through a glass, 
and discovered what was supposed to be a large body 
of horsemen drilling. The alarm was instantly giv- 
en, and that night a detail of thirty men was made 
from the rifle company to go thither and make what 
discoveries it could. The whole of that night was 
spent in preparing cartridges for the expedition, and 
early the next morning they started. They were 
forced to take a circuitous route, to avoid as much as 



20 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

possible the deep v^aters of the marsh. They took a 
supply of provisions, expecting to be gone two days. 
During this time great excitement prevailed in the 
camp, in anticipation of an attack from this supposed 
enemy. Toward evening of the second day they 
returned, and reported that they saw nothing but a 
drove of wild horses that were prancing about at leis- 
ure, and thus passed away this danger ; but there 
was another circumstance that occurred at or near 
this time that filled the regiment with gloom. Cap- 
tain B., of the ninth company, went to Matamoras on 
business connected with the regiment ; he was ex- 
pected to be gone only a few days ; a week passed, 
and he did not return. Then fears for his safety 
were entertained; and, as he proceeded there by land, 
it was not known whether he fell at the hands of the 
rancheros, or received his death from some of the gam- 
blers that infested that city. A search was made for 
the body afterward, but it never was found. 

At length we began to make preparations to move 
up to Camargo ; a few companies, with the sick, went 
up on a boat, the balance by land. By water the dis- 
tance was near four hundred miles; by land, about 
one hundred. We had been at that place eight weeks, 
and right glad were we to leave. We put our camp- 
baggage on board, at least all that was going by the 
boat, went on board, and soon we were wending our 
way nearer the scene of bloodshed. 

The scenery on the banks of the river is beauti- 
fully diversified. There are low bottoms, with a soil 
unequaled in the world for fertility. The timber was 
not very large, but beautiful in its diminutiveness. 



IN MEXICO. 21 

The climate is so even and regular that two crops 
can be raised in a year, one succeeding the other ; 
but, notwithstanding all these advantages, no more 
is produced than is indispensably necessary to sup- 
port life. The reason of this state of things will here- 
after be stated. At length we arrived at Matamoras, 
where we lay all night. From our position we could 
see but little of the city, but we frequently saw some 
marks of violence that was done by the balls during 
the bombardment of Fort Brown. 

We lay a short distance above the city, and next 
morning we miade a start up the river. We could 
not proceed fast because of the rapidity of the cur- 
rent. There was frequently a rancho seen, with a 
small cultivated piece of ground around it. At these 
ranchoes we stopped for wood, for which government 
paid from two and a half to three dollars per cord ; 
by this means many of the Mexicans who were poor 
now have their pockets lined with money. In four 
days we reached the mouth of the San Juan, a large 
stream emptying into the Rio G-rande. About six 
miles from its mouth, on a high bank, is Camargo, 
once a large town and a place of good business, but 
now in ruins, having been swept away by the over- 
flowing of the river. At present only a few houses 
remain, and all of them are in a dilapidated condi- 
tion. The place is well situated for trade, as all 
the merchandise that is bound for Monterey, Saltillo, 
and other towns of similar importance, would come 
through here. The river is very wide, and sufficient- 
ly deep to admit the largest class of steam-boats, even 
during low water. With these advantages Camargo 



22 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

would, in the hands of an industrious and enterpris- 
ing people, soon become a great commercial city. The 
surrounding country is healthy, and the soil fertile. 
From the Grulf upward the land gradually rises, and 
is mostly free from hills. At the time of our arrival 
there were several regiments of regulars here, which 
had been here some time, and likewise some of the 
famous Texan Rangers. All the boats that were on 
the river were busily engaged in bringing up soldiers 
and provisions. This was in August. Every few 
days troops were arriving, and our available force soon 
amounted to about seven thousand men. We here 
were again cheered with the hopes of peace being soon 
made ; but, as before, it proved illusory. 

At length we were mustered, and received our cloth- 
ing-money, being the first we had hitherto received. 
All those regiments which had been ordered on to 
Monterey had been moved over the river. At length, 
every thing being ready, the army moved on amid 
the cheers of those who were left behind. The coun- 
try still continued rising, but was regular and grad- 
ual in its ascent. There was more and heavier tim- 
ber than on the portions we had left. One thing sur- 
prised us much : there were wooden crosses placed by 
the road side at frequent intervals ; for these we could 
not account. At first we supposed that they were 
land-marks denoting distances ; but then we saw as 
many as four or five in one place, and this destroyed 
that supposition. Afterward, as I became more ac- 
quainted with the manners and customs of the inhab- 
itants, this was explained ; and in my travels through 
this country, I saw that it was a thing of very com- 



IN MEXICO. 23 

mon occurrence. It is a custom of this people to place 
a wooden cross over a body that has been found dead, 
wherever it may be, whether in the field or the road ; 
and as murders are of frequent occurrence, these 
monuments of cruelty and crime are to be seen in 
every highway and in every city ; and frequently as 
many as four, five, or six, and sometimes more, were 
to be found within the space of one rod. 

It was some forty leagues to Monterey, the place 
of our destination. In two days we passed Mier, a 
small place, but beautiful and regularly built, and 
is capable of being made very strong with little ex- 
ertion. We encamped here one night, and then pro- 
ceeded to Seralvo, which was just half way to Mon- 
terey. Before reaching this place, the high blue 
mountains of the Sierra Madre appeared in sight. 
Seralvo is situated near the foot of these mountains. 
Through the town flows a fine, clear, and beautiful 
stream, which empties its waters into the Eio G^rande. 
It is said that near here, in one of these towering hills, 
is a silver mine of great value, that was once worked 
by a company from the United States ; but they were 
forced to desist on account of a revolution in the coun- 
try. For a long time it lay idle ; at last another com- 
pany attempted to reopen and work it. Their attempt 
proved fruitless ; and, after spending several thousand 
dollars, they abandoned it to prosecute their enter- 
prise elsewhere. It is on this road that Canales, the 
noted robber, commits his depredations. He had been 
outlawed by the Mexican government, and afterward 
received into its pay several times. He is a man of 
doubtful courage, but possesses good talents. It is 



24 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

said that he was educated for the profession of the 
law ; but, unfortunately, taking part on the wrong 
side in a revolution, he became outlawed ; and since 
then he has been in command of an army as a bandit. 
The latter was his character at the time of which I am 
speaking ; and on this march it is said that he came 
into the American camp, and went to the general's 
quarters, made himself known, and offered his serv- 
ices and those of his men in the approaching conflict. 
But the commander rejected his offer, saying that, 
sooner than receive his services, he would treat him 
as a highwayman. This story was in circulation in 
the camp, but I can not vouch for its truth. I was 
afterward told, however, while a prisoner, that at this 
time Canales was in the American camp several times, 
and was anxious to join the Americans, as were most 
of his men, but never did. 

We stayed at this place one night. From hence 
most of our way lay through a rough and rocky road ; 
the mountains on each side rising with towering tops, 
one vying with the other in its dizzy height. This 
was characteristic of the first day's march ; the sec- 
ond was more even, but still rough, uneven, and un- 
inhabited. The third day the road became level, and 
the soil very fertile. This day we passed through 
Marine, the scene of a bloody massacre, as I shall 
hereafter relate. The fourth day we encamped with- 
in ten miles of Monterey. Next morning vfe made 
an early start : we had no sooner begun to move than 
the thundering roar of the cannon greeted our ears. 
The Texan Rangers were in the advance, and at this 
time in sight of the enemy, who commenced firing 



IN MEXICO. 25 

on them at once. All was impatience and anxiety 
through the army to reach the scene of action as 
soon as possible, to participate in its dangers and its 
glories, the roaring of the cannon sounding more like 
martial music than the knell of death. "We encamped 
that night about five miles from Monterey, by the 
side of some fine springs, and a most beautiful piece 
of wood, the only timber of the kind that can be seen 
in the valley. The next morning an attack was reg- 
ularly commenced, the general dispositions of the bat- 
tle were soon made, and each commander took his 
respective command, Brigadier-general Hemar, of 
Ohio, taking command of the brigade composed of 
the first regiments of the Kentucky and Ohio volun- 
teers. The Kentucky regiment was detailed to guard 
a mortar, commanded by Captain Ramsay, and a bet- 
ter or more thorough-bred soldier could not be found. 
The town appeared to be very strongly fortified. 
In front was a large fort, commonly called "TAe 
Black Fort^^'' which name was given to it by its 
hoisting the black flag during the battle. At the 
west end of the town, on a very high hill, is the 
bishop's castle, another strongly-fortified point. Be- 
yond that, on another hill, was placed a battery of 
two guns. At the east end of the town were sev- 
eral smaller fortifications, all of which were heavily 
mounted and well manned. Besides these, every 
street leading into the city was defended by a breast- 
work and two guns. Of this fact no one was aware 
until the town had been penetrated. Gren ral Worth 
was ordered to make an attempt on the bisht p's castle. 
He took three thousand men, and, taking a circuitous 

B 



-Vf/I 



f 



26 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

route, he was concealed by the chapparal and the 
corn-fields, and in a few hours appeared in the rear, 
at the foot of this hill. In the mean time, the attack 
on the lower end of the town had been commenced. 
This was done more to draw their attention from 
General Worth than with a view of bringing on a 
regular engagement ; but so impetuous was the onset 
of these volunteers, that it was found impossible to 
stop or recall them. They were the Mississippians 
and Tennesseeans. The Ohio regiment was likewise 
with them. All these were but a short time out, and 
had had very little time to become acquainted with 
military tactics, and none of them had before seen an 
engagement. The battle raged with great fury ; the 
roaring of the cannon was terrific. Captain Ramsay 
would occasionally throw a shell into them, doing 
terrible execution ; and soon we saw their cavalry 
forming, preparing to charge on this mortar, They 
started, and had come some distance, when a shell was 
thrown into their midst, killing great numbers and 
throwing them into confusion, which forced them to 
return. They made one or two more attempts, but 
met with the same reception, after whicL they kept 
themselves quiet. This day's fight resulted in the 
capture of two forts by the Mississippians and Ten- 
nesseeans. During this time it rained in torrents. 

Toward night of the second day, the left wing of 
our regiment, under the command of Major Sheppard, 
was ordered into town to take charge of these forts 
and relieve those that then occupied it. We were all 
cheered at this time by seeing the American colors 
flying on the castle. This occurred about twelve 



IN MEXICO. 27 

o'clock. One loud shout rang in the air through our 
lines, so loud as to drown the thundering roar of the 
cannon. This was the first information that we had 
of the doings of Greneral/Worthr. At last we proceed- 
ed to the fort of which we were to take charge ; our 
road was greatly exposed ; a cross fire was continu- 
ally pouring into us, though fortunately doing little 
injury. But there were plenty of evidences to show 
that the work of death had been terrible at this point, 
as the ground was literally strewn with dead bodies. 
In a short time we reached our destination, where 
we were protected from the shots of the enemy. The 
fort, owing to the rain and the constant tramping, 
had become very muddy ; but we were forced to miake 
this our camping-place for the night, notwithstand- 
ing the shower of shot that was poured into us from 
forts adjacent, and by our neighborly friends the Mex- 
icans. After dark a picket-guard was sent to a tan- 
yard, which was some fifteen rods from the fort. 

During the night, rockets were fired by the enemy 
to discover this guard. They did not succeed until 
toward morning, when they imniecLiately fhed into 
the building, and wounded a man belonging to the 
tenth company. On this they came back to where 
the rest of us were. Soon daylight appeared, when 
the action commenced, which resulted in the capitu- 
lation of the town, arfter which the American flag 
proudly waved over the walls of Monterey. I was 
afterward told that Ampudia was tried by a court- 
martial ; and why he was not cashiered is a wonder, 
for a greater coward never commanded an army. I 
was told this while at San Luis Potosi. 



28 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER II. 

Occurrences after the Capitulation of Monterey. — American Volun- 
teers killed. — Mexican shot. — Course of General Taylor. — Mexican 
Outrages renewed. — Mode in which they were stopped. — Army 
advance to Saltillo. — A small Guard left at Monterey, of which I am 
One. — We start for Saltillo. — Adventures on the Way. — Haciendas. 
— Remarkable Spot. — False Alarm. — Saltillo. — The Cathedral. — 
Mier Prisoner. — Brigade return to Monterey. — Occupy the Citadel. 
— Occurrences at Monterey. — Start for Camargo, in a Guard, accom- 
panying a Train of Mules. — Scenes and OccuiTences by the Way. — 
Adventures of Captain Heniy. — Meet a Train of Wagons at Se- 
ralvo, and return with them toward Monterey. — Fellow-travelers. 
— Attacked at Ramos by a strong Force under General Urrea. — The 
Escort taken Prisoners. — Many of the Teamsters killed. — Fate of 



After the capitulation of Monterey, order and peace 
were quickly restored. The Mexicans were soon ready 
to leave, and they inarched out in regular order ; and 
very frequently was to be seen in their ranks one who 
had formerly been a soldier in the American army. 
How changed was his condition ! Then he was well 
fed, well clothed ; and if he was sick, good care was 
taken of him ; but now, how different ! He was rag- 
ged and dirty, not half paid, and still worse fed, with 
base and degraded associates. In a short time the city 
was cleared of the Mexican troops, and the army pro- 
ceeded to take their regular camping ground. Gren- 
eral Worth and his division remained in the city. 
G-eneral Taylor, with the rest of the army, went to 
the woods and the springs before alluded to. Here 



I 



IN MEXICO. 29 

was abundance of wood and water. The inliabitants 
of the surrounding country soon became quite familiar 
with us, and a regular market was established, where 
bread, meat, and many fruits of tropical climates 
could be purchased at a cheap rate. For a long while 
all went on smoothly, nothing occurring to alarm us. 
At length, as though tired of this state of things, the 
Mexicans began to kill some of the volunteers, whom 
they found away from the camp alone. Several had 
thus been made away with, till at last a Mexican 
was shot. At this Greneral Taylor became very angry, 
and made inquiry who it was that shot him. He was 
told that it was done by the Kentucky regiment ; he 
became at once still more excited, and hastily ordered 
us to prepare to march to the rear of the army. A 
letter of remonstrance was sent to him, begging that 
a court of inquiry be ordered, and find out who was 
guilty, that he might be punished, and not punish an 
entire regiment for the crime of one individual. It 
was done ; the man was found, and he received a dis- 
honorable discharge. But on the part of the Mexi- 
cans this murdering system continued. At last one 
belonging to our regiment was brought in completely 
cut to pieces. This produced some murmuring and 
great dissatisfaction because effectual measures were 
not taken to prevent a repetition of them. Few words 
were spoken, but a deep feeling of vengeance pervad- 
ed all the companies. It only wanted a little more 
aggravation on their part to produce vengeance on 
ours ; and this was not long wanting ; for in a few 
days afterward, one belonging to the ninth company 
was found with his throat cut from ear to ear, and 



so TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

otherv^ise horribly mutilated. This v^as enough. But 
now a difficulty presented itself. Immediately after 
the trial above alluded to, an order had been issued 
forbidding any man to pass out of his lines with his 
gun ; therefore it now became their study in what 
manner to get their arms out with them. But a 
scheme was soon devised and executed in this man- 
ner. The soldiers were allowed to go to the stream, 
which was about ten rods from the line, to wash out 
their guns ; they were not slow in taking advantage 
of this liberty. Those who were going would take 
their guns apart ; one would put his lock in his pocket, 
and walk out with the barrel to wash it ; another 
would put on a blanket, hide the stock under it, and 
follow after. In this manner some twenty guns were 
taken away ; and as we were allowed to go where and 
when we pleased, the absent persons were not missed 
or suspected. A number of Mexicans were killed, 
and the next day still more, making in ail about 
twenty. No inquiry whatever was made as to who 
the perpetrators were, but no more volunteers were 
killed. The Mexicans doubtless considered this a 
sufficient warning. 

We were lying here in idleness and inactivity, 
amusing ourselves the best way we could, some by 
card-playing, others by trying feats of strength ; all 
Were anxious to return home, being heartily tked of 
camp life. But before this time, G-eneral Worth, with 
his command, had gone to Saltillo, and was fortifying 
it. We also heard of the return of G-eneral Santa 
Anna to Mexico. This was an important occurrence, 
as he would either make peace or prosecute the war 



IN MEXICO. 31 

with greater vigor. In either case, it would be far bet- 
ter than the present state of suspense. But we did 
not long remain in doubt, for soon information was re- 
ceived that he was moving on Monterey with a large 
body of men. In the month of December, an express 
came into camp about two o'clock in the morning, 
and went to the quarters of the commanding officer. 
He delivered his message, and proceeded down to 
Camargo, without loss of time, to order up fresh troops 
from below. Major Sheppard, who was then in com- 
mand, sent for the drummer to beat the long roll, but 
the drummer could not be found. He then came out 
on the parade ground, and with a loud voice cried, 
*' Turn out I turn out I'''' several times. The alarm 
quickly spread, and soon from every quarter of the 
brigade was heard the cry, ^'-Turn out I turn out V 
"VVe formed on the parade ground, and a motley-look- 
ing set we were. Rising from our warm beds and 
going into the cold au', all began to shiver as though 
suffering from an attack of the fever and ague ; but 
into line we went, some appearing without hats, others 
without coats, and nearly all without shoes ; so great 
was the confusion that these could not be found. We 
were ordered to cook our breakfast as soon as pos- 
sible. We were to leav^e Monterey by daybreak for 
Saltillo, as the Mexicans were advancing on that point 
under the command of the one-legged chieftain, and 
report said with some thirty thousand men. 

Our camp-fires were soon briskly burning, our cof- 
fee was boiling, and meat was frying ; soon all was 
ready, and we fell to eating. A small guard was left 
to take care of the sick and camp equipages that 



82 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

were left "beliind, until teams were sent from the town 
to take them in. Those teams that were going to 
Saltillo with us soon came out and quickly loaded, 
and before the dawn of day began to move off. I was 
one of those who remained ; there were in all some 
sixty persons. We expected the train would come 
that day ; but the day passed away, and still it had not 
come, and we remained there alone that night. The 
next morning about ten o'clock it came ; we loaded 
the teams with the provisions, tents, and camp-kettles, 
and the sick, and left this now deserted spot. There 
were fourteen of us together. Where the rest of the 
guard were I can not tell, and they were not to be 
found. By this time it was nearly night, and we 
could not go until the day following. Those articles 
vfhich we did not want we sold, such as candles, soap, 
coffee, sugar, &c., carrying nothing but bread and 
meat ; these we could easily carry in our haversacks. 
We started about twelve o'clock the next day ; but, 
before leaving, some of our comrades left us, and were 
not to be found. As we had in our possession their 
rations, we searched a long time for them, but as it 
proved unsuccessful, we had to go without them. We 
were only five in number, a rather small number to 
travel safely through an enemy's country sixty miles. 
We had a horse between us that carried our baggage 
and provisions. The first day we went twelve miles, 
slept at a rancho, where, with our own provisions 
and those we purchased of the ranoheros, we made a 
hearty supper. We kept good watch for fear of some 
treachery on the part of our host ; but before we went 
to sleep we made a great display of our rifles and 



IN MEXICO. 33 

muskets, examined the loading, &c., simply to inform 
the rancheros that we were ready to meet them should 
they make any hostile attempt. Nothing, however, 
was said or done ; whether they were restrained 
through fear or feelings of respect, I can not say, but, 
at all events, morning found us safe. When they had 
arisen we bespoke a breakfast for all, which we ob- 
tained by nine o'clock, being thus late on account of 
some chickens and other fresh meat that we had pur- 
chased. We determined beforehand that we would 
live well while on this march, and purchase as long 
as money lasted, and then forage on the natives. 

At length we made a start : the distance was eight- 
een miles to the nearest water and house. The road 
lay between two high ranges of mountains ; the val- 
ley was about two miles wide ; the soil was rich, but 
little cultivated, and large herds of cattle were seen 
grazing on it. We pursued our way over hills and 
through valleys, and had made about one half of our 
day's journey, when, on a small hill before us, a heavy 
cloud of dust was seen to rise. In a few moments a 
body of horsemen came in view : being so far from us, 
their uniform was undistinguishable, and we calmly 
made up our mind that, should they prove to be Mex- 
icans, our chance was small ; but on their coming 
nearer, we discovered them to be Colonel May's dra- 
goons. The colonel himself was along, who informed 
us that there was no fighting to be done yet at Sal- 
tillo, and furthermore said that he doubted whether 
Santa Anna was near that place. He also told us 
that it was necessary for us to keep a sharp look-out, 
as the inhabitants were very hostile toward our sol- 
B2 



34 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

diers. That night v^e arrived at the hacienda, about 
midway between the two cities. Here was plenty 
of water, cool and pure, running from the mountains, 
and as we had nothing to drink during the day, we 
went to the beautiful stream and slaked our thirst. 
We then went and inquired for the master of the 
house. A young man, genteelly dressed, said he was 
the man. We then inquired if we could sleep in his 
house that night. He readily answered yes, and led 
us to a room where we stacked our arms. There 
were two of them, brothers, with fine features, and 
of a noble and commanding appearance. We soon 
found that they had music in the house, and they 
were kind enough to play some for us on a guitar and 
violin. I also found an American magazine, from 
New York. The music that was found in it made 
one of their favorite pieces. 

In the morning, after eating breakfast, we bid 
adieu to our kind host, and proceeded on our journey. 
Our road took a turn round a very high mountain, 
through a long, narrow pass, and ascended to a great 
height. The pass was just about wide enough for 
four horses abreast. At length we arrived at the top 
of the hill, where we saw a number of fortifications 
that had been commenced after the surrender of Mon- 
terey, in violation of the treaty. It was admirably 
selected, and only required a few works and a few 
good soldiers to stop a large army. There being only 
this one way of passing, and that a narrow road, all 
their batteries could be brought to bear. But infor- 
mation of these works coming to Greneral Taylor, 
General Worth was sent to Saltillo ; and the Mexi- 



IN MEXICO. 35 

cans fled on the approach of this commander, leaving 
the road clear and unobstructed. Being alone, and 
traveling at leisure, we took a little time to view this 
spot, which is noted for what occurred here during 
the revolution against the Spaniards. The Spanish 
army was retreating through this place, when they 
were met by a large body of the Mexicans, and forced 
to fall back. In theu' rear was another body pursuing 
them, and to break through either was found to be 
utterly impossible. Thus hemmed in by the impass- 
able mountains on two sides, and infuriated and vin- 
dictive foes on the other, and cut off from all supplies 
both of provisions and water, their situation soon be- 
came intolerable. Some perished by the sword, and 
the rest by starvation, and, as report says, none es- 
caped to tell the tale. 

We saw some four or five places where batteries 
had been recently thrown up, but evidently not com- 
pleted. By this time the sun had become excessively 
hot, and our water giving out, admonished us to push 
forward, as it was three miles more before any could 
be had. The road was now descending ; and in about 
an hour we reached a small stream, where we quench- 
ed om* thh'st and filled our canteens. "We had now 
come nearly four leagues. Some of our company, 
thinking that this was a very good day's m.arch, pro- 
posed stopping for the night with some of the ran- 
cher os ; but this was overruled ; and, after resting 
a while, on we started. About two miles further we 
came to another hacienda, where serious objections 
were made to going further that day by some who 
were anxious to enjoy their liberty a little longer^ as 



36 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

we were then only nine miles from our camp. But, 
on further consideration, we concluded to go to the 
next farm-house, which, they told us, was only one 
league further. To that place we went ; but on the 
road two of our companions determined to go on to 
the camp that day, and accordingly left us, proceed- 
ing at a rapid rate, and we taking our time. On we 
jogged, seeing little worthy of notice, and meeting oc- 
casionally a Mexican traveler. One of these, being a 
talkative personage, detained us a short time in con- 
versation. On parting, he gave us a good drink of 
brandy and some cigars ; and after a courteous adieu, 
each party pursued his way. At length we came in 
sight of the house where we wished to stop, and 
thought it as long a league as well could be. On ar- 
riving there, we asked permission of the proprietor to 
stop that night. He evidently did not like to give it, 
neither did he think it safe to refuse ; and, after some 
deliberation, he consented. It was then about five 
in the afternoon. Our horse was fed, supper or- 
dered, and a room given us where we were to sleep, 
and in which we placed our baggage, arms, &c. We 
saw here a number of rancheros, a black and savage- 
looking set of fellows. They were evidently un- 
friendly to us ; but this mattered not. We asked for 
supper : they said they had nothing for us to eat. Be- 
ing only four in number to live or six, we knew not 
what to do. At last, after some consultation, we told 
the proprietor that some coffee must be made in half 
an hour ; and, as we had plenty of meat and bread, 
we did not wish for those articles. But if that thing 
csalled coffee was not forthcoming, we would levy a 



IN MEXICO 87 

contribution on some of the poultry and pigs that we 
saw running round the door. Furthermore, we told 
them that it was not our intention to rob them, but 
to pay for all we had of them. These remarks had 
the desired effect, and in an incredibly short space 
of time our evening meal was prepared ; and it was 
astonishmg to see how changed this man was : he 
was no longer crabbed and surly, but polite, affable, 
and attentive. In the evening he came into our room, 
accompanied by his wife and some other members of 
his family. They conversed with us some time, and, 
as the evening was somewhat advanced, then retired, 
and we, after having locked the doors, spread our 
blankets and went to sleep. Early in the morning 
we were awakened by our pliant host, who came with 
another dish of coffee. We partook of our breakfast, 
paid the honest Mexican, and took our leave. 

The distance from here to the camp was five miles. 
We went on slowly, stopping to shoot hares, birds, 
and almost every thing else that we could see ; but, 
notwithstanding our slow pace, the camp at last loom- 
ed in view, at which we arrived near twelve o'clock. 
We found our old companions and messmates as they 
had left us, well and hearty. As we were so long 
coming, they had ceased to expect us ; as yet, they 
had had no fight, neither was it certain that they 
would have one. 

The nights were colder than any I had before ex- 
perienced in this country. We lay about five miles 
from the town, but the intervening ground being lev- 
el, it was plainly seen. This was near the last of De- 
cember, 1846. All was quiet and calm until the 



38 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

morning of the first of January — a day long to be 
remembered by our brigade and all the soldiers that 
were in the city. 

"We had just mounted guard when a horseman was 
-seen coming to our camp at the height of his speed ; 
soon he came up and delivered his message to the 
commanding officer, when another was seen coming, 
and yet another. Affairs certainly appeared to be 
pressing. Major Sheppard, who commanded the bri- 
gade, ordered the guard called in and the regiment 
under arms, to appear on the parade ground. It was 
done. He then said that Santa Anna, with thirty 
thousand men, had come to within sight of Greneral 
"Wool's camp, about twenty miles from Saltillo, and 
that teams would immediately be sent from town to 
fetch up the tents and camp equipage, and that in one 
hour's time we must be ready to march to Saltillo. 
We saw a tremendous cloud of dust rising, caused by 
the teams coming on a full run to our camp. The 
sun by this time had become hot ; but still on they 
came, as though their lives were at stake. Soon they 
arrived, the beasts foaming and sweating, the drivers 
whipping and cursing them. In a very short space 
of time every thing was loaded up, when we took 
our arms and marched off at very quick time. In 
about one hour and a half we reached Saltillo ; the 
streets were crowded with people, who seemed fright- 
ened out of their wits, and looked like so many ghosts. 
We passed the quarters of some of the regulars, who 
were under arms and paraded in the streets ; on 
marching past them, one long, tremendous shout rent 
the air ; it was echoed back and sent forth again. 



IN MEXICO. 39 

The greatest excitement prevailed among the citizens 
as well as the soldiery ; drums were beating, colors 
flying, cannons were paraded, and the greatest exer- 
tions were made to prepare for an immediate forward 
march to repel an expected attack on the division 
commanded by Greneral Wool, situated some ten miles 
from the city. We halted in the Plaza and stacked 
our arms, to await further orders. Soon an express 
came in with intelligence that it was a false alarm. 
Toward night another came with a true statement 
of the case. It seems that one of the picket guards 
of Greneral Wool in the morning saw a heavy cloud 
of dust rising from the level open road before them, 
and as there were many reports that the Mexicans 
were coming, thirty thousand strong, and day by day 
expected, it was inferred on these grounds that this 
supposed body was the advance guard of this army. 
A carrier was sent below with information and a call 
for assistance. This is what brought us into town in 
such haste, and this was the cause of the extraordi- 
nary bustle that we saw — ^but now for the solution of 
the problem. This cloud of dust was caused by a 
drove of cattle that the Mexicans were driving to our 
army to sell, and this was all there was of the enemy 
being near us at that time. 

We took up our quarters in the town for near two 
weeks. It is built on the side of a hill, and laid out 
in regular squares ; the streets that run parallel with 
the range of the hill are made on a level with the 
roofs of the houses on the side below ; and if, as is 
sometimes the case, buildings are on both sides of 
the streets, the space intervening between these and 



40 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

tlie houses below is occupied as gardens, in many of 
which are some beautiful fountains. There are two 
plazas ; one is used as a market, which is thronged 
from morning until evening to overflowing. This is 
the principal mercantile point in the city ; in the 
other there are very few stores, as nearly all the 
buildings are used for public purposes and private 
dwellings. They are built in such a manner and 
furnished in such a style that they would do credit 
to a more civilized nation. On one side, occupying 
an entire square, is the Cathedral. It is a very large 
building ; its appearance on the outside is not very 
imposing, but inside it is trimmed in a most gorgeous 
and brilliant manner : it has some four or five splen- 
did chandeliers, richly ornamented. The works of 
gold and silver are numerous and costly, and its paint- 
ings are remarkably beautiful. Meetings were held 
every day ; and often did we go there to admire and 
discover new beauties. On one side of the town is a 
splendid garden, profusely planted with shade-trees ; 
there are numerous walks, all leading to the center, 
where are niany stone seats, made in a circular form. 
The fences are made of the century plant, which is 
of spontaneous growth in this country. The city is 
plentifully supplied with water, and in its immediate 
vicinity are several very extensive and rich silver 
mines. 

I at this place became acquainted with a gentle- 
man who was practicing medicine, and was formerly 
a surgeon in the Texan army. He was taken prison- 
er at Mier, and was brought to this place after hav- 
ing suffered extreme hardships on the road. Here 



IN MEXICO. 41 

he was taken sick, and left in the hospital.. "When 
he recovered, he was put to all kinds of drudgery, 
such as carrying lumber, brick, and water around 
the city, and received worse treatment than would 
have been given to a slave. In this state they kept 
him two years, when a new suit of clothes was given 
him, and he was set to practicing medicine. He had 
been engaged in his profession here ten years when 
I saw him. He stated that he had made several ef- 
forts to sell his property there, and go back to Texas. 
But a sharp eye was kept on him, as they were fully 
determined never to let him go. But he remarked 
that he should now close his business, sell his prop- 
erty, and go with the Americans. 

Our brigade stayed here two weeks ; and as there 
was nothing to detain us longer, we prepared to go 
back to Monterey, and went to our old camping 
ground, to be ready for an early start in the morning. 
We were awakened in the morning by the beating of 
the reveille, and were soon ready for starting. The 
word forward was given as the rays of the sun were 
just peering over the distant horizon, which, being 
thrown on the dew-decked leaves, presented a most 
beautiful scene. We had gone but a short distance 
before we met with several companies of recruits, who 
had just come from the States, and were going to join 
the regular infantry at Saltillo. Soon afterward we 
met the jfirst Indiana regiment, who appeared to be 
much disappointed at the news of there being no fight ; 
but they afterward had it, to their hearts' content, at 
Buena Yista. We that day went ten miles, and made 
an early encampment. The next morning, about two 



42 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

o'clock, we resumed our march, and that day made 
seven leagues. "We were four days on the march, 
and arrived in Monterey toward the evening of the 
fourth. "We proceeded at once to the wood of San 
Domingo, on the ground formerly occupied hy Gren- 
eral Taylor, one mile above our old place, and remain- 
ed there a few weeks, when we moved into town, to 
take charge of the citadel, or, as it was more com- 
monly called. The Black Fort. 

As rumors were in circulation that the Mexicans 
were coming here also, it was thought advisable to 
make some improvements in its works of defense, 
and also to bring into it all the forces in or around 
Monterey. This was near the first of February, 1847. 
The operations that had been commenced were car- 
ried on vigorously, and the fort was made almost im- 
pregnable. At length it became evident that there 
was some truth in the reports we had heard ; citizens 
were leaving in great numbers ; and bodies of armed 
horsemen were reported to have been prowling about 
us at a respectful distance. But the dragoons were 
not with us at this time, having gone away with Gen- 
eral Taylor to Victoria ; and having no cavalry, we 
could not scour the surrounding country. Picket 
guards, however, were sent out every night. About 
this time we heard of a great misfortune that befell 
our arms at Agua Nueva. A portion of the Ken- 
tucky and Arkansas cavalry were sent from Saltillo 
on a scout. One night they were surrounded by an 
immensely superior force, and being unable to with- 
stand them, they surrendered themselves prisoners of 
war. This, instead of producing feelings of dismay, 



IN MEXICO. 43 

only excited those of revenge, as it was reported that 
they were massacred. There was now no doubt 
that a battle was near, and the enemy were said to 
be hovering around, concealing themselves in the 
mountains for a favorable moment to strike a blow. 
At this time Captain C. was going to Camargo 
with a train of mules and a guard of thirty men, 
and one commissioned and three non-commissioned 
officers were detailed to go with this train, to guard 
the wagons going and returning. This order was is- 
sued by Brigadier-general Marshall, then command- 
ing at this point. "When we consider the state of 
afFau's at this time, it is a matter of wonder that a 
larger detail was not made, as it could not reasonably 
be expected that so small a body could make a suc- 
cessful resistance, and also give protection to an en- 
tire train of either wagons or mules. But so it was ; 
and on the 18th of February, about ten in the morn- 
ing, we took leave of the regiment ; we were accom- 
panied by a wagon to carry our provisions, knap- 
sacks, &c. ; Lieutenant Barber, of the eighth compa- 
ny, was in command of the escort. Our comrades, 
whom we left behind us, bid us a cheerful adieu. 
Just as we were starting, we saw that preparations 
were making to hoist the regimental colors. "We 
halted until they were up, gave three cheers, and gay- 
ly went on our way, little thinking that we were to 
see them no more. We were in high spirits, and full 
of fun, rejoicing in the prospect of being for a few days 
released from the irksomeness of camp life. Our 
road for a considerable distance was level. The val- 
ley between the mountains at Monterey and those 



44 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

near Seralvo is atout thirty miles wide ; and as it 
runs parallel with the mountains, its length I can not 
state. It is mostly covered with chapparal, and only 
in one place is timber of any value to be seen, and 
that is in the grove of San Domingo. There are a 
few hills and gentle undulations in the land, and oc- 
casionally a rancho and a small cultivated field may 
be seen. These are all the objects that attract the 
eye or break the monotony of the scene. About ten 
miles from Monterey is a large rancho, called San 
Francisco ; and five miles further is another, called 
Agua Frio^ at which place we encamped that night. 
Only one house in the place looked fit to be inhabit- 
ed, and that was the Dueno's or master's. This was 
very large and commodious, and constructed of dobies, 
an article made of mud in the form of brick, only 
larger, and dried in the sun. After being laid into 
wall, it is plastered both inside and outside. For the 
roof, poles were hewn square, and placed about six 
inches apart ; on these were placed burned brick, and 
then plastered over. Those of the poorer classes of 
the people are made by means of poles driven into 
the ground close together, and the crevices closed 
with moss, grass, or mud. The roof is usually thatch- 
ed with the leaf of the bayonet-tree. There is gen- 
erally only one room, and in this they sleep, cook, 
eat, and drink. We encamped in the Plaza, on a high 
blufi" bank by the side of the river. At dark we 
posted our sentinels and stretched ourselves in the 
open au' for a night's sleep, and soon our troubles 
were all forgotten. During the night I began to 
dream ; several things flitted across my troubled 



IN MEXICO. 45 

brain. Just at this juncture the mules were kicking 
and stamping about, and the idea came into my head 
that the Mexicans were on us. I immediately yelled 
at the top of my voice, '^ Turn out ! the enemy is on 
us !" The cry awakened all my comrades ; and by 
this time I too was awake, and found myself in a 
standing position. I soon began to realize where I 
was, and by the jokes and laughter of the others, was 
soon made sensible of what I had done, and quietly 
turned in for another nap. "We arose early in the 
morning, and were soon ready for a start. 

During the night two travelers had joined us, who 
were going below. One was Captain Henry, of the 
Texan Rangers ; the other was merely a camp-fol- 
lower. Captain Henry told us that he was with the 
Kentucky cavahy, and was taken with them, trav- 
eled with them four days, gained all the information 
possible relative to the force of the enemy, and also 
the strength of the army that was yet coming. So 
important was it considered by the officers who were 
prisoners that this news should reach G-eneral Taylor 
before their arrival, that a plan was concocted for 
him to make his escape. He was further induced 
to do so from this fact. During the Texan war, this 
same Captain Henry was taken by the Mexicans, 
carried to San Luis Potosi, and kept there two years, 
after which they let him go, on condition of his taking 
an oath never to bear arms against the republic again, 
which he did. He came a second time with the army, 
was taken, and recognized ; and it was their inten- 
tion to shoot him on their arrival at San Luis. This 
he knew ; and, therefore, he determined to make his 



46 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

escape. All the officers who were taken were allowed 
horses, and all those above the rank of captain were 
allowed to retain their own. The others were fur- 
nished with Mexican ponies. On the fourth day, pre- 
vious to starting, he changed his horse with a Major 
G-., who had a fine blooded animal. At night, when 
they had arrived at their camping-ground, he was 
ordered by the officers of the guard to form the pris- 
oners into a line, for the purpose of counting them. 
He did so; and while he was riding up and down 
the line, he selected a place to make a break. The 
guard were very strong, three and four deep all around 
them. He soon made a desperate rush for the lower 
end of the line, where three horses were standing 
abreast. On coming near, the high-spirited horso 
made a desperate leap, cleared one, knocked the two 
others down, and swiftly fled from them. So sudden 
was this movement that they could not possibly pre- 
vent its being successful. A shower of balls was sent 
after him, and a pursuit commenced^ but all was of 
no avail. Before coming up with us he had been 
attacked by some rancheros. They fired at him, and 
he was wounded just under the point of the chin. A 
pursuit was made, but, having the fleetest horse, he 
soon left them. "We were inclined to disbelieve;-this 
report, it looked so like an impossibility ; but, on our 
arrival in San Luis afterward, we saw two men who 
were taken prisoners at that time, and they told us 
the same story that Captain H. did. 

We at this place found a few of the mules that we 
were to go down with ; the rest were coming into the 
main road at Marine, all having been hired of the 



IN MEXICO. 47 

Mexicans. The escort mounted on some of the mules 
and started for that place, distant ten miles. The 
road nearly all the way was very level, and only a 
few houses were to be seen. The soil is rich, and 
would, with proper cultivation, support a dense pop- 
ulation. We arrived at Marine early in the after- 
noon, where we found some more of the mules that 
had been engaged by Captain C. That night they 
all came in, accompanied by that gentleman. This 
is a small but beautiful place, considering that it 
is a Mexican town. There is a fine Plaza, church, 
&o. ; the houses are all neatly built, and in every re- 
spect it has the appearance of a thriving and indus- 
trious place. It is situated on a hill, which affords 
an extensive view of the surrounding country. 

The road toward Seralvo is level, and mostly open 
for some distance, but it afterward becomes quite 
hilly, winding through ravines ; and the scenery as- 
sumes a more wild and romp^ntic aspect, and a thick 
and impenetrable chapparal forms a wall on each side 
of the road. At some distance in front and on one 
side rose the cloud-capped mountains. Toward night 
we reached Papagaya, a rancho, but it had been 
burned down. Here we encamped; and the next 
morning we made an early start, determined to reach 
Seralvo that night. Soon after starting, some of the 
boys thought that they would ride, and accordingly 
procured a mule. I also caught a mule, and mount- 
ed him. He soon began to rear, kick, and plunge ; 
and, as I had no bridle on him, I could neither gov- 
ern nor guide him; and there being no help for it, 
of course, I tumbled off. I was considerably hurt. 



48 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

This excited the mirth of the Mexicans, who ex- 
claimed '^Mucho bueno^^ (very good). This was add- 
ing insult to injury, and was more than poor human 
nature could bear ; so I determined to resent it, and, 
picking up a stone, threw it at him with all my might. 
This had the desired effect, as it not only silenced 
him, hut also all the rest. It also brought on me the 
censure of the lieutenant, to which, however, I paid 
little attention. Our road now became rough and 
rocky. The passage through the mountains was 
any thing but an easy and pleasant task ; but on we 
marched, and soon came in sight of Seralvo, which 
place we reached about sunset. Here we met the 
train-wagons (105 in number), just coming in from 
Camargo, under the command of Captain Smith, with 
an escort of the second Ohio regiment. 

We remained here only one night, and in the morn- 
ing turned to go back with the train to Monterey, the 
Ohioans returning to Camargo with the mules. This 
was the 21st of February, 1847. By sunrise we were 
under way, and that day went ten miles, nothing of 
any note having occurred. The next morning, a 
short time after we had started, we met an express 
from Monterey, who brought orders to Lieutenant B. 
not to leave Seralvo, as the immediate proximity of a 
large force of the enemy would render it impossible 
for him to bring the train, or even come through safely 
with the guard. The lieutenant, as we were only 
twenty miles from Marine, where three companies 
of the second Ohio regiment were stationed, determ- 
ined to push forward to that place, and detail what 
was necessary to go with us to Monterey. We that 



IN MEXICO. 49 

night encamped at a rancho called Ramos, in a kind 
of square, and placed our wagons in a circle, the 
mules on the inside. Within this we built our camp- 
fires and cooked our supper. Some of the men took 
a stroll among the houses, in very few of which was 
to he seen an inhabitant. This at the time struck 
us as something remarkable ; but the next day's 
events solved the problem. In addition to the train 
of wagons, there were with us some merchants going 
to Monterey and Saltillo. The gentleman from the 
latter place was an Irishman. He had with him his 
only daughter, just arrived from Ireland, having been 
separated from him fifteen years. He had hired some 
Mexicans with their mules to carry his goods to that 
city, and thus far had kept company with us. When 
within three miles of Ramos, the Mexicans refused 
to proceed further that night. All expostulations 
were vain ; and they proceeded to unload their mules. 
He then came into our camp, made a statement of 
the case to the lieutenant, and also his fears for the 
safety of his daughter, and requested the lieutenant 
to give him a guard of men to force the muleteers to 
bring in his goods : this the lieutenant could not do, 
as he was not connected with the army, nor was he 
a citizen of the United States. But, he added, if any 
of the men would volunteer, he woulsl make no ob- 
jections. Four men offered their assistance, procured 
horses, and proceeded with him. They soon brought 
the refractory drivers to their senses, whtJj on seeing 
the appearance of the guard, quickly reloaded their 
mules and came on to our camp. 

On the morning following we made an early start. 
C 



50 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

Our road for a short distance was level, and then de- 
scended a large and steep hill. On account of the 
alarms of the day before, the guard v^as placed in 
front ; we slowly wended our way along the winding 
path, frequently stopping to let the wagons close up. 
We had proceeded in this manner ahout five miles, 
by which time the train had descended the hill, and 
were slowly moving forward on the level plain below, 
when we were suddenly startled by the cry of " The 
lancers are on 2is .'" On looking to our right, we saw 
their lances glistening in the sun, and a horrid yell 
rang in our ears. A heavy charge was made on us 
by a large body of them, who fired their esoopetas 
at us, which, however, did no execution. "We were 
thi'own into confusion, fired a few guns, and retreat- 
ed into the chapparal, where we formed, and came 
out with the determination to protect the train, when 
we saw that the entire line had been attacked at one 
and the same time. The teams were scattered in 
every direction. The charge was made with demo- 
niac fury, and volley after volley was fired on the de- 
fenseless teamsters, of whom they made a dreadful 
slaughter. Captain S., seeing that it was useless to 
attempt saving the train, proposed to Lieutenant B. 
to go to Marine, and bring out the troops to assist 
them in saving it. But the road, we soon found, was 
guarded strongly by their cavalry ; seeing which we 
struck off into the bushes, and took a circuitous route, 
hoping to elude their vigilance. We frequently saw 
bodies " of their cavalry prowling around us, but they 
made no attack, and fled to another position as we 
approached. After a tedious march of near four hours. 



IN MEXICO. 51 

we came in sight of the so-much- wished-for place, but 
only to encounter fresh troubles ; for, as we issued 
from the dense chapparal into the level, open plain, 
there stood the enemy formed ready for a charge. 
They were but a short distance from us, and we could 
plainly see their officers ridmg up and down their 
ranks. They numbered at least one thousand men, 
and our number only twenty -three, the rest being 
back among the wagons. Captain S., seeing the ut- 
ter hopelessness of a resistance against such a force 
or a successful retreat, proposed to the lieutenant to 
surrender, as a refusal would be at the cost of all of 
our lives. The desperate situation in which we were 
placed induced us to comply. A call was then made 
for a white handkerchief, to be used as a flag, but 
none could be found. A white shirt, however, was 
worn by one of the men, and a part of this was put 
in requisition, and stuck on a bayonet. Captain S. 
rode in front a short distance with it, when a Mexi- 
can officer rode up and received his arms, having done 
which they shook hands. We could not but notice 
his fear and trepidation ; so great was his hurry that 
he was in some measure rude, as he did not wait to 
have them delivered, but took them, and that not in 
the most genteel manner possible. By this time Gren- 
eral Urrea, commander of the Mexican forces, came 
up, accompanied with his staff, with whom Lieuten- 
ant B. had some conversation relative to the terms of 
our surrender, treatment, &c. He assured us that we 
would receive kind usage. At this juncture a large 
number of their cavalry came up at a full gallop. 
The lieutenant, supposing that they were going to 



52 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

charge on us, stepped "back, and spoke to Greneral 
Urrea in these terms : " Keep back your cavalry, 
Gr — d d — ^n you !" This v^as repeated several times ; 
then turning to us, he said, "Should they make a 
charge, fire on the officers in front of you, and let the 
men alone." The cavalry were ordered back, and we 
were ordered to lay down our arms. As we saw no 
advantage in further parley, we quietly did so. 

There was with us the teamster that went down 
with us, who had been badly wounded, in the first 
attack, and had followed us in our meandering course. 
By this time he had become weak from loss of blood, 
and unable to proceed any further ; so he was carried, 
by order of the general, to the quarters of the surgeon, 
and two of our men were ordered to go with him into 
the town. After resting a few moments, we were 
marched off to a large rancho about nine miles dis- 
tant. On our arrival we saw a large number of 
women, who followed the army. The colonel that 
commanded the escort asked the ranchero for some 
pilonci (a kind of sugar) and some tortillas for us to 
eat: he said he had none. The wily Mexican un- 
derstood it ; for he pulled a dollar from his pocket, 
gave it him, when forthwith an abundance of provi- 
sions were brought out. Here we were in as tight a 
place as man can well get into, and with no prospect 
of liberation, and in the power of a most barbarous 
nation, who would not scruple, on the slightest pre- 
text, to put us all to death. The example of Fan- 
ning's massacre, and the fall of Mier, rose vividly to 
mind, and we all expected to be shot, more particu- 
larly as we were volunteers, and had heard that it is 



IN MEXICO. 53 

a practice of this government to kill all volunteers, 
and take none prisoners. At all events, we looked 
for the most cruel treatment, and we were not disap- 
pointed. 

Having arrived at this point, it will be proper to 
take a short glance at some circumstances that took 
place. The Irish gentleman, to whom we had given 
assistance the night before, was near the escort when 
it was attacked, and had a carriage drawn by one 
horse. In this carriage his daughter rode ; and at 
the first onset of the enemy he was shot dead. Two 
soldiers came up to it, and saw the young lady ; one 
leveled his gun to shoot her, but the other would not 
permit it. She got out, and with such haste that she 
left her bonnet and shoes, and started for the chap- 
paral. Another soldier saw her running, pursued her 
with his horse, poised his lance, and was in the act 
of throwing it, when he was shot by one of om- men, 
and thus she was rescued from a horrid death. Her 
carriage was plundered of all her clothing, money, 
and jewels. She remarked that she was reduced from 
wealth to poverty, having lost several hundred pounds 
of her own money, besides that of her father. She 
performed the march with us through the woods and 
thorny bushes with the greatest fortitude. Toward 
the last one of our men pulled off his own shoes, and 
gave them to her to wear. We afterward heard that 
Greneral Urrea gave her twenty dollars, and sent her 
to Monterey. Several more of our men were coming 
in all the while, and bringing horrid accounts of the 
state of affairs. They said that the enemy were rid- 
ing over the field, killing those who might be wound- 



54 - TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ed, and murdering those who might yet be found. 
No cries for mercy were of any avail ; the groans of 
the wounded were heard with savage delight. After 
a long time, our two comrades, who had gone with 
the wounded teamster, returned, stating that they 
saw about fifteen hundred soldiers in and around the 
town. Captain S. was retained with the Mexican 
general, and did not join us for two or three days. 



m MEXIC9. 



CHAPTER III. 

Treatment of the Prisoners. —Marched to Caterita. — Saddle Mount- 
ain.— A Kow, — Petty Plundering. — Plan of Escape. — Arrive at Ur- 
rea's Head-quarters. — Hard Treatment. — Don Juan. — Kindness of 
the Mexican Guard. — Occurrences round Marine. — Proceedings at 
Head-quarters. — High expectations of the Enemy. — Addition to 
our Number. — Marched to Mont Morales. — Incidents. — Great 
change at Morales. — Quarrel with a Soldier. — Depart for San Luis 
Potosi. — Cruel Treatment.—Arrive at a Town. — Hostility of the In- 
habitants.—Wounded Prisoners.— Statements of Mexican Officers. 

Suffer from Heat and Dust. — Mountain Passes. — Our Persons 

searched. — Gloomy Surmises. — Appearance of the Country. — Re- 
markable Scene. — Receive kind Treatment from the People. — 
Great Scai-city of Water. — Severe Sufferings. — Generous Conduct 
of a Woman. — -Means of procuring Water. — News of Buena Vista. 
— Arrival at San Luis Potosi. — Our Reception. 

The people at the rancho treated us kindly, espe- 
cially the women. Our captors certainly were very 
much elated with what they termed this important 
capture. The soldiers appeared to be a sullen, sav- 
age-looking set. Frequently they would draw their 
hands across their throats, to intimate that we were 
to he thus put to death, saying, '' Poco tiempo" (in a 
little time). This did not alarm us, as we were ex- 
pecting just such treatment. At last they prepared 
to march us forward. We were formed into two 
ranks, and numbered about sixty. A strong guard 
was placed over us, well mounted and armed. No 
information was given as to where we were going ; 
but on, on they marched at a rapid pace. At length 



56 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

we arrived at a place where the road was very nar- 
row, and a high fence on each side of it, composed of 
the thorny chapparal-hush. Here we thought, with- 
out fail, they would murder us ; but no — onward we 
marched, over hill and dale. For a variety, we were 
forced sometimes to ford rivers that were fifteen or 
twenty rods wide. These pure and cooling streams 
would refresh us, and give new life and vigor to our 
limbs. At length, after a very fatiguing march, we 
arrived at the city of Cater ita about nine at night, 
rejoicing greatly in not having been shot by the way. 
During the march that we had made we were in 
sight of a mountain near Monterey, that was, from 
its peculiar form, called the Saddle Mountain. Oft- 
en did we gaze at this, and think the farewell that 
we would like to bid our comrades who were lying 
securely encamped not far from it. We intended, 
should ckcumstances take such a turn that we could 
make our escape, to make this towering height a land- 
mark to guide us to our friends and the protection 
of their arms. 

The excitement of the people now ran to the high- 
est pitch against the Americans, and we were insult- 
ed in almost every shape. Liquor was given to the 
soldiers, and, drinking to excess, they soon became 
beastly drunk. One of them, in a fit of generosity, 
gave one of our men a piece of corn-bread ; another 
soldier, on seeing this, began to quarrel with him 
about it. Swords were drawn ; others joined in the 
melee, and soon it became general. In the affray two 
of our men were wounded — one severely, the other 
slightly. We were sitting on the ground, resting. 



IN MEXICO. 57 

Some of the most drunken of them ordered us to rise. 
As several did not understand them, they did not rise. 
This incensed them : they poised their lances, and 
threw them with all their force. We all made up 
our minds to die, expecting that a combined attack 
would he made to cut us in pieces. At this moment 
a man came to me, saying that, should they make an 
attack, it was his intention to unhorse one of the 
guard, mount his horse, and go hack to Monterey. 
I said that I would go with him. He then showed 
me the horse that he had siagled out, and pointed 
me to another, a fine, noble animal. Then separa- 
ting, each of us went close to his chosen horse, anx- 
iously waiting for the crisis. About this time, the 
officers, coming up, inquired into the cause of the row. 
To settle it, and prevent its repetition, they flogged 
the principals severely with their swords. This put 
an end to it, and we breathed more freely. 

"We stayed here about one hour, when we were or- 
dered to form in line. We were again counted, and 
then started, followed by a great number of boys and 
men, who were continually hooting at us, and throw- 
ing clods of dirt and stones, and cheering G-eneral 
Urrea. They followed us a great distance, robbing 
us of any article of clothing that they might fancy. 
Some would take a neckcloth, others a jacket, hat, 
or shoes ; and, by the time they had finished, we were 
completely stripped of all our clothing that was of 
any value, notwithstanding the weather was exceed- 
ingly cold. But we might as well have expected mer- 
cy or compassion from fiends as from these demons in 
human shape. On the march they kept their horses 
C 2 



58 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

trotting, and forced us to keep up with them, weary- 
as we were ; and should any of us fall back from fa- 
tigue or any other cause, he was either pierced with 
a lance or struck with a sword. During the night, 
seven or eight of our men were thus mercilessly 
wounded. Such being the treatment we were to ex- 
pect for the future, Mr. Parker, captain of a train of 
wagons, who had been a prisoner among them during 
the Texan wars, suggested to us to attempt taking 
the guard, mounting their horses, and going back. 
The enterprise was desperate, and many, no doubt, 
would lose their lives. Still, many consented. He 
then went to the lieutenant for his approbation and 
assistance. It was by him discountenanced, and no 
more was said about it. "Whether we could have 
succeeded or not, I can not say ; they were well armed 
and mounted — we, destitute, wearied, and fatigued, 
would have no advantage at all. But, balancing 
against these despair, and a determination to find 
liberty or death, some, doubtless, would have made 
their escape, and the rest would probably be killed. 
By this time the night was well advanced. "We 
would frequently ask our guard how much further 
we had to go. They would answer, " Five or six 
leagues," as the case might be. This encouraged us 
but little, for fears were entertained that some of 
the men would give up, in which case their death 
would inevitably follow. The crowd that came out 
of Caterita had nearly all returned ; there being noth- 
ing more of which they could plunder us, they be- 
came tired of the unprofitable pursuit. But our troub- 
les were not yet at an end, even in this respect, for 



IN MEXICO 59 

many of us had canteens for carrying water ; the 
Mexicans hegan to take these ; and soon every one 
was taken. Ahout three o'clock in the morning we 
arrived at the head-quarters of G-eneral Urrea, more 
dead than alive from cold and fatigue. While the 
commanding officer was inspecting us, we were made 
to take off our hats as a mark of respect ; and those 
who did not take them off voluntarily had them taken 
oif for them. Officers, men, and women stood gazing 
at us as though we were the first white men they had 
ever seen. At this time, an officer who spoke good 
English, having the appearance of a foreigner, came 
up to us and asked how we had been treated — wheth- 
er any of our men had been wounded, and if we had 
had any thing to eat. "We told him all. "When in- 
formed of the robbery of our clothes, he promised to 
get them back for us ; but we never saw them again. 
He also told us that if we wanted any thing, and 
could not call for it, to send for him, and he would 
come and interpret for us, giving his name as Don 
Juan. We afterward were informed that he was a 
deserter from the American army. 

At length, to our relief, their curiosity being satis- 
fied, we were marched oif to a place used as a corn- 
house. There was in it some tlu-ee or four hundred 
bushels of corn ; and, without any thing being given 
us to eat or drink, we were allowed the privilege of 
lying on the corn, or cold, bare earth, without coats, 
blankets, or any thing to cover us, and shelter us 
from the cold air. A more miserable night (or rath- 
er morning, for it was near daylight) could scarcely 
be passed. At length we fell into a kind of slumber. 



60 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

As though to torment us as much as possible, when, 
they saw that we were asleep, they awakened us and 
ordered us to form in for another count, this being 
about the thirtieth time since our capture. Looking 
through the door, we could see the gray streaks of 
morning decking the distant horizon. We gladly 
hailed the rising of the sun ; for as it shone alike on 
the oppressor and the oppressed, we hoped, in its re- 
fulgent rays, to forget, at least for a time, some of 
our troubles. 

We numbered only sixty — twenty-three soldiers 
and thirty-seven drivers, and we concluded the rest 
must have been all killed. About eight in the morn- 
ing Don Juan came to see us ; he told us some ad- 
ditional news — said that Urrea had a force of twenty- 
five hundred men — ^that they had been fighting in 
Marine two days. As that little force was only one 
hundred and fifty strong, great fears were entertained 
for their safety. But of one thing we were satisfied, 
viz., that those brave boys would do their duty. He 
further stated, that when we were encamped at Ra- 
mos, they had us surrounded, but did not dare to 
attack us, as they feared that we would go into the 
houses, and from these show fight. This assuredly 
would have been done ; and probably we would not, 
in that case, have been taken. This clearly account- 
ed for the singular disappearance of the inhabitants 
that night. About ten, some coffee and tortillas were 
brought in and divided equally among us. This was 
to last us for the day ; and Don Juan informed us 
that it was after the most earnest entreaty on his 
part that even this pitiful morsel was given us. Oc- 



IN MEXICO. 61 

casionally a woman would "bring some tortillas, hand 
them tlirough the window to the soldiers of the guard, 
and they would give us a portion of their rations. 
In this we were agreeably disappointed, not expect- 
ing this act of generosity from them. It was little 
that they could give ; but that little, I believe, saved 
us from starving. 

That day some more prisoners were brought in; 
they stated that soon after we were taken, and on 
the same day, two hundred men came from Monterey 
with two pieces of cannon to succor the garrison in 
Marine ; that G-eneral Urrea, although more than five 
times their number, would not fight them, but pack- 
ed up and fled to the mountains, leaving the garrison 
and also some prisoners, who were so badly wounded 
that they could not take them. These next day start- 
ed with the rest of the Americans for Monterey, and 
having gone as far as Agua Frio, they saw the enemy 
coming at full charge from the chapparal. They 
were ready to meet them, and sent a few messengers 
of death among them from their big guns, following 
them with volleys from their small arms, killing and 
wounding a great number, and driving the remainder 
back to the mountains. 

That day we were allowed to go out into the yard 
around the house. As we went out they counted us, 
a strong guard watching our movements, and crowds 
of citizens thronged to see us ; but the best order was 
observed. They made a few attempts to converse 
with us, but we did not understand them, and they 
desisted. Frequently did we hear some of the women 
fexolaim to one and another, ''pobrecitos" (poor fel- 



62 TRAVKLS AND ADVENTURES 

lows). We felt thankful for their sympathy , hiit 
wished them to show it more effectually by giving 
us something to eat. "We stayed out near an hour, 
when they ordered us to go in, counting us as we 
passed the door. By this time hunger began to oper- 
ate on us rather strongly. "We begged for something 
to eat, but it was of no use. They said '' poco tiem- 
po ;" therefore we waited as patiently as we could 
for " poco tiempo" to come. About ten o'clock that 
night two quarters of beef were brought in, and a 
portion given to every man, without bread or tortillas, 
and this was to serve until the same time the next 
night. 

A fire was made in the middle of the room with 
corn cobs. On this we broiled our meat, and ate it 
as best we could. Before they permitted us to sleep 
we were counted. The next morning we were turn- 
ed out for counting, when another fire was made for 
us to roast more meat. After a while we received 
another visit from Don Juan, accompanied by some 
G-ermans, but they were unable to speak English. 
Don Juan inquired if there were any who spoke Grer- 
man. On this four men came up to him and held 
some conversation with their countrymen. They 
gave them some advice, and, in particular, charged 
them not to make an attempt to escape, as the Mex- 
ican forces were in the possession of all the roads and 
passes, and an escape, therefore, was impossible. 
They further said that a speedy exchange would 
probably take place. They were accompanied by 
some ladies, who seemed to pity us greatly, and even 
bought some provisions for us, which wore most 



IN MEXICO. 63 

thankfully received. They soon left and went their 
way. 

The officers of the guard would try to amuse us 
by saying how they were going to retake Monterey, 
Camargo, Matamoras, and, in short, all the places held 
"by the Americans ; that Santa Anna had Greneral 
Taylor entii-ely ui his power, havmg him completely 
surrounded by twenty thousand choice troops ; that 
in Vera Cruz were some thhty thousand, in Chiliua- 
hua was another large force, and in California about 
twenty-four thousand, and they were just on the point 
of defeating the Americans at every place. But these 
high anticipations came to naught. 

We remained here five days, the same routine of 
treatment being continued. During this time some 
ten or twelve more prisoners were brought in, making 
our number about seventy-two. On the sixth day 
we were paraded in the street and counted prepara- 
tory to a march. Previous to starting, however, they 
gave us two shillings each. The officer that was to 
command the escort had an air of noble frankness 
about him that won our confidence and esteem. "We 
surely thought that with him we would at least find 
protection, nor were we disappointed. He proved 
himself to be a gentleman and a man of honor. The 
troops were all leaving here and going to Marine, 
having the prospect of another battle with the Amer- 
icans. At length, all being ready, we started ; Don 
Juan, we found, was to go with us. At this all great- 
ly rejoiced, thinking that he might be able to render 
us some assistance, which he did, too, though over the 
left shoulder. - ■. 



64 TEAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

The place we were going to is called Mont Mora- 
les^ distant eighteen leagues. "We moved off just as 
the sun had risen. This place, which a few moments 
before was a scene of hustle and activity, was now 
entirely deserted, and silent as the grave ; we were 
among the last who left, and were forcibly struck 
with the silence that reigned around us. The air be- 
ing cool, we moved at a rapid pace ; many were quite 
stiff and sore from the effects of the severity of our 
first march. The road was very rough and rocky, 
from its proximity to the mountains ; the country was 
uncultivated, and only in one place were to be seen 
houses or inhabitants. 

At this time we looked back, and for the last time 
saw the Saddle Mountains ; and many were the sur- 
mises and conjectures relative to what our friends 
were doing. The guard, whose attention also had 
been directed there, well knowing about what we 
were speaking, laughed in derision, saying, Mucho 
bueno los Mexicanos, and Carajo los Americanos. 
Then from another quarter would we hear some of 
them boasting how valiant they were, and what cow- 
ards were their enemies. About eleven o'clock we 
came to a large hacienda, where we rested and pur- 
chased some provisions. "While here, Don Juan came 
to us, saying that he wished to make a proposition 
to the men, which was, that as he was going with us 
through the country, and understood the language, 
the prices of provision, &c., it would be better for us 
to give him our money, as he could get more with 
the same amount than we could. To this we readily 
acceded, and each one gave him his tw6 shillings. 



IN MEXICO. 65 

Soon after we were ordered to march, and they 
counted us as we fell into line. The sun by this time 
was very hot, which, with the dustiness of the road, 
added greatly to our inconvenience. But not a mur- 
mur was heard. "We determined to bear all that they 
could inflict unflinchingly. And when it was nearly 
sunset, our caterer went forward at a swift pace. 
From this we thought that our day's march was 
nearly through, and we quickened our pace ; but we 
did not reach the town until eight at night. They 
conducted us to the carcel, where we found a large 
concourse of citizens, crowding around to see us. A 
few months before, a body of Americans came into 
this town and fortified it. The works were still 
standing ; and in front of us was the staff on which 
waved our victorious flag. Then the Mexicans were 
all submission and servility; now they were over- 
bearing and insulting. 

After standmg here nearly half an hour, we went 
into the jail-yard, where we found provisions of all 
kinds, and utensils to cook them in. "We soon pre- 
pared our supper, and for the first time since our cap- 
ture had enough to eat. Being very tired, we soon 
went to sleep ; previously, however, I had purchased 
of a soldier a blanket, for which I gave him a dollar, 
the last and only money that I had. The room as- 
signed us was far too small for so large a company. 
"V^e some way or other, however, made room to lie 
down ; but the air soon became insufferably hot and 
close, as there was no circulation. So a rush was 
made to the door ; but, as it was locked, one made 
room for another, in order to get a little fresh air 



66 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES . 

through the cross-bars. At length sleep overcame us, 
and our troubles were forgotten. 

Early the following morning our door was unlocked, 
and we were permitted to go into the yard. It was 
not large, yet it was sufficiently so to afford us good 
exercise. It also contained a well, and a large vat 
or tub, made for washing. At an early hour more 
provisions were brought for us, and our breakfast 
was soon prepared. At the mioment the door was 
first opened, the soldier of whom I had on the previ- 
ous evening bought the blanket came in, walked up 
to me, and coolly took it. I resisted, and was in the 
act of taking it from him, when he drew his sword, 
I suppose to frighten me. I at the same time drew 
a large pocket-knife that I had, having a blade about 
six inches long. Some of my comrades interfered, 
and forced me to give up the blanket. Had they not 
done so, I know not how the affair would have ended. 
But I gave it up ; and when Don Juan came in, I told 
him of it. He called the soldier out, and reported 
him to the captain, who made him return the blanket, 
and gave him a severe flogging. 

We remained at this place two days ; and on the 
morning of the third we were awakened long before 
day, and ordered to turn out, cook our breakfast, and 
prepare for a march. About daybreak we were ready, 
and on we started, passing the massive gateways that 
held us confined like so many cattle. 

Our march to-day was very rough, and over a dis- 
tance af eighteen leagues ; water was to be had but 
twice on the route. Our guard hastened us on at a 
rapid pace, as though anxious to hurry us from the 



IN MEXICO. 67 

place where we had, for the first time since our cap- 
ture, received any thing like good treatment. Our 
route was along the foot of the mountains, and con- 
sequently rough, barren, and uninhabited. 

Scenes of cruelty (some of which I can not put on 
these pages) occurred on this day, one or two of which 
I will relate. One of our company was sick, and un- 
able to keep up» He fell behind, and was found by 
an officer, who was not attached to our guard, who 
whipped him with his sword until he could scarcely 
stand, and was utterly disabled from moving. His 
hands were then tied together, and by them he was 
hung on the pommel of the saddle of this gallant offi- 
cial, and dragged along some three miles. From this 
intolerable and excruciating position he was at length 
relieved by the commanding officer, placed on a mule, 
and carried to the town whither we were going. As 
the day advanced it became excessively hot, and, hav- 
ing no water, our thirst was very great. Toward 
noon our eyes were gladdened with a stream ; but 
imagine our disappointment when, instead of being 
allowed to drink, orders were given to move on. All 
our entreaties were of no avail ; they had enough, and 
theu' hearts were deaf to our appeals. With sad fore- 
bodings we pressed onward. Not a word of com- 
plaint escaped our lips ; for it was our firm resolve to 
bear all that they could inflict on us, and show them 
that, as American soldiers, we could sufier adverse 
fortune as well as achieve glory with our arms. "We 
were proud of our situation, as no disgrace was en- 
tailed on us in our defeat, our force being thirty, and 
theirs one thousand. 



68 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

About two o'clock we came to a hacienda or large 
farm-house, where we rested a while, and procured 
some water and a little provision. Orders were soon 
given to move on, and again we were picking our way- 
through the chapparal. This was the first house we 
had seen since we left Mont Morales, and it was the 
last we should see until our arrival at Linares, a dis- 
tance of near ten leagues. But on, on we traveled, 
occasionally cheered by the sight of a drove of wild 
horses, of which there were plenty. 

At length we came to another stream, where we 
were allowed to rest a while — a favor as acceptable 
as a meal of victuals could have been at other times. 
Soon we started onward, and, ascending a high hill, 
we had a view of the place where we were destined 
to pass the night. We had still a great distance to 
travel before we could hope for rest, yet the sight in- 
fused fresh vigor into our limbs ; the burning sun and 
the clouds of dust that rolled up before us no longer 
served to depress our spirits, and we cheerfully obey- 
ed the orders to quicken our march. At last the sun, 
whose heat had scorched our bodies for two thirds of 
the day, went down, and a deep gloom succeeded, 
but the atmosphere was cool and invigorating. By 
the faint glimmerings of lights, the outline of a town 
could now be discerned, and at length we reached the 
suburbs. There we met a large concourse of citi- 
zens, who came out to gaze on men belonging to the 
armies which had gained such signal victories over 
them. The populace became excited, and an attempt 
was made to break the guard and massacre us ; but, 
by the vigilance of the officers and the exertions of 



IN MEXICO. 69 

our guard, we were saved from destruction. In this 
attempt several Mexicans were wounded severely; 
and from the curses and execrations with which we 
were greeted as we passed along, it was evident that 
they were highly exasperated against us ; but we ar- 
rived safely at the quarters assigned us. Here, also, 
we found provisions awaiting us, but we were so tired 
and exhausted that we could hardly move. Some 
lay down on the ground and went to sleep ; others, 
who were more hardy, prepared some coffee, meat, 
and tortillas. After eating we immediately lay down, 
and soon forgot that we were prisoners. 

Several of our men had been wounded seriously 
when we were captured, and their w^ounds were 
dressed but once since they were taken. I was now 
called to go and dress them, as it was known that I 
had spent some time in the study of medicine and 
surgery. On the march they had been allowed to 
ride, and to mess with our officers ; so they got on 
quite comfortably. Some materials were procured, 
which I proceeded to use to the best of my ability. 
Their wounds, I found, were in a very bad condition, 
owing to neglect and the warm weather ; but, as they 
were now dressed daily, they healed rapidly, and in 
the course of four weeks they were completely healed. 

Our quarters at this place were superior to any we 
before had. The town is large and regularly built ; 
the houses are generally but one story high, and, like 
all other Mexican towns, they have flat roofs, with 
battlements. Of our treatment at this place we 
were not disposed to complain ; we had plenty to eat 
and drink ; and though we lay on the cold, hard 



70 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ground, yet, as prisoners of war, what better could 
we expect at the hands of this barbarous people ? 
While here, we were joined by eight more prisoners, 
making our present number eighty ; these informed 
us of the victories of our arms at Marine and Cold 
"Water. Bad as was our condition, we heartily re- 
joiced over these successes ; for, from the time of our 
capture, the Mexican officers were continually telling 
us that they were going to retake all the towns occu- 
pied by the Americans ; that Santa Anna was going 
to Saltillo with 22,000 men ; that Taylor and all his 
army would soon be prisoners ; that 40,000 choice 
troops were going to Vera Cruiz ; 20,000 were going 
to California, &c. They told us a thousand stories 
of this kind — ^that a storm was gathering, and about 
to burst on our victorious arms, the substance of 
which was, that they would come on us as an ava- 
lanche, armed with irresistible power, and with one 
mighty stroke hurl us from our lofty height, crush 
us, and consign us to eternal oblivion. All this gas- 
conade served only to amuse us, and beguile the many 
weary hours which passed ; for we well knew that 
the reverse was the case, and all their boasting gave 
us no uneasiness. 

We stayed here two days, and then started for San 
Luis Potosi, a distance of thirty days' march. Our 
fost day's march was short (only fifteen leagues), but 
unusually rough, dreary, and fatiguing. The coun- 
try was uninhabited and uncultivated ; the mount- 
ains in front, and a dense chapparal on our sides, 
was all the eye could see. The sun was intensely 
hot; the dust rolled up in clouds above us; no wa- 



IN MEXICO. 71 

ter was to be had, and our sufferings were extreme. 
Our guard had plenty of water, hut from them none 
could be had. On, on they pressed us, like so many 
beasts, perfectly regardless of our sufferings. 

At night we stopped at a large hacienda, at the foot 
of the mountains. There were few buildings of any 
sort, and but one which deserved the name of house. 
In this one we were quartered. It was situated in a 
gap of the mountains, through which we were to pass 
on the morrow. In the rear and in front were mount- 
ains of immense height, the former rising gradually, 
the latter almost perpendicularly to a height not great- 
er than that of the others ; and the scene was both 
grand and sublime. After partaking of a scanty sup- 
per of half-roasted meat, we were paraded in front of 
the place destined for our lodging. Then our inter- 
preter came and said that we must all give up our 
knives, adding that they would be given to us on our 
arrival at San Luis. He added, that we must also 
submit to be searched. All our pockets were accord- 
ingly rummaged, and knives, money, and every thing 
else was taken. Some had valuable papers, which 
were also taken. This, I have good reason to sup- 
pose, was done by authority of the officers. "What 
reason they had for so doing, I know not ; but we cer- 
tainly expected that we must now quietly submit to 
have our throats cut, having been repeatedly told, 
since our capture, that such was to be our fate, not- 
withstanding their many assurances that we should 
be protected. We remembered the fate of the prison- 
ers of the Alamo, and of Fanning and his brave com- 
rades on the bloody fields of Texas. But it was our 



72 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

firm resolve that, if we had to die, v^e should do so 
with arms in our hands ; we should have turned on 
our guard, seized some of their arms, and dealt death 
at every blow around us to the utmost of our power. 

After this act of official rohbery, we were ordered 
to our rooms, counted as we passed in, and then lock- 
ed up. Then did the comforts we once enjoyed around 
our fathers' firesides present themselves before us in 
bold relief— in striking contrast to our present situa- 
tion : a captivity to which we saw no end, and a com- 
bination of miseries to which we saw no bounds, save 
death. 

The next morning we were awakened early, and 
immediately ordered to fall into line and move on- 
ward, which we accordingly did. We were now to 
go through one of the passes, of which there are so 
many in these mountains. It was, most of the way, 
narrow, and extremely rough and rocky ; now climb- 
ing steep precipices, then descending into deep defiles, 
and then proceeding along sharp ledges of rock. The 
thorny bushes which hemmed us in on each side 
proved destructive to our clothes ; and the craggy 
rocks were fast destroying the last remnants of our 
shoes, and none of us could boast of a sufficiency of 
covering to protect us from the heat of the day and 
the chilling blast of night. 

Our path was cheered by an occasional hut, occu- 
pied by shepherds ; and we saw large flocks of sheep 
and goats grazing on the mountains. 

A sharp turn in the road brought us in view of 
one of the most magnificent scenes I ever saw. "We 
came into a sort of narrow lane, about twenty feet 



IN MEXICO. 73 

wide, and about as many rods long, and perfectly- 
level on the bottom. On each side, a perpendicular 
rock, smooth as mason-work, rose to an immense 
height. One of our number, who was a surveyor, 
said that, in his opinion, it could not be less than 
one thousand feet in height. At the further end of 
this wall, a perfect arch was formed over the road. 
Here we halted a moment, and gazed with wonder 
and admiration on this specimen of Omnipotent power. 
One of our number at length remarked that the Al- 
mighty must have done his best here in creatmg this 
stupendous scene. 

Orders now were given to march, and we passed 
on through this arch. We began again to climb, and 
then descend mountains. Not unfrequently we came 
to a chasm, deep and dark, over which we were forced 
to leap, there being no other way by which to pass it ; 
and, fortunately, we all passed them safely. About 
sunset we arrived at a small town, having traveled 
but eight leagues that day ; but, as might be ex- 
pected, we were excessively wearied. 

At this town good quarters were provided for us, 
and very good fare ; the people we found to be kind 
and generous, as they voluntarily gave us many things 
of which we stood m great need, and which we had 
no means to get. This was the first time that we 
had received any favor from the inhabitants ; and we 
were informed by our interpreter that we would find 
them more favorably disposed toward us as we ad- 
vanced into the country. We were also told that 
henceforth there would be a great scarcity of water, 
and that our marches would consequently be much 

D 



74 TRAVELS AMD ADVENTURES 

longer, averaging from fifteen to twenty leagues per 
day. Hov^ the people here supported themselves is 
to me a mystery, as the land is not capable of irriga- 
tion, being altogether too broken and hilly; and I 
saw no cultivated land but a few small patches, that 
appeared to be garden spots. They might, however, 
have been engaged in mining among the mountains 
through which we had passed. These are said to be 
abundantly supplied with the precious metals. Be 
this as it may, the town is a neat, thrifty-looking 
place. 

The next day we marched twenty leagues, nothing 
having occurred worthy of note, except that we lost 
our way by the carelessness of our guide, which 
caused us some extra traveling. Between a burn- 
ing sun, clouds of dust, raging thu'st, and hungry 
stomachs, this was aggravating enough ; but we were 
hurried along, without even once stopping until after 
dark, when, more dead than alive, we dragged our 
weary limbs, as best we could, into the quarters as- 
signed us. 

We passed a weary and almost sleepless night ; 
and early the next morning we were aroused, and 
ordered to get breakfast, and prepare for a long march. 
This was more tedious than the preceding day's, on 
account of the extreme dustiness and heat, but still 
no one gave out until toward night, when three fell 
down, utterly parched for want of water, and com- 
pletely disabled from proceeding, I was one of the 
rmmber. Well do I remember the agony of that mo- 
n^ent, when death stared us in the face, and we ex- 
pected to bid a long farewell to friends ^ home^ and 



IN MEXICO. 70 

comrades. We were suddenly aroused by the voice 
of one of the officers, ordering us onward ; but our 
attempts to rise were vain, until he drew his sword 
and severely flogged us. We eventually succeeded 
in reaching camp, but in a condition not to be envied. 
Just before reaching our quarters, in passing along a 
street, I saw a woman giving water to some of our 
men. I started to go and get some also ; but the 
guard again drew his sword, and forced me on. The 
woman, seeing this, filled her gourd, and hastily 
brought it to me. I drank it off, and would have 
djank more, could it have been got. For this gen- 
erous act I could only return my thanks. But, had 
I been possessed of the wealth of the Indies, I would 
have relinquished it to her. As our general treat- 
ment was bad, I take gTcat pleasure in recording 
such marked instances, where we were treated as hu- 
man beings in distress. 

Wherever we found a village we usually saw a 
large tank, which would fill during the rainy season, 
and afford them a sufficient supply of water for the 
dry season. As for springs and streams, none were 
to be seen, although we were in the midst of hills and 
mountains. 

In addition to want of water, our sufferings were 
increased from the fact that what little clothing we 
had left us was now wearing out. Many had no 
shoes, others had no hats, few had coats, and none 
had clothing sufficient to make them comfortable, and 
we were many times forced to sleep out of doors, ex- 
posed to the chilling blasts of the mountain winds. 

About this time we heard of the great battle of 



76 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

Buena Vista ; our interpreter merely told us that 
Santa Anna was forced to retreat. This we guessed ; 
for none would believe that the one-legged chieftain, 
with his 22,000 choice troops, could cope with the 
hero of Palo Alto and Monterey, with his five thou- 
sand volunteers. "We were encouraged by this news 
to hope for a speedy exchange. 

At last San Luis Potosi, the long-wished-for place, 
hove in sight ; it was a long way off, but there we 
were to rest. In the joy of the moment, our fatigues 
were forgotten, and we hurried on, anxious to behold 
the second city of Mexico both in population and 
wealth. "We arrived at the city, but could see noth- 
ing, as we were hurried at a rapid pace to the quar- 
tel, escorted by a band of music, and saluted with the 
shouts of the citizens, and the gibes and jeers of the 
soldiers. After marching us through several streets 
like a drove of cattle till their curiosity was satisfied, 
they at last took us to our quarters. 






IN MEXICO. 77 



CHAPTER lY. 

Mexican Army return from Buena Vista.-^-Hard Treatment of the Pris- 
oners.— March southward. — Rich Mexican. — Appearance of the 
Country. — Hospitality of the People. — Escorted toward Mexico by 
a Division of the Army. — Condition of the Mexican Forces. — Min- 
eral Wealth. — Arrive at Queretaro. — Our Condition there. — Re- 
lieved by the Charity of some Citizens. — Description of the Town. 
— Aqueducts, Squares, Market, and Convent. — Religious Festival. — 
Our Liberty abridged. — The Cause. — Attempt to Escape. — It 
Fails. — The Result. — Sickness. — Depart for Mexico. — I am left at 
San Juan del Rio. — Delirium and Insensibility. — Recovery. — Sad 
Condition. — Kindness of Visitors. — Hospitality of the Doctor. — He 
becomes my Instructor in Spanish, and leanis English of me. — He 
makes a surprising Discovery. — Introduced to a Priest and several 
Citizens of the higher Classes. — Difierent Conduct of the lower 
Classes. — Difficulties with them. — Generosity of the Priest. — Short 
Rations.— Learn a Ti'ade and commence Work. — Discouraging Re- 
sult. — Debarred from proceeding with other Prisoners. — Descrip- 
tion of San Juan del Rio. — Domestic Arrangements of the People. 
— Generous Offer. — A Ball. — Religious Discussion. — Mexican Gen- 
erals. — Santa Anna.—Account of Captain Gonsalez. — The San Pa- 
tricio Company. — Various Views regarding the War. — Dismay and 
Rejoicing. — Results of the Capture of Mexico. 

The Mexican army had just returned from Buena 
Yista, and from some deserters from the American 
army, who had fought with the Mexicans, we learned 
that Santa Anna had been totally routed, and in kill- 
ed, wounded, and deserters, had suffered a loss of near 
one half of his army ; also that he was now raising 
new forces, and endeavoring to collect a still larger 
army, determined to overwhelm. G-eneral Scott. A 
part of the army was quartered in the same quartel 
with us, though they were separated from us. 



78 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

"We remained in the quartel five days, during 
which time no food was given us. What could have 
been the object of the governor in thus treating us, 1 
can not say. During this time the cry was not for 
water, of which we had plenty, but for bread. Our 
hunger became so great that we even wondered why 
we had not eaten more when we had it to eat. We 
pleaded for some food, but in vain. They seemed to 
delight in our sufferings. 

On the morning of the sixth day we were paraded 
in the yard ; two shillings was given to each of us, 
and without time being allowed us to buy any vict- 
uals, we were marched off, weak and debilitated as 
we were. They marched us thirty miles before we 
halted ; and then, for the first time within six days, 
we procured something to eat. Most of us spent our 
two shillings, and were as far from being satisfied as 
when we began to eat ; and as we were determii, .d 
not to starve when plenty was within our reach, we 
adroitly took by stealth enough to satisfy our wants. 
Some fuss was made about it, but the perpetrators 
could not be detected, and we escaped a punishment 
which might have been severe. 

This night we stayed in a town containing some 
two thousand inhabitants ; and, as we were informed 
by our interpreter, it was owned entirely by one man. 
He also told us that we would travel four days on 
this same man's land, and every night encamp in 
towns fully as large as this, all owned by this man. 
He likewise said that, at the commencement of the 
war, the same man gave four thousand horses to gov- 
-u'nment, and clothed, equipped, and supported one 



IN MEXICO. 79 

regiment of cavalry on service during the war. This 
statement I at the time doubted, but afterward found 
it to be correct. 

The country through which we were now passing 
was mostly level, and generally highly cultivated ; 
corn, beans, and red pepper were the staple produc- 
tions. The land was supplied with water by irriga- 
tion. The inhabitants appeared to be better educa- 
ted than in any part which we had yet seen ; and they 
certainly were more hospitable, for many a time did 
we experience their kindness. 

We traveled for some time, under the escort of one 
of the divisions of the Mexican army, toward the city 
of Mexico. While with them we had a good oppor- 
tunity of seeing the discipline and treatment of Mex- 
ican soldiers. From the elements of which the army 
was composed, I should think it was next to an im- 
possibility to maintain any thing like strict order, or 
make it a force which a man might be proud to 
command. The subordmate officers were, generally 
speaking, ignorant and illiterate. In proof of this, I 
will relate the following occurrence. After we went 
into quarters at night, a captain of the guard came 
into our room and conversed with us for some time, 
asking us questions about our country, &c. At last 
he asked us if G-eneral Washington was coming to 
Vera Cruz with G-eneral Scott. It took us some time 
to be convinced that he was in earnest, and it really 
was a difficult matter to convince him that the great 
Washington had been dead nearly fifty years. Many 
of these officers were taken from the fields, and placed 
in command of men as illiterate and boorish as them- 



80 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

selves. Others were taken from the ranks, and, with- 
out education or instruction in the first principles of 
military matters, they were placed in responsible and 
prominent positions. The men were, as a body, ex- 
ceedingly degraded, and controlled only by the fear 
of the sword. While on a march^ should any through 
fatigue fall behind, they were sure to be severely flog- 
ged with the sword. Many were so worn out that 
they fell dead on the road ; and this was a common 
occurrence. We saw one killed on the spot by an 
officer while attempting to desert. They are poorly 
fed and clothed, and worse paid ; of their pay they 
never receive the full amount. Under such circum- 
stances, their army was little more than a mere rab- 
ble ; but where they have good officers, and are prop- 
erly treated, they make good soldiers. 

This section of the country, besides being extreme- 
ly fertile, is said to abound in mineral wealth ; but 
as yet it yields them little, and that little is derived 
principally from the foreigners who now occupy the 
richest portion of the mining region. The natives 
are either too ignorant or too indolent to derive any 
more benefit from this internal wealth than the sim- 
ple two shillings per day which they receive as wages. 
They would sit and play cards all day on silver stone, 
and not know it. 

After a hard march of six days we arrived at Q,ue- 
retaro. Here we found some five or six Americans, 
prisoners of war, who had been here some months. 
They were taken by Greneral Canales, of whom I 
have before spoken, and who, by-the-way, had been 
appointed major general in the Mexican army. Be- 



IN MEXICO. 81 

ing so few, tliey had received much better treatment 
than we. 

At this place we were allowed the freedom of the 
city ; and, after a few days, we had liberty to go 
where and when we wished. But at first no provi- 
sions nor money was given us ; and I, for one, was 
so hard pressed with hunger, that I would pick up 
orange-skins and old tortillas out of the gutters in the 
streets, and eat them with a relish. "We now, for the 
first time since our capture, had sufficient water and 
time to wash our clothes, during a period (as near as 
I can remember) of about two months. So thick was 
the dirt on our clothes that their original colors could 
not be discerned, and we were literally covered with 
vermin ; indeed, our appearance was very revolting. 
For want of a barber, our hair and beards had grown 
to a great length ; and in this miserable plight, with- 
out jackets, and nearly all of us without hats or shoes, 
we paraded round* the capital of the state of Quere- 
taro. At length our miserable appearance excited 
the sympathies of a few of the citizens. Some were 
supplied with blankets ; to others, clothes, shoes, and 
other necessary articles were presented. One day, 
as I was passing along one of the raain streets, I was 
called into a house, and furnished with a pair of 
pantaloons, shoes, and a shirt, and about twenty hats 
to supply myself and my comrades, so far as they 
would go. As I had been bareheaded long enough, 
a hat was very acceptable, as, indeed, was every thing 
else. 

After some four or five days, they again gave us our 
two shillings, on which we lived very comfortably. 



82 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

The city is situated in a large valley, and is regu- 
larly laid out in squares. It contains two public 
squares, in one of v^hich is a large fountain. The 
water that supplies it is brought three miles in an 
aqueduct, which supplies the whole city. This great 
work was begun and executed by an American. The 
buildings on the main streets are large and well fin- 
ished, and the public edifices are the most splen- 
did of any I saw in Mexico, except those of Gruada- 
lajara. The interior of their churches is richly orna- 
mented with gold and silver ; and the walls are or- 
namented with paintings executed by some of the 
great masters, and seeming to breathe the breath of 
life. It is their custom to go to church and say 
mass every morning. During service they all kneel, 
both from reverence and necessity, as there are no 
seats in any of their churches. It is a universal cus- 
tom here, as in every part of Mexico, when meeting 
a priest, to take off their hats. To this custom we 
did not conform ; on the contrary, if we met a priest 
on the sidewalk, we had not even manners enough 
to turn out for him to pass ; and, as a natural conse- 
quence, he was forced to give us the walk. 

The squares are used as a market-place ; and every 
evening, and all day on Sundays, they are filled with 
people, some selling, and others buying, every thing 
that grows in that country. A great variety of man- 
ufactured articles also are there exposed for sale ; 
and in every part hucksters may be seen vending all 
kinds of victuals, ready cooked, by the claco's-worth 
(one cent and a half). On one side of the city is a 
large park, containing some ten acres, most beauti- 



IN MEXICO. 83 

fully laid out ; in the center is a large and splendid 
fountain, and around this, at a distance of about 
twenty feet, are several seats, capable of accommo- 
dating two hundred persons. From this central point 
graveled walks extend to every part. The whole is 
inclosed with a stone wall, the entrances being guard- 
ed by an iron gateway. There is also a cotton fac- 
tory near the city, conducted by some Englishmen, 
which appeared to be doing a heavy business. 

Just in the very heart of the city is a convent, the 
largest I ever saw, occupying an entire square. From 
the outside it appeared to be a massy wall ; windows 
and doors there were none, and but two entrances, 
secured by large and massive gates. Of its arrange- 
ment in the interior I know nothing, as we were not 
permitted to enter, although hosts of holy fathers 
could be seen jpassing in and out at all times of the 
day, and possibly of the night. 

' About this time occurred one of their religious fes- 
tivals, which lasted several days. Day and night 
processions were marching through the streets, with 
martial music, some of which could not have been 
less than three miles long. At the head marched a 
priest, carrying a golden cross and Christ. When 
this passed, the spectators all took off their hats, and 
many knelt down, repeating their Ave Marias, and I 
know not what else. In the night they carried torch- 
lights, and also images of a ghastly and horrid ap- 
pearance, which personated the Jews. During the 
marching of the procession, all the bells of the city 
were kept ringing ; so that, between the noise of the 
bells, and the loud praying and singing of this great 



84 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

mass of zealots, a noise was made that would rival 
old Bedlam. 

The last night of the performance was to end in 
burning the Jews in effigy. This we did not see, as 
the officers thought that the religious excitement of 
the populace might get so high as to endanger our 
safety; and so we were conffiied in the jail. The 
liberty which v/e had so long enjoyed was now draw- 
ing to a close ; the change originated thus : One day 
one of our number was reading a Testament, which 
we had succeeded in bringing along. The captain 
of the guard discovered this book, flew into a terri- 
ble passion, took it away, threw it on the ground, 
stamped on it with his feet, and shook his sword at 
us, cursing and swearing roundly at us ; but it was all 
Grreek to us, not a word could we understand. From 
this day forth our liberty was taken away. "When 
this man was on guard, he treated us with great se- 
verity, not allowing us even to exercise in the yard. 

Such useless severity induced us to make an at- 
tempt to escape and go to Yera Cruz, having heard 
that G-eneral Scott had taken that place. There was 
among the officers taken with us one who had for- 
merly been a prisoner for two years during the war 
between Texas and Mexico. He understood their 
language thoroughly. Under his guidance we de- 
termined to make the attempt. All the officers had 
still the liberty of the city, and through them we ob- 
tained all the requisite information as to where we 
could obtain a sufficiency of horses, arms, &c. We 
ascertained that the main body of troops had left for 
the city of Mexico ; consequently we had little to fear 



IN MEXICO. 85 

from tliem. Attached to the jail was an arsenal, and 
just across the yard was an armorer's shop. In these 
two places we were in hopes of getting arms suffi- 
cient for our whole number. The day of trial was 
at length fixed ; it was to be when the old tyrant who 
had deprived us of our liberty was on guard, for we 
wished to settle up with him before we bid good-by 
to our old friends of Queretaro. 

At last it came. As soon as the old guard went 
away and the new one was stacking their arms, we 
rushed into the arsenal, secured the arms, and found 
that not more than half could be supplied. We then 
went into the shop, but there was not enough. By 
this time the guard was alarmed, and an express was 
sent off for re-enforcements. In about two minutes 
it came, and halted in front of the quartel. Two 
companies were marched into the yard in front of 
where we were standing. The commanding officer 
ordered us to lay down our arms : we hesitated. He 
ordered his men to fire. There we stood, in front of 
near two hundred men, with their loaded guns point- 
ing directly at us. Again he ordered us to lay down 
our arms, when, thinking it was fool-hardiness to per 
severe, we did so. 

They now put us into separate cells, and no lon- 
ger allowed us the liberty of the yard. "We after* 
ward discovered that some two thousand soldiers had 
come into the city, of which we had heard nothing ; 
and thus our attempt failed. Our treatment now was 
extremely severe. So many were crowded into these 
small cells that room could not be had to lie down 
to sleep, and we were forced to sit, leaning against 



86 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

the walls. There were no windows ; consequently, 
all the light and air we had came in through the 
cross-bars in the door : through these a miserable 
pittance of food was given us once a day. Again 
we were reduced to nearly a starving condition, and 
annoyed almost to death by the vermin that con- 
stantly assailed us, and from which there was no pro- 
tection. 

Our sufferings proved too much for many of us, 
for almost daily some were carried to the hospital, 
being too sick to take care of themselves. I was also 
taken sick ; but, as I could contrive to stand up, I 
would not go to the hospital. I was the more anx- 
ious to remain with the rest, as we were informed 
that in a few days we should move on to Mexico, 
and I desired to go with them. I was daily growing 
worse, but I was determined not to yield. 

In a day or two we started, and I went with them, 
staggering at every step from weakness, and my com- 
rades supporting me on each side. In this way I 
went a couple of miles, when the commanding offi- 
cer, seeing my condition, placed me on a mule. The 
first day I got along very well ; but the second, I was 
so sick and weak that they were forced to hold me 
on. I continued to grow worse and worse, and at 
length I became delirious. Of the latter part of that 
day's march I know nothing. 

We that day stopped at San Juan del Rio, where 
I was left in the hospital. As I parted from my com- 
rades, they came to me, shook hands, and bade me 
good-by . This was the last of my recollection ; nor 
did I come to mvself sufficientlv to know where I was 



IN MEXICO. 87 

until four weeks afterward. This period I must pass 
over. The first that I recollect, a man and woman 
were at my bedside, urging me to take a dish of at- 
tale. This I disliked, and therefore I refused. They 
urged and urged, but still I refused ; and, as they 
continued to urge me, I took the dish from their hands 
and dashed it on the floor, and went without my sup- 
per. 

From this time I perceived that I slowly recovered. 
I was reduced to a mere skeleton ; my fingers seemed 
to be six inches long ; and clothes that before my 
sickness fitted me tight, now would go nearly twice 
around me. I was visited daily by the doctor, and 
several priests, and ladies and gentlemen also, who 
appeared to be of the higher circles of society. In 
the course of three weeks I was able to walk about ; 
but, being unable to converse with those around me, 
or they with me, I was dumb, and nothing could 
arouse my naturally lively feelings. I even wished 
that, from my sick-bed, I had been carried to my 
grave, so hopeless appeared my prospects. 

Beside the hospital was a church, where mass was 
said every morning, commencing before daylight. 
After church many would come to see me. Some 
gave me money ; and the kindness I received here in 
part reconciled m_e to my fate. All seemed anxious 
to lessen the weight of my afflictions. As soon as I 
was able to walk out, the doctor gave me an invita- 
tion to go to his house. The hospital steward was 
to accompany me, and one of his own servants was 
to come with me back to the hospital. Accordingly, 
in the afternoon I went up to his house. He received 



88 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

me very cordially, and before sitting down, inquired 
which I would have, coffee or chocolate. I did not 
wish for either at the time ; but thinking that this 
was a customary mode of treating visitors, I replied 
chocolate, being determined not to betray any igno- 
rance of their manners and customs. 

After this he got some books, and came and sat 
down by me. He showed me an English and Span- 
ish grammar and dictionary. He was trying to learn 
our language ; and his wishes were, that I should 
teach him, and, in return, he would teach me Span- 
ish. This offer I gladly accepted ; and our inter- 
course was carried on by means of writing and trans- 
lation. 

In the course of three months the doctor could 
speak our language so as to be easily understood, and 
his instruction was certainly a great benefit to me. 
I went daily to his house ; and in the morning, when 
he came to see the sick in the hospital, he would re- 
main to converse with me two or three hours. I 
found him to be a man of education, and, for a 
Catholic, possessed of liberal principles. One day 
he asked me if I understood arithmetic, geography, 
and grammar. I told him I did. At this he seemed 
surprised ; for, among the majority of Mexicans, the 
Americans are considered as ignorant and unlettered ; 
in fact, they are looked upon as a nation of barbari- 
ans. It was, therefore, a matter of some surprise to 
him to hear of rail-roads on which we might travel 
ten and fifteen leagues an hour, and of a telegraph, 
by which one might transmit messages any distance 
and receive a reply in a few moments. One day, 



IN MEXICO. 89 

when at his house, on looking over some hooks, I 
found one in the Greek language. I opened it, and 
hegan reading. On seeing this he was utterly amazed. 
That a foreigner, and an American too, should under- 
stand Grreek, was almost impossihle. He, however, 
helieved the evidence of his senses, and asked if I 
understood Latin also. I replied that I did. 

From that time forth the doctor was my firm and 
fast friend. He took me to see a priest, hy the name 
of Julian Miranda, a wealthy and influential man. 
By the two I was taken to visit several of their most 
distinguished families, hy whom I was treated with 
marked respect. From this time forward I was a 
popular man, and, heing under the protection of two 
such prominent persons, none durst puhlicly molest 
me. During the eight months that I remained here, 
I was treated hy the well-hred with marked kindness, 
hut hy the lower classes I was occasionally misused. 
My life was threatened, and once even attempted. It 
occurred as follows. While I was yet confined to the 
hospital, and so weak that I could scarcely walk, a 
man came in and passed me two or three times, and 
then addressed me. Not understanding him, I made 
no reply. He hecame greatly excited, drew his knife, 
seized me hy the hair, and appeared as though he was 
going to plunge it into my heart. But, hefore he 
could accomplish his murderous intention, the stew- 
ard came in, forcihly thrust him from the hospital, 
and closed all the doors. By his timely appearance 
I was saved from destruction. 

To illustrate the feeling of the lower classes toward 
me, I will relate some other circumstances. After I 



90 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

was able to go out, a mob several times collected 
around me, abused me with all sorts of vile language, 
and even threw clods of dirt and stones at me. All 
this I passed over, as I was hot in a condition to 
resent it. But it was remembered, and afterward 
paid with interest ; for, when I became sufficiently 
strong, I prepared myself with a good and heavy 
oaken staff. With this I boldly went where I was 
most likely to meet with these cowardly ruffians, 
and, should any one presume to interfere with me, I 
was sure to belabor him with my cane until I was 
perfectly satisfied. By this means I not unfrequent- 
ly got into scrapes that I had not bargained for ; but 
by good luck and a little hard fighting, I got safely 
out, though occasionally I bore the marks of the knife 
or bruises from a club. 

Once, when attending a funeral, on my return in 
company with a few young friends, a crowd follow- 
ed in the rear. When in one of the back streets and 
far from any dwelling house, a stone was tlirown at 
me, which hit me in the back. I turned around and 
inquired who had thrown it. No answer was return- 
ed. My friends said they would stand by me. I 
then picked up a large stone weighing some twenty 
pounds, went into the midst of the crowd, and de- 
manded who had thrown the stone at me. At this 
appearance of determination they became frightened, 
and forthwith pointed to the man who had done it. 
I stepped up to him, raised the stone over his head, 
and brought it down with all the force I could mus- 
ter. The blow completely stunned him ; he fell like 
a log. I then began to beat the rest over their heads 



IN MEXICO. 91 

with my cane ; and as no resistance was made, being 
deprived of their ringleader, they soon ran like a flock 
of sheep. 

This adventure established my character among 
them as a desperate man, and, in consequence, they 
were afterward more cautious how they molested me. 
So great was their dread of me, that, when meeting 
them, they would turn off and give me the sidewalk. 
I now feared an attack in the night, and consequently 
remained in doors. 

One day Father Miranda came to the hospital, and 
asked me if the clothes I had on were all I had. On 
being answered affirmatively, he said that if I would 
go to his house with him, he would give me some 
new ones. As mine were nearly gone, of course I 
went, and he gave me a pair of new shoes, panta- 
loons, shirts, a hat, and coat. In short, he dressed 
me up as well as he was himself, and gave me some 
money. After this he continued to give me some oc- 
casionally as long as I stayed there. 

My daily rations were not cooked in the hospital, 
but were brought to me — I know not whence — three 
times a day, and dealt out with what I considered a 
very sparing hand. Some chocolate, about a gill, or 
some sour orange-leaf tea, and a small piece of bread, 
was my allowance for breakfast; for dinner, about 
half a pint of beef soup, a small piece of meat, and 
three or four tortillas, was all that I was allowed. 
The supper was the same as my breakfast. For a 
Mexican, this, in ordinary circumstances, would have 
been sufficient, as they are very small eaters ; but 
for me, after my long fasting and sickness, it was 



92 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

barely sufficient to keep soul and body together. But 
the deficiency v^as supplied in part by occasional re- 
ceipts of money. 

I continued my visits to the doctor's, and in one of 
these visits he asked v^hat was my trade or profes- 
sion. He seemed anxious to do something for me 
that v7ould be of permanent utility, as, from all ap- 
pearance, my residence among them was to be a long 
one. The steward in the hospital was a shoe-maker, 
and worked at his trade when not otherwise engaged. 
I worked with him until I became tolerably expert 
at that business ; in fact, I could make a passable 
shoe. I therefore told the doctor of this, and also that 
if a little money was furnished me, I would undertake 
to support myself by this kind of work. He then gave 
me two dollars, with which I purchased materials and 
commenced work. The first I made were women's 
shoes. I worked up all my stock and then sold it. 
On striking a balance, I found that my work netted 
me just three cents per day. This interesting dis- 
covery rather discouraged me in my attempt to ob- 
tain money in this way. I then undertook to make 
men's shoes. For fear of the worst, I first engaged 
a pair, bought the stock, and then made them. These 
were finished off so as to look tolerably well ; but 
they were so poorly made that they did not wear two 
weeks. I made another pair, but could not sell them, 
so I kept them on hand a long time. At last fortune 
favored me, for one day I found in the public square 
a man selling shirts. This was just what I needed ; 
so I plied him with liquor until he was, as the sailor's 
say, three sheets in the wind, then took him down to 



IN MEXICO. \jo 

the hospital, and gave him the shoes for a good, new 
shirt. Thus ended my effort at shoe-making. 

About this time, some of the prisoners who had 
been left at Queretaro came tlirough on their way to 
Mexico, the rest having died. Why I was not sent 
along with them I can not say. I called on the of- 
ficer commanding in that city, and earnestly entreat- 
ed for permission to go, but it was in vain. I al- 
most every day heard of the progress of Greneral 
Scott. The news of the battles of Huamantla, Cerro 
Grordo, and Contreras was rapidly spread through 
the country. The bulletins were boastful, and full 
of misrepresentation. They would tell of the defeat 
and flight of the Americans, and the next day would 
come the news of the further advance of Scott. Fi- 
nally we heard of the investment of the capital. But 
I am getting ahead of my story. 

I will now give a description of San Juan del Eio. 
It contains about five thousand inhabitants. There 
is but one street that can be properly called a street ; 
the rest are narrow, like alleys or lanes. The city is 
on one side bounded by a river, which in the dry sea- 
son is so low that one might walk across on the stones 
without wetting his shoes ; but in the rainy season 
I have known the water to rise five feet in one hour. 
It frequently overflows its banks, and forms a per- 
fect sea. The part next to the river is protected by 
a thick and solid wall. The city is built without 
any regard to order or regularity, each one building 
where it best suits his fancy ; consequently the streets 
are narrow and very crooked. The houses are made 
of adobe, or unburned brick. These adobes are made 



94 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

in the form of brick, about eighteen inches long, ten 
wide, and three thick, dried in the sun ; and when 
of sufficient hardness, they are put into the walls 
forming the house. The length of the adobe forms 
the thickness of the wall. 

The roofs are generally covered with a sort of reed, 
and made sufficiently steep to carry off the water. 
The houses of the rich are covered with burned brick, 
and thickly plastered over, both inside and out, with 
cement, which renders them impervious to water. 
The roof is made slightly to descend, just enough to 
carry off the water. The rooms are generally rather 
destitute of furniture, containing only a bed and some 
benches to sit on, chairs being a luxury which only 
the rich can afford. Tables are not in common use. 
"When eating, the people sit down on the ground, take 
their dishes on their lap, and eat with their tortillas 
and spoons, knives and forks being rarely used. Tor- 
tillas are made of Indian corn. It is first soaked in 
weak lye for a few hours to remove the shells, then 
mashed or ground up fine, then kneaded with the 
hands until it is like a common pancake ; it is then 
baked on an earthen griddle. If eaten when warm, 
it is very good. This is all the bread the poorer class- 
es have, and it is likewise used by the rich twice a 
day. Some women support themselves by making 
tortillas to sell ; they can be seen in the Plaza every 
hour in the day, with their baskets under their re- 
basas or shawls, crying their tortillas. =^ 

In almost every part of the city are large gardens, 

* The preceding paragraph would apply to other Mexican towns 
as well as to San Juan. 



m MEXICO. 95 

sometimes occupymg four or five acres, in which all 
kinds of fruit are cultivated, such as apples, pears, 
cherries, grapes, figs, plantains, granadas, and nu- 
merous other kinds, both of tropical and temperate 
productions. I have been invited many a time to go 
into these gardens and eat fruit, accompanied, too, by 
some of the great people of San Juan. Indeed, so 
much in favor had I grown with the wealthier class- 
es, that they have offered to advance me capital suf- 
ficient to go into business, on condition that I would 
renounce my country and become a citizen of Mex- 
ico ; and they often expressed a determination to keep 
me there after the war closed. 

At this time, one of the priests, by the name of 
Romero, had a fandango (or, in common parlance, a 
ball), to which a large party was invited. I went 
in, and as soon as I entered, before I could take my 
seat, a bottle of excellent wine was handed me. I 
drank some, and then sat down to hear theu' music 
and see the dancing. The music I did not admire 
much ; but the dancing was beautiful, so graceful 
and light they seemed not to touch the floor. Some 
of the ladies were dressed with a splendor that I 
never before saw equaled. The wine was again pass- 
ed round, and this was repeated so often that I be- 
came rather foggy, and I thought some of the rest 
were so too ; for soon a young priest, who had just 
taken orders, thinking to show off a little learning, 
sat himself down by me, and began to question me 
on my religious principles. He asked me first if I 
was a Catholic. I told him yes. " Do you believe 
in the Trinity ?" ^^ Ye;?.'^ ^^ Do you believe in the 



96 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

mystery of the Yir gin ?" ''Yes." '' Do you believe 
in the doctrine of transubstantiation ?" I replied, 
'' I do not understand you," although I understood 
him perfectly V7ell. He then put the question in an- 
other form ; still I could not understand him, and 
still he persevered in his endeavors to make me an- 
swer. But, failing m all, he got out of patience, and 
in an angry manner arose, pointed his finger, and 
shaking it in an emphatic manner, said, ''You are a 
Protestant." Being heated wdth w^ine, and therefore 
easily excited, I arose, and in an angry and defiant 
tone declared I was a Protestant, and added that I 
was a prisoner of war, and the Mexican government 
was bound to protect me, and dared them to touch a 
hair of my head. I know not what might have been 
said further had not my friend. Priest Miranda, at 
this instant come up, and said that he wished us to 
be friends, and retain no hard feelings. He then 
brought the wine, turned out some in glasses, gave 
me one, and insisted on our drinking to our mutual 
friendship. I took the proffered glass, but with the 
fu*m determination of giving them another blow. He 
drank his glass off; I raised mine to my lips, and 
said, " Here is success to the armies of the United 
States, hoping that peace will not be made until the 
whole of Mexico is annexed." I then put down my 
glass, and said, " This, ladies and gentlemen, is the 
toast that I drink ; how do you like it ?" I looked 
around, as though waiting for an answer, but no re- 
ply was made; all were too much surprised at my 
boldness to make any. I soon saw that I had gone 
too far ; and, thinking that my absence was better 



IN MEXICO. 97 

than my company, I took my hat and left. None op- 
posed my departure. As soon as I got into the street, 
fearing a pursuit, I ran with all speed to the hospi- 
tal, a distance of one mile. I hurried into my room, 
and barricaded it from the inside, to prevent a forci- 
ble entrance, should any be attempted. I remained 
here till the next morning, when I was awakened by 
the steward, who had brought me my breakfast ; soon 
after which the young priest, accompanied by the doc- 
tor and priest Miranda, came to the hospital to ar- 
range the difficulty between us. We both acknowl- 
edged ourselves too hasty, and a little too much ex- 
cited with wme, &c., and so the matter dropped. It 
was soon noised abroad that we were reconciled, after 
which I was in just as good favor as ever. 

During the time of which I am now speaking, a 
portion of the Mexican army passed through San Juan 
on their way to Mexico. Ten thousand passed one 
day, and ten thousand the next, under the command 
of Grenerals Valencia and Rincon. The former com- 
manded the infantry ; the latter, jointly with Torre- 
jon, the cavalry. Both were subsequently killed at 
Mexico. Valencia was a good and meritorious officer ; 
E-incon was a noted coward ; and Torrejon was known 
as a robber^ and distinguished for his gasconade and 
cowardly conduct on the field of battle. The wealth 
and influence of Eincon and Torrejon were boundless, 
and therefore they could not be deprived of their com- 
mand. Santa Arma, also, has been accused of being 
leagued with some of the most noted bandit leaders ; 
he is said to have given them information where and 
when a successful blow could be struck, and then 

E 



98 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

gave them commissions in the army, he having a cer- 
tain share of the plunder in consideration of his in- 
formation and protection. This was said to have oc- 
curred when he was president ; and in this manner 
they accounted for his vast wealth. This statement 
I saw in one of the leading journals of Gruadalajara, 
and never saw it contradicted ; I therefore have so 
much reason to believe it is true, 

Santa Anna first entered the army as second lieu- 
tenant under G-eneral Mijia, if I am not mistaken in 
the name. This man discovered in him superior tal- 
ent, and took immediate measures to secure his pro- 
motion. From this he rapidly rose until he became 
general ; and finally, by the influence of the army 
alone, he became president. When in the chair, he 
caused to be tried and shot, for some trifle, that friend 
who had made him what he was. It was also boldly 
said, at the time I was in Mexico, that when he re- 
ceived any money to pay the troops, he first liberally 
paid himself, then handed the balance of the money 
to his officers, who paid themselves in the same way, 
and out of the small remnant paid the soldiers, who 
actually never received one quarter of their regular 
pay. It was also said that Santa Anna was in the 
habit of embezzling one half, at least, of the public 
money that came into his hands : that he attempted 
to rob the churches in the city of Mexico is matter 
of history. It was this which caused that tremen- 
dous excitement against him which ended in his 
downfall and ultimate expulsion from Mexico after 
its capture. 

At San Juan I saw an officer, holding the rank of 



IN MEXICO. 99 

captain, who was a noted robber ; his name is Thomas 
Gronsalez. I was told by some of the San Patricio^ 
company that this man owned two large blocks of 
houses in San Luis Potosi, all of which he had ac- 
cumulated by robbery ; and they related some inci- 
dents of an expedition in which they had borne a part. 
After the battle of Buena Yista, when the Mexican 
army had returned to San Luis, this Gronsalez obtain- 
ed a commission from the governor to select twelve 
of this company, and go back to Saltillo on a robbing 
expedition. The governor was to clothe and arm the 
men, and have one half of the proceeds. According- 
ly, they started, and in every town they came to they 
robbed. The terror of their leader's name (for he 
was well known) produced instant obedience to all 
his wishes. In going to Saltillo and back it took 
them six weeks, during which time they cleared some 
six thousand dollars, exclusive of their heavy outlays. 
The cavalry under Rincon was really a good-look- 
ing body of men ; they were well armed, well clothed , 
and well mounted. In fact, had I not seen them on 
previous occasions, I should have supposed them to 
be rather a formidable body of men to encounter. 
They had with them some twenty pieces of heavy 
artillery, all of which eventually feU into G-eneral 
Scott's hands. With them was the San Patricio com- 
pany, commanded by Captain Riley, who is now a 
general in their service. Lieutenant Stevenson, for- 
merly a private in the eighth regiment of our in- 

* These men were deserters from the American army, and joined 
the Mexicans. Some had received commissions ; but the majority 
were worse off than brutes. They numbered two hundred. 



100 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

fantry, was one of these ; he v^ore an officer's uni- 
form ; but so seldom did he see any of his pay with 
which to clothe himself, that he was quite ragged, and 
his shoes were almost completely worn out. Dearly 
did he pay for the whistle ; for he was despised by 
the Mexican officers, those especially who made any 
pretensions to being gentlemen, and in the battle of 
Buena Yista he was unfortunate enough to lose his 
right arm. The whole of this company were in a 
most miserable condition. They rested here two days, 
and then passed on. 

I now began to hear of the progress of Scott ; that 
in all the battles fought between Yera Cruz and Mex- 
ico, the Americans had been successful ; and also 
that they had now invested the city. But the Mexi- 
cans, having forces so greatly superior to ours in 
numbers, were most sanguine as to the ultimate re- 
sult. Daily expresses came, bearing intelligence of 
the progress of the war. The first news was favor- 
able to our arms ; then came the news that Scott 
was forced to retreat. This was received with uni- 
versal joy. All the bells of the city began to ring, 
rockets were fired, and an intense excitement pre- 
vailed all day. Many of the citizens came to see me, 
and asked what I thought of that. "Very valiant 
are the Mexicans," said they. My reply was, "Yes, 
very, since Greneral Taylor, with four thousand five 
hundred men, defeated and completely routed twenty- 
two thousand of Santa Anna's best troops." I also 
referred them to Monterey, and the battles of the 
"^eighth and ninth of May, for further proof of the valor 
/of the Mexican soldiers. I also added, that if the 



IN MEXICO. 101 

Americans retreated, it was simply to gain a new posi- 
tion, as they never could be driven — a statement 
which subsequently proved to be correct. This lan- 
guage set rather firmly ; they doubted, and offered 
to bet. This I had no money to do ; but I offered to 
bet that which was of infinitely more consequence to 
me, viz., my ultimate liberation. I offered to wager 
my liberty against one hundred dollars. If they lost, 
the money was mine ; if I lost, I was to be no more 
subject to exchange, but should remain with them 
for life. This was a queer offer on my part, but I 
was confident of winning. They declined my offer, 
but turned and walked off, cursing the Yankees. 

The next day another express came in, bringing 
news of the capture of some of the most important 
points of their defensive works, the rout of their cav- 
alry, &c., &c. This news made them look rather 
crest-fallen ; no bells were rung, and no rockets were 
fired ; groups of men might be seen around every 
corner, with consternation depicted in their counte- 
nances, conversing on the subject of their calamities, 
and wondering where and when the victorious career 
of our army would terminate. They daily expected 
that Scott would follow up his victory by marching 
to Queretaro, where no means of defense existed. In 
fact, no defense could be made at any point ; another 
army could not be collected. On the one already de- 
feated and dispersed hung all their hopes. In a few 
days came news -of the capture of the city. It was 
now my turn to rejoice, and I did so to my heart's 
content ; for, taking what money I had, I bought 
some rockets and fired them nearly all day. Every 



102 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

one knew for what I did this, but no one molested liie. 
This was to me the proudest day of my life : I gloried 
in being an American, although a prisoner. In a few 
days the news was oiSicially published in the papers 
in Mexico, which contained also the treaty for the 
exchange of prisoners, in which both parties were 
bound to give up all they held. 

Parts of the Mexican army began to return ; strag- 
gling bands, parties of a few hundred, came in every 
day, under no order or discipline whatever. In the 
course of four or five days, five thousand passed 
through, the officers looking gloomy and crest-fallen ; 
some appeared to feel as though it was a disgrace to 
be a Mexican officer. Last of all came the Mexican 
Congress ; they had abandoned their capital, and were 
now going to Queretaro to hold a session. But Santa 
Anna was not with them. I inquired where he was ; 
they replied that he was going to Vera Cruz to leave 
the country ; curses, loud and deep, were heaped on his 
head, and the excitement of the citizens ran very high 
against him. Could he have been found, it was their 
firm and expressed determination to kill him. I was 
told that in the capital they carried stones in their 
hands for that purpose ; but the object of their fury 
was safely concealed in a corn-field hard by the city. 

Occasionally a few of the battalion of San Patricio 
would arrive ; of the two hundred, fifty did not now 
remain, large numbers being taken prisoners by the 
Americans, and as deserters, tried and executed. The 
few that did remain were formed into a body-guard, 
and retained in the service of the commander-in-chief. 



IN MEXICO. 103 



CHAPTER V. 

I am detained after the other Prisoners have been exchanged. — Ap- 
plication to the commanding Officer. — Unsatisfactory Answer. — 
Plan, and Attempt an Escape. — Apprehended and brought back. — 
Confined in a Cell, chained and manacled. — Renewed Plans of Es- 
cape. — Frustrated by an Accident. — New Project. — This proves 
successful. — Mexican Barbarities. — Important Information obtain- 
ed. — Intestine Troubles in Mexico during the War. — Prepare for 
Traveling. — Start for the Pacific. — Arrive, by night Journeys, at 
Queretaro. — Information obtained regarding my future Route. — 
Haciendas. — Wander from the right Road. — Mode of Traveling.— 
Celaya. — Mexican Women. — Difficulties of the Journey. — Fertility 
of the Soil. — Productions. — Tobacco. — Sugar Manufacture. — 
Horse-shoeing.—Catering for Food.—Change my Mode of Travel- 
ing.— Consequent Danger. — Expedient to procure Food.— Placed 
in a Dilemma. — How relieved. — Bad EiFects of Exposure and Fa- 
tigue. — Removed by the good Offices of a Stranger. — Appearance 
and indigenous Productions of the Country. — Indications of Vol- 
canic Action. — Chapparal. — Cactuses. — Century Plant. — Homed 
Frog. 

Several days had elapsed since an exchange of 
prisoners had been made, and I was still detained. I 
determined, therefore, to ascertain the cause of this 
unjust proceeding. Accordingly, I wrote to the com- 
manding officer in that city, asking information rela- 
tive to my future destination. To this letter I re- 
ceived no answer. In a few days I wrote another, 
a copy of which follows. It was not dated, as I did 
not know the day of the month. 



104 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

"To his Honor the Commandante of S>an Juan 
del Rio. 

"Sir, — Having by the fate of war fallen into the 
military power of Mexico, myself and comrades (they 
being now in Mexico) experienced at the hands of 
our captors nothing but continued cruelty ; and not 
until my arrival at this place have I known what 
good treatment is. But I am proud to acknowledge 
that I have, during my residence in this city, with 
but few exceptions, received marked kindness from 
the hands of those who recognize in me an enemy. 
Still, sir, I need not always remain a prisoner ; and 
I am informed that a treaty has been made and en- 
tered into by and betwen General Scott on the part 
of the United States, and Santa Anna on the part of 
Mexico, in which treaty it is stipulated that all pris- 
oners held by the respective parties should be given 
up. As this is official, there is no possible room to 
doubt it. I therefore ask why I am detained, con- 
trary to the stipulations of this treaty. Is not the 
faith of Mexico pledged to its strict fulfillment ? And 
my being here now, is it not barefaced evidence of 
treachery and duplicity on her part ? 

" Sir, believing that I am asking no more than is 
my right, by the rules and regulations of war, I am 
thus bold in addressing you, having all confidence in 
your honor. I believe this to be sufficient. Should 
I receive some information regarding my destination, 
it will be considered as the greatest favor done to, 
sir, your most humble servant, 

"W.W. Carpenter." 



IN MEXICO. 105 

I sealed this letter and gave it to the doctor, who 
translated it, and gave it to the officer. In a few 
days I received a verbal answer, through my friend 
the doctor, stating that I was to remain here ; for, 
although an exchange had been made, no orders had 
yet been received to give me up, therefore I was 
to remain. But this I determined not to do. The 
idea of the possibility of making my escape was now 
forced on my mind ; and the more I thought of it, the 
more practicable it seemed. It was requisite for me, 
however, to form some plan relative to the route, 
means of support, &c. The distance to Mexico, I 
ascertained, was only one hundred and fifty miles. 
This I could easily walk in three days. By a few 
cautious inquiries, I satisfied myself as to the road I 
should keep, and what towns I should pass through. 
The risk I knew was great, but the object to be 
gained was greater. The thought of being again re- 
stored to my country, home, and friends, rose supe- 
rior to that of the risk I was running. 

I saved some little money, and one night, when all 
was silent, and not a soul was stirring, I picked up 
air my clothes and started. I got out of the city 
without being discovered, and traveled all that night, 
and next day until near noon, without stopping. Be- 
ing now very tired, I sat down on the side of a hill, 
a short distance from the road, under the shade of a 
bush, and began to eat a luncheon. I had been there 
probably half an hour, when, on looking in the di- 
rection I had come, I saw a sergeant and a file of men 
in pursuit of me. Escape was impossible, for they 
saw me at the same moment that I saw them. They 
E2 



106 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

were six to one, on horseback, and well armed, while 
I was on foot and unarmed. Had I had even a sword, 
I should have tried hard to preserve my liberty. They 
put spurs to their horses, rushed up to me, dismount- 
ed, seized and bound my hands, placed me on a horse, 
and then tied my feet round under the horse's belly. 
So tight did they tie me that I had not room or power 
to move. The man whose horse I was on then mount- 
ed in front of me, wound another rope around us both, 
thus lashing us together, and then started back to San 
Juan. 

Thus were my fondest hopes blasted in a moment. 
The prospect of freedom had made my spirits elastic ; 
but now I was conducted like a felon to the place 
from which I had come. As a matter of course, I 
expected the worst of treatment. They hurried on 
with all possible speed, constantly ridiculing me for 
the failure of my attempt, and reviving my drooping 
spirits with the prospect of being shot as soon as we 
arrived at San Juan. 

Sitting on the horse behind the saddle, and being 
lashed in such a manner that I could not move one 
way or the other, the rapid rate at which we were 
traveling almost killed me. But there was no rest 
until late at night, when we arrived at San Juan. It 
seems that I had got about fifty miles on the road 
toward Mexico. They immediately put me in jail, 
in a narrow, dark, and damp cell, where, without a 
blanket or any comfortable clothing, I was forced to 
pass a miserable night ; a sentinel stood at my door 
all night, as though the thick and massive doors and 
bige look was not enough to keep me with security. 



IN MEXICO. 107 

I verily believe they thought I was an evil spirit in 
human form. 

I passed a sleepless and dreary night, although I 
yet had plenty of company, for vermin completely 
covered me; and the next morning I was full of 
blotches and sores, from the crown of my head to the 
sole of my foot. Into this lonely cell the rays of the 
sun never entered ; perpetual darkness reigned ; and 
the only way that I knew when it was day was by 
the creaking of the lock, and the squeaking of the 
rusty hinges of the door as they opened it in the 
morning. 

I now supposed that I should be liberated ; but they 
brought me a dish of meat, and, after eating, a soldier 
came in with a chain, which they quickly fastened 
to my ankle, and then made fast to the wall. A per- 
fect load of chains and manacles was now brought, 
some fastened round my waist, and the rest round 
my wrists, and the whole made fast to the wall. 
After doing this they left me, locking the door as 
they went out. I begged them to kill me at once, 
instead of heaping injury upon injury by subjecting 
me to this load of iron. But I might as well have 
begged for mercy from fiends as from these devils in- 
carnate. Their countenances gleamed with intense 
hate, and their souls exulted in deeds of cruelty. 

Yictuals were given me but twice a day, and then 
in very small quantity. I therefore saw before me 
another prospect of starvation. I would here men- 
tion, that when I was taken this last time, the sol- 
diers took what I had, and also the clothes that I 
had not on at the time of my apprehension. Conse- 



108 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

quently I was now reduced to a miserable and pitia- 
ble condition. The irons that were put on me, they 
exultingly said, weighed thirty-six pounds. In utter 
despair did I hear their parting footsteps. My spirit 
w^as completely broken. In unutterable agony I fell 
to the earth, and in insensibility I for a time forgot 
the horrors of my situation. "When I recovered my- 
self, I prayed God that death in mercy might come 
and relieve me from this loathsome dungeon. 

In a day or two I began to take a more rational 
view of my case, and to devise means to escape. As 
I well knew that my life would be the forfeit, should 
I be detected, great caution was essential. It was 
necessary to drive away the sentinel from before my 
door, at least so far that he would not hear what I 
was doing. I tried several experiments, but all of 
them failed. As a last resort, I took the pitcher in 
which they put the water for me to drink, filled it 
with the filth of my cell, watched my opportunity, 
threw it on him, and completely besmeared him from 
head to foot. One or two more applications of this 
kind induced him to keep at some little distance 
from my door. This was just what I desired. 

I now set to work to divest myself from my irons, 
particularly my hands ; the operation was extremely 
painful, as I was forced to contract my hands so as 
to enable me to slip the irons over them. After two 
or three days' trial I at length succeeded, but in 
doing so I nearly stripped them of their covering. 
To divert the attention of persons from the noise made 
by the chains, I kept up a sort of singing ; by this 
they were completely deceived ; and as no one ever 



IN MEXICO. 109 

came into the cell to examine my irons, I was in no 
fear of detection from that source. Having disen- 
gaged one hand, I made use of the bolt which had 
secured it, and which was about ten inches long, to 
bend the irons of the other so as to enable me to 
slip it oif and on at pleasure. In this I was suc- 
cessful. Now both hands were at liberty. I also 
succeeded in getting the chain from off my waist ; 
this I did by twisting a link and breaking it. With 
the bolts I pried the staple from the wall. I was 
now, comparatively speaking, at liberty. 

My dungeon was an outside cell, and by digging 
through the wall next the yard, egress could be had. 
The exact situation of the jail and the back yard I 
became acquainted with during the time that I had 
the liberty of the city. This knowledge I was now 
in hopes of putting to good use. Surrounding the 
yard was a wall some ten feet high. On one side of 
the yard, and next the wall, were the remains of an 
old house not quite so high as the yard wall ; by this 
I hoped to mount to the top, and gain the street. 
When I had mounted this, my only resource was to 
jump down and make the best of my way oiF. I 
still determined to go to Mexico, though by another 
route than the one I formerly took. 

This plan being settled, I now began to dig a hole 
through the wall. I would here remark that the sen- 
try had been withdrawn, and this afforded me a bet- 
ter chance to act. The wall, being made of adobe, 
was not very solid ; yet, as I had no sharp tools, the 
work was very slow. I succeeded, however, in dig- 
ging nearly through, and in two more days would 



110 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

have accomplished it, but for an unfortunate acci- 
dent. It seems that some noise had been heard, suf- 
ficient, at least, to excite suspicion that all was not 
right. Accordingly, one day the jailer came in with 
his guard and examined my irons. Judge what his 
astonishment must have been on finding me freed 
from them all except those around my feet. My work 
in the wall he did not discover, probably owing to the 
darkness of the room. However, he sent for a black- 
smith, who came and riveted them on again, and then 
bored a hole through one of the posts beside the door, 
and riveted the end of the chain through that ; then 
he exultingly said that if I now broke them loose or 
got them off my hands, he would take my place. 

In this manner was my second project defeated. I 
now began to contrive a third project ; but how to be- 
gin or what to do, I did not exactly know. I was 
satisfied, however, that if I was once out of this ac- 
cursed hole, half of the work would be done, and I 
would eventually succeed in escaping from them. I 
also became well satisfied that stratagem alone was 
required to effect this object. The jailer now entered 
my cell twice a day, examined my irons, and left my 
victuals and water. I determined to make this cir- 
cumstance serve my purpose ; I feigned sickness, and 
left untouched the food that he brought me. This I 
did two days, when, being alarmed lest I should die, 
he sent word to the commandante that I was in a 
dying condition. The doctor was then sent to visit 
me. By his orders I was removed to another room, 
my irons taken off, and a bundle of straw was given 
me to lie on. 



IN MEXICO. Ill 

By my sufferings in this jail I was again reduced 
almost to a skeleton ; but, under the doctor's care, I 
soon recovered my former healthy state. I now urged 
him to procure my liberation, promising almost any 
thing that would be required in order to obtain it. 
He made no direct reply, but soon went out. My 
main object in wishing to get the doctor here was to 
exert himself in my behalf. 

The next day the doctor returned with the com- 
mandante and Priest Miranda. Several questions 
were asked of me relative to my motives in running 
away, &c., to all of which I gave correct answers. 
I was then informed that if I would take an oath to 
make no more attempts to go to Mexico, I might be 
set at liberty. This was a dead set ; however, I de- 
termined to take it ; it was administered, and I was 
set at liberty. At the same time, orders were given 
me to report myself every night at sunset to the com- 
mandante. 

I stepped forth once more a free man, but fired 
with feelings of deadly vengeance for my cruel and 
unjust confinement for the crime of trying to regain 
my liberty, an act which any man would have done 
in my situation. Besides, I was robbed of the small 
quantity of clothes that I had been able to procure. 
All this was as money lent, and I determined that 
not one cent should be lost. 

Quarters were again assigned me in the hospital, 
and I remained quite peaceable for a few days, not 
knowing which way to turn myself. About this time 
a detachment of cavalry, the same that Santa Anna 
had taken as his escort, passed through San Juan ; but 



112 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

they had deserted from their commander, and left 
him to find his way to Vera Cruz alone, and in the 
hest manner he could. The officer v^ho wsls second 
in command I recognized as one that was with G-en- 
eral Urrea at the time I was taken prisoner. I con- 
versed with him some time, during which he related 
several barharities that the Mexican soldiers had com- 
mitted on that sanguinary field. He said that after 
our surrender, and the burning of the wagons, &c., 
they rode over the field, cut the hearts out of the 
dead bodies of some of our soldiers, and hung them 
on the bushes. Some who were wounded, and yet 
alive, had their eyes dug out and stuck in their 
wounds ; others were mutilated in a shocking man- 
ner. In this horrible procedure they were not check- 
ed by their commanding officers. 

This barbarous manner of carrying on war so dis- 
gusted this officer that he made application to his 
government to be put in another command, a request 
which was granted ; and he was accordingly trans- 
ferred to a command under Torrejon. He was from 
one of the first families of Mexico ; his father had 
once been president, but had died some years be- 
fore. He spoke English well, and had been educa- 
ted at Cincinnati, Ohio. He said that he was then 
going to G-uadalajara, and thence to G-uanahuato. I 
then asked him how far the former place was from 
the Pacific coast. He replied, ninety leagues. I then 
asked the names of some of the most important places 
between San Juan and that city. He named them ; 
and I obtained from him additional information rela- 
tive to the route to be taken to get there. I made 



IN MEXICO. 113 

these inquiries, because, while conversing with him, 
the idea of getting to the Pacific had occurred to me ; 
and I asked these questions in such a manner as not 
to excite any suspicion relative to my intentions. In 
fact, he could have had none ; for it was one of the 
most desperate attempts, I believe, that a man ever 
undertook, especially considering that it was very 
dangerous for any man to travel without a passport, 
and that it was impossible for me to get one. Some 
of the difficulties of the attempt I had calculated on, 
and so great and insurmountable did they appear that 
I partly gave it up. 

The officer above mentioned confirmed the reports 
relative to the intense excitement against Santa Anna, 
and said that, after the surrender of Mexico, he left 
with an escort of some four thousand lancers ; but, 
at the time that the officer and his division left, not 
more than one thousand remained, and his desertion 
reduced it to one half. The probability was that the 
rest would leave him in a few days. He then said 
that nearly every battle that had been fought with 
the Americans had been followed by one between 
themselves : those of the eighth and ninth of May 
were followed by a revolution at Mexico ; that of 
Monterey by one at G-uadalajara, the effects of which 
I saw when in that city ; and that of Buena Yista 
was followed by another revolution at Mexico, caused 
by Santa Anna's attempting to take the property of 
the Church wherewith to carry on the war. This the 
priests resisted; and they employed all the young 
men in the city to defend their property. They suc- 
ceeded in creating a great excitement, and enlisting 



114 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

a great many men. They fortified the city, and 
made every preparation for defense. 

At length old Santa appeared before the city, and 
matters were compromised, so that no battle was 
fought ; neither did Santa get any gold or silver be- 
longing to the Church. After the capitulation of Mex- 
ico, a quarrel and a skirmish occurred between Santa 
Anna and Valencia. 

Next morning this officer and the detachment left ; 
but he left behind him one ray of hope that I might 
yet escape, although he was unconscious of the fact. 
I daily pondered on this conversation ; and the more 
I reflected, the less seemed to be the danger and the 
difficulty. In the mean time, I began to make prep- 
arations for a start somewhere. I asked for and ob- 
tained a new suit of clothes of the priest, and bor- 
rowed some money from some of the citizens. 

I now determined to go to the Pacific ; for my oath 
bound me only as to Mexico, and not to any other 
part. Still they no doubt regarded me as released on 
parole of honor, and bound not to go to any part until 
authorized by the government ; but I considered that 
I was bound to get away, if possible, let the parole 
be what it might. I had been out of jail ten days, 
during which time I was watched somewhat closely 
throughout the day, and in the night the hospital 
doors were shut and bolted in such a manner that it 
was supposed to be impossible for me to get out. I, 
however, made the attempt, and succeeded ; and with 
my bundle of clothes I started toward Queretaro, a 
distance of fifteen leagues. As near as I could judge, 
it was about twelve at night. I traveled briskly 



IN MEXICO. 115 

until morning, when I hid myself, to lie by for the 
day. I lay concealed in a thick cluster of bushes, 
where I could see every one that passed on the road 
without myself being seen. 

During the day I saw several citizens and the com- 
mandante of San Juan pass me toward Queretaro, 
but whether in pursuit of me or not I can not say. I 
carried provisions for three days, and therefore there 
was no fear of starving for the present. As soon as it 
was dark I again commenced my journey ; I trudged 
along, through mud and mire, at a slow and tedious 
rate. The rain fell in torrents. This, combined with 
the pitchy darkness of the night, almost stopped my 
further progress. Still I persevered, and kept on un- 
til the next morning, when I again hid myself in 
the bushes. As near as I could calculate, these two 
nights I had traveled twenty miles. When I stop- 
ped, I was so completely worn out that I almost im- 
mediately fell asleep, and slept nearly all day. 

At night I again resumed my journey. It contin- 
ued raining all night, and I now began to feel stiff 
and sore. My clothes had not been dry since I first 
started; and, in fact, they were stiff with mud. 

The fourth night I came in sight of Queretaro. I 
went through the city, and up to the factory, where 
were some Englishmen, from whom I was in hopes 
of getting some assistance in procuring a passport, 
some provisions, and other things. I hid myself in 
the bushes until morning ; and as soon as they were 
out around, after breakfast, I went to some of them 
and asked a little assistance on my journey to Gua- 
dalajara. They treated me with supreme contempt, 



116 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

calling me a deserter, and other opprobrious epithets. 
An Irishman, however, was here, who took me away 
from the rest, went to his house, and gave me some- 
thing to eat. To him I related my history, and that 
my present determination was to reach the Pacific, 
get on board an American vessel or man-of-war, and 
return home. In proof of the truth of my story, I 
gave him my notes to examine, that I had kept up to 
that time. He tried to dissuade me from going, pic- 
tured the dangers of the journey, its length, &c., &c. ; 
but all this could not intimidate me. I had counted 
the cost, I said, and was prepared for any exigency 
that might occur. I then asked him if he would do 
me the favor to get me a passport under the charac- 
ter of one of the San Patricio company, for then I 
could get on safely. He replied that at the present 
time a great excitement existed against that body 
on account of the result of the late battles in Mexico, 
in consequence of which none of the company had 
been to the city for several weeks ; therefore it was 
not in the power of any of them to help me. He 
gave me much good advice, and many directions rela- 
tive to my journey ; and when it came night I took 
leave of my kind friend, contrasting in my own mind 
his conduct toward me with that of those John Bulls 
to whom I had spoken in the morning. 

After leaving the factory, I took a circuitous route, 
through the back streets of the city, to the road lead- 
ing to G-uadalajara. I this night traveled some twen- 
ty miles, and went to the mountains to rest during 
the day. The valley through which I was going was 
very level, and in the vicinity where I was, well cul- 



IN MEXICO. 117 

tivated. The inhabitants were not scattered alono* 

o 

the road, but dwelt in small villages, where the owner 
or dueiio lived. His laborers always lived in houses 
scattered around their master's. These haciendas are 
not unfrequently ten, and even fifteen miles apart. 

While in the mountains I built a fire, where I 
roasted some corn and potatoes that I took from the 
fields in the valley below. My course I knew to be 
west ; and the only way I could lay my course was 
by noticing which way the sun went down, and, when 
it was clear, looking for the north star. Even then 
I was liable to lose my track, for so many roads led 
off from the main one that I was constantly liable 
to take the wrong one. This, in fact, was the case 
two days after leaving Queretaro. The road I took 
appeared to be plainer and more traveled than the 
other, hence I concluded it was the one for me to take. 
It led off through another valley, and directly off from 
the road I wished to take. 

I, however, continued my journey ten nights, lying 
by during the day. When I came to a large town, 
I avoided it by making a circuit entirely round it, 
and coming into a road — as near as I could judge, 
the same one — on the opposite side. I continued to 
travel thus for several days longer, when one morn- 
ing I was discovered by the smoke of my fire by a 
poor ranchero. He asked me to his house, and I 
went ; he placed before me some victuals, of which 
I ate heartily. The fellow seemed kindly disposed, 
and not very inquisitive. Of him I asked the road 
to Celaya, that being one of the first towns I should 
come to after leaving Queretaro. I then told him I 



118 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

was going to Gruadalajara. He then told me of my 
mistake ; that I had taken the vi^rong road, and was 
some fifty or sixty leagues out of my way. The town 
I had passed was San Miguel, and the only way for 
me to get back on the right road wa^ to return the 
same way I came, there being no other road near 
there on account of the mountains. At all events, 
this route was the nearest for me to take. 

This was a gloomy consideration, to think that so 
much time and distance was lost, and that the dan- 
ger I had passed must be encountered again. How- 
ever, the die was cast ; it was now neck or nothing. 
My life and liberty were at stake on the one hand, 
and an ignominious death awaited me on the other. 
With these two important considerations, I cheerfully 
retraced my route. The rainy season had not yet 
passed, though it did not rain as much as formerly ; 
still, nearly every night I was wet through to the 
skin. The day, however, was usually pleasant. At 
last I reached the same valley that I should have 
kept at first, having traveled an entire month without 
gaining a single inch of headway. 

The appearance of the country that I passed 
through was pretty much the same as the parts al- 
ready described, only not quite so much cultivated, 
doubtless owing to the fact that there was less water 
to irrigate it. 

Having found the right road, I set forward with 
good courage, not in the least disheartened by my late 
misfortune. After traveling two nights I reached Ce- 
laya. This town I passed through just after dark, 
having been concealed in sight of it all day. I found 



IN MEXICO. 119 

it quite a large and beautiful town ; I made no stop, 
however, but passed through as quickly as possible. 
I was wrapped in my blanket just like a Mexican, to 
avoid being distinguished from them ; and by this 
means I went safely through. That night I traveled 
about twenty miles, and in the morning went to the 
mountains for concealment. 

On my way there I came to a rancho. Some men 
were around, and just mounting their horses appa- 
rently to go on a journey, I waited till they were 
gone. Seeing no man about the house, I soon after 
went in, and was welcomed by the women, of whom 
I asked the favor of something to eat ; a request with 
which they at once complied. To the honor of the 
Mexican women be it said, that when addressed in a 
respectful manner, they always supplied me with 
whatever I needed, if it was in their power to bestow 
it. I then asked of them several questions relative 
to my route, all of which they readily answered ; I 
also ascertained that the men who had gone away in 
the morning would not return till night. On hearing 
this, I asked the privilege of resting there a while to 
take a good sleep. This they readily granted. 

Behold me now sleeping in a house for the first 
time in six weeks ! As a general thing, I did not 
think it safe to go to a rancho if there were any men 
about, and only in one instance had I done so since 
leaving San Juan. I might possibly not have been 
molested at any time, but I did not like to run the 
risk, at least, till I was out of hearing of Queretaro. 
I considered it best to pick a precarious living in the 
mountains and sleep there, rather than trust this peo- 



120 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

pie, of whom it might be said that their dwellings 
are '^ the habitations of cruelty," and whose promi- 
nent characteristics are robbery, treachery, and blood- 
shed. Toward night I left this truly hospitable roof, 
and pursued my way through the fields— off the main 
road, yet parallel with it — ^till dark, when I again re- 
sumed the highway. 

This night I passed through another town safely, 
being molested by the barking of the dogs, but for- 
tunately meeting with no inhabitants. The valley 
had now contracted to about half its usual width, 
and was quite thickly settled, a circumstance which 
proved rather annoying to me. For the most part 
I kept the mountains during several nights, because 
of the difficulty of getting by these houses unper- 
ceived and unmolested. The danger was greater than 
in a village, for this reason : should any one be stir- 
ring, or any unusual barking of the dogs occur, it 
would at once create suspicion that all was not right, 
and a pursuit would be the result. I, however, got 
along safely ; but I was rather put to it for food. 
Two days had now passed, and I had found nothing 
to eat ; on the night of the third, I saw a little squir- 
rel, gave chase, and killed it. But I was so near 
some houses that I dared not make a fire to roast it, 
and withal so hungry that I could not wait that pro- 
cess, so I just skinned it, and ate part of it raw ; the 
other part I saved for my breakfast, and this I thought 
was the best meal I had ever eaten. 

The land here is very fertile, and capable of pro- 
ducing two crops per annum, and it is cultivated to 
the utmost of its capacity. In addition to corn, beans, 



IN MEXICO. 121 

and red pepper, tobacco and sugar-cane are raised 
with facility and in great abundance. The two lat- 
ter afford rich returns to the grower, but with regard 
to tobacco, so many restrictions are placed on it that 
but few raise it. As the law now is, all the tobac- 
co that is raised must be sold to government at a 
fixed price, the producer first getting a license to 
raise it from the proper authority. It is then man- 
ufactured at the expense of gavernment into cigars 
and cigarritos, and sold to the estancos by the whole- 
sale. Estancos are houses licensed to sell cigars and 
cigarritos. Tobacco that is imported has to pay a 
duty so high that it in effect amounts to a prohibi- 
tion. To prevent the smuggling of tobacco, guards 
are stationed at regular distances, who have charge of 
a certain extent of territory. Notwithstanding their 
vigilance, large quantities are annually smuggled ; 
and during my traveling in the night, I saw several 
caravans of mules and asses loaded with this article. 
They acted like myself, traveled by night, and laid 
by in the daytime. 

As I have now for a moment left my narrative, I 
will describe their manner of manufacturing sugar. 
The mill is a frame made firm and solid, about four 
feet high and Rye long, and from two to two and a 
half wide. Two cylinders, made of solid ^^ood, about 
two feet long arid from fifteen to twenty inches in di- 
ameter, are filled with thick, heavy cogs, in such a 
manner as to mash the cane nicely ; these are placed 
upright in the frame. Below the whole is a trough, 
so fixed that it will catch the juice as it is pressed 
out in the mill above. A long sweep is fastened to 

F 



122 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

one p| these cylinders, to v^hich the horse is attached. 
When the cane is ground and pressed, the juice is 
carried to the kettle, which is placed over an arch, 
and is as large as a potash-kettle; here it is boiled 
dovi^n until it is thick, and then placed in earthen ves- 
sels to cool, after which it is wrapped in husks and 
sent to market. On the largest plantations, where 
the sugar-cane is raised extensively, they have not 
apparatus to make over two or three barrels per day, 
so little idea have they of machinery to do a large 
quantity of work and with little labor. 

To show how they stand as to mechanical work, I 
will describe their manner of shoeing a horse. It 
takes from three to five, according to the disposition 
of the horse. No. 1 twists a rope round the horse's 
upper lip and holds him. No. 2 holds up the foot for 
No. 3 to pare the hoof and fit the shoe. If the horse 
is fractious. No. 4 stands by ready with the nails and 
iron with which to clinch them. To assist in doing 
this. No. 5 helps to hold the horse steady. From this 
it may justly be inferred that they consider it is a 
vastly hard job to shoe a horse. It is indeed a job 
not unfrequently requiring a whole day. I will now 
resume my narrative. 

The next morning, after finishing my squirrel, I 
hunted around for something else to eat. In the 
mountains generally I could occasionally find a little 
wild fruit ; but here, for some reason or other, none 
could be found. Houses were not far off. I there- 
fore determined to go and see what could be seen 
without exposing myself too far. I gradually crept 
up to a house, in the rear of which, in a yard, I saw 



IN MEXICO. 123 

some meat hanging up to dry. There was quite a 
large quantity, and I resolved to have some of it at 
any rate ; but as people were around the house all 
the while, it was dangerous to attempt it then ; so I 
lay concealed in the bushes nearly all day, when, to 
my great satisfaction, all hands left the house just 
before night ; not a soul remained behind ; and when 
they had got sufficiently distant, I went into the yard, 
secured what meat I could carry, and then hastened 
with all speed back to the mountains. This I con- 
sidered decidedly the richest haul I had made ; it cer- 
tainly was made just in the nick of time, as without 
it I believe I should have perished with hunger. Be- 
ing partly dried, I could eat it without roasting. 

I did not remain long in that vicinity, but hasten- 
ed on as fast as possible to avoid a pursuit, should 
any be made. I traveled all that night, during which 
time I made thirty miles. The next- morning I came 
to a ranch, where lived an old man and woman ; of 
them I obtained some tortillas, roasted some of my 
meat, and made a very good breakfast. I had now 
been on the road about eight weeks, and thought that 
for the future I might travel in the daytime and lie 
by during the night, and I changed my mode of trav- 
eling accordingly. 

That day I traveled fifteen miles, and kept the 
main road all the time. The next day an incident 
occurred that very nearly frustrated all my plans. I 
was going along at a good pace, when, looking back, I 
saw, about half a mile behind me, four men, riding 
on horseback at a rapid rate. I at once suspected 
that they were after me, and began to look for means 



124 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURp:S 

of escape. The mountains were one mile distant on 
either side of me ; the land was all cleared, and not 
a hush was to he seen. In any case, should I he 
seen running, it would excite suspicion and cause a 
pursuit ; so I turned off into a corn-field, got over 
the fence very deliherately, and slowly walked some 
rods into the corn, then threw down my hundle and 
went to work pulling up weeds, and occasionally a 
hill of corn, especially when it was in my way. By 
this time the men on horsehack came up, and when 
in front of me halted. I worked harder than ever, 
and they soon passed on. "When they were out of 
sight, I took my things under my arm and started 
for the mountains. 

For two entire days I did not go into the road again. 
"What corn and potatoes I got enahled me to save my 
meat till this time, and afforded me plenty to eat* 
After this my eatahles began to grow scarce again, 
maldng it necessary for me to look and find where 
another supply could he had. All that day and the 
next I could find none, hut the third day I found 
some at a house at which there were only some chil- 
dren. "What to do I knew not. The thought of rob- 
bing children was hard to bear, especially as they had 
previously given me something to eat. Under these 
circumstances, I bethought me of my rosary or string 
of beads, with a cross attached to it, that was hang- 
ing uselessly round my neck. This little trinket I 
valued as nothing, but they almost reverenced it. I 
therefore showed it to the children ; they kissed it 
reverently, crossed themselves to it, and had a good 
deal of other flummery, alike senseless to me. I 



IN MEXICO. 125 

asked them if they wanted it ; they said yes. I then 
asked them how much meat they would give me for 
it ; they said as much as I would wish. I then took 
down some nine or ten pounds, which they readily 
gave me for this, to them, inestimahle a^rtiole. They 
also gave me some tortillas. I then left the house, 
and went to the foot of the mountain, where I built 
a fire, and cooked some of my meat. 

The next morning I pursued my journey, and that 
day passed through a town, the name of which I do 
not remember ; but it was not a large, nor do I think 
a very civil place. While passing along the streets, 
with my blanket on my shoulder, a Mexican came 
Tip to me, and desked me to go with him to the al- 
calde's office. This I declined doing. He then called 
to some one to come and help him ; and they two took 
hold of me, one on each side, and marched me off to 
that functionary's. Here a large crowd was waiting 
for me. I was in some minutes before any questions 
were put to me, during which time I comprehend- 
ed that I was under arrest, and the cause of it; I 
also knew that if they persevered in their inquiries 
my guilt would be manifest, at least to them ; and 
the only way in which I could extricate myself from 
my dilemma was to play the fool. The first question 
they asked was, " Where is your passport ?" I made 
no answer, only by an idiotic grin on those around me. 
"What is your name ?" another grin was the reply. 
They kept me in the office nearly two hours, during 
which time I played the fool to their entire conviction. 
I made all sorts of noises. I would spit and drool all 
over myself ; in short, I so completely deceived them 



126 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

that they at last said, '' Poor fellow I let him go," which 
they soon did, motioning to me to go to the door. I, 
however, did not take the hint, but stood gaping 
round, to the infinite amusement of the hy-standers. 
At length they took me by the hand and led me to 
the door. I passed into the street, looked up on both 
sides at the houses, and would pick up a stone and 
throw it up in the air, then look at them and laugh. 
But all this while I kept moving toward the edge of 
the town, the crowd of gaping, wondering fools fol- 
lowing on all the while. They followed me as far 
as the suburbs of the town, and then suffered me to 
depart. As soon as I had got out of sight, being fear- 
ful of pursuit, I struck off to the mountains, where I 
remained two days, as I wished by all means to avoid 
the road for the present. The cause of my arrest was 
a suspicion that I was a spy. They had heard some- 
thing of a prisoner's escaping from Queretaro, but 
nothing sufficiently definite to hold a thorough ex- 
amination relative to it. Had I been recognized at 
this place as an escaped prisoner, I would, without 
doubt, have been shot, for I was considered as under 
oath not to try to get away at all. 

My long traveling and constant exposure had so 
reduced my system that I was at present hardly able 
to move. I was afraid that a serious sickness was 
about to stop my further progress, at least for a while ; 
I therefore looked for a house in some retired place, 
where I might safely stop for a few days, until my 
strength was somewhat recruited. Two days I drag- 
ged my weary limbs along before I found a place 
which would answer my purpose. The house was 



IN MEXICO. 127 

near the mountains, about two miles from the main 
road, and occupied by an old man and four children . 
I plainly told him of my situation, of my ill health, 
and utter inability to proceed on my journey, and 
asked his permission to remain in his house until I 
had recovered my health so as to be able to proceed. 
To this he gave his consent ; and I take pleasure in 
saying that during the time that I stayed with him 
he treated me like a father. In his attentions to me 
he was constant and unremitting. I remained here 
three weeks ; and this rest restored me to my usual 
health. I will now give some account of the appear- 
ance and productions of this part of the country. 

Volcanic action appears to have been prevalent at 
some former period through this region, as numerous 
specimens of lava occur ; and in some places, where 
vegetable matter has not accumulated above it, it ap- 
pears^ in one solid mass along the sides of the mount- 
ains from the top to the bottom. There appeared, in 
one place, to be a path made smooth by the lodging 
of some melted substance. The surface is smooth, 
and varies in width from one to five rods. I was not 
able to go to the top and examine its appearance 
there ; but my kind host informed me that on the 
top is a hollow basin going down to a great depth. 
This seemed to establish the fact that at some former 
period a volcano existed here ; but, so far as I could 
learn, there is no historic account of it. 

The country is entirely covered with chapparal ; 
these are bushes covered with thorns, and varying 
in size, but seldom growing larger than a common- 
sized apple-tree. The wood is hard, and looks li]:o 



128 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

lignum-vitsBj "being of a very firm and close grain. It 
is so full of oil that it makes an intensely hot fire. 
Throughout the chapparal occurs that sort of vege- 
table called cactus y of which there are several kinds. 
One species resembles the prickly pear ; but here it 
grows to a height of fifteen or twenty feet, and branch- 
es out in all directions. On this grows a berry as 
large as a common-sized apple, but it is unfit for use. 
This fruit is called tunas (pronounced toonas). There 
is, however, another kind, that bears a great resem- 
blance to the one above described, but differs in this, 
that the other has large and long thorns resembling 
a cambric needle, whereas the latter has none, and 
the fruit, when ripe, is of a pale blue, and good to 
eat. From this fruit they extract the juice, and when 
fermented it forms an excellent drink, called Colorado. 
This species of cactus they frequently transplant 
when small, and place where they want a fence. It 
grows rapidly, and forms a strong and durable hedge. 
There are three other kinds which are very com- 
mon. One grows to a great height, sometimes thirty 
feet, and every year's growth is marked by a joint or 
notch round the entire stalk. It is generally six- 
angled, and covered with thorns. This also is used 
for fences, and will make one so tight that a bird 
could not fly through. Another kind much resem- 
bles the one last described in appearance, only it is 
sm.aller, triangular, and spreads over the ground in- 
stead of standing upright. Another kind, and the 
last I shall mention, is entirely different from any of 
the others, never growing over five feet high ; it is 
large at the bottom, and rounds off at the top. The 



IN MEXICO. 129 

largest does not exceed twenty inches in thickness. 
Near the ground it is of a deep red color ; on rising 
higher it is a bright yellow, and as it draws to the 
top it fades to a very pale yellow color. 

The century plant also deserves to be noticed. It 
grows to the height of ten feet, or rather the leaves do, 
for there is no body to it. The leaves, according to 
its length, vary in thickness from one to two inches, 
and are about six inches wide, gradually tapering to 
a point, on which is a sharp thorn. By cutting to 
the center of this plant, a liquid is extracted, which, 
when fermented, is much used as an intoxicating 
drink, and called pulque. The plant is called by the 
Mexicans Mescal. They distill it, and make from 
it a liquor of the same name. The leaves (or, more 
properly, stalks) they pound up and soak until all the 
fibers can be taken out, when it is dried and manu- 
factured into ropes, for which, by its strength, it is 
well adapted. This plant is also used for fences. 

Of the animal kingdom I could not speak, not hav- 
ing seen much worthy of notice. One animal, how- 
ever, which I noticed, is the horned frog. It is of the 
size of a common frog, and very similar to it in shape 
and movements, but it has the additional perquisite 
of a horn on each side of its head. These vary in 
length, but they never exceed half an inch ; it has a 
row of smaller ones on its back. There is a kind of 
spider called tarantula, which is larger than the com- 
mon spider, and contains a deadly poison. 
F 2 



130 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER YI. 

Resume my Journey. — Sorrow on bidding Adieu to my Host. — His 
Kindness at parting. — Road begins to Descend. — Changed Appear- 
ance of the Country. — Crops. — Salamanca. — Universal Custom. — 
Meet a Countryman, who renders me important Services.- — Useless 
Bloodshed. — Advantages of a Passport.— Stage Lines. — Go Astray. 
— Strange Bed. — Recover the right Way. — Danger of Discovery. — 
Mode of raising Funds. — Guanahuato. — Poorer Classes of People. 
—Silver Mines. — Gambling and Drinking habits. — A Fellow-trav- 
eler. — Kindness of the People. — Appearance of the Country. — Scar- 
city of Water. — Robbed. — My fellow-traveler's Imprudence brings 
us into Danger. — Means of Living, Dwellings, and appearance of the 
People. — Parting Advice and Salutations. — Rich and Poor. — Peons. 
— Religious Exercises. — Barrens. — Fertile Spots. — Murders. — Sud- 
den Thunder-storm. — Troubles at a Village. — The Alcalde. — Good 
Offices of our Host. — Green Lizards. — Wild Horses. — Mode of 
catching and breaking them. — Mexican Horse-gear. 

Havinq now sufficiently recovered my health and 
strength, I resolved to prosecute my journey. To 
my kind friend I felt under many and weighty ob- 
ligations. I felt that to his hospitality I owed my 
life ; but I was so poor that I had nothing to pay. 
How I then wished that I had a fortune at my com- 
mand, that I could pay him as he deserved. As it 
was, I must leave him poor as I found him. It was 
painful to leave this good old man. I had in a meas- 
ure become attached to him, and he appeared to be 
so to me. "When I told him of the necessity there 
was for my going, he urged me to stay with him. 
His generous heart would consider it as a favor done 



IN MEXICO. 131 

to him, rather than an encumbrance, could I have 
accepted his kind offer. 

I determined to start the next morning. He told 
one of his sons to get a horse and carry me some little 
distance. He did so, and on we started. We that 
day crossed the Laxa, a tributary of the St. Jago, 
which empties its waters into the Pacific Ocean. 
This sight gi-eatly encouraged me, for I was now on 
the descending side, having passed the highest point 
of the table-land. My comrade went ten miles with 
me, then took his leave and returned home^ bearing 
with him my deepest gratitude and heartfelt thanks. 

The way now was mostly level ; the valley was 
perfectly so, fertile, and highly cultivated. Corn, to- 
bacco, and large fields of sugar-cane were growing 
on both sides of the road. Two crops a year is a com- 
mon yield where they have industry to put them into 
the ground. Cotton is raised on some of the low 
lands to a considerable extent, though it will proba- 
bly never be a staple production, owing to their igno- 
rance in not knowing how to cultivate it properly, 
and their indolence in not attending to it at the prop- 
er time. 

I traveled this day about thirty miles, and stopped 
at night at a rancho, where I was hospitably received 
and provided for ; and the next morning I started 
early, being determined to reach Salamanca, distant 
forty miles. I now managed to live tolerably well, 
the inhabitants taking me for one of the San Patri- 
cio company, who had fought in defense of their coun- 
try and religion. After I had got out of hearing of 
Queretaro, I told this story, and they believed it. 



132 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

without asking me for a passport, a thing which I 
could not show them. Most of this day's journey 
was along the river which I had crossed the day be- 
fore. For a few miles, the road was built up about 
two feet, on account of a large marsh ; and on each 
side was a wall, plastered over with cement. About 
midway in this marsh were two high pillars by the 
road side. For what object these were built I know 
not. 

I arrived at Salamanca after dark, and sought lodg- 
ings in the suburbs of the town, at the house of a 
priest. He was a fat, portly-looking person, kind- 
ness and good nature being stamped on his face. He 
received me with cordiality, gave me a supper, and 
then conversed about my country. He was quite in- 
telligent and interesting in conversation. At eleven 
o'clock he permitted me to go to the bed I so much 
needed, for I was very tired. The next morning, after 
breakfast, I walked round the town in company with 
this priest. I found it to be a large and well-built 
town. Round its public square, the buildings were 
splendid for a Mexican town. The churches were 
large and spacious, and by the side of one stood a 
large convent. While in the square, the priest point- 
ed to a man who was coming toward us, and said he 
was an American. This, to me, was news of the most 
gratifying kind. When we met, I spoke to him in 
Spanish. He looked at me a moment, and then an- 
swered in English ; I excused myself to the priest, 
and went with my countryman. He went to his fac- 
tory, which was half a mile from the town, When 
there, I asked him if he was an American. He said he 



IN MEXICO. 133 

was. I asked what state he was from. He answer- 
ed, Connecticut. " Then, su'," I replied, " as you are 
an American, I feel that I can ask your assistance in 
a matter of the utmost importance to me, and one that 
requires great discretion on your part." I then re- 
lated enough of my history to show him the necessity 
of my having a passport, and asked if he could aid 
me in getting one. He replied that he could ; that he 
was well acquainted with the commandante, and on 
terms of intimacy with him ; and he readily offered 
to go and get me one. At his request I stayed there 
all day, as he could not go before the afternoon. I 
passed the intervening time as I best could, going 
round the factory, and then the tovni. 

I will here mention a universal custom, which I 
forgot to notice before. Wherever a dead body has 
been found, there they bury it, and over it place a 
cross. If it is near a tree, the cross is nailed to the 
tree. Along the road that I came I passed numerous 
crosses almost daily. This gives a very correct idea 
of the safety, or, rather, danger of the road ; for if a 
person is supposed to have money, he is seldom suf- 
fered to pass unmolested. But what brought this 
circumstance to my mind more particularly was this 
fact : Just below the factory, in the open field, there 
was a large number of these crosses, some three or 
four hundred, I was infornied that during the war 
with Spain a battle had been fought at this place, in 
which the Mexicans were victorious, and these cross- 
es were erected oyer the graves of those who were 
killed. 

At the time appointed I went, in company with the 



134 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

director of the factory, to the office of the comman- 
dante. It was represented that I that morning had 
lost my passport ; that I was one of the San Patricio 
company, and had fought with honor and fidelity in 
favor of this country, &c., and he concluded by hum- 
hly asking for another from him to enable me to pros- 
ecute my journey. The commandante was a fat, 
good old soul, and looked as though he was too lazy 
to inquire very strictly into the truth of the matter. 
He inquired my name, and who gave me the pass- 
port I had lost, &c., which I readily answered. He 
then gave me another. With this I felt as rich as 
though I could command the whole of the Indies. 
Now I was safe ; and if life and health were spared 
me, I knew I should again see home and friends. To 
my kind friend, who had rendered me this important 
service, I returned my warmest thanks. He said 
that he had been compelled to be very circumspect 
in his language since the war ; and, even as it was, 
he said they had talked of arresting him on suspi- 
cion that he would convey information to the Ameri- 
cans. Had they reflected one moment, they must 
have seen that, situated as far as he was from the 
army, he could not have acted as a spy. But they 
did not arrest him ; his friend the commandante saved 
him. Still, he said that he would do all he could to 
an American soldier in attempting to escape from 
captivity. He took me to his house, entertained me, 
and clothed me. 

Next morning, with many hearty wishes for my 
safety, he bade me farewell. In addition to a suit 
of clothes, a pair of shoes, and a hat, he gave me 



IN MEXICO. 135 

three dollars in money. In value, the whole would 
amount to near fifteen dollars. If I had been so for- 
tunate as to get this passport at Queretaro, I should 
now have been at G-uadalajara. But those men to 
whom I there applied were as destitute of sympathy 
for me as a common brute, and I verily believe would 
as soon have put forth a hand to the assistance of a 
dog. I am only sorry that I have not their names, 
for it would afford me as much pleasure to hold them 
up to deserved execration as to mention the many in- 
stances of kindness that I received, not only from my 
countrymen, but also at the hands of those against 
whom we were waging a bloody war. I say bloody, 
because it is an undeniable fact that the marches of 
our army and the occupation of many of their towns 
were attended with unnecessary bloodshed. In proof 
of this, we have only to refer to the fields of Monte- 
rey, where scores of Mexicans were slaughtered from 
pure revenge. At the camp near Saltillo scores were 
found dead, having been immolated on the altar of 
vengeance. That the Mexicans were the first ag- 
gressors in murdering some of our soldiers can not 
be denied ; but it was not right to sacrifice the inno- 
cent for the crimes of the guilty. These things were 
published through the republic, and generated a feel- 
ing of hostility and vengeance that was hard to allay. 
Hence any who would desert and join the Mexican 
standard would be received with open arms ; and the 
reputation of the San Patricio battalion was spread 
from ocean to ocean, and to that, more than any thing 
else, do I owe my present safety. 

But to resume my narrative. I that day kept in 



136 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

the road, and with a feeling of safety that I had not 
experienced since the time I first started. I now had 
my passport, and in every town I came to I could 
walk boldly and in open daylight to any part of it. 
I now could go to every alcalde, where I wished to 
stop, and demand of him quarters to sleep. 

Here I may state that, by a recent order of gov- 
ernment^ every alcalde or commandante was required, 
by all means in their power, to aid and assist any of 
those belonging to the San Patricio company who 
wished to go to the Pacific — 'to give them quarters at 
night, and, if necessary, to furnish them with money, 
&c. This order I now took advantage of, as a mat- 
ter of course ; for, whenever I came to a town, I 
would present myself to the superior officer and show 
him my passport ; sometimes he would countersign 
it, sometimes not; but he would always give me 
some money and an order to go to a meson (or tav- 
ern), where a room was given me. This room I could 
occupy so long as I stayed there, and free of charge. 

A£tgr leaving Salamanca, the road was bad — down 
deep gulleys, and ascending others on the opposite 
bank. Although the stages between Mexico, Zaca- 
tecas, and Gruanahuato travel this road, they never 
repair it ; yet it might, with very little labor, be made 
an excellent road. These stages were built at Troy, 
New York, and when I saw one it strongly remind- 
ed me of home. They were projected by a Span- 
iard, who brought the vehicles into the country. He 
is now running them between Mexico and all the prin- 
cipal cities, and is very rapidly accumulating a hand- 
some fortune as the fruits of his enterprise. This is 



IN MEXICO. 137 

the first instance in which I have seen any thing that 
resembles Yankee enterprise in Mexico projected and 
carried into execution by a Mexican, or even a Span- 
iard. 

That night I stopped at a small hacienda, and 
v^ent to the house of the dueno, who, after examin- 
ing my passport, gave me permission to remain in his 
house till morning. He gave me supper and break- 
fast, and in the morning I resumed my journey. The 
country was now almost entirely uninhabited and 
uncultivated. During that day I suffered consider- 
ably from want of water, and I passed but two houses 
the entire day. The next day I again lost my way, 
and before I found out my mistake I had traveled 
three days. 

One night, during this period, as I could not find 
a house, I slept out in the open field. As I had been 
long accustomed to this, it made but little difference ; 
but, having nothing for supper, the situation was far 
from pleasant ; no corn or potatoes could be seen, nor 
could I perceive any birds or squirrels, as it was now 
near dark. As the rainy season had not yet passed, 
I expected to get a wetting before morning. This 
proved to be the case, for in the night I was awaken- 
ed by some rain falling on my face. I just turned 
over a little, put my arm over my face to shelter it, 
and went to sleep again. It rained hard all night, 
and next morning I found that I was nearly sub- 
merged in water, as it reached half way over me. 
^e reason of this was, that the night before I had 
selected a sort of hollow place to lie in because of the 
protection it would afford me against the wind, and 



138 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

this hollow was filled with water. In the morning 
the sun came out clear. I got up, shook myself, and 
pressed on, determined, if possible, to find a house. 

Toward nightfall I found one. I walked in, got 
something to eat, and asked leave to stay all night. 
They granted me my request. I told them of the 
mishap of the preceding night, when they said that 
up near the mountains, about three miles from where 
I was, there was a small town, but it could not be 
seen from the road. I inquired of them about the 
road that I was to take, and to my sorrow I was again 
informed that I must take the back track. I thanked 
them for their information, and went to sleep, but my 
slumbers were disturbed by the attacks of swarms of 
nameless little animals. Next morning I prepared 
for an early start. Before leaving, they gave me di- 
rections where to stay that night, to avoid sleeping 
in the open air. 

At the end of three days I again came into the 
right road without meeting with any adventure worth 
relating. I then traveled on as fast as possible, as 
the distance to a stopping-place was twenty miles, 
and the day was more than half gone. Common re- 
port says that this road is infested with bands of rob- 
bers without number, and that hardly a day passes 
but some one is robbed, or perhaps killed. I myself 
saw several crosses that had evidently been put up 
quite lately, but I do not know that I ever saw any 
robbers, not having been molested by them yet. I 
have, however, been very much troubled at times by 
the sight of large bodies of cavalry, some of whom 
were going in the same direction that I was. My 



IN MEXICO. 139 

only and greatest fear was that some officer might 
be with them who knew me ; and in one or two in- 
stances I saw three with whom I was quite well ac- 
quainted, and who knew me as a prisoner of war ; 
but, owing to my being in another place, a change of 
clothes, and their not expecting to see me, I was for- 
tunately not recognized. This was a danger that I 
encountered every time I came into a town of any 
size ; but an overruling Providence protected me. 

The names of all the towns that I passed through 
I do not recollect, for I did not note them down, as 
they were small, and nothing of importance occur- 
red ; but of the larger sized I generally took down a 
memorandum. -MLt was my usual practice, when I 
came to any town, to go to the priests, and all the 
merchants and wealthy men, present them my pass- 
port, and ask them to assist me on my journey ; this 
they did cheerfully, and sometimes abundantly. In 
some towns I got even four or five dollars. This is 
the way that I supported myself since leaving Sala- 
manca, and it was a resource that never failed me./ 
I do not approve of the practice of begging, nor would 
I feel willing to acknowledge myself a beggar ; but 
I do not now feel that I have been much disgraced 
by having practiced it under those circumstances ; it 
certainly was considered as an honor by them, as they 
were under the impression that I was reduced to this 
extremity by fighting against my countrymen. 

I now drew near Gruanahuato or G-uanaxuato. The 
road was rough, and in some places mountainous. 
About five days before reaching that city I forded a 
river which was wide, but so shallow that none of 



140 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

my clothes were wet in fording it. The country was 
more mountainous than the part that I had passed 
through. It seemed to be a continuous chain of 
mountains, one piled up on another, and only here 
and there a patch could be found that was cultivated. 
I was now in the midst of the best mining region of 
Mexico, both of gold and of silver. (Quicksilver, also, 
is found here, but not in sufficient quantities to pay 
the working of the mine. 

After a few days of rough traveling I arrived at 
Gruanahuato, and presented myself to the authori- 
ties. G-ood quarters were assigned me at the quar- 
tel, and the next morning I took a stroll to examine 
one of those opulent cities of which I had read so 
much. I could scarcely realize that I was in one of 
those places where wealth is acquired as though by 
magic— where fortunes are sometimes made in an 
hour. The entrance to the city, on the side that I 
came, is through a narrow pass, guarded by high 
mountains on one side, and a dark, impassable gulf 
on the other. In this pass are gates, which at night, 
I believe, are closed. The city itself is built on the 
side of a mountain ; the streets which run along its 
length lie one above the other, each being on a level 
with the roofs of those houses that are built on the 
street below. The walls on the tops of the houses 
are covered with grass ; and when a person is at the 
top, and looks below, he is astonished in not being 
able to see more houses. A field of grass appears to 
be spread out before him, and all that presents a va- 
riety is the churches, whose numerous spires rear 
their towering tops on high. 



IN MEXICO. 141 

The Capitol is a beautiful building, large and spa- 
cious ; the Mint, and, in short, all the public build- 
ings, are more grand and imposing in appearance than 
in any place I had yet seen. There were some En- 
glishmen here, a company of whom owned and work- 
ed one of the best silver mines in Mexico. I did not 
see any of these, nor did I wish to do so, having seen 
enough of them in Queretaro. 

The poorer classes, I observed, were better dressed, 
and appeared to be more above the condition of the 
same class than in any other part of Mexico, probably 
owing to the fact that more money was in circula- 
tion, and obtained with greater facility. 

The mountains here afford an inexhaustible source 
of wealth. Some dig only just enough to supply 
their wants, and with this remain content ; others 
work their mines day and night. One mine was 
shown me which was discovered in the following sin- 
gular manner. A poor peasant was going over the 
mountain one day on foot. Night overtook him be- 
fore he was half way down, and he built a fire, and 
collected some brush to keep it going all night. He 
then lay down, wrapped in his blanket, and went to 
sleep. In the morning, when he awoke, his fire was 
gone out ; the wind had blown away the ashes, and 
the vegetable matter that had accumulated above the 
rocks had burned clean off. The heat of the fire had 
been so great that the rock had become calcined, and 
separated from the rich metal it contained. The poor 
peasant then discovered the source of his present 
wealth. He was not able to erect mills to grind the 
stone, but he commenced by digging and selling the 



142 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

stone at so much the aroba, about twenty-five pounds. 
He continued this until he was able to build mills 
and work his mine to advantage. He is now one of 
the richest men of G-uanahuato, and his property is 
counted by millions. This is not a solitary instance ; 
others, equally striking, were related to me. 

"Where so much money is in circulation, gambling 
and drinking (those curses of Mexico) are practiced 
to great excess. The passion for gambling pervades 
all classes of society ; men, women, and even children 
are victims to this ruinous vice. I have seen little 
children, who could barely talk plain, take their claco 
or quartilla (three cents), run to their mothers, hold 
it up to them, and lisp monte ! The wealthier class- 
es I have seen staking their thousands, and losing 
them with as much apparent indifference as though it 
was a hair from their head, or a button from their vest, 
I was told that one man in this city staked and lost 
one hundred thousand in one game ; but I shall say 
more on this subject hereafter. 

I had been here three days, when I made prepara- 
tions for a start. On the following morning I found 
that, in coming to this place, I had gone out of my 
way about five days' journey. I had all the time sup- 
posed that it was in my route direct to Guadalajara, 
but here I found out that I was mistaken ; I took the 
wrong road at the place where I forded the river. 
But I was well paid in coming here, both in money, 
clothes, &c., and also in the new and interesting ob- 
jects that I saw. 

While at Gruanahuato I accidentally came across 
one of the San Patricio company, who had been here 



IN MEXICO. 143 

some months. He determined to go to G-uadalajara 
in my company, and thence to the Pacific. His name 
was James Mahon, an Irishman; and a more dis- 
agreeable person could hardly be found. He was 
eternally drinking and fighting, and would frequent- 
ly quarrel with the Mexicans, a course which often 
endangered our lives. This I did not know until after 
we had traveled together several days. The chief 
reason why I consented to go with him was because 
of the loneliness I often experienced m traveling alone 
through a country for the most part thinly inhabited. 
I was further induced to this step by the representa- 
tions of the dangers of the way. It was said that 
the inhabitants in some small villages were very hos- 
tile to foreigners, and in two instances had attacked 
and killed some few of this same San Patricio com- 
pany. If this was so, two, I thought, were better 
than one, and both would stand a better chance of 
escape should an attack be made. 

The morning we left G-uanahuato we made an ear- 
ly start, and traversed the route which I had previ- 
ously come. This we did with considerable comfort 
and ease, for the inhabitants showed us all the kind- 
ness in their power. Being acquainted with me, our 
food and lodging cost us nothing ; and they seemed 
to vie with each other to see who should do the most 
for us. They would frequently put us on their horses 
and carry us a few miles, so that this part of the jour- 
ney was the most pleasant of the whole route. This 
continued on their part as far as the river, which I 
must again cross to get into the road which I was to 
take. After this the people were all strangers, or, 



144 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

rather, they had never seen me before ; we therefore 
did not expect the same kindness and hospitality 
that we had received while coming from G-uanahuato. 
Still, we were not as yet molested, but we were con- 
stantly drawing nearer those places where it was rep- 
resented that an unfriendly feeling existed. 

The country was rough, rocky, and barren. Some- 
times we traveled whole days without seeing a house, 
during which time we were often pressed for want 
of water, and none could be had ; but we occasionally 
found a mud hole with a little thick, muddy water 
in it. This we drank with avidity, and thought our- 
selves lucky in finding even this. 

One day, while on one of these gloomy routes, we 
met five men on foot. They passed us, and then 
wheeled round and seized us both by our arms. They 
bound us fast, searched our pockets, and took all the 
money we had, amounting to near five dollars, our 
blankets, and what clothes we did not have on. They 
then left us without as much as thanking us, and 
also without untying us. We waited a few moments 
until they were out of sight, and then set to work to 
free ourselves, which we finally did, and jogged on 
our way. How much lighter a man feels after hav- 
ing been robbed, even if it is but little that he has 
to lose. We certainly did ; we breathed freer, and 
were certainly lighter by sorne ten or fifteen pounds 
a piece ; but we were glad to come off so well. Dur- 
ing the operation not a word was said ; they had us 
perfectly secure, and they knew it. As they had 
arms, and we none, no resistance could be success- 
fully made. - 



IN MEXICO. 145 

We traveled on a little faster than before, anxious 
to increase the distance between us and our late ac- 
quaintances. That night we came to a small village, 
which was merely a collection of huts. The inhab- 
itants were a villainous -looking set of rascals, and we 
did not like to stay there ; but, as it was some miles 
to another village, we concluded to brave the danger, 
and not try to avoid it by skulking in the fields. In 
the course of the evening, some men came to the 
house where we stopped for the night, and offered us 
liquor to drink. We accepted it, and drank some. 
My comrade drank heartily, and continued drink- 
ing until he was beastly drunk, notwithstanding the 
many cautions that I gave him. He only abused 
me, the Mexicans, and the whole nation. His lan- 
guage finally excited their anger, and they became 
roused to such a degree that I every moment expect- 
ed them to fall on us, and perhaps kill us. There 
was one in the crowd who appeared to have some con- 
trol over the rest. To him I appealed, showed him 
my passport, told him of my having fought in favor 
of his country in the battles of Buena Vista, and 
those near Mexico, &c., and I begged him to over- 
look and pass by the abuse of my drunken comrade. 
After some other conversation, in which I gained his 
confidence, he said that we should be protected ; and 
he then ordered his associates to leave, and not molest 
us any more. 

This place, I afterward learned, was the rendez- 
vous of robbers ; and there is no doubt that the rob- 
bers whom we had met lived in this same village, 
which may possibly have been the place where those 

a 



146 TRAVELS AISD ADVENTURES 

murders were committed which I have related on a 
preceding page. 

The country through which we were now passing 
was rough and even mountainous. For several days 
we did not see a field under cultivation ; and it was 
a rare case that we saw over two or three houses in 
a whole day's travel. How those few inhabitants 
managed to live was a mystery, unless it was by 
plunder. This was most probably the case ; for, ac- 
cording to an old saying, a person that wont work 
must steal, and here work could not be had, because 
there was none to be done. Their houses deserve a 
description. They are simply poles stuck in the 
ground close together, the cracks between them being 
filled up with pieces of timber. The roof is thatched 
with straw, and sometimes covered with bark. The 
door is made by splitting some timbers in two, which 
are then fastened to a cross-piece with thongs, and 
set up in the door-way. They build their fire for 
cooking in the center of the room, and never have a 
fire unless for cooking purposes. The inmates are a 
wretched-looking people, as ragged as they can well 
be, and the most miserable and squalid of any human 
beings that I ever saw. This, thought I, is poverty. 
The floors of these houses are nothing but the earth 
trodden down hard. This also forms their bed ; and 
I can say from experience that it makes a hard one. 

That these people must sometimes starve, or, what 
is nearly as bad, almost starve, is, I think, from the 
nature of their circumstances, unavoidable. In some 
places in this part of the country the almost univers- 
al musquit bush does not grow, and, consequently. 



IN MEXICO. 147 

the ordinary supply of wood is cut off. To remedy 
this great want, cattle dung is gathered and dried. 
This makes a very hot fire ; and victuals cooked with 
this kind of fuel do not need as much seasoning as 
though cooked with wood ; but its flavor is not quite 
so good. I have seen them burning lime with this 
article, which shows conclusively that it produces an 
intense heat. 

Next morning we prepared for an early start. We 
paid our respects to the man who so kindly protected 
us the evening before. He gave my comrade a good 
piece of advice, hereafter to regulate his tongue so 
that it should no more abuse those whose hospitality 
gave us shelter ; and he then stated that, but for his 
interference, we should both of us have been killed. 
This rather astonished my comrade, who was not 
aware of having been more than gentlemanly drunk. 
We, however, begged a thousand pardons for having 
unwittingly insulted them. We then started on our 
journey, amid the shouts and jeers of an ignorant 
and brutal rabble. Their principal shout was, " The- 
gringoes are gone : hurrah .'" Tliis word gringo, 
is a corruption of green-horn, and is supposed by the 
Mexicans to be the most opprobrious epithet the En- 
glish language affords, and equal to the word chivo 
with them, which means a he-goat. You may call a 
Mexican by any term of reproach but this ; use chivo 
even to a common beggar, and you will put him in a 
most furious and ungovernable rage. 

It is utterly impossible for any one who has not 
seen it to imagine the difference which exists be- 
tween the rich and the poor in this wretched country. 



148 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

The rich, v^ho rule every thing — even the minds of 
the poor — are generally most debased, morally ; and 
they are, consequently, cruel masters. They have 
the power to punish to almost any extent, even death, 
and are served with the most abject deference by their 
peons or slaves. As slavery is not recognized, the 
word servants, perhaps, would be more proper. But, 
in effect, they are in a state worse than slavery. They 
are mostly bound to their masters for some debt, 
which the latter take care shall never be paid. They 
appear to have neither mind nor hope above their 
present condition, and will continue to work on from 
day to day, and from year to year, without receiving 
more than enough to keep soul and body together. 
"When addressing their masters, they take off their 
hats, and speak in a hesitating and trembling manner, 
as though they were in the presence of a superior Be- 
ing. There is nothing they will not do for money, 
even to the selling of their wives and daughters for 
a time. Instances of this kind are not rare, and have 
been related to me by indisputable authority. 

The religious feeling which pervades all classes, 
young and old, is remarkable. Never do they pass a 
church without uncovering their heads, and turning 
their faces thitherward ; and at the sound of the bell 
for vespers, every hat is removed, and all stand un- 
covered wherever they are, repeating a sort of prayer, 
in which all join until the sound is over, when each 
one resumes whatever occupation he might have been 
engaged in when interrupted. In some of their large 
towns and cities, where I have been on a Sunday, 1 
have seen their plazas or squares filled with people. 



IN MEXICO. 149 

There were perhaps thousands, all attending to hnying 
and sellmg, with all the energy and activity they are 
master of; hut when, at the closing of the services 
in the Cathedral, the large hell tolls, then all in the 
square kneel, facing the church, and at every stroke 
of the hell they will thump on their hreasts with 
-their closed hands. This is done simultaneously hy 
all ; and in so large a concourse of people, its sound 
very much resemhles distant thunder. At the same 
time, all are praying, producing sounds not unlike 
the humming of bees. Of this, more hereafter. 

"We that day traveled through a country very much 
resembling what we had passed for the last five days ; 
not a particle of land was cultivated but that on the 
banks of rivers or streams ; and, except in such spots, 
it is of the most barren description, being principal- 
ly composed of a hard, yellow clay, so poor that in 
many localities grass will not grow. I have trav- 
eled more than a hundred miles at a time without 
seeing sufficient grass to furnish one good meal for a 
horse, or a stone as large as a pebble. The road, 
except in a few places where it crosses gulleys and 
mountains, is excellent, being hard, and as level as a 
floor. On the banks of the streams the fertility of 
the soil is such as amply to repay the farmer, and 
the crops seem never to exhaust the ground. I have 
seen pieces that have been worked more than fifty 
years, with sometimes two crops a year, and yet the 
soil does not seem to be exhausted, and all this with- 
out spreading on it a particle of manure. Were the 
Mexicans not so excessively lazy, they might pro- 
duce any thing they chose, and in any quantity ; but 



150 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

v^hen the seed is put in the ground, they think they 
have done enough. If it should not come up, or the 
plant not thrive, they call on the Virgin Mary, or fall 
on their knees hefore their priest at the altar, tell 
him how unfortunate they are, buy a hlessing, and 
go home with glorious expectations. ^ 

Our journey to-day was extremely rough, climh- 
ing hills and mountains, and then descending them. 
We passed a spot where three crosses were placed 
beside the road. From the date, it was evident that 
the murders were committed quite lately, and, from 
the inscription on them, it was certain that men of 
wealth had been murdered. It was in a deep ravine,' 
between two hills, in a place completely darkened by 
the overhanging bushes, so that it was a very fit local- 
ity to commit such crimes. A little further two more 
were seen, making five in all. Our fears were now 
a little excited lest there might be a necessity to erect 
crosses over our bodies also, as, from the scarcity of 
houses and travelers, every facility was afforded to 
commit deeds of violence with impunity. However, 
we got along safe. 

Soon after, we came to huge mountains, across 
which our road lay. This laborious task had well- 
nigh forced us to give out, as we were greatly fa- 
tigued by the journey we had aheady performed that 
day. But we pushed ahead, as there was no stop- 
ping-place within a distance of nearly fifteen miles, 
and the sun had already passed the meridian. 

We here witnessed one of those strange phenome- 
na that are so common among the mountains of this 
country. We had got into a deep valley ; high mount- 



IN MEXICO. 151 

ains encompassed us on all sides ; we were sitting by 
the side of a stream, resting for a moment, when we 
observed a cloud, not large nor black, passing swiftly 
by. It was rapidly followed by another, and another, 
and yet another, each blacker than the one that pre- 
ceded it. In an incredibly short space of time the 
heavens were blacker than Egyptian darkness ; the 
clouds seemed to be too heavy to float in the air, and 
rested on the tops of the mountains. The scene was 
more than grand — it was frightful. Soon a flash of 
lightning was seen ; others followed, clothed with 
more terrific brilliancy ; all these came in rapid suc- 
cession : thunder, long, loud, and heavy, seeming to 
make the earth tremble, came peal on peal, in quick 
succession, with a noise as though heaven and earth 
were coming together with a mighty crash. On the 
tops of the mountains it seemed to rain hard, but 
down where we were only a few large drops fell. 
This lasted probably twenty minutes, when the storm 
blew over, and we again proceeded on our journey. 

That night we reached a small town by the name 
of Calais. It was after dark when we arrived there. 
As soon as we were discovered to be foreigners, a 
crowd collected around us and called out gringoes ! 
gringoes! We went to the alcalde, presented our 
passports, and requested quarters for the night ; he 
coolly read them, and then said that if we had any 
money, we could no doubt get lodgings ; if we had 
none, he could not help us. The gaping rabble had 
followed us thither, and stood around the door as 
though in breathless anxiety to hear what this old 
worthy would say ; and when he had given his do- 



152 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

cision, they seemed to relish it mightily, for they im- 
mediately gave three cheers, crying out, " Carrajo 
los gring-oesr^ This was follov^ed up and repeated 
so often that it at length excited our anger, and to 
such a degree that we thought it best to check it at 
once. I then turned to them, and addressed them 
nearly to this effect : that we were going to the Pa- 
cific, were running away from the Americans, and 
that hitherto, without any exception, we had been 
well treated by the inhabitants of that country, and 
I was sorry to say that this was the first place where 
we had experienced any ill treatment. I now de- 
sired them, once for all, to understand that we would 
not endure any more of their abuse ; that we were 
capable of protecting ourselves, and should do it, at 
whatever hazard. 

These remarks quieted a few, but made others 
more tumultuous. They now commenced throwing 
stones at us, some of which hit and hurt us. As we 
were both armed with good heavy clubs, we went 
among them. Those that had thrown the stones we 
had marked, and we knocked them down, the rest 
remaining quiet. At this moment the alcalde came 
out and inquired what the matter was ; all were ea- 
ger to tell, and no chance was given us to speak. At 
length the alcalde told us to follow him to his office. 
"We did so. When there, he examined us separately. 
"We could not satisfy him, however, that we told the 
truth, and he began to say something about a car- 
eel or jail. We asked him if he intended to put us 
in jail. He said he must, for riotous conduct. Our 
tempers had not yet got so smoothed down that we 



IN MEXICO. 153 

could bear any indignity without expressing some lit- 
tle demur ; and aS I could best talk with, him, I now 
rose. As we were in the office alone, and the doors 
fastened within, I had no fears of interference from 
without. I said in a bold, defiant tone, that as for 
going to jail, if he was determined on it, I and my 
comrade would go ; " But mark you, Mr. Alcalde," 
said I, '' there is, one day's journey behind, twenty 
men of this same San Patricio company. To-morrow 
night they will be here, and if I am in jail they will 
tear it down and free us ; and as they are well armed, 
they will massacre you and all who make any resist- 
ance. Now, then, take us to the jail, if you dare." 

This address had the desired effect. A coward I 
suspected him to be from the first, and a coward he 
now proved himself. He was at first in fear of the 
rabble, who commenced hooting at us as soon as we 
entered the village, and he was afraid of showing us 
that protection which, as a public officer, he was 
bound to do. He now said that he had no wish to 
molest us or cause us any inconvenience ; that he 
would give us quarters for the night, and in the morn- 
ing we might depart, as soon as we pleased, unmo- 
lested. 

We then asked him to go to a meson or tavern 
with us, assign us our rooms, give us the keys, and 
leave orders that no one should give us any more 
trouble. To this he readily consented. When we 
went out of his office, the rabble was still standing 
around there, and these he ordered off. When we 
got to the tavern, he gave us our supper, showed us 
our room, gave us the keys^ and ordered all the gates 
G2 



154 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ehut, and not to be opened until we wished to go in 
the morning. 

All was done according to the alcalde's orders, and 
we found ourselves much more comfortable than the 
proceedings attending our entrance into the town 
promised. The landlord we found to be a quiet, in- 
oiFensive sort of a man, and we conversed with him 
for some time on the events of the evening. He stat- 
ed that this town was some distance from any other, 
and was the head-quarters of some bands of robbers. 
Then, speaking in a low whisper, he said that the al- 
calde always received a part of the plunder, and that 
he sometimes even headed an expedition. "When he 
told this, I asked, with some astonishment, why the 
government did not take it in hand, and put a quietus 
on these proceedings. At this he shook his head, and. 
replied, "iVb hay fuerza en el gohierno''' (there is 
no force in the government). I then asked him if it 
was safe for us to travel in the morning alone. He 
said that the alcalde's myrmidons might possibly give 
us trouble, but that the alcalde himself would not ; 
the threat of my coming comrades would restrain him 
from taking any action against us personally. I asked 
if there was any other way to get off in the morning 
than to take the main road. He said there was ; that 
by following up close to the mountain, a foot-path led, 
by a circuitous route of some miles, into the main 
road. He also advised me to go along before day- 
light, so as not to be seen by any of the people, as 
their excitement knew no bounds when not restrained 
by absolute force. 

This man so won on my confidence that I determ- 



IN MEXICO. 155 

ined to follow his advice ; and, as it was late, I start- 
ed to go to my room, first requesting him to awaken 
us by two o'clock in the morning, which he consent- 
ed to do. "We found in the room given us an espoda, 
)r short sword. This I determined to carry with me, 
and, if occasion required, use it hereafter instead of 
my cane. We threw ourselves on the mat, and in 
an instant we were sound asleep. 

It seemed as though we had been asleep but a few 
moments before a loud thumping and rattling at the 
door awakened us. I inquired who was there. The 
friendly voice of our landlord answered that it was 
already two o'clock. We then got up, and prepared 
for a start. He first gave us a breakfast, for which 
he refused pay ; then, as silently as possible, he let us 
out of the corral or yard. He followed us, and volun- 
teered his services in showing us which way to take, 
and accompanied us some three or four miles. He 
then left us to go back, advising us to keep out of 
the main road for ten or fifteen miles, after which we 
might again take it, and also to travel as fast as we 
could. As this advice seemed good, we resolved to 
follow it to the very letter. 

The path we were now taking was nearer and 
much rougher ; but we jogged on, anxious to make 
the distance between us and the place we had left as 
great as possible, and in the shortest space of time 
passed two small villages, leaving them some way 
to the right on the main road. It was evident that 
our fi-iend wished us to avoid these. After passing 
the second one, we might safely take the road again. 

We saw on this mountain journey some armadil- 



156 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

loes, the first I had ever seen ; but as these animals 
have been so often described, I will say no more of 
them. Innumerable swarms of lizards covered the 
ground in this region ; they were of a greenish color. 
They leaped out of our way in such large numbers 
that they looked more like a body of green grass than 
a collection of animals. I had frequently seen this 
species before, but not in such swarms. 

The number of wild horses was another matter of 
curiosity. Large droves of them were feeding around 
us ; they were of the mustang species, small in stat- 
ure, but with frames firm and well built. All their 
movements were most graceful, showing their splen- 
did forms to the best advantage. There was one 
among them that struck my fancy more than the rest : 
he was of a dark cream color, and of quite a largo 
stature. "When he first saw me, he looked a mo- 
ment, gave a snort, ran a short distance, then stop- 
ped and looked again. I thought to myself how I 
would like to have a lasso around his neck, and a 
saddle on his back. 

The Mexicans catch these mustangs, and break 
them to the saddle with great facility. It is done in 
this manner. The lasso is put over his head, the end 
being fixed with a noose. They then let him bound 
to the extent of the rope — about fifteen or more feet 
— ^when a skillful pull throws the horse upon his back. 
This is repeated, until the horse evidently understands 
that he is not at liberty, when resistance generally 
ceases. The man then gathers up his rope, and, with 
a light bound, vaults on his bare back. He then uses 
the rope as a bridle, and urges him on with whip and 



IN MEXICO. 157 

voice until he is fairly wearied out. Then the animal 
is saddled and bridled, and he is again urged forward. 
One day is sufficient to break even the most stubborn 
mustang. 

These ponies are used only for riding, being too 
small to work to any advantage. They are never 
over eleven or twelve hands high ; and although well 
made, they are not capable of attaining great speed, 
although they have considerable wind. They are full 
of action, and capable of enduring great hunger and 
thirst. The Mexican saddle is large and heavy ; the 
wood-work is massive, and the amount of leather is 
enormous. The stirrups are large, and made of 
wood ; a large housing lies behind on the haunches, 
entirely covering them. If it is of leather, it is gen- 
erally ornamented with silver, but it is sometimes 
covered with bear skin. The Mexicans always arm 
their heels with a huge pair of heavy, blunt spurs, 
with which they are constantly goading the ani- 
mal's side. I have seen spurs the rowels of which 
were six inches in diameter, and the shank in propor- 
tion ; and attached to this shank were little bits of 
steel, which the motion of the foot caused to jingle 
like so many small bells. But the bit is still more 
cruel. The part that goes into the mouth turns up 
in the form of a link in a chain ; in the upper end 
of this is fastened a large ring, which goes round the 
under jaw, so that a sudden jerk is very liable to 
break it short off. And when the animal is under 
any speed, reining short up will throw him back on 
his haunches. This often destroys the horse's mouth, 
as the heavy saddle and accouterments spoil the back. 



158 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I have seen saddles and bridles that cost eight hund- 
red dollars. A part of the seat, pommel, and stirrups 
was solid silver ; but from ten tc seventy-five dollars 
is a common price. 



IN MEXICO. 159 



CHAPTER YII. 

Patatlan. — Dating Scheme. — Career of Ciriacco Gomez. — Escape 
from his Proposal. — Departure from Patatlan at Midnight. — Arrive 
at Leon. — Incidents there. — Suspicions of the Commandante. — 
How removed. — Raising the Wind. — Rescued from Danger by a 
Priest. — Description of Leon. — Donkeys. — Mules. — Gloomy Pros- 
pects. — Nocturnal Alarm. — Road to Lagos. — The Mail. — Elysian 
Scene. — Arrive at Lagos. — A dangerous Acquaintance. — Unexpect- 
ed Generosity. — Fruits. — Beating the Rounds. 

We pursned our way near the mountains until 
we were past the second ranch, when we took the 
main road. Being now beyond all danger from the 
alcalde of Calais, we jogged on until after dark, when 
we reached a place called Patatlan. 

"We here related the incidents of our journey of the 
two previous days, and showed our passports. On 
telling of our destitution, a private gentleman gen- 
erously offered us a supper, lodging, and breakfast. 
On his hospitality, therefore, we trespassed for the 
night. Our new-found friend conversed with us un- 
til late at night ; and we related to him the reception 
we had met with on the preceding night at Calais, 
as well as the dangers of the day before. In reply, 
he said that the road through which we had passed 
was indeed very dangerous, but not more so than a 
portion of the country through which we were yet to 
go. He said that the government was then so utterly 
destitute of the means to disperse these bandits, that 



160 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

they had organized m large bands in every section 
of the conntry, and were daily committing their dep- 
redations on quiet and unoffending citizens with im- 
punity. Even officers of the government v^ere some- 
times found to be in league with them. In proof of 
this, he related the following incident : 

About two years before, a detachment of troops at- 
tacked and routed a band of these robbers, taking 
many of them prisoners. They marched them to the 
nearest village, to put them in the carcel or jail. On 
arriving there, the commanding officer inquired for 
the alcalde ; he, however, was not to be found. After 
a while a man stepped up, and, pointing to one of the 
prisoners, said, there was the alcalde. Such proved 
to be the fact ; and he was taken, together with his 
comrades, to the capital, tried, and executed. Our 
host further remarked that he had no doubt what- 
ever but that the alcalde of Calais was also connected 
with robbers. 

About ten o'clock at night, the usual hour for sup- 
per with the Mexicans, a hearty one was brought us ; 
and a good bed was then furnished us, on which we 
passed a comfortable night. 

The next morning our kind host urged us to stay 
and rest all that day, so as to travel on the following 
morning with renewed vigor. This we consented to 
do, the more readily as we were in hopes of finding 
some travelers who were going the same route. After 
breakfast he accompanied us round the town, asking 
his friends to assist us either with money, clothes, or 
provisions. He represented to them the ill luck that 
had befallen us on the road. We were consequently 



IN MEXICO. 161 

well provided with money, and furnished with some 
clothes, and a blanket was given to each of us. 

During the day I saw a man who formerly had 
been a soldier in the Mexican army, and was in the 
hospital at San Juan a part of the time that I was 
there, and who well knew me. His name was Ciri- 
acco Groraez. I was struck dumb with alarm when 
first I saw him. He recognized me at the same time 
I did him ; and my doom, I now thought, was sealed. 
He, however, came up to me, and cordially shook me 
by the hand. He then stated to the by-standers that 
he knew me well, that I was a good soldier, and de- 
served their greatest sympathy. This course was 
mysterious to me, the more so as I expected to have 
been betrayed by him. Some scheme most evidently 
was in his head, in which he wished me to join. This 
was the only way in which I could solve the problem. 

After a while he asked me to go to his house with 
him ; this I accordingly did. "When there, he placed 
before me some brandy, and urged me to drink. In 
a few moments he inquired where I was going. J 
replied to Gruadalajara. He asked if I had got a 
passport. I replied I had. He then asked how I 
had got away from San Juan del Rio, where he first 
became acquainted with me ; also, what was my ob- 
ject in going away, &c., &c. To all these questions 
I gave such answers as I thought best. " Now," 
says he, " I well know that your object is to get to 
some sea-port, and go on board some American ves- 
sel." Thinking it was perfectly useless to deny what 
were my real intentions any longer, I candidly ac- 
knowledged that, as the Mexican government refused 



162 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

to give me up when an exchange was made, I was 
therefore determined to liberate myself by going to 
the Pacific Ocean and taking refuge on board an 
American man-of-war. I then appealed to his honor 
as a man not to betray me. He asked me if I was 
willing to save myself, and make myself and comrade 
rich and independent for life. " Now," thought I, 
" the secret is oozing out." He then said that he 
had an enterprise on foot, which if I and my comrade 
would join, he would take a solemm oath not to be- 
tray me, but afford every possible facility in effecting 
my escape to the Pacific. It was, he said, a short 
enterprise, but attended with great danger ; yet, with 
his plan of operations, he thought it must be attend- 
ed with complete success. 

From the character of the man, I knew he contem- 
plated some desperate attempt. He had been long 
in the army, was all through the wars with Texas, 
was present at the massacres of Groliad and the Ala- 
mo, and had long sustained the character of a reck- 
less dare-devil. He himself had related his adven- 
tures to me while we were together in the hospital. 
After a few moments' silence, he proceeded to detail 
the nature of the business in which he wished me to 
engage. It appears that it is usual to transport from 
G-uadalajara to the city of Mexico all the specie that 
has been coined at the former place. This is done 
also from the other mining districts. It is sent gen- 
erally at the end of every three months, and frequent- 
ly amounts to a million of dollars, or even more. It 
is packed on mules, and sent in charge of a strong 
escort, amounting to a hundred or a hundred and 



IN MEXICO. 163 

fifty men. Gomez had conceived the project of cap- 
turing one of these conductas, as they are called. He 
had spies employed in the capital, frcon whom he re- 
ceived notice that one was expected to start in ahout 
a week from that time, and in two weeks would be 
where we then were, in charge of a colonel and one 
hundred men. This he had resolved to take, and he 
wanted ahout one hundred and fifty men, nearly all 
of whom he had already engaged. He offered me 
and my comrade a command if we would join in the 
scheme. 

The place of attack he fully described, so that I 
recognized it as I passed through it the next day. It 
was a narrow and deep ravine, thickly lined with 
chapparal bushes on each side, and some twenty rods 
in extent. His company was to be divided into three 
divisions. One was to lie in ambush at each end, 
and the thkd, commanded by himself, was to occupy 
the bushes in the ravine. When the conducta had 
fairly entered, a signal was to be given and a charge 
made. The divisions occupying the entrances were 
to advance and prevent any from making their es- 
cape. The escort being thus hemmed in on all sides, 
success must have been certain. 

After he had detailed all his plans to me, I re- 
quested time to consider the matter, to consult my 
comrade, &c., and agreed to meet him the next night, 
when a full and explicit answer should be given. I 
also stipulated that we should better not meet or be 
seen together during the next day. To this he agreed, 
and we then separated, not, however, till he had forced 
me to take another drink of his brandy. 



164 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I went back to the house of my kind host, where 
I found my comrade aheady awaiting me with con- 
siderable anxiety, and, strange to say, perfectly so- 
ber. To him I related the nature of the conversa- 
tion I had had with Ciriacco Gromez on his promise 
of secrecy. I then told him I was an escaped pris- 
oner, and that I had been recognized as such by that 
man. We determined not to join him, at all events, 
but to escape out of town as speedily as possible. I 
looked out into the streets, and on ihe corner I saw 
the man I now most dreaded. He appeared to be on 
the watch, and I concluded it was of course for me. 
I did not appear to be confused nor any way discon- 
certed, although my situation was now a most trying 
one. Should he denounce me to the authorities, 
death, certain and inevitable, would be my doom. I, 
however, boldly walked up to him, made some com- 
monplace remark, and passed on. 

As I had till the next night to give an answer, I 
was in hopes of making my escape. As it was now 
near night, I resolved to discover, if possible, some 
mode of getting away unperceived, should I happen 
to be watched. I then returned to the house where 
we stayed, and went into the yard to see if it com- 
municated with any other streets. Unfortunately, it 
did not. We then got on the top of the wall and 
saw another garden, and beyond a yard which led to 
one of the back streets. This was just what we want- 
ed, and our plan was then quickly formed. This was 
to be our place of egress after dark. We then in- 
formed our host that it was necessary for us to leave 
that night. He urged for an explanation why we 



IN MEXICO. 165 

must needs travel in the night. This we could not 
give ; but, seeing that our anxiety was great, he no 
longer hesitated, and kindly gave his consent. We 
then told him the way that we should go, and asked 
him, as a great favor to us, to keep our departure en- 
tirely still, at least during the next day. This he 
readily promised. We also asked him to say, should 
he he questioned relative to our departure and route, 
that we had gone over the mountains, there being 
another road that led to G-uadalajara. By this means 
I was in hopes of so completely deceiving the man 
that he would not obtain any clew as to where I was 
until I was entirely out of his reach. 

Between eleven and twelve o'clock at night all be- 
came still, and our good and kind friend led us into 
the back yard. We then scaled the wall, and jumped 
down into the garden on the opposite side. From 
that we went into another yard, and thence into the 
highway. Our friend conducted us through the town, 
put us on the road that we were to travel, bade us 
good-by, and returned. I would here remark that 
the sword which I found in the meson at Calais I 
had succeeded in bringing with me without detection. 
This was my only hope should I be molested in my 
flight. As we had had a good rest, we traveled on as 
fast as possible. The cool weather, and being some- 
what excited with fear, caused us to make good head- 
way, and with but little fatigue. We determined, 
should we have it in our power, to give warning to 
the commanding officer of this conducta of the threat- 
ened danger. 

I will now relate a part of the adventures of Ciri- 



166 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

acoo G-omez, as he himself told them to me when in 
the hospital of San Juan del Rio. He was born in the 
State of Durango. His parents, though not wealthy, 
were in comfortable circumstances. They gave him 
as good an education as that part of the country af- 
forded ; but he was of such a heedless and reckless 
disposition that he was always in some difficulty. 
When about the age of sixteen he killed one of his 
father's peons, in consequence of which act he was 
forced to fly from home. At that time the war be- 
tween Mexico and Texa,s was raging with extreme 
ferocity and vindictiveness. "Here was a field," he 
remarked, his eyes shining like two balls of fire, "in 
which my love of daring adventure could be gratified 
to the full." He at once enlisted in the cavalry, and 
forthwith marched for Texas. 

By his address, dexterity, and daring courage, he 
soon attracted the notice of his general, by whom he 
was frequently employed as a scout. His manner of 
proceeding on these expeditions is worth relating. He 
used, he said, to mount his horse after sunset, and 
ride very cautiously toward the Texan lines, but not 
near enough to be discovered. As soon as it was 
dark, he would gradually approach nearer, and then 
creep on the side of his horse, by putting his knee in 
the stirrup leather, and letting his horse feed round 
just as he chose. In this position he would remain 
until he had ascertained all that he wished in regard 
to the force, position, &c., of the enemy. He would 
then move to another point, and repeat the same pro- 
cess. Thus he always obtained exact information rel- 
ative to the force and disposition of the Texan army. 



m MEXICO, 167 

On one of these occasions, however, he came very- 
near losing his life. He had approached rather too 
near the enemy's lines ; some motion v^as made by 
the horse which caused some of his accouterments to 
rattle. This excited the attention of the sentry, who 
was not more than thirty feet fi:om him. It was a 
dark night, but yet the horse could be seen, although, 
as it was only a horse, it was not challenged by the 
sentry. When this noise was heard, however, his 
suspicions were aroused. The sergeant of the guard 
was called ; he came, looked at the horse, and, sus- 
pecting that something was wrong, fired into him. 
The animal bounded, ran a short distance, and fell 
dead, (xomez then left him, and ran with all his 
speed ; but he was pursued, and fired at several 
times. He finally escaped, however, and unhurt. 

He was now promoted to a lieutenancy, and per- 
mitted to take the separate and independent com- 
mand of about fifty men, whose duty it was to hover 
around the lines of the enemy, and do them what 
damage they could, and also to give information rela- 
tive to any of their movements. When acting in this 
capacity, he said that he never took any prisoners, 
but always killed every one who might chance to fall 
into his hands. "In short," said he, "it was a war 
of extermination." 

At length he had a quarrel with his commander, 
and, in his anger, struck him. He was then tried 
by a court-martial, cashiered, and again put in the 
ranks. He was afterward at the battle of the Alamo, 
and took an active part in that horrible massacre ; he 
also shared in that horrid alBfray where the noble Fan- 



168 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ning and his brave companions v^ere brutally mur- 
dered after they had surrendered, and after the Mexi- 
can commander had passed his word of honor that 
they should not only be saved, but protected from any 
ill usage. He was also with Ampudia when he in- 
vested Mier, then held by the brave Greneral G-reen. 
Having been so severely wounded that he was unable 
to continue any longer in the army, he was left at 
San Juan in the hospital. He was wounded between 
Vera Cruz and Mexico in a fight with the Americans. 

While in the army, G-omez had traversed the en- 
tire length and breadth of Mexico. In proof of some 
of his remarks, he showed me one day numerous scars 
that he had received in the several engagements in 
which he had taken part. I frequently asked him if 
he thought it was honorable to conduct a war in the 
brutal and savage manner which his countrymen had 
pursued in Texas. He replied that all was fair in 
war ; that any means by which a general could se- 
cure ultimate victory was the proper course for him 
to pursue ; and if these bloody massacres would be 
productive of ultimate benefit, the commander was 
excusable to order them. 

Our road was to-day most of the way level, and 
we traveled on without any interruption. "We met 
occasionally a ranchero, who would look quite cross 
at us, and then pass on. About ten in the morning 
we came to the ravine already spoken of as the place 
where the contemplated robbery was to take place. 
It was, indeed, an admirable location for such a deed. 
It was my intention, if we met this escort, to warn 
the officer of this place, and the intended attack ; but, 



IN MEXICO. 169 

unfortunately, I never met him, nor do I now know 
any thing further of this enterprise. With regard 
uO this man's motives for trying to enlist me with 
him in this scheme, I can only say the prohable rea- 
son was, that, knowing the character of the Ameri- 
cans to be bold and daring, he thought our exam- 
ple at the head of his band would be attended with 
the most happy consequences. He also most likely 
thought, as he well knew my situation, that, should he 
threaten to expose me, I would rather join him than 
be denounced, tied to a stake, and shot. He little 
understood the workings of my mind, however ; for, 
at the very moment of his making this proposal, I 
was revolving in my mind the chances for escape ; 
and after he had revealed to me his future intentions, 
I no longer stood in the same fear that I previously 
did, for I could as easily prove him a robber as he 
could prove me an escaped prisoner. I, however, did 
fear that he would discover I had gone before the 
time I had promised to meet him should arrive, and 
that he would send some of his men either to kill me 
and my companion, or to bring us safely back ; but we 
arrived safe at Leon about three in the afternoon. 

"When we first entered the town a gentleman met 
us, of whom we inquired the way to the office of the 
commandante. He directed us to follow him. We 
did so, and he conversed with us on the way relative 
to our journey, &c. At length he stopped at a large 
and splendid house, and knocked for admittance. 
The door was soon opened by the porter. On enter- 
ing, we were directed to take a seat in the corridor 
while he went to speak to the commandante. In a 

H 



170 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

few moments he returned, accompanied by that offi- 
cer. We showed him our passports ; he simply read 
them, and then, without countersigning, returned 
them. They then bid us follow them ; for what pur- 
pose they did this I can not say. We went, howev- 
er, and they took us down to the lower end of the 
city ; they there entered a large and well-built house, 
and directed us to take seats just on the outside of the 
door leading to the main room. Within this room a 
large company of gentlemen had collected, and, from 
the noise that was made, they appeared to be enjoy- 
ing themselves very freely. Now we would hear a 
Champagne bottle break ; tumblers would be thrown 
about, and then all hands would join in singing songs. 
In the mean time a cup of good coffee had been served 
up to us, which, in our wearied state, was very ac- 
ceptable. 

From the time of our first sitting down there we 
saw a gentleman standing in the door, apparently list- 
ening to w^hat we had to say. It occurred to me at 
once that this man understood English, and was tak- 
ing this means to find out whether or not we were 
what we represented ourselves to be, and this evi- 
dently was the object in bringing us here. We at 
once regulated our conversation accordingly. It will 
be remembered that I always represented myself as 
an Irishman, for that people at that time stood high- 
er in the estimation of the Mexicans than any other 
nation. The principal reason was that the Irish were 
known to be mostly Roman Catholics, and oppressed 
by a Protestant government ; this excited all their 
sympathies in favor of the poor Irish. Another rea- 



IN MEXICO. 171 

son was, a report that a large British force was com- 
ing to assist the Mexicans, and was then lying at 
Havana. This report had become almost universal 
in this section of the country ; and they frequently 
told me, with great confidence and glee, how they 
would drive the Americans from then* soil as soon as 
the British army should make a landing, which would 
be at no distant day. These reports I had little con- 
fidence in, yet policy induced me to acquiesce in all 
they said. 

As soon as I discovered this man listening at the 
door, we commenced talking about "swate Ireland," 
our anxiety to get to Tepic, where was a British con- 
sul, &c. ; then we turned the conversation on the ex- 
pected invasion of the British army. We had con- 
versed on this subject some time, when he for whose 
benefit we were rehearsing this story came out and 
began to talk with us. He asked us all manner of 
questions relative to the American forces, their move- 
ments, &c., and then asked if Greneral Scott was 
aware of the British coming to the aid of the Mexi- 
cans. I told him that if it indeed was a fact, he 
could not be ignorant of it. He then asked what 
course Scott would pursue. I replied that he would 
hold all the places he then occupied until forced to 
leave them, and that, from the character of the man, 
I thought he would fight every inch of the ground be- 
fore he would abandon it. 

I do not now recollect all he said, but he had quite 
a long conversation with us. Soon after he went in, 
the two gentlemen who conducted us thither came 
out, and went with us to the commandante's house ; 



172 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

tlience they sent us to a meson where we could stay- 
all night. The landlord gave us a good room, and a 
nice mat to sleep on, and seemed to take great pleas- 
ure m making us comfortable. 

By this time both my comrade and myself were 
out of shoes and clothing. I, however, was better off 
than he was, for I had some pieces of leather to tie 
on my feet ; but he, poor fellow, was just about bare- 
foot, and his feet were now so very sore that he was 
almost entirely disabled from walking. I therefore 
determined to make some extra exertions to procure 
him a pair. I then started to go round the city and 
raise some money. I went into all the houses of the 
priests, showed them my passport, and they, be it said 
to their honor, gave with a liberal hand. From them 
I went to the merchants, and so successful was I, that 
in two hours' time I had raised some three dollars. 
I then went back to the meson with a pair of shoes. 
On my arrival there, I saw two men apparently 
having high words about something ; I soon fcmnd it 
was about us. One had said that we were spies, and 
should have been hanged as such long before this. 
The other defended us. Finally they came to blows ; 
knives were drawn, and the affray might have term- 
inated fatally to one or the other, had not the land- 
lord at this moment entered and drove them both out 
of the yard. This scene alarmed me not a little, for 
I had good reason to think that if the common people 
felt unfriendly toward us, our lives were in great dan- 
ger. I, however, thought best to be on my guard, 
and not betray any symptoms of fear or distrust. 
This course subsequently proved to be the best; for 



IN MEXICO. 173 

in the evening, as I was going through the Plaza, a 
mob collected round me, and began to throw dirt and 
stones, crying, " Curse the Yankees." I paid no at- 
tention to them, but, seeing a priest a short distance 
from me, I went up to him and begged his protection. 
He at once knew me, having seen me before that day. 
He turned to the crowd that was following, and or- 
dered them to be gone, at the same time addressing 
them in language stronger perhaps than became a 
man whose business it was to stand between fallen 
man and his Maker. But it had a good effect on his 
hearers, for they at once ceased their abuse and in- 
sults, and sneaked off about their business. My kind 
protector then invited me to his house, and gave me 
a cup of chocolate. He then asked what money I 
had, and also how much clothing, &o. By way of 
answer, I showed him my shoes ; and as my shirt 
showed nothing of its former shape or color, he no- 
ticed that also. At the same time^ he seemed anxious 
to make me forget the unpleasant adventure that I 
had met with in the streets. He then sent for a pair 
of shoes, and left me a moment. He soon returned 
with a shirt and a coat, and his servant brought in 
my shoes. This supply furnished me tolerably well, 
and I soon took my leave. To secure me from fur- 
ther abuse, the priest sent with me his servant as a 
guard and guide, and we soon reached the meson, 
where my comrade was anxiously awaiting my ar- 
rival. He had heard of this rabble in the Plaza, and, 
being of a timorous disposition, he concluded, as I did 
not return at once, that I had been killed. 

I must here remark, that the conduct of this priest 



174 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

was not an exception, or different from that of his 
class ; they were all uniformly generous, and in vari- 
ous ways strove to relieve our necessities ; and during 
all my travels in Mexico, I now can remember only 
one instance in which a priest turned a deaf ear to 
our application for assistance, and that one showed 
the miser and the brute in his countenance. But the 
character of the priests I will discuss at a future time. 

I have hitherto said but little about the appearance 
of many of the towns that I passed through. The 
reason is this : there is a uniformity and sameness 
in them all, that would obviate the necessity of de- 
scribing them. Leon, however, stands alone, and is 
in many respects different from the rest. It stands 
on a level, open plain, and for some distance around 
it there is nothing to obstruct the sight. Then large 
mountains rear their lofty heads, completely surround- 
ing the valley ; and, from the appearance of these 
mountains, there is no place presented to the eye 
where egress could be had from this city by any other 
way than ascending and descending them. There 
are some few cultivated fields, but the land is mostly 
barren. 

The city is supplied with wood from the mount- 
ains. It is brought in on donkeys, which are very nu- 
merous here. I have often seen them moving along 
with a sort of rocking motion, loaded with hay or 
corn-stalks, and so completely covered up that noth- 
ing could be seen but the load they carried. We 
could see the load rock and move, but nothing that 
caused this motion, except sometimes the donkey's 
tail whisking about behind. They are gentle and 



IN MEXICO. 175 

very docile. Children ride them without bridle or 
halter, just jumping on, almost always sitting on the 
hind quarters. They use a club, and guide the creat- 
ures by thumping them on either side of the head. 
This manner of guiding them does very well until 
some green fodder or other tempting morsel meets 
the brute's eye, when all the thumps and pounding 
on the head they can bestow avails nothing. Then 
all the rider has to do is to slide doA^^oi over the tail, 
and by main force push him away. 

These animals are never used except as beasts of 
burden ; they carry water, wood, grain, and even fur- 
niture in removing. They are mostly owned by the 
poorer classes, who are not able to have mules or 
horses. They are generally driven in numbers. One 
man on foot takes charge of the whole, who, with a 
short club, thumps and pounds the refractory or the 
loitering ass, all the while uttering tesh ! tesh ! This 
sound comprises all the vocabulary for driving don- 
keys, and answers for go on, or stop. "When they 
turn them, they go to the head and push them the 
way they wish to go. 

The mules of this country are smaller than ours, 
and are used entirely for carrying packs ; they usu- 
ally carry a weight of four hundred pounds. Some- 
times a good riding mule may be found ; but this 
class commands an exorbitant price. It is customary 
for all owners of horses or mules to brand them ; and 
these brands are good evidence of ownership, and can 
not be invalidated. When one purchases a mule or 
horse, he heats his iron, and joins it to one of the ex- 
tremities of the other mark, and burns on the hide 



176 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

the shape of the iron. Every man has a different 
marky which is always recorded in the alcalde's office. 
In case a dispute should arise relative to ownership, 
reference is had to the alcalde, who examines the 
mark that was last made, and whoever owns this 
keeps the animal. I have seen horses with the neck 
and hind legs and hips completely covered with these 
hrands. Should any one purchase an animal, and 
not put his mark on him, the last owner can claim 
him and hold him. 

It is by means of donkeys and mules that com- 
merce is carried on in the interior. They go in cara- 
vans, and {reqaeiithf traverse the entire length and 
breadth of Mexico. This mode of transportation, to- 
gether with the high duties, makes goods of all kinds 
very high. 

I see that I have unwittingly wandered from my 
subject. I was giving a description of Leon. It re- 
ceives its supply of wood from the mountains, and 
most of its provisions from other places, as enough is 
not raised in the valley to supply its wants. A good 
stream of water runs by one side of it. The place 
is regularly laid out, and well built. Round the 
Plaza the buildings are as well finished as any I have 
seen in Mexico. Its Cathedral is its greatest boast. 
This is a large and massive building; but, as I saw 
it only after sunset, and then very imperfectly, I can 
give no just description of it. I saw enough, how- 
ever, to know that it is as large as any I have seen, 
with but two exceptions. 

While here I had given me an American half dol- 
lar. This was the first coin of my own country that 



IN MEXICO. 177 

I had seen for some time, and it brought back mem- 
ories of the past. My old associations in the States 
were remembered at that moment, and the scenes 
through which I had passed since presented them- 
selves to my mind as fresh as though they were of 
yesterday's occurrence. My mind then plunged into 
futurity, as though to ascertain what was yet in store 
for me. Long and gloomy was the road before me 
before I could possibly consider myself safe, yet I 
was not discouraged ; and the confidence which had 
sustained me so far, I determined should not leave 
m.e now. 

I had by this time become almost worn out, and it 
seemed as though I could stand it but little longer. 
The weather was getting hotter and hotter every day. 
Our course now was nearly south ; the rainy season 
had passed, and the sun poured down its rays with 
intense heat. Our sufferings from this cause, added 
to that of thirst, were becoming very great. This 
may readily be conceived when I state the condition 
in which my feet were a few days before arriving at 
this place. I then had a pair of shoes ; but so hot 
had the weather become, that my constant walking 
had blistered my feet all over ; and so sore were they, 
that I was forced to cut the uppers off, and with 
strings tie the soles to my feet. In this condition 
I had walked several days. They were far from be- 
ing well now ; but they were so much better that I 
could, with some comfort, wear the shoes that were 
given me by the priest. My limbs were stiff and sore, 
a consequence of my great exposure ; yet there was 
no rest. On, on we traveled ; but how we were en- 
H2 



178 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

abled to travel the distance we did every day is a 
mystery to me even now. Our daily marches ranged 
from seven to fifteen leagues. 

To resume my narrative. Some little time after 
we had gone to sleep in the room given us, we were 
awakened hy a loud rapping at the door. They seem- 
ed to be determined to break into the room. I got 
up, went to the door, and inquired who was there. 
No answer was returned. I had previously fastened 
the door, so that it could not be broken in or forced ; 
yet I was a little alarmed when I remembered the 
violent altercation in the yard, just before night, rela- 
tive to us ; still, I determined to see who it was that 
was thumping on our door in this manner. So I took 
the sword that I brought from Calais, unbarred the 
door, and went out. Not a soul was to be seen. I 
then went back again, intending, should my noctur- 
nal visitor come again, to let him stand at the door 
and rap till morning. I then bolted the door and 
went to sleep. 

In the morning, when we got up, we found the 
yard nearly empty. The travelers had gone, and 
their servants were packing up the mules ready for 
a start. We were informed that the road to Lagos, 
whither we should go that day, was very much in- 
fested with robbers. It was mountainous most of the 
way, and very rough. The whole of it was a fit place 
for the rendezvous of bandits. "We looked round to 
find some one that was going the same way, but none 
could be found. We then started alone. 

For a short distance the road was level, but when 
we came to the mountahis it was rough in the extreme. 



IN MEXICO. 179 

It was all climbing hills, and then descending. For 
some distance there was scarcely any appearance of 
a track ; in fact, we had to jump from rock to rock. 

The distance to Lagos was fifteen leagues, and 
during the entire day we saw not a house or place fit 
for a human being to dwell in. Large herds of wild 
horses were seen pasturing around us on every side ; 
we likewise saw several deer. These animals did not 
seem to be much alarmed at our appearance, but 
would stand and look at us, though at a respectful 
distance, as unconcerned as though they had been 
brought up by our own hand. Looking up the mount- 
ain on one side of us, we saw a large black bear slow- 
ly ascending, as though he thought the presence of 
man so near him was any thing but comfortable. 
This was the second animal of the kind I had seen in 
Mexico. -*^ 

Our road now varied a little, inasmuch as it was 
not so rough. There was a foot-path, but on each 
side was dense chapparal, preventing us from seeing 
to any great distance ; neither was it possihle for us 
to lose our way, for out of the path we could not 
move ten rods without tearing our clothes and lac- 
erating our flesh most sadly. I do not think that this 
is the main road from G-uadalajara to Mexico ; in 
fact, it could not be, for no stage could possibly be 
taken through here, and there is one running three 
times a week between those two cities. 

The mail between the smaller towns is carried on 
foot. They have no post-offices, except in the larger 
cities. The alcalde, or the highest officer, always 
acts as postmaster. To show the amount of oorre- 



180 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

spondehce that is carried on, I v^ill relate one cir- 
cumstance, though I shall anticipate by doing so. 
While in Amatlan, I saw the mail come in and open- 
ed ; there were hut three letters in it. This is a place 
of about one thousand inhabitants, and has a mail 
once a month. More of this hereafter. 

Our road, during the latter part of the day, was 
more level, and the country showed some signs of 
being inhabited, as large herds of sheep and cattle 
were seen, though we saw not a house or cultivated 
field. Toward night we passed several droves of don- 
keys, which were going the same way that we were. 
At last we found one drove that was not loaded. Of 
the drivers we asked and obtained permission to ride, 
at the same time promising to pay them. We mount- 
ed and rode some ten miles. As we were much fa- 
tigued, this was a great relief. 

>^i^t length we came in sight of Lagos, though yet 
it was a great way off. When within five miles of 
that place, the Mexix3ans wished to go another direc- 
tion ; I paid four shillings for our ride, and, with many 
thanks, we parted. At some distance we saw sev- 
eral large haciendas and ranches ; large and well- 
cultivated fields now cheered the eye ; and this scene, 
in contrast with the portion we had come through, 
looked really beautiful and interesting. 

About four o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at 
Lagos. Some time before reaching the city we 
passed by several extensive gardens, filled with large 
quantities of fruit of the most delicious quality. On 
each side of the road were high walls, but within 
these, oranges, lemons, and plantains grew to perfec- 



IN MEXICO. 181 

tion, forming a perfect shade and pleasant walk. The 
odor from these various kinds of fruit was most de- 
licious. But as yet not a house could be seen, as 
they were built back from the road, the trees and 
wall hiding them from view. 

Just at the suburbs of the city there is a river 
some twenty rods wide, which we had to ford ; but at 
this place it was very shallow, not over our shoes. 
Both above and below the city it is deeper, and the 
reason of its being so shallow here is because it pass- 
es over such an extent of ground. We soon waded 
over, entered the city, and inquired the way to the of- 
fice of the commandante. On our way thither, while 
before a large and splendid building, we observed sev- 
eral gentlemen standing round. As soon as we came 
opposite, one of them addressed us in good English, 
and invited us to come in. We were taken into an 
office, when we discovered that the gentleman .who 
had spoken to us was an officer of some rank in the 
army. He asked us where we were now from ; we 
answered, from Mexico, and were now going to Ma- 
zatlan to take a vessel to our own country. He then 
asked if we were Irish. My comrade did all the 
talking now, and replied we were. He then asked 
whence we had deserted — from Monterey ? Here I 
will remark that some thhty or forty had deserted 
from our army at Monterey. My comrade also stated 
that we first came to San Luis Potosi. He then in- 
quired if we recollected the officer who received us 
at San Luis, and if we saw him now would we know 
him? My comrade was getting into rather a short 
corner; for I well knew that he had never been at 



183 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

San Luis, and from the manner of his asking these 
questions, I suspected that our interrogator himself 
was there at that time, and did this duty. I also 
thought that I had seen him when I was confined in 
the jail in that city. From these considerations, as 
my comrade hesitated in answering, I replied, that 
if I was not much mistaken, he was the officer who 
did that duty. He then said that he was. We then, 
at his request, related many of our adventures since 
that time, all of which were true, hut they applied 
to others, and not to us ; I had heard them related, 
however, and, for the present, borrowed them. He 
then said that he would give us a letter to his father 
in Guadalajara before we went away, and requested 
us to call on him in the evening. "We then took our 
leave, feeling quite elated at our good fortune. 

On inquiring for the commandante, we were di- 
rected to a building across the street ; we went in 
there, and found it to be a billiard-room. It was full 
of gentlemen, and they seemed to be very much in- 
terested in a game then playing. "We soon saw the 
man for whom we inquired, showed him our pass- 
ports, and asked him where we could sleep that night. 
He directed us to a meson a short distance off, and 
requested a young man to take us there. The per- 
son addressed started off with us ; but, instead of 
going there, he went up to the further end of the 
town to his father's house. As we entered, the old 
gentleman arose and received us with the utmost cor- 
diality. His wife seemed very much pleased with 
the privilege of entertaining us. The old gentleman, 
it seems, was a teaclier of languages, and some of his 



IN MEXICO. 183 

scholars were in when we entered ; these he soon dis- 
missed, and commenced a conversation with us. As 
I alone conld talk Spanish so as to be understood, 
his conversation was mostly directed to me. 

He asked ahout my country, its productions, cli- 
mate, improvements, &c. By his questions, he show- 
ed a very good knowledge of the United States. I 
represented to him that the United States was my 
native country, though I was of Irish descent. It 
was a very painful task for me to prevaricate and 
evade the truth as I did. Still, self-preservation was 
an absolute master. He soon brought us some bread 
and coffee, and then took us to see his garden and 
fruit orchard, where the most delicious fruit was 
given us to eat. His whole grounds occupied some 
two acres ; and the income derived from the sale of 
his fruit must have been considerable, notwithstand- 
ing the low rate at which it sold. The fruit grew at 
all seasons of the year, the trees being in blossom, 
and having green and ripe fruit on. Oranges were 
sold at the rate of sixteen for a sixpence, and plant- 
ains at the same rate. The supply never fails ; and 
all kinds of fruit, of the very best quality, may be had 
for a mere trifle. 

I could not but admire the tasteful manner in 
which this garden was arranged. "Wide, graveled 
walks led through every part of it. In the center 
was a fountain, and around it were seats placed in a 
circular form. The whole was shaded by several 
large tamarind-trees. If any thing could reconcile 
me to a life in Mexico, it would be a residence in a 
place like this. 



184 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

It v^as now after sunset, and it was time to go 
and see the officer who had so kindly offered us let- 
ters to his father. The young man to whose kind- 
ness we were indebted, for this recepti@a accompanied 
us to his office. He was not there when we entered, 
so we sat down and waited his arrival. In about 
half an hour he returned, and at once proceeded to 
write the letter. He requested his father to procure 
us some employment, and mentioned our respective 
occupations. When he had given it to us, he said, 
" With this you will be sure to find employment." 

We soon returned to the house of our kind friend. 
Some of the neighbors came to see us, and expressed 
much sympathy at our hard lot. I had not been re- 
ceived so hospitably since my captivity, nor had so 
much pains been taken to make me forget the perils 
and difficulties of my situation ; and I can now look 
back on the kindness I here received as the only 
bright spot in a year and a half of the darkest gloom, 
a period during Avhich there was not a moment that 
I could consider my life safe. After partaking of a 
substantial supper, a bed was brought us to sleep on, 
a luxury we had not enjoyed for some time. 

Next morning the old man took us to several 
houses, and begged for money in our behalf. Among 
the rest, we called on some priests, all of whom treat- 
ed us with marked kindness ; one of them gave us 
half a dollar apiece, and some shirts. He also pro- 
nounced a benediction on us. Thence our conductor 
took us to the outside of the city to a slaughter-house, 
and introduced us to the head butcher. He gave us 
something, and then we went inside to all the work- 



IN MEXICO. 185 

men, from each of whomi we got a sixpence ;^ and 
there hemg some thu'ty workmen, we got quite a little 
sum. We then went to the stores, all of whom gave 
readily ; and by ten o'clock in the morning we had 
some eight dollars, which was quite a fortune for us. 
We now went back to the house, where a good 
breakfast was given us, and then made preparations 
for leaving. Our friends urged us to stay a day or 
two more, that our clothes might be washed, a thing 
which they needed very much. But my companion 
was obstinate and deaf to good advice, so we bid our 
friends a reluctant adieu. 

A * The currency mentioned throughout these pages is that of New 

York, of twelve and a half cents to the shilling. 



186 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER YIII. 

Departure from Lagos. — A mournful Farewell. — San Carlos. — Strata- 
gem to procure a free Ride. — The Alcalde. — Departure from San 
Carlos. — Trouble with my Companion. — Arrive at Sayula. — Relig- 
ious Celebration. — Leave Sayula, and mistake the Road. — Conse- 
quent Sufferings and Danger. — A singular Concert. — Regain the 
Road. — Meet old Fellow-travelers. — Stories about Robbei-s. — We 
disregard them, and are Robbed. — Generosity of a Bishop. — Join 
some Mexican Travelers for Protection. — Peculiar use of a Revolver. 
— Dexterity of the Mexicans in using the Lasso. — Value of Mexican 
Promises. — Delightful Sceneiy. — Arrive at Guadalajara. 

On leaving Lagos, our young friend, whose name 
was Martiniano Silva, accompanied us nearly a mile 
from the city. "We parted from him with much re- 
gret, for we had become attached to him on account 
of the many favors he had done us. He seemed anx- 
ious to do us all the good he could ; and while we 
were on our way, he inquired if there was any one 
going that road with donkeys, hoping to get a chance 
for us to ride. But he failed ; and he appeared to 
feel more disappointed than we did ourselves. "When 
we separated, he embraced us both in the Mexican 
style ; and after many wishes for our future welfare, 
he left us. 

Our course was now south; before, it had been 
nearly west. The weather had become intensely hot ; 
and as my long journeyings and great exposure had 
reduced me to a mere skeleton, I began at times to 
despair of ever reaching any sea-port, or effecting my 



IN MEXICO. 187 

escape ; I seemed to encounter new difficulties every 
day. When I first started I was well and hearty ; 
but now the reverse was the case, and several hundred 
miles were, yet to be traversed. But I pushed on 
with renewed resolution. 

About an hour after we had parted from our friend, 
a Mexican lad came running after us with all speed, 
driving some donkeys. Our friend had directed him 
to hasten and overtake us, and to let us ride. We 
gladly took advantage of this opportunity, and rode 
about ten miles, for which we paid one shilling each. 
This lift enabled us to make some thirty miles that 
day. 

The country most of the way was extremely rough, 
and, after leaving the city, I do not remember to have 
seen a single field under cultivation during the entire 
day until we reached a hacienda, where we stayed 
all night. This hacienda was called San Fernando ; 
and, from the number of houses occupied by the peons, 
I judged it to be a large one. The proprietor gave 
us a welcome, and treated us hospitably. 

Next morning we made an early start, and about 
noon we came to a stream of water, where we decid- 
ed to wash our clothes. Our custom all along had 
been to wash them, and then put them on, and let 
them dry on our backs. If this service was not done 
well, it was done as good as we could do it. 

We that day went fourteen leagues, and at night 
arrived at a small village called San Carlos. I here 
determined to employ a little stratagem, to avoid, if 
possible, walking the next day. After some study, 
I figured it all out to my satisfaction. I went to the 



188 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

alcalde v^ith my comrade, and presented our pass- 
ports. After reading them, he gave an order for us 
to be accommodated with quarters at the meson. As 
soon as I had got the order, I asked him if he could 
give us each a donkey to carry us to the next town 
on the morrow. He replied that they might be ob- 
tained by paying for them. But this answer did not 
suit my purpose. So I replied, '*Sir, you no doubt 
are aware that Greneral Santa Anna issued an order 
to all alcaldes and commandantes to afford help and 
assistance to every one of this San Patricio company 
on their way to the Pacific Ocean, both as to money 
and, so far as lies in their power, facilities for travel- 
ing." This order was countersigned by the govern- 
ment, and was the last act they did before leaving 
Mexico. He said he recollected that order very well, 
"Well, then, sir," I said, "as an officer of that com- 
pany, and by authority of this order, I demand for 
our journey to-morrow either mules or donkeys ;" and 
added, " in proof of what I say relative to my rank, 
I can show you my commission ;" and I began to fum- 
ble in my pockets, as though searching for it. He, 
however, said it was not necessary, as he was perfect- 
ly satisfied ; and he at once wrote an order for two 
donkeys to be ready in the morning, and handed it to 
one of his constables, who immediately went out. 
The alcalde then invited us to drink with him, an in- 
vitation which we accepted. 

In about thirty mmutes the constable returned, and 
informed us that the donkeys would be ready by five 
o'clock in the morning. He then went to the meson 
with us, showed us our room, and gave orders that 



IN MEXICO. 189 

we should be supplied with our meals free, or at least 
free to us. This was rather more than we had ex- 
pected, but it was not the less acceptable on that ac- 
count. After we were alone in our room, we had a 
good jollification over the success of our stratagem. 
Such an order had been given by the government, and 
the reason we had not tried its efficacy before was 
that we doubted whether it would be obeyed. 

At the time appointed our donkey-driver was at the 
door, thumping away with all his might. We soon 
turned out, got our breakfast, and, mounting our little 
animals, quickly got under way. They were so low 
that our feet almost touched the ground ; but we 
pushed on at as rapid a rate as possible, and that day 
traveled eighteen leagues. I would here mention that 
a Mexican league is less than the French, being only 
two and three quarters of a mile. Their weights and 
measures, also, are less, nearly in the same ratio. 
We that day passed several ranches and haciendas. 
The country was quite well cultivated. We passed 
several large fields of sugar-cane, and at almost every 
house they had for sale an abundance of various kinds 
of fresh fruits. 

My comrade was so overjoyed at our good fortune 
that we had gone but a little way before he began to 
drink, and before night he was very troublesome. I 
was several times so provoked with him that I was 
almost inclined to leave him behind. He was con- 
tinually quarreling either with me or our driver. 
When intoxicated, he was as deaf to reason as a block ; 
but when sober, he was so humble, and would ask 
my pardon so earnestly for what had occurred, that 



190 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I could hardly make up my mind to part from him. 
He well knew that he could not travel alone, as he 
could not speak Spanish; he therefore saw the ne- 
cessity of keeping on good terms with me. 

We reached Sayula about dusk, and at once made 
our way to the commandante, who gave us an order 
for a room at the meson ; and as it was late, we did 
not go out again. The next day being Sunday, we 
determined not to proceed very early, so we went 
into a fonda or eating-house, and ordered a breakfast. 
"While here there came to us another of the San Pa- 
tricio company, named Michael Burns, who had been 
here some time. With him my comrade was entirely 
at home, and they both drank until they were quite 
intoxicated. 

I soon saw that there was no getting away that 
day ; and as there was to be a religious celebration 
in the afternoon and evening, I was very willing to 
stay. So, having secured my room and the things 
in it, I went down to the Plaza. It was crowded 
with people, and every thing which the country af- 
forded was here exposed for sale. The town is large, 
and contains several churches and a convent. As I 
gTcatly needed shaving, I inquired for a barber's shop, 
and was directed to one. On inquiring for the barber, 
he soon appeared, dressed in the uniform of a captain 
of the infantry. The operation of shaving was pres- 
ently finished, and I then asked him if he belonged 
to the army. He said he did. I told him that in my 
country an officer in the army would consider it a 
disgrace to officiate as a barber. He made some 
vague reply to this ; and, as he seemed anxious for 



Ii\ MEXICO. 191 

me to go, I handed him the usual sixpence. He said 
it was not enough ; he required another sixpence. 
This I thought strange-; but, as he was a captain, I did 
not knovr hut he had raised his price ; so, without 
further parley, I paid it and left, feeling much hon- 
ored at being shaved by a captain. 

In the afternoon preparations were made for a 
grand display ; music was played, soldiers were drill- 
ing, and banners flying all over the city, and at three 
o'clock the great bell of the Cathedral tolled. At that 
instant a carriage, drawn by four mules, drove up in 
front of the church, and a load of fat, jolly-looking 
priests got into the vehicle. Other ecclesiastics came 
up behind, on foot ; then came a body of soldiers, and 
then a company of young ladies, carrying banners, 
foltowed by a crowd of citizens, the whole preceded 
by a brass band. The procession then advanced till 
it came opposite to the convent, where it halted. A 
large cross, with the body of Christ represented on it 
as large as life, was placed between the priests and 
soldiers. This was shaded by a silken canopy, borne 
by four priests on poles high above the image ; then, 
at the sound of music, with slow and solemn tread, 
the procession commenced perambulating the streets. 

The performance did not close till after sunset, 
when the coach again drove up to the door of the 
Cathedral. The priests alighted ; the soldiers re- 
turned to their quarters, and all was again quiet for 
a few moments. In the evening there was an exhibi- 
tion of fire-works. I now went back to the meson, 
and found that my comrade had slept off his drunken 
fit. As usual, he was very sorry for what he had done. 



192 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

In the morning v^^e made an early start. Michael 
Burns had left us at night, saying that he should go 
with us in the morning ; but, from what I had seen 
of him, I resolved that he should not ; so, when we 
started, we did not wait for his appearance. "We ad- 
vanced, as we supposed, on the road pointed out to 
us, which led us directly across the mountains ; nor 
did we find out our mistake until we had been two 
days on our journey. "We then thought it best to 
pursue the same route, as we were informed that it 
came in on the one we wished to travel in the course 
of five or six days. It took us an entire day to cross 
the mountains, guided only by a foot-path, and even 
this was sometimes so indistmct that it could hardly 
be traced. 

On this route we saw several places where mines 
had been dug, but at the present time they were not 
in operation. The history of these mines I tried to 
ascertain, but failed. That night we stopped at a 
small village, where our arrival produced the great- 
est excitement. The people appeared as though they 
had never before seen a foreigner ; they, however, did 
not molest us, but escorted us in great numbers to 
the office of the alcalde, who treated us with kind- 
ness, and gave us permission to sleep in the office. 

Next morning we started about eight o'clock. This 
valley is small and well cultivated. It is thickly in- 
habited, and yet the inhabitants appeared, for Mex- 
icans, to be well off. We traveled about ten leagues, 
when we came to a place to which we had been di- 
rected in the morning. It was a small yet beauti- 
ful town, situated in a valley surrounded on all sides 



IN MEXICO. 



by high hills. Beyond these is a beautiful and fertile 
'lain, abundantly supplied with water. The only 
drawback on this part of the country is the great 
scarcity of timber ; this, in fact, is the case with a 
great part of Mexico. 

On learning that we came from Sayula, they in- 
formed us we had come far out of our way. There 
was, however, another route by which we could get 
back into the road we had left without taking a back 
track ; but we would have to cross the mountains 
again ; and they added that this was, in fact, the only 
direct route to G-uadalajara. 

I had yet some five dollars, and I had reason to be 
glad that there was so much left ; for in these small 
towns it was impossible to obtain any more, and for 
the two last nights we had not found the people so 
hospitable as formerly. Not a cent of money would 
they give us, and we procured provisions only as we 
paid for them. The alcalde of this place even charged 
us for the room we slept in. 

In the morning we took the road pointed out to 
us, and were told that in four days we would be on 
our old road. There were no more villages to go 
through, and but few ranches or haciendas. "We fol- 
lowed our road, which was nothing more than a foot- 
path, as best we could through the chapparal, and 
that night we slept out of doors. "We had either lost 
our way, or, what is more likely, they had deceived 
us as to the distance of the place at which we should 
stop, for we did not come to it until iiooii the next 
day. "We were by this time faint with hunger, not 
having eaten any thing since the morning of the day 

I 



194 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

before. We remained here till the next morning, and 
before starting we bought provisions for two daySi 

That day we traveled ten leagues, and at night we 
encamped in the open fields at the foot of the mount- 
ains. The following morning we made an early start. 
Huge mountains lay before us, which we had to cross. 
A small path, barely discernible, was said to lead to 
the opposite side. Our ascent was toilsome in the 
extreme ; craggy rocks and steep precipices hindered 
our progress, and in some places it was so steep that 
we were forced to pull ourselves up by the bushes. 
The path could no longer be traced, and our only 
guide now was the top of the mountain. We were 
in hopes, when we arrived there, that we would be 
able to see some place that would serve as a beacon 
to direct our course ; but we did not get to the sum- 
mit till toward night, and our disappointment can be 
better imagined than described when we found there 
were other and still higher mountains yet to cross. 

Our water had given out, and no more could be 
found. We had lost our way in the midst of huge 
mountains, and were compelled to pass another night 
there amid the haunts of beasts of prey, such as the 
panther and jaguar, and of the most venomous rep- 
tiles. Not a place could be found where we could 
lie down, and the night was like Egyptian darkness. 
We had no means of building a fire, and our feelings 
were any thing but pleasant when the howling of the 
wolves, the screaming of the panthers, and the loud 
roaring of the jaguar sounded in our ears. As the 
only means of saving ourselves, we got on the top of 
a rock some ten feet high, and nearly perpendicular. 



IN MEXICO. 195 

This would afford us, we thought, a better chance to 
defend ourselves. We had come to this rock before 
dark, but did not get on it until we heard the bowl- 
ings of these animals. Here we passed a long,, 
gloomy, and dreadful night. The idea of sleeping 
never entered our minds ; nor could we have slept so 
long as this horrible concert was carried on around us. 

Toward morning it began to cease, and by day- 
light all was still. This was decidedly the longest 
night that I ever experienced. "We were constantly 
looking round to see if we could not discover some 
appearance of the approach of morning ; hour after 
hour did we watch in vain ; but at length the morn- 
ing star appeared, and soon after a few dim rays of 
light shot upward from the sun, which before long 
rose above the horizon. We now breathed freer, and 
felt ourselves safe, though we were not relieved from 
our difficulties. 

We now prepared to descend the mountain. This 
was much easier than to ascend, as we could slide, 
jump, or tumble, just as it happened ; so we got to 
the bottom by twelve o'clock. Here we found a 
stream of good water, and a path between the mount- 
ains, which I thought must lead somewhere— if not 
to the place where we wished to go, at least to some 
rancho. We followed it some three miles, when the 
mountains diverged from each other, and a most beau- 
tiful valley presented itself, extending in length as 
far as the eye could reach, but not over three or four 
miles in width. At some distance ahead we saw a 
rancho. To this we directed our way, and soon ar- 
rived there. We procured a warm breakfast, and 



196 



TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 



obtaiiied permission to remain till the next morning, 
to recover from the fatigues of the preceding night 
and day. The inhabitants, though poor, were quiet 
and inoffensive people. I related to them the adven- 
tures of the night before, when they said it was a 
mu'acle that we had not been killed, as the mountains 
were full of ferocious animals. They also said that 
the road we should have taken would not have been 
half as tedious as the way we came, and that we 
were now some twenty leagues from the road that we 
had left. We offered one of our informants a dollar 
to go with us to the other side of the mountains, and 
leave us at a place whence we might easily find the 
way to the road. This offer he accepted. 

At this ranch we had a good rest; and the next 
morning, feeling fresh and vigorous, we set off by day- 
break. Our guide did not go directly over the mount- 
ains, but took a winding route, gradually ascending, 
and then descending. He did not go over the high- 
est parts, but kept near the base. About sunset we 
got through, and our guide led us to a ranch where 
we remained that night. In the morning he showed 
us the way to the main road ; and, after paying 
him his dollar, we parted, he no doubt as much 
pleased at his gains as we were with the services 
done us. 

Our road was now mostly level, but the chapparal 
grew so thick that we could not see any distance from 
us ; we therefore guessed at our course as best we 
could, and it happened that we were right. We came 
'^0 the road about noon, and pushed on with renewed 
vigor. 



IN MEXICO. 197 

That night we came to a small town, the name of 
which I do not now recollect. The alcalde gave us 
rooms at the meson ; and here we found our old ac- 
quaintance, Michael Burns, as drunk as a lord. He 
had come in company with some Mexican officers, 
who were nearly as ragged as ourselves, and so poor 
that they begged their way as they went along. 

The next morning we started in company, and kept 
together until noon, when we arrived at San Juan de 
los Lagos. Here we presented ourselves to the au- 
thorities, and had our papers countersigned. Our 
late companions were getting rather too drunk to be 
pleasant company, so we left them. As we were go- 
ing out of town, we passed an old woman who was 
selling honey. This being the fii'st I had seen, I 
bought some, and we ate it as we passed on. This 
proceeding attracted the attention of some youngsters, 
who followed us, crying, ^^See the Yankees! see the 
Yankees .'" We turned around several times, intend- 
ing to give some of them a rap with the cane ; but 
they, considering discretion the better part of valor, 
would as often retreat to a respectful distance. At 
length we got out of the town, and the rabble left us. 

Before us was a high and very steep hill, the road 
leading to the top by winding round it. On the out- 
side of the track, which was some twenty feet wide, 
was a solid wall. "When we came to the top, a wide 
and level country was exposed to our view. No 
houses were in sight ; but seven leagues distant was 
a hacienda, as we had been told, where we resolved 
to remain all night. We arrived there after sunset, 
without any thing worthy of note having occurred. 



198 TRAVELS AND APVENTURES^ 

The proprietor generously furnished us what provi- 
sions we needed and a room to sleep in, for which he 
would take no pay. Some time after dark the com- 
pany that we had left hehind came up. We heard 
them talking, but did not speak to them, having re- 
solved to keep clear of them, if possible. 

The next morning we rose early, and started before 
they were awake, intending that day to go to Tepatat- 
lan, a long day's journey. We were here informed 
that the road was much infested with robbers, scarce- 
ly a traveler passing without being molested. This 
gave us some uneasiness ; and we were advised to 
wait for the rest, as we would be more safe in going 
in larger numbers. I, however, determined to go on, 
thinking that we would be as safe alone as in the 
company of such vagabonds ; so on we started. 

The road was well beaten and easily followed, which 
was a great advantage to us, for no houses could be 
seen on the road side at which we might inquire 
should we become bewildered. In the afternoon we 
were suddenly surrounded by six men, and before 
any resistance could be made we were thrown down 
and our hands tied behind us. Two of them stood 
with loaded guns pointed directly at us, and they 
threatened to fire should we attempt to make any re- 
sistance. As this was useless in our situation, we 
of course submitted quietly. They then proceeded 
to search our pockets, and took all our money, and all 
our clothes except what we had on ; but they left us 
our blankets, which was a great favor ; they also gave 
us some meat and tortillas ; but the gourd in which 
we carried water they appropriated to their own use. 



IN MEXICO. 199 

They then left us, without untying our hands, with 
the usual adios, caballeros (adieu, gentlemen). 

We now set to work to untie ourselves, which was 
no easy matter. By great exertions with my teeth, 
however, I managed to get my comrade loose, and 
he, in turn, loosened me from my bonds. We had 
some cigars in our pockets, and even these they took. 
The amount of money we lost was a trifle over four 
dollars ; hut the loss of our clothing vf as the greatest 
of all. This was the second time I had been rohhed, 
and the only wonder is that I had escaped so well, for 
I had repeatedly heard of murders being committed ; 
and, in fact, every day's travel furnished evidence of 
this, in the crosses that were placed beside the road. 

We looked in every direction, in the hopes of see- 
ing something of our late acquaintances ; but they 
were not in sight, having probably concealed them- 
selves behind some of the large cactuses, or in some 
deep arroyer or guUey. As we did not fear a second 
visit from them, we felt quite easy, but at the same 
time made the best of our way toward the town where 
we should stop. We arrived there after dark, and 
went to the alcalde's, who gave us an order on a 
meson. As we had no money, we went without our 
supper, being too tu*ed to go out to raise any. 

The next morning we went to a merchant, and told 
him what our situation was, and how we came so. 
He then gave us some breakfast, and directed us, in 
order to raise a little money, to go to the bishop who 
lived in the place, and who could talk English. We 
first went to some stores, where we received consider- 
able aid, then to the bishop's. We were told to wait 



200 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

a v^rhile. There were several poor, ragged Mexicans, 
apparently waiting for admittance likewise. We re- 
mained over an hour, when, becoming tired, we rose 
and left. We had gone hut a few yards before we 
were called back, and at once ushered into the august 
presence of his honor. There were several priests in 
the room engaged in writing. Some of them, I 
thought, were quite young to wear the gown. How- 
ever, they looked as though they were well kept. 
The bishop spoke to us in English, and asked what 
countrymen we were. We told him. He then ask- 
ed how we had been treated on the road. We told 
him of the misfortune of the day before. He express- 
ed great regret, and told one of his secretaries to give 
us two dollars each. We then took our leave, the 
old bishop asking us to pray for him. That he was 
no bigot, I learned from his own lips ; for when I was 
conversing with him, he asked whether there were 
not many Protestants in my country. I told him 
there were. He seemed to pity their condition, and 
said that he prayed God would not cut them off, but 
convert them to the true faith. This sentiment was 
not in unison with that of other priests whom I have 
heard express themselves toward Protestants ; for 
they would denounce them, and consign them, with- 
out judge or jury, to the lower regions of Purgatory, 
subject to the concentrated vengeance of the Almigh- 
ty. I sincerely believe that, were the rest of the 
priests in Mexico as liberal in then principles as this 
bishop, there would be less suffering and much less 
crime than there is. 

We were ready to start about noon. But, before 



IN MEXICO. 201 

leaving, we were informed that the road to Gruada- 
lajara was worse and more dangerous than any we 
had passed. This alarmed us ; and our alarm was 
increased when they told us of some companions 
(meaning some of the San Patricio company) who had 
been killed on that road. With heavy hearts and 
gloomy forebodings we pursued our way ; but we had 
gone only a short distance before my comrade came 
to a halt. The stories he had heard had made such 
an impression on his mind that he was fearful to pro- 
ceed ; and, in fact, I was in some such predicament 
also. So, after a few moments' consultation, we re- 
solved to go back and wait till some traveler should 
be going that road, in whose company we might pro- 
ceed more safely. Accordingly, back we went. "We 
stopped at the same meson we did the night before. 
After we had made the necessary arrangements, we 
went to the other mesons of the city, but did not 
hear of any one. At sunset we went again, and for- 
tunately found a gentleman with two servants going 
the next day. With them we engaged to go. They 
had an extra horse, which they said we might ride, 
and we started in their company the next morning. 

The extra horse we were to ride by turns. Before 
leaving, however, my comrade, unknown to me, bought 
a bottle of liquor, and drank several times before 
starting. After we had left the city he kept drink- 
ing until he became a little more than gentlemanly 
drunk. As soon as his bottle became exhausted, he 
then would stop at every house we came to and take 
another horn, so that before night he was so drunk 
that we had to hold him on the horse. This conduct 
12 



202 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

SO disgusted our new friends that they deoxared he 
should not ride any more after that day. And it was 
with much difficulty that I could persuade them to 
let him remain on the horse even that day. The next 
morning they reprimanded him severely for his ill 
conduct the day before, and then told him that if he 
drank any more, he must leave their company. All 
this my friend took in good part, well knowing that 
he deserved it ; he was as humble and penitent as a 
poor sinner could well be, and made all sorts of good 
promises for the future. 

After a while all was ready for a start, the gentle- 
man leading the way, and the servants, with the mules 
and baggage, following after. On the road to-day I 
observed the old gentleman look at his pistols as 
though examining them. He would then fire, dis- 
charging the six barrels in rapid succession. He ap- 
peared to be aiming at something ; but, in reality, I 
think it was more for effect than any thing else, for 
it is well known that the rancheros are terribly afraid 
of a revolver, and, should any be lurking in our imme- 
diate vicinity, the knowledge that one was in our com- 
pany would rather cool their ardor and keep them at 
a respectful distance. "We were not molested, how- 
ever, though we passed through some places where 
the inhabitants looked as though they would really 
like to have the pleasure of cutting our throats. 

The second night of our journey from Tepatatlan 
we stopped at a hacienda. It looked more like a vil- 
lage ; but I was told the inhabitants were all serv- 
ants to the dueno or master. Here one of those scenes 
occurred that show the expertness of a Mexican on 



IN MEXICO. 203 

horseback with the lasso. This is a rope, some thir- 
sty feet long, one end of which is made fast to the sad- 
dle, and the other formed into a noose, which slips 
;with ease. When in pursuit of cattle or horses, they 
approach sufficiently near, swing the lasso (which is 
coiled up in their hand) round their heads until it 
has a sufficient impetus, and then, with perfect aim, 
throw it over the animal's head. 

Children practice with the lasso as soon as they 
begin to walk by throwing it over a post, or catching 
cats, dogs, or any thing that comes handy. In this 
manner they become perfect adepts in its use. At 
this place they wished to catch a horse which was a 
little wild and gave them some trouble. By fre- 
quently changing horses, they at length run him 
down so that they could approach him near enough 
to insure success. One of the Mexicans then gath- 
ered up his lasso, swung it round over his head un- 
til a favorable moment, and then, with unerring ac- 
curacy, threw it over the horse's head. The animal 
he rode seemed to understand the business as well as 
his rider ; for, when he saw the lasso had gone, he^ 
suddenly stopped, braced back with all his strength, 
and was absolutely immovable. The rope now so se- 
verely choked the other horse that he could not move 
another inch. He was soon broke so as to lead well, 
and within an hour after they rode him with the sad- 
dle. He was now completely subdued. 

The next morning we pursued our journey. My 
comrade had so far regained the good- will of the Mex- 
icans that they permitted him to ride. As we pass- 
ed through several small places, we were somewhat 



204 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

aLused by the people; some would hoot at us, and 
others v^ould throw stones or dirt, exclaiming, " Curse 
the Yankees." And I verily believe that, had it not 
been for the presence of the Mexicans in whose com- 
pany we were traveling, our lives would hav^ been 
in danger. Burns, whom we had left behind, in com- 
ing through here was beaten so severely that his head 
was swelled up, and for some time he could scarcely 
see, so that on his arrival at G-uadalajara he was 
compelled to go to the hospital. 

That night we stayed at a small town only a day's 
journey from G-uadalajara. So many dangers had 
we passed through, that the prospect of a few weeks' 
rest, which we determined to take, raised our spirits 
above our present condition. The old gentleman in 
whose company we were kindly gave us all that we 
needed to make us comfortable. With me he be- 
came quite familiar, and would frequently urge me 
to go to his house, where, so long as I should remain 
with him, I should never want. This show of unu- 
sual generosity I afterward was taught to estimate 
at its right value. The Mexicans frequently use a 
thousand such expressions, but with no idea of ever 
being called upon to fulfili them. At a period sub- 
sequent to the time of which I am writing, I was 
once expressing my admiration of a gentleman's horse. 
He replied, '' There it is ; you may have it." This 
was a mere show of liberality ; for he would have 
been very careful how he made that offer had he 
thought there was any danger of my accepting it, 
I, however, did not so understand the old gentlemaii, 
Still, I declined his offer. 



IN MEXICO. 205 

We did not start so early as usual this morning, 
as we had but a short distance to go. The road was 
rough and rocky, and the country, in most places, 
was entirely uninhabited. The few people that I 
met looked more like a set of cut- throats than any I 
ever saw before. Near noon we came to a small town 
called San Pedro, about three leagues from Guadala- 
jara, which was most decidedly the prettiest Mexi- 
can town that I had yet seen. It was regularly laid 
out ; the streets were wider than usual ; the build- 
ings were only one story high, but beautifally fin- 
ished, and its churches were large and gorgeously 
ornamented, both inside and out. 

Here our Mexican friends were going to stop for the 
day, and we parted. I could not leave the old gentle- 
man without expressing the deep gratitude I felt for 
his great kindness toward me, I was fully sensible 
that I could not have got along alone as safely as I 
had in his company. This continued kindness made 
a lasting impression on my mind, and I now take 
great pleasure in recalling this and similar instances. 
After leaving the old man we went round the town, 
got us a dinner at a fonda or eating-house, and then 
started for our journey's end. 

Just as we were leaving the town, a Mexican came 
running up to us, asking if we would take a ride on 
a donkey. His charge to carry us three leagues was 
one shilling each. This was cheaper than to walk, 
so we engaged him. A number of others pressed 
round iis, all having something to say, one asking to 
be employed, and another — all together making a 
noise equal to the runners at the landings of our 



206 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

Bteam-boats or rail-roads. We, however, succeeded 
in mounting the donkeys that were brought out to 
us, and started. The road was level, and on each 
side, all the way, were some large and beautiful 
shade trees. The country, as far as the eye could 
reach, was as level as a floor, yet only small portions 
were cultivated. Here and there was seen a cluster 
of trees, and within these were houses belonging to 
the different haciendas. This portion of the country 
was the most beautiful of any I had yet seen. The 
seats, placed along by the road side, under the trees, 
at regular intervals ; the situation of the houses, al- 
most concealed from sight by the forests of fruit- 
trees ; and the surrounding fields, covered with cat- 
tle and horses, altogether presented a scene worthy a 
painter's pencil. 

Our driver kept hurrying onward, urging the ani- 
mals to their utmost speed by the frequent applica- 
tion of his club, accompanied with the usual vocab- 
ulary for urging them forward. 

In about two hours we came to v/hat is called the 
garita or gate. Here a guard of soldiers was sta- 
tioned ; and here we dismounted, paid the man of 
donkeys, and walked on we knew not whither. 



IN MEXICO. 207 



CHAPTER IX. 

Unexpected Hospitality. — New Acquaintance. — Description of Gua- 
dalajara. — The Cathedral. — Remarkable Picture. — Resolve to part 
from my ^llow-traveler. — Applications for Employment. — Bad 
News. — Fall in with an American. — Political Parties. — Paredes. — 
His Insurrection. — A Comical Battle, followed by a Bloodless Vic- 
tory. — Run of good Fortune. — My Safety is endangered by an 
Order of the Authorities. — I am betrayed by my new Acquaint- 
ance. — But, warned of my Danger, I defeat the Plot. — Leave 
Guadalajara secretly with my old Fellow-traveler. — Wretched Ap- 
pearance of the Country. — Singular use of a Thirty-two Potmder. 
— La Venta. — Etztlan. — Scene at the Meson. — I procure Employ- 
ment. — Part with my Fellow-traveler. — Mexican Sabbath. — Start 
with my Employer for his Residence. — An Accident. — The Secre- 
tary. — Arrive at Iztlan, my Employer's Residence. 

"We were now in a city which ranks second in size 
and commercial importance in Mexico, but where to 
go or what to do we knew not. A short distance 
from the gate, as we were passing a house, a man 
came to the door and called us in. "We went, some 
chairs were handed us, and soon after some native 
wine was given us to drink, of which we partook. A 
woman soon came in, bringing some bread and cheese, 
on which we made a good meal. After some conver- 
sation, we inquired if there were any of the San Pa- 
tricio company in the city. He replied there were, 
and told where they might be found. He also gave 
us the desu-ed information as to what we should do ; 
and added, that it would be very dangerous for us to 



208 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

go out much at niglit, as the city was full of robbers 
and assassins. He gave us much good advice ; and 
on our taking leave, he went a short distance with 
us to show the way. 

It had been all along represented that here our 
lives would be in continual danger, that the city was 
full of desperadoes, and that murders and robberies 
were of daily and nightly occurrence. This report 
subsequently proved to be true only to a limited ex- 
tent. I heard, indeed, of several robberies, and saw 
three dead bodies that had been found in the morn- 
ing ; but the kindness of this man set our minds at 
rest, in a great measure, as our first entrance here 
had been marked by an act of great kindness that 
was entirely unexpected and unasked for. "We, how- 
ever, determined to pay heed to some of the advice 
that had been given us. 

After considerable trouble we found the Plaza, to 
which we had been directed. Here we presented our- 
selves to the colonel commanding the garrison in the 
quartel, and he gave us quarters with the non-com- 
missioned officers. During the afternoon and even- 
ing several Irishmen came to the quartel to see us ; 
they were deserters from the American army, and 
had been here some time. The appearance of one, in 
particular, deserves notice. He formerly belonged to 
the dragoons, was at the battle of Vera Cruz, and 
deserted just before the capture of Mexico. He was 
now teaching the sword exercise ; and as he had a 
full school, he was making money. In excuse for de- 
serting the American army, he said that, as an Irish- 
man and a subject of the British crown, he could not 



IN MEXICO. 209 

legally enter into a foreign service ; that that very- 
act would brand him as a traitor to his country ; and 
that his enlistraent in the United States service was 
a mere formality. His oath of fidelity he held to he 
a bugbear ; he was not a naturalized citizen, he said, 
and his oath was not worth a straw ; and it was, 
under these circumstances, morally and legally right 
for him or any other subject of Great Britain to de- 
sert the American army. As he appeared to be a 
leader, the rest echoed his opinions. For my part, 
as I did not wish them to know my real character, I 
said nothing in reply to this logic. 

In the evening he and my comrade went to a grog- 
shop, and remained there most of the night. They 
became so drunk as to be unable to help themselves, 
and others were forced to carry them to the quartel 
to the rooms assigned them. 

Next morning we were directed to go to the com- 
manding general of that department, who would give 
us an order on the treasury for three dollars, the rest 
having received theirs. Accordingly, we went to his 
office and presented our passports. He countersigned 
them, giving us permission to go to San Bias, and 
then directed his secretary to write an order on the 
treasury for three dollars each. "We then went to 
the building next to this, and entered the office, where 
were some twenty clerks. I presented my order to 
the first one I came to ; he directed me to an officer 
who was sitting at the head of the room. To him I 
went. He read our orders, wrote something on the 
back, and sent us to another office, where were only 
two men. Here we presented our orders, and they 



210 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

endorsed them, and paid us the money, when we 
thought ourselves rich. 

The next day we presented our letter that had been 
given us at Lagos, and found that the gentleman to 
whom it was addressed was no less a person than the 
vice-consul of Spain. He read our letter, and gave 
us three dollars each. This was good luck doubly 
multiplied. After reading the letter, he said he could 
give us no definite answer until the morning follow- 
ing, at which time we must call again. We then 
left to take a stroll round the city. 

It (Gruadalajara) was more beautiful than we had 
expected, being regularly laid out in squares. The 
streets are mostly narrow, but all of them are paved. 
The houses are two and three stories high, well fin- 
ished, and beautifully painted. There are some two 
or three convents, and a perfect host of churches. 
The Cathedral is one of the largest in Mexico. It has 
several entrances, and the high altar is on one side. 
Over it is a statue of the Virgin Mary, dressed up in 
gaudy colors, and inclosed in a glass case. Around 
her neck is a gold chain, and a golden dagger hangs 
at her side. On a wall opposite this is the image of 
Christ, as large as life, nailed to the cross. The blood 
is represented as running from his wounded side ; the 
spikes through his hands are visible ; and a crown of 
thorns is on his head. This also is inclosed in a glass 
case. In other parts are niches in the wall, in which 
are placed the twelve apostles. In parts not occupied 
by these images are numerous and valuable paint- 
ings. Some represent the death of Christ, his resur- 
rection, and ascension. Another represents a poor 



IN MEXICO. 211 

soul in purgatory, which is painted as a place of pun- 
ishment, surrounded by a high wall. One old sinner 
is trying to crawl out ; but there are devils stationed 
at certain intervals on this wall, with long spears in 
their hands, to push down any poor soul that should 
attempt to climb up the wall. Eed, fiery flames play 
about them, and huge masses of black smoke curl 
over their heads. The whole is designed to represent 
the vengeance of the Almighty to its full extent. In 
the center of the floor, and elevated. about two feet, 
was the pulpit. There were several ornaments of 
pure silver and gold, some of them very large and 
immensely valuable. This is the largest Cathedral 
that I ever saw, the best furnished, and the richest. 

The inhabitants of Gruadalajara, so far as I could 
ascertain, are better informed and more refined than 
in any other part of Mexico. The reason of this is 
probably its foreign commerce ; for the intercourse 
with other countries from this city is quite extensive, 
and numerous foreigners were then residing there. 
I saw several factories, one of guns, another of paper, 
and another of cotton. All these were conducted by 
foreigners. 

A very large and fertile valley surrounds the city. 
Provisions could be had very cheap ; and fruit was 
supplied, even to excess, at a very low rate. But ar- 
ticles of clothing were very high. This is the case 
with regard to the other parts of the country also ; 
and for this reason, the lower classes wear pantaloons 
and jackets made of goat skins. 

Next morning, at the appointed hour, we waited on 
the consul. He then informed us that he had no bus- 



212 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

iness for us to do, "but if we would go to his hacienda 
— distant fourteen leagues — and work on his farm, 
he would give us what we earned. To this we made 
no answer, but left, promising to return and inform 
him of the result of our decision when it was made. 
This prospect we considered little better than none at 
all ; to go on his hacienda, and place ourselves on a 
level with his Tancheros, who were not so well off as 
the majority of slaves in the United States, was an 
idea not to be entertained for one moment. Ameri- 
can pride could not succumb to this. Bad as our sit- 
uation was, it would have made usif\rorse off than be- 
fore to have accepted this offer. 

My comrade at this time drank so very hard that 
I resolved to leave him. He had already betrayed 
me to his own companions, telling them what was 
my real character ; but, as no prospect of bettering 
my condition appeared, I remained with him. By 
his excesses he soon spent all his money, and he was 
then dependent on me for what he ate and drank. 
We had been here now near a week, during which 
time he had spent over six dollars, and I less than 
two. Yery soon he had taken all my money, and I 
resolved to leave him. To do this successfully, and 
without fear of exposure from him, required some 
management. 

Some of this San Patricio company, through the 
influence of some officers, obtained work in the arse- 
nal at making gun-stocks. One young man was here 
at work with whom I had become quite intimate. 
From the fact that he was an American, and free 
from the gambling and drinking habits of the rest of 



IN MEXICO. 213 

his comrades, he knew my whole history, and made 
application for me to obtain work at the same place 
that he did. As I did not mider stand working with 
carpenter's tools, I was unsuccessful there. But as 
I had seen several harness shops, I went to one and 
applied for work. I was asked if I could stitch ; and 
at the same time they handed me a trace, on which 
to make a trial. They had but few tools, and these 
were not like those that we use. However, I put 
the work in a pair of clamps, and went to work. It 
soon appeared that I could stitch as fast and as well 
as they, and I was then offered two shillings per day 
and board myself, this being the wages of all Mexican 
mechanics. I thought that if they were fools enough 
to work for such wages they might, but I would take 
a tramp first. 

Thence I went to a coach-making establishment, 
conducted by a Frenchman. Of him I asked a job 
of work at trimming, having also, at a former time, 
worked a little at that. He asked my terms ; I told 
him twenty dollars per month, as long or as short a 
time as I wished to stay. He would engage me, he 
said, but for a period of not less than six months ; I 
could not possibly remain so long as that, and there- 
fore I declined making a bargain. In fact, it was 
only my wish to get fifteen or twenty dollars, to en- 
able me to pursue my journey in an independent 
manner. 

My money had iiow given out, and I was reduced 
to great distress ; over one day had passed, during 
which time I had nothing to eat. I knew not what 
to do ; work could not be had at prices that would 



214 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

keep soul and body together, and I felt ashamed to 
Ibeg. In this emergency, a gentleman by the name 
of Jones, who had resided in the city some years, ac- 
cidentally learning my circumstances, started a con- 
tribution for me, and I received five dollars. 

I had previously left the quartel, and gone to the 
house of one of the tv^o men who traveled with us a 
few days prior to our reaching this city. I had met 
him at the house of the old gentleman, on whom I 
had called according to agreement, and he invited 
me to go to his house. I did so ; and a room was 
given me to sleep in free of charge. But I did not 
board with them. The young man who worked in 
the gun factory slept here with me. It was my in- 
tention to remain with him until he had money 
enough to carry us to the sea-coast, when we would 
start together. But we little know what a day may 
bring forth. I saw my old comrade daily. He had 
sold all the clothes that he could spare to furnish 
money for liquor. Rumors were in circulation that 
the Americans were landing at Mazatlan and San 
Bias, and that they contemplated an advance on this 
city. Consternation and alarm were depicted in eve- 
ry countenance, and the subject was discussed among 
the officers of government of forcing all the deserters 
from the Americans into their service. Five days 
would decide the matter whether it would be neces- 
sary or not. 

This news came on us like a thunderbolt. Gruards 
were to be sent to all the gates and all the streets 
leading from the city to watch and examine every 
person who should enter or go out. I now determ- 



IN MEXICO. 215 

ined to leave forthwith, as this guard was to be set 
next morning. I went forthwith to the factory, 
where were some Americans. It was about three 
miles from the city. On my arrival there, I went 
direct to the office and inquired for the director in 
Spanish, as I saw but two clerks at thek desks. An- 
other gentleman, whom I had not seen, answered 
in English that he was the person for whom I in- 
quired. I then told him my situation (omitting, 
however, that I was a prisoner), and that I was anx- 
ious to get out of the country. I asked him if he 
would afford me any assistance. He replied that he 
had been so much troubled with such characters — 
meaning deserters — and abused so often, that he had 
concluded to give them no more. He made several 
severe remarks about them, showing that, though he 
was now in Mexico, he was an American still. I 
then said, " Sir, are you an American?" He said he 
was. ''From what state are you?" ''Massachu- 
setts." " Then, sir," I replied, " as you are an Amer- 
ican, I can trust you with a secret which, were it di- 
vulged here, would cost me my life." I then added, 
" You probably have seen an account of the capture 
of a train of wagons by General Urrea on the 24th 
of February, 1847." He said he knew all about it. 
""Well, sir, I was taken with that train, and with 
my comrades marched to the city of San Luis Poto- 
si, suffering on the road hardships almost incredi- 
ble." I then stated how I came to be separated from 
them, and to pass this way. In proof of what I said, 
I showed him my passport, saying, " This reads that 
I am an Irishman, but you, sir, know it to be false." 



216 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I also showed him my notes that I had kept, and suc- 
ceeded in preserving thus far. In addition, I showed 
him my card, drawn from the Odd Fellows' Lodge to 
which I belonged previous to my leaving the United 
States, and which I had kept by means of a belt that 
I wore next my skin. He then said that I was en- 
gaged in a dangerous and desperate enterprise, and 
that I could not have been aware of the many perils 
I had escaped. He also said that I was in great dan- 
ger at the present moment, for, should I be detected, 
my life would not be worth one straw. 

He then conversed with me about the situation 
of Mexico. There was no unanimity, he said, in the 
government ; party feeling ran high, and always de- 
stroyed the effects of the wise and judicious measures 
that were often adopted by the government. As in- 
stances of this party feeling, he stated that Santa 
Anna was desirous of destroying the influence of the 
Church by depriving it of its property. This caused 
a revolution in the city of Mexico. He had avowed 
his intention of taking the property of the Church to 
supply his military chest, and when he was going to 
the city to seize what could soonest be made avail- 
able, the priests engaged in their pay all the clerks 
and young men in the city to defend it. The streets 
were all barricaded, and old Santa was forced to aban- 
don this project. Subsequent to the capture of Mex- 
ico, it had been rumored that Santa Anna was in fa- 
vor of the United States, and that it was his inten- 
tion eventually to deliver the whole country into the 
hands of the Americans. This rumor was believed 
among the Mexicans, and the priests formed another 



IN MEXICO. 217 

party, which was by no means inconsiderable. This 
party was in favor of a foreign monarch, and its in- 
fluence was great, as they had control of two thirds 
of the wealth of the country. Another party, by far 
the most numerous, but less wealthy, was in favor 
of a native monarch, with a strong and vigorous 
government. This comprised the middle and lower 
classes. 

We had a long conversation on these subjects, and 
then changed it to one more in unison with my sit- 
uation and feelings. I inquired if he could corre- 
spond with his friends in the States. He said he 
could, as a British mail went through once a month. 
The letters he sent went to Havana, and thence to 
the States. I asked and obtained liberty to write to 
my friends to inform them that I yet was in the land 
of the living. This was the first opportunity I had 
had to write home for nearly a year. I gave a short 
account of my capture, my travels, and escape up to 
that time. When I had sealed it, he took it and prom- 
ised to forward it by the first mail, a promise which 
he faithfully performed. 

He now gave me the additional information, al- 
ready stated, that nearly every battle which had 
been fought with the Americans had been followed 
by one between themselves. One of these occurred 
near this factory on the 18th of May. This was a 
revolution got up by Paredes, who was a native of 
this place. I will give a short description of this gen- 
eral as I saw him riding through the streets. He was 
of short stature and very slender, so that when mount- 
ed on his horse he looked like a half-grown boy. He 

K 



218 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

was of a very dark complexion, v^ith a high, promi- 
nent forehead, and keen, piercing black eyes. Alto- 
gether, his appearance was too insignificant to lead 
one to think that he could be capable of making so 
much noise in the world. 

Of the object he had in view in instigating this 
revolution I am not fully informed. However, as its 
result was so comical, it will bear relating. 

The two armies were maneuvering in the valley 
close to the factory for some days. At last both par- 
ties made preparations for an attack. There was a 
hill between the two encampments which both start- 
ed to ascend at the same moment, each army sup- 
posing that the other was still in their camp ; nor 
were they undeceived until they had met ; then one 
lire was exchanged, and both parties retreated down 
hill, each supposing that the other was pursuing. 
After they had run some distance, one of the officers 
belonging to the insurgents looked back, and, seeing 
no one, ordered a halt. He then went back to see 
where their enemies were, when it was discovered 
that they, too, were running with all their might. 
This officer then claimed the victory, on the ground 
that he occupied the battle-field. This was a blood- 
less victory. It, however, did not end the revolu- 
ilon, for the government made great exertions to 
bring into the field its entire force, and they brought 
the insurgents to an action. After a sharp conflict, 
a large portion of the latter went over to their ene- 
mies, and this ended the revolution. I saw several 
houses that were literally riddled with cannon balls, 
and on the walls were marks of the musketry. Pa- 



IN MEXICO. 219 

redes was banished from the state for a while, but at 
the time I was there he was back again. 

By this time other Americans came into the office, 
to whom I was introduced. One of them I found to 
be an Odd Fellow. The dkector told them who and 
what I was, and they gave me one dollar each, and 
wished me all success in making my escape. As it 
was now noon, my brother Odd Fellow invited me to 
go with him to dinner, an invitation which I gladly 
accepted. He occupied a neat, beautiful house, on 
entering which he introduced me to his wife. As 
she was the first American lady I had seen for some 
time, I thought she was the most beautiful woman 
I had ever beheld. For the first time during a long 
period I sat down to a dinner cooked in good Yankee 
style. I now look back on this interview as one of 
the brightest spots in a long and dark captivity. 

After dinner my friend gave me a coat, shirt, and 
pantaloons, and a dollar in money. I then left the 
factory to return to the city with feelings of deep 
gratitude to all the Americans who resided there. 
Should these pages ever meet their eyes, I would re- 
turn them my most grateful acknowledgments for 
their kindness, well knowing that the consciousness 
of having succored an American in distress is a more 
ample recompense than I can possibly bestow. 

"When I came to the city I took a circuitous route 
to go to my lodgings, intending to seek my new 
comrade, but before getting there I met my old one, 
he being in search of me. He told me some news 
which caused me to decide to leave town instantly, 
or, at least, that night, and in his company. The 



220 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

news was that, owing to the late rumors, an order 
had been given to stop all of the San Patricio com- 
pany from leaving the city, which order was to be 
carried into effect the next morning. He further said 
that the young man with whom I had lately associ- 
ated, and with whom I slept, had that morning in- 
formed the officers at the quartel of my real charac- 
ter, and some inquiry had consequently been made 
for me. He had heard my comrade say that he would 
bring me up there the following morning. On this 
they rested satisfied, not thinking that I would hear 
of my danger before that time. 

As I would have my liberty until the next morn- 
ing, and as I had to go down to my lodgings, where 
this young fellow was, to get my clothes, I determ- 
ined to take such measures as would effectually si- 
lence him for a time. I then went to a druggist and 
got a good dose of laudanum, bidding my companion 
meet me there at such an hour and be ready for a 
start. I then went down to the house v/here I lodged, 
and found this base scoundrel awaiting my arrival. 
He seemed glad to see me, and soon began telling of 
a job of work that we could get at the quartel, and 
that he had promised to go up with me the next 
morning to see about it. I readily promised to go, 
and ordered some coffee made. "When it was done, I 
went to bring it in where we were sitting. On the 
way I poured most of the laudanum into his cup, 
and then gave it to him. We drank our shares, and 
in a very short time he wondered what made him so 
sleepy — I, at the same time, wondered what had made 
him such a scoundrel. He soon fell asleep, when I 



IN MEXICO. 221 

picked up my clothes and bid him an eternal adieu, 
sincerely hoping that he would wake out of this sleep 
after I was out of danger ; but if, on the contrary, he 
did not, I considered myself perfectly justifiable in 
doing as I did, for my life should not be forfeited 
through the treachery of one whose sole object was 
gain. 

I now went to the place appointed, where my com- 
panion was waiting my arrival with some anxiety. 
He did not know what means I had used to get away, 
nor did I ever tell him. "We knew the road which 
we were to take, and pushed on at as rapid a rate as 
possible. My comrade was excited by the fear of 
being forced to join their army again (which, he said, 
would have been worse than death), and I by the fear 
of a pursuit and recapture, which would have been 
certain death. "We traveled all that night, and, as we 
were fresh, made good speed. 

In the morning we laid by and slept a while, and 
then resumed our journey. That day we came to a 
guard-house, some twenty leagues from Gruadalaja- 
ra, where was stationed a small garrison of soldiers. 
When we came up the officers were pitching quoits. 
We showed them our passports ; they signed them, 
and gave us some money. We then quickly passed 
on, for we knew this was a dangerous experiment. 
Had these officers received the orders respecting the 
San Patricio company, it would have ended our jour- 
ney. Our reason for applying to them was to ascer- 
tain if such an order had- been given out, for, had it 
been so, we should be liable to be arrested at any fu- 
ture time, even if v^e passed this station. We there- 



222 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

fore determined to ascertain at once the extent of our 
danger. After they had signed our passports, we 
knew that at present no danger was to be appre- 
hended. 

We now pursued our journey, free from any ap- 
prehensions of a pursuit, and traveled as fast as we 
could. We had been informed that there were no 
towns of any size on our route, with but two excep- 
tions, Etztlan and Ahuacatlan. We were therefore 
in great danger from robbers on this road, as there 
were large numbers of them. 

On the second day's march my comrade began to 
drink again ; at every house we came to he would 
stop and drink until he could drink no more, and then 
would go, as he best could, to the next one. In this 
manner the day passed off, and we had gone only ten 
miles. On balancing his accounts the next morn- 
ing, he found that he had lost or drank away all his 
money, amounting to five dollars. I now told him 
plainly that this must be the last time he got drunk ; 
for if it was repeated, I should leave him, as it was 
running too much risk to conduct in that manner 
among the Mexicans, when we were almost entirely 
depending on them. My remarks seemed to have the 
desired effect, and he promised that the like should 
not occur again. I had some five dollars, and he had 
to look to me for his daily food. 

There was nothing to distinguish this part of the 
country from other portions that we had passed 
through. It was very rough and rocky ; the mount- 
ains seemed to draw nearer together ; and there were 
very few spots capable of being cultivated. ^ Univers- 



IN MEXICO. !22o 

al desolation seemed to reign ; and at some distance 
ahead, it seemed as though the mountains came to- 
gether, leaving no passage between them, which aft- 
erward proved to be true. 

We now pursued our journey with some security 
and comfort. My comrade begged for even one dram 
of liquor whenever we passed a place where any was 
sold. He would beg with all possible ardor ; but it 
was all in vain. No liquor would I furnish ; but 
provisions, «uch as he or I needed, I would cheerfully 
provide. 

The fourth day we came to a small town entirely 
surrounded by mountains. We here went to the al- 
calde ; but he refused to furnish us with a room, and 
even threatened to confine us in jail. For what rea- 
son he took this course, I can not imagine. How- 
ever, he did not execute his threat. We then went 
to the meson, where we found some officers who were 
going to G-uadalajara. They ordered us a room, and 
gave us some money. 

The next day we came to a small place at the foot 
of the mountains. The houses were poor, miserable 
huts, not fit to be called houses, and occupied by, if 
possible, still worse-looking inhabitants. As I could 
see nothing but rocks and musquit bushes, I could 
not conceive what they lived on. I went to several 
huts, and inquired for something to eat ; no hay I no 
hay ! (there is none), was the invariable answer ; and 
I verily believe they told the truth. We then moved 
on, to get out of this place as soon as possible. 

We now began to ascend a high mountain. The 
road leading up its side had been dug from the solid 



224 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

rock. On the outside was a thick and solid wall, 
bnilt, I suppose, to prevent any one from falling off 
the side. The road wound up with a zigzag course, 
something like the shape of the letter S. When we 
arrived at the top, on looking down we could see the 
houses very indistinctly ; hut not a moving object 
could he seen. From here the road was level for a 
short distance, then again was another mountain for 
us to climh, the road winding up and walled as before. 

After we had got to the top of this second mount- 
ain, we again saw a level country and a few houses. 
I also saw a field of corn, and concluded that where 
there was corn there must be something to eat ; so 
we stopped at a house, and got a good meal of tortil- 
las, jerked beef, and beans. "We then started on. A 
short distance from this house we passed a large gun, 
a thirty-two pounder. I was told that it had been 
left there by the Spaniards during the Mexican rev- 
olutionary war. Here it now was forming a portion 
of fence. They had attempted to bring it from Tepio 
into the interior ; but so rough, rocky, and mountain- 
ous was the road, that they could take it no further. 
I was told that during that war, this portion of the 
country had been the scene of many sanguinary bat- 
tles and many bloody massacres ; and afterward, 
during my residence here, I was shown places that 
had been entirely destroyed ; men, women, and chil- 
dren had been mercilessly butchered, and not a soul 
left alive to tell the sad tale. We now came to Ti- 
quila, a rough and savage-looking place, where we re- 
mained for the night. 

The next morning we left at an early hour, and 



IN MEXICO. 225 

about noon came to a place called Magdalena. Here 
we called on the alcalde, who gave us a dinner free 
of charge. "We then passed on. Some of the coun- 
try was marshy ; and at a distance from the road was 
a lake. It did not appear to he deep, hut it was of 
considerable extent. As we wished to go to La Yenta, 
the nearest good place to stop, we were forced to hire 
a man with two horses to convey us thither, as it 
was nearly night, and the distance was about three 
leagues. For this service I paid one dollar ; and 
right glad was I to do it, for the inhabitants looked 
as though they would like to cut our throats, and we 
were afraid to trust ourselves with them for the night. 
, The horses were soon ready for a start, and we 
put them on a good round trot. For a short time we 
made good headway ; but it soon grew dark, and our 
road was among rocks and gulleys. We then went 
slowly, our guide in the mean time enlivening our 
spirits by telling us of a robbery and murder that 
had been committed a short time before, close to 
where we then were. It was as dark as it could well 
be, and our guide lost his way. This perplexed us, 
for we knew not but he was connected with those 
robbers, and had conducted us to this place to bring 
us into their power. He went to search for the way, 
leaving us alone, and we made up our minds to sell 
our lives dearly, should we be attacked. He, how- 
ever, returned after an absence of half an hour with 
the cheering report that he had found the road. "We 
now pushed on with all speed, and about ten o'clock 
arrived at the meson where we were to stop. The 
landlord, before he would consent to let us stay, de- 
K 2 



226 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

manded our passports. When lie had read them, a 
room w^as given us. We then got supper and went 
to sleep. 

In the morning we paid our hill and started. We 
were only seven leagues from Etztlan ; hut the road 
was extremely rough, and surrounded hy high mount- 
ains. Ahout three o'clock we came to that town, and 
presented our passports to the alcalde. He gave us 
a shilling each; and my comrade soon drank to in- 
toxication, abusing the Mexicans to the best of his 
ability, so far as his limited knowledge of the lan- 
guage would allow. He called them bastards, thieves, 
and cowards. Such language exposed him to severe 
punishment ; and the only wonder is how the alcalde 
and the rest of the gentlemen restrained themselves 
under these insults. I was requested to take him 
into the office, and make him lie down until he got 
sober. I accordingly went and spoke to him with 
this purpose, when he turned on me, and in a most 
insulting manner said, " Who are you ? You are not 
one of the San Patricio company, but a prisoner — " 
Before he could say the rest I had knocked him down, 
and after he fell I knocked him till he could say no 
more. One of the constables now came up to take 
me off; but, before he could do so, the alcalde seized 
him by the coat collar, thrashed him about a few 
minutes, and then let him go, with orders not to in- 
terfere any more with me. After I had sufficiently 
punished the miscreant, I left him, but he was un- 
able to move. The constable was then ordered to 
take him into the office, and there leave him till he 
had slept off his drunken fit. 



IN MEXICO. 227 

I here became acquainted with a lawyer named 
Don Pedro Martinez, who, after having conversed with 
me some time, at last inquked if I understood gram- 
mar, geography, and arithmetic. I answered in the 
affirmative. He then wanted me to write a little for 
him. I did so. He seemed to regard this as a great 
curiosity, and showed it to all who came round. He 
then asked if I understood Latin. I said I did, and 
Greek also. He then got a law-book, with some Latin 
reading in. This I read to him readily and correct- 
ly. Some G-reek sentences that he found I also read 
to him. He now said that if I would go to his place, 
and teach his boys the English language, he would 
board and clothe me ; and when I could speak and 
write the Spanish language better than I now could, 
he would put me in good business in the mines, of 
which there were many. This offer I determined to 
accept, not only on account of my drunken comrade, 
but also from the fact that, as yet, the American fleet 
was not at San Bias, and I knew that I could leave 
at any time after they did arrive. He said his place 
was twenty leagues distant, and that he should start 
thither on the next Monday. This was Saturday. 
As my money was about gone, he gave me sufficient 
to last till that time. 

The lawyer now took me to see some of his friends 
among the higher classes, and I was treated by them 
with great kindness. They seemed to be free and 
frank, and conversed without that reserve which is 
often displayed toward strangers in other countries. 
But as it was getting late, I returned to the alcalde's 
office. My comrade was yet in a profound sleep. 



228 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I rolled myself in my blanket, and went to sleep 
also. 

Next morning my fellow-traveler woke up very 
early and aroused me from my slumbers. His first 
remark was, " "Well, I was a little tight last night, 
was I not ?" Then he began making apologies. I 
stopped him short by asking if he knew what he had 
said to the alcalde, and the rest who were standing 
by, the night before. He said he did not. I then 
told him, and added, that the alcalde was going to put 
him in jail as soon as he came into the office in the 
morning, and that he would have done so last night 
if I had not begged him to forbear. At this he burst 
out with the exclamation, " My G-od ! my G-od ! what 
shall I do ?" After a few moments, I told him that 
his only course was to leave as soon as possible, and 
not let the alcalde see him there at all. To this he 
consented ; and forthwith he packed up his things. 
I told him that I should go no further with him, on 
account of the offer I had had. He advised me to 
take it. I then divided my money with him, and we 
parted. I have never seen him since, and my impres- 
sion is that he was killed on the road ; for, when I 
was afterward in Tepic, I inquired at the British con- 
sul's relative to him, but was informed that he had 
never been -there. I had heard that one of my com- 
panions was killed about this time, but never sup- 
posed that it was he until my arrival at Tepic. 

The next day being Sunday, I went to church. 
There was but one, and that not extraordinary. Two 
fat and lazy-looking priests stood at the altar, going 
through their ceremonies, while the congregation were 



IN MEXICO. 229 

all kneeling, and every few minutes crossing them- 
selves, and thumping on their breasts, with solemn 
faces. While a fev/ devout persons were here wor- 
shiping, the Plaza was filled with people buying and 
selling; and, in other places, some were gambling. 
The day finished off with cock-fighting, at which large 
numbers attended, and heavy bets were lost and won. 

This is a fair picture of a Sabbath in Mexico. 
The people generally attend church in the forenoon. 
After that, it is gambling, drinking, and fighting ; 
and it not unfrequently ends in murder. The priests 
are greatly to blame for this, for they not only at- 
tend these places, but also bet, both with the greasy 
ranchero and with the well-dressed aristocrat. 

The next morning the lawyer came to the alcal- 
de's office, saying that he was ready for a start, and 
wanted me to go with him to his house. We there 
found the baggage packed on the mules, the horses 
saddled, and all ready to depart. The place to which 
we were going was called Iztlan. We took the same 
road that I had traveled the week before, until after 
we descended those high mountains which I have al- 
ready described. We stopped at a rancho after dark, 
not being able to finish the journey that day. 

My friend, previous to starting, had armed me with 
a brace of pistols and a sword. His fear of robbers 
was great ; and he asked me many questions as to 
whether I would be afraid if we should be attacked. 
He seemed to be satisfied with my answers, for ho 
sent me on ahead in company with his secretary. A 
portion of the road was very rocky, and, after it be- 
came dark, it was difficult to discern the path. After 



230 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

a while we were called back by those m the rear, 
and, from the noise that was made, I thought they 
were either attacked by robbers, or that something 
else serious had happened, so We put our horses on 
a full run to give them assistance. On arriving there, 
we saw that the difficulty was quite serious. The 
lawyer's wife had lost the path, and her horse had 
got into the midst of huge masses of rock, and was 
pitching and rearing, trying to extricate himself. The 
lady, being unable to maintain her seat, fell on one 
of those rooks, and was nearly killed. When we came 
up she was utterly unable to move, and was support- 
ed by her husband and the two servants. Martinez 
now ordered a bottle of aguadiente (that is, brandy) 
to be brought from his saddle-bags, handed it to his 
wife, who drank a little, and took some himself. It 
was then passed to all hands. The secretary, I now 
found, drank with a right good will, and the bottle 
was passed back and forth between us until we had 
nearly drained its contents. In about an hour we 
succeeded in getting the lady on her horse, and then 
proceeded to the place where we were to stop. 

As this secretary will figure largely hereafter as 
my comrade, a short description of him will not be out 
of place. His name is Jesus Murguir. Jesus is pro- 
nounced like Khesoos. J sounds like M, the accent 
on the last syllable, the u sounding like double oo. 
This is a very common name in Mexico, and is given 
to both males and females. The sex is distinguished 
by prefixing don for males and donna for females. 
Other names also are common to both sexes, the term- 
ination o denoting the masculine, and a the feminine 



IN MEXICO. 231 

gender. But as it is not my province to write a treat- 
ise on the language, I return to the secretary. He 
was of a slender make ; his complexion was perfectly 
white, with keen, piercing black eyes. He was one 
of the most jovial companions I ever met with, gen- 
erous to a faulty and as regardless of money as of the 
ground he walked on. His parents lived in the town 
whither we were going, and were the wealthiest in 
the place, counting their property hy hundreds of 
thousands. The only faults that I could charge to 
Don Jesus were drinking and gambling, to both of 
which vices he was a most abject slave ; and by these 
he had lost a splendid fortune. I frequently conversed 
with him on the subject of their national religion, the 
character of their priests, &c. In reply, he said that 
the Mexicans were all fools to be thus led by the nose 
by a set of worthless vagabonds, as he termed the 
priests, bishops, and all who were connected with the 
Church. He said that he had not been at confession 
for fourteen years ; and when he was married, he re- 
fused to confess, but deceived the priests, so that they 
performed the marriage ceremony. I asked him what 
he should do if he was going to die. He said the 
priests were but men as he was, and some were much 
worse ; therefore they must be unsafe agents to take 
care of the souls of men ; and if he was going to die, 
he would confess to his G-od, as the supreme Ruler of 
all, and the only Being who was able to forgive. 
These were rather heterodox sentiments for a Catho- 
lic, and would have consigned him to the tender mer- 
cies of the Inquisition, had there been any in the coun- 
try. I afterward found many wealthy individuals, 



232 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

v^ho thought and felt the same, as I will show here- 
after. 

On account of the illness of Don Pedro's wife, we 
remained at this rancho three days, and on the fourth 
proceeded on our journey. We took the same road 
that we had previously taken for about three or four 
leagues, until we were near Magdalena, when we 
turned to the south. For several leagues the road 
was through a fine and beautiful valley, until we 
came to a small village, where we baited our horses 
and took dinner. We then pushed on over the mount- 
ains. After crossing these, Don Jesus pointed to the 
town where we were going. As yet I could see noth- 
ing but a large forest ; not a house was visible. The 
country round us was level, and appeared to be well 
cultivated. The village now could be discerned 
among the trees. The road passed by two beautiful 
little lakes. About four o'clock in the afternoon we 
entered the town. 



IN MEXICO. 233 



CHAPTER X. 

I become acquainted with the higher Classes. — Their Manners and 
Character. — Appearance of the Ladies. — Pecuhar Mode of Sahita- 
tion. — The Clergy. — Different Classes. — Their Revenues. — Charac- 
ter of the Pi'iests. — Service for the Dying. — Crosses and Medals. — 
Description of the Country round Iztlan. — Mines. — Mode of ex- 
tracting Silver. — Visit to a Silver Mine. — Account of a peculiar 
Tribe of Indians. — Causes of Indian Degradation. — Mode of Pro- 
tection against the Cold. — Mexican Dogs. — A great Festival. — The- 
atrical Performances. — Placed in a Dilemma regarding Matrimony. 
— A singular Trait. — My Expectations are frustrated. — Character of 
Don Pedro Martinez. — Interior Arrangements of Mexican Houses. 
— Music. — Rumor of President Polk's Death. — How received. — 
Sad Results of the War. — Cause of the frequent Revolutions in Mex- 
ico. — Cock-fighting. 

Soon after our arrival, the house was thronged with 
visitors, who came to welcome the return of Don Pe- 
dro. I was introduced to them all, and they seemed 
to regard me with much curiosity ; many of them, 
probably, had never seen a foreigner before. In the 
evening my patron, as the Mexicans called him, paid 
a visit to several of his friends, and nothing would do 
but I must go with him. At every place where we 
called, the lady of the house would, after some con- 
versation, bring me a glass of wine or a cup of choc- 
olate. I was afterward frequently invited to their 
houses, and treated as though I had been a prince ; 
not that they really considered me as a person worth 
minding, but as a man in distress. They considered 
I had claims on their sympathy, and they strove to 



234 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

make me forget the troubles through which I had 
passed. I therefore enjoyed opportunities for obser- 
vation that I had never before possessed. 

The higher classes of this part of Mexico are early 
risers ; and when they first get up, a cup of choco^ 
late, with bread, is brought them. This lasts till ten 
or eleven, when a regular breakfast of meat, beans, 
and tortillas is served up. About three in the after- 
noon they dine. At five they take another cup of 
chocolate ; and they sup immediately before they re- 
tire for the night, which they generally do about 
eleven o'clock. Knives and forks and spoons are sel- 
dom used in eating, and never except among the very 
wealthiest ; they are too costly an article for common 
use. They take their meat in their fingers and tear 
it in pieces, and double up a piece of tortilla to an- 
swer for a spoon. 

They are good cooks, and know how to please the 
most fastidious ; but some of their habits are not in 
accordance with our views of cleanliness. I have 
seen women sitting at the door, looking over each 
other's heads, and every little while a quick, jerking 
motion of the hand, accompanied with a cracking 
noise of the nails, indicated their success in the hunt. 
When it is meal-time they go to cooking without 
washing their hands — a thing, in fact, which they 
often do only once a week. Yet they are neat and 
very tasteful in their dress. 

The Mexican ladies are very kind-hearted, and 
make affectionate wives ; but, unfortunately, they are 
often unfaithful. They are quick, violent, and im- 
pulsive in their feelings ; and in this lies the secret 



IN MEXICO. 235 

of their ruin. This feature is not confined to the 
lower classes, hut is common to all, hoth rich and 
poor, high and low. The ladies of pure Spanish blood 
are eminently beautiful. In this place there were 
quite a number of them. Their complexion was of 
marble whiteness, showing a delicate and slight rosy 
color in the cheek, with bright, large, dark eyes and 
heavy eyebrows. Their voices possess a flute-like 
softness ; and when heard from such lips, one will 
readily acknowledge the sweetness of the Spanish 
language. Yet the moral deformity mentioned above 
often spoils all their charms. 

The Mexican women, as a general rule, are not 
handsome ; they are, more or less, mixed with the 
Indian race, and want the clear complexion which 
we deem essential to female beauty ; but they have 
large, dark, sparkling eyes, high-colored lips, and good 
teeth. Their manner, however, is their principal 
charm. Whenever I entered a house (which even a 
stranger might do and be sure of a welcome), the 
seiioras would offer a seat, without rising, and would 
at once enter into conversation, with a very engaging 
piquancy and vivacity. After a short absence, a pret- 
ty dona immediately grasps her friend by the hand, 
and embraces him. This habit struck me at first as 
rather forward; but its every day occurrence soon 
showed me that it was only a common mode of recog- 
nition, and I soon became so used to it that I actu- 
ally enjoyed it. But the real grace and gusto with 
which two dirty and ragged old beggars will thus em- 
brace and hug each other is a singular sight. This 
practice is not confined to either sex. I may here re- 



■ 236 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

late how I was first victimized "by this friendly em- 
brace. During my residence in this place, I went to 
visit a friend at his rancho, some distance in the 
country. I remained there several days ; and when 
i was about to leave, I went to shake hands with my 
kind and beautiful hostess, and bid her good-by . She 
would not be satisfied with this, but at once em- 
braced me. This rather set me back ; but, not will- 
ing to appear bashful, I embraced her also, and with 
a good will ; and, in my ignorance, I proceeded to in- 
crease the fervor of my embrace with a few hearty 
kisses. I did not discover my mistake till a roar of 
laughter from behind led me to perceive my blunder. 
I was afterward very careful not to go any further 
than I saw others do ; and by this watching, I soon 
learned to conform to their customs without offend- 
ing good manners. 

I now come to speak of a subject that I would 
rather omit. From the priests I have, with but one 
or two exceptions, received nothing but kindness. 
They are generally well informed on all subjects, 
and for the most part liberally educated; but they 
are bigots in every sense of the word. The clergy 
are divided into three classes : the bishops, who have 
control over a state, or perhaps more ; the curas or 
curates, who have control over one, two, or more 
churches ; and the common priests, whom the curates 
pay by the month, generally at the rate of from twen- 
ty-five to fifty dollars each. I am not acquainted 
with the province or peculiar duties of the monks, 
and therefore I do not mention them. 

The revenue of the cura is derived from his mar- 



IN MEXICO. 237 

riage, funeral, and baptismal fees. With regard to 
the amount of marriage fees, each cura regulates 
that in his jurisdiction; and it is from fourteen to 
one hundred dollars, according to the condition of 
the parties. It often happens that the bridegroom 
is not able to pay the fee, in which case, as the man 
of G-od is inexorable, the poor fellow goes home, and, 
with the friends of his intended wife, gets up a fan- 
dango, which answers the same purpose as a weddmg. 
This is the cause of there being so few marriages 
among the poorer classes. 

The baptismal fees are from three to ten dollars ; 
this, also, is regulated by the cura. The burial fees 
are higher, ranging from thirty to one hundred dol- 
lars, and none can have the benefits of mass and a 
burial in consecrated ground unless these fees are 
paid ; so that those who are too poor to afford this 
are compelled to bury their dead in the field or by 
the road side. 

The revenue of the bishop is derived from a tithe 
or a per centage of the wealth and income of all the 
inhabitants. He claims a tenth part of the annual 
produce of all their stock (horses, sheep, and cattle) 
and lands, or an equivalent in money, and the poor 
laborer is forced to pay the tenth of his scanty earn- 
ings. This mode of taxation swells the income of a 
bishop to thousands of dollars annually. There are 
many, however, living in remote districts, who never 
pay his lordship their quota of tithes. In such cases 
the bishop has a right to take by force the portion 
belonging to him. 

I have seen some priests in this place so intoxica- 



238 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ted as to "be unable to walk alone, and they would 
seek company in the gutter, or cling to a lamp-post, 
and there remain until some passers-by took them 
up and carried them to their homes. In doing so 
they always took off their hats, and did not replace 
them until they had deposited their sacred burden in. 
his own house. This abject deference paid to the 
priests is universal. Even the richest, who, if any, 
could claim exemption, never meet one without tak- 
ing off their hats, and if they stop to speak, they re- 
main uncovered till they pass on. If a priest enters 
a house, the inmates all rise and remain standing, 
unless he seats himself, when they do so likewise. 
By the disciplme of the Church they are bound to a 
life of celibacy, but as they have passions like other 
men, and the articles of their faith do not much help 
them to subdue these passions, they indulge in the 
grossest licentiousness, and their characteristic ap- 
pearance is that of a bloated and sensual class of 
men. I do not speak at random, but have abundant 
proofs of what I assert. It may not be the same in 
other countries — I hope it is not ; but here, as I feel 
bound to state what I know, however repugnant to 
my feelings, I must say that these things are so. 

I will now describe one of the ceremonies of their 
Church, as it shows the character of their religion. 
When a person is sick, and is supposed to be at 
death's door, the great bell tolls, the people all flock 
to the church, and wait for the appearance of the 
priest. His carriage soon drives to the door, and he 
enters, dressed in gorgeous robes. Candles are then 
distributed, which they light, and sally forth, the men 



IN MEXICO. 239 

before and the women behind the carriage ; and as 
they pass along, they say prayers for the benefit of 
the dying person. All take off their hats, and along 
the streets through which they pass, all who are not 
in the procession kneel, remove their hats, and go to 
praying with great apparent fervor. This they call 
God going to give a through ticket to paradise ; 
but, from the noise and number of people engaged, 
it more resembles a motley crowd than a rational 
manner of serving. the great Jehovah. "When the 
priest passes in his stately coach, should a poor sin- 
ner be so stubborn as to refuse taking off his hat and 
kneel down, it is usually knocked off, and he is forced 
to kneel. It is truly surprising how the educated 
and thinking class of this people can be made to be- 
lieve in these mockeries ; but they adore their priest 
more than their Grod, and his word is absolute law. 

The habit is universal among the Mexicans for 
both sexes to wear around the neck a medal or cross, 
suspended by a rosary. The medals, which are of 
brass, and of English manufacture, often bear the 
image and name of the patron saint of the wearer, 
but, more generally, th-ey are stamped with the fig- 
ure and name of "TAe Lady of Guadaloupe^^'' of 
whom they tell many miraculous stories. On the 
reverse of the medal is inscribed, '' Non fecit taliter 
omni nationi^^^ which a late writer on Mexico witti- 
ly translates, ''/SAe never made such a fool of any 
other nation^"" The crosses are often of silver or gold. 

The love of ornaments and false jewelry prevalent 
among the lower classes is remarkable. Every wom- 
an has her fingers loaded with brass rings set with 



240 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

glass ; and such is the demand for these trinkets, that 
traders find them the most profitable articles they 
can carry out. 

I v^ill now give a brief description of the country 
around Iztlan. On one side of the village is an ex- 
tensive valley, and several lakes can be seen within 
the circuit of two leagues. The village itself is well 
built, and richly adorned with handsome public and 
private gardens. The various kinds of tropical fruits 
are grown to perfection. In the rear of the town 
are vast mountains, raising their tops to an immense 
height ; they seem to be piled one on another, and 
thrown together with the utmost confusion. I judged 
that their average height exceeds six thousand feet, 
because eight thousand is said to be the region of 
perpetual snow, and many of these were covered with 
snow, while there is little difference in their average 
height. 

There are numerous mines of silver, several of 
which are extensively worked. Their method of ex- 
tracting the silver deserves a short notice. It is 
brought from the mines by pack mules, and when 
enough is collected to enable them to grind to ad- 
vantage, it is ground fine, and then placed in a vat 
filled with water. It is now stirred till all the dirt is 
washed out. Below the vat are earthen cups, placed 
at regular intervals, for two rods or more, so that, 
should any silver escape from the vat, these cups 
would catch it. "When it is all washed out, the wa- 
ter is drawn off, and the silver is collected by means 
of quicksilver. From the smallness of their mills, it 
is a slow and expensive process. 



IN MEXICO. 241 

I was one day invited by a proprietor to visit one 
of his mines on the opposite side of the mountain. 
A mule was furnished me for this purpose, and we 
started at an early hour. Our course was winding, 
to avoid as much as possible the steep precipices, of 
which there are many ; and in some places it was so 
steep that I thought it was impossible to ascend ; but 
the mule is a sure-footed animal, and ascended those 
places with the ease and agility of a deer. After a 
three hours' ride we came to the opposite side, when 
another beautiful valley was presented to our sight, 
and a large and beautiful town, called Ahualulco. 

We soon reached the mine. Here a small hut was 
built to accommodate the miners, and around were 
large quantities of rock that had been blasted, ready 
to be packed off on mules. After partaking of a 
lunch, we entered the mine. The passage was nar- 
row, so low that we could not stand upright, and so 
dark and winding that none could traverse it without 
a light, however well acquainted with it. In several 
places the vein ran into branches, and these had been 
worked to the termination. To prevent accidents 
from caving in, every cavity was propped up with 
heavy timbers as they advanced. The vein had been 
worked to the depth of a hundred yards, and its size 
varied from one to one and a half yards square. Aft- 
er they had blasted, the rocks were carried out in a 
sort of basket, made of thick, heavy hides. 

This mine yielded, on an average, twenty dollars 
daily ; and so long as it yielded that, they would not 
abandon it. The miners had a certain proportion, 
which made their wages better than Working on a 

L 



242 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

farm. At three o'clock we mounted our mules to 
return. While we were yet on the side of the mount- 
ain, I got along very well ; but when we came to the 
steeps, it appeared so dangerous to remain on the 
mule, that I dismounted and slid down, not being 
able to walk. By doing so I exposed myself to the 
ridicule of my companion, who descended in safety, 
and with perfect ease. We reached home about nine 
o'clock, greatly fatigued after so hard a ride. 

These mountains, I am informed, are full of mineral 
wealth, principally silver and copper. The latter is 
seldom worked, as it does not pay the great expense 
of mining. Grold is occasionally found ; but the veins 
are not so large as the silver, seldom exceeding one 
or two fingers, and they are generally imbedded in a 
whitish quartz rock. The gold is pure, never being 
alloyed with any other metal. 

There is one peculiarity in these mines that struck 
me as something quite singular. It is, that where 
silver is found in large quantities, gold seldom occurs, 
at least not in the same mountain ; and the reverse 
also holds true, for where gold is found iu any quan- 
tity, silver is not. This feature may not be applica- 
ble to all parts, but I was informed by the oldest 
and most experienced miners that it is the case here. 

At Iztlan I saw some Indians that were very dif- 
ferent from the regular Mexican Indians. They lived 
about twenty leagues distant. The account I heard 
of them is so singular that I consider it worth relat- 
ing. It is derived from a priest of this place, and 
therefore entitled to some credit. They are a large 
and powerful tribe ; and from the best information 



liN MEXICO. 243 

that can be obtained, they occupy one of the largest 
and most beautiful valleys in Mexico, which is com- 
pletely walled in by high and almost impassable 
mountains. Living in this retired spot, they had 
never been conquered by the Spaniards. They have 
maintained their primitive language and forms of 
worship, and in nothing have they become assimilated 
to the Spaniards. No stranger is allowed to reside 
among them. Some Catholic missionaries had at- 
tempted to do so, to convert them to the Catholic 
faith ; but they were expelled, though without vio- 
lence. 

These Indians are said to be in possession of some 
very valuable mines of gold and silver. They make 
annual excursions into the neighboring country to 
sell their wares. But few of them can speak any 
other language than their own. The party that I 
saw consisted of six tall, straight, athletic men, ac- 
companied by an interpreter. Their articles for sale 
consisted of blankets, baskets, and silver-ware. Their 
blankets were the most beautiful of any that I ever 
saw, being made of the finest wool, and dyed of vari- 
ous and brilliant colors. Their silver-ware consisted 
of pitchers, cups, and vases, well shaped, beautifully 
engraved with hieroglyphics, and profusely ornament- 
ed with gold and silver. From the style of the work- 
manship, I was sure it could not have been executed 
by a Mexican artist, but that they themselves must 
have been acquainted with many of the arts of civ- 
ilized life.* I felt a great desire to visit this smgular 

* In their manners and dress they appeared every way superior to 
the Mexicans, and their mechanical skill was certainly of a high order. 



244 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES " ^ 

tribe, who had successfully resisted all attempts to 
conquer or convert them; and for this purpose, I 
pressed the interpreter to obtain this privilege for me 
of the man v^^ho appeared to be the leader. A shake 
of the head invariably showed the result of my ap- 
plication. 

This short account of these Indians suggested 
many reflections as to the causes of the present deg- 
radation of the Indian population of Mexico. Orig- 
inally they were conquered more effectually by the 
priests who had been sent from Spain, than by the 
force of arms. Being naturally fond of parade and 
show, the priests adapted their worship to their pe- 
culiar tastes ; they introduced the greatest pomp into 
their religious services, held numerous festivals, in 
which was a grand display of fire-works, processions, 
&c. This was just suited to the capacity of the sim- 
ple-hearted Indian ; and their speedy conversion was 
the result. Intermarriages followed, making their 
subjugation more thorough and complete. This was 
a master-stroke of policy ; and its success showed the 
wisdom and sagacity of its projectors. But where a 
tribe or nation has been successful in keeping entirely 
separate and distinct from their invaders, allowing 
and preventing all settlements within their borders, 
they have preserved their independence with the same 
language and system of worship that they had during 
. the reign of the Montezumas. The further pursuit 
of these reflections I will leave to abler writers. 

It was now the middle of January, and the weather 
was bleak and cold, the immediate vicinity of these 
snow-capped mountains causing it to be much colder 



IN MEXICO. 245 

than otherwise it would be. The Mexicans obviated 
this by increasing their quantity of clothing, as less 
expensive than keeping fires, which they never use 
more than is absolutely necessary to do their cooking. 
Wood is a costly article, and is bought as they re- 
quire it, by the sixpence worth. At this rate it costs 
at least ten dollars per cord. Charcoal is also much 
used in cooking, and sold at sixpence the half peck. 
At these rates, it is easily seen that fires can not be 
kept by the common people for the purpose of warm- 
ing rooms or making them comfortable, but every 
Mexican wraps himself closely in his blanket. This 
is an article of universal use ; it serves as a coat, um- 
brella, and bed, and nothing so truly indicates the 
wealth of the wearer as this. They may be had at 
prices ranging from two to one hundred and fifty dol- 
lars. The more costly kinds are extremely fine, and 
require from four to six months to weave them. A 
Mexican never goes from home any distance without 
his blanket ; and if on horseback, he is usually armed 
with his sword. This latter practice, however, is 
more the result of custom than necessity. If a man 
is only going to his hacienda, where danger could not 
possibly be apprehended, he makes the same prepara- 
tion that he would for a long journey. 

I have not yet spoken of the immense number of 
dogs in this country. It seems to me to be beyond 
all calculation. They are said to be mostly crossed 
with the prah'ie wolf, and have a miserable, mean 
appearance ; I do not know that I saw a fine-looking 
dog in all Mexico. The pet dogs are called ''co- 
manche," for what reason I know not. They are not 



246 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

large, and are entirely without hair, presenting a dis- 
gusting and filthy appearance ; and to strangers they 
are very annoying. I should advise every traveler 
in Mexico to provide himself with a revolver, for at 
sight of this they apprehend danger as readily as their 
masters. This is a safeguard against all evil doers, 
both of man and dog. 

About this time occurred a festival which I had 
never witnessed before. The place designed for the 
exhibition was the Plaza de Gallos, or place used 
for cock-fighting. This was a large, round building, 
furnished with seats one above the other. There 
were two entrances to it, at one of which scenery was 
erected, and staging for the accommodation of the 
performers. Every thing possible was done to make 
a fair representation of a theater. 

On the day appointed, this apology for a theater 
was crowded to overflowing, the aristocracy attend- 
ing with anxious curiosity depicted on their counte- 
nances. The performance commenced at an early 
hour. "When the curtain rose, there stood a man 
dressed with a long black robe, trimmed with broad 
silver lace ; his head was girt with a wide band, richly 
studded with silver, and long, curling ringlets fell 
gracefully over his shoulders. Above his head waved 
a majestic plume. In a low, trembling voice, he began 
a colloquy ; and he was soon joined by another man in 
a military uniform. Violent words were exchanged, 
which ended in a furious quarrel, when the curtain 
dropped. 

This was the first scene. The second soon fol- 
lowed ; for now all were startled by the sound of 



IN MEXICO. 247 

jingling bells, and the discord of many voices attempt- 
ing to sing. On looking at the entrance opposite the 
stage, we saw ten or twelve men coming, dressed in 
a most fantastic style, each one bearing a long pole, 
to one end of which was attached a bell. They ad- 
vanced with slow and measured step, singing as they 
advanced, and keeping time with their music by 
bringing their poles heavily on the ground, and caus- 
ing the bells to jingle. Their music resembled a 
congregation of owls giving concerts more than that 
produced by human voices. On coming to the stage, 
they stopped, held a short colloquy, and then ascend- 
ed it. Some earthen pots were now brought in, filled 
with victuals. They all sat down to eat, and a more 
grotesque or ridiculous scene could scarce be imag- 
ined ; each one tried to excel the other in playing the 
monkey or the fool. A good half hour was thus oc- 
cupied, when they arose, sang another song, and the 
curtain dropped. 

Another scene was now introduced. A young wom- 
an, whose beautiful dress set off her more than lovely 
face to good advantage, was alone on the stage. She 
commenced speaking in a low tone, when she was 
joined by her husband. They were on a journey, 
troubled with that worst of all complaints, want of 
money, begging charity at every door, and at every 
door refused. A donkey was then brought in, with 
which to pursue their journey. The lady mounted ; 
but his donkey ship, either not liking the appearance 
of things around him, or being naturally a little mis- 
chievous, refused to stir. They beat him and pushed 
him, but all would not do. The more they wanted 



248 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

him, the more he wouldn't. At length he responded 
to their attentions by kicking, which he did in a man- 
ner that only a donkey knows how. The lady was 
greatly frightened, but could not dismount. The poor 
animal then took a sudden start, and jumped off the 
stage into the midst of the ladies below, producing 
the greatest confusion, and screams in abundance. 
Here he was soon brought to a stand ; the lady dis- 
mounted, and soon ascertained that she was not hurt. 
She again ascended the stage, when she was joined 
by another lady, dressed in a similar manner. They 
held a short colloquy, and then left the stage. A mai^ 
now made his appearance, dressed in a most comical 
style, and his habiliments were arranged in such a 
manner that it gave him the appearance of a giant j 
his hat was near eighteen inches high, and the rim 
ten or twelve wide. He attempted to play the clown, 
and to his auditors afforded some amusement ; but I 
thought it any thing but amusing. 

At the commencement of the performance I had 
been invited to sit in a private seat, occupied by a 
lady and her daughter. "When the two ladies made 
their appearance on the stage, the one next me in- 
quired which of the two I thought the most beauti- 
ful. I replied that the one by her side, her daugh- 
ter, I thought, was the most beautiful, and, if I was 
allowed a choice, I should prefer her to all the others 
in the crowd. This I thought would be the end of 
the matter. But my lady friend thought otherwise, 
for in a few days I received an invitation to call at 
her house. "Wondering, and not dreaming what could 
be the object of this request, I went there forthwith. 



IN MEXICO. 249 

She received me with great cordiality, handed me a 
seat, and at once commenced conversing about the 
performance of the other evening. After she had 
dwelt on generalities as long as it suited her, she 
asked if it was my intention to remain in Mexico, 
and not return to my country. A very faint idea of 
what she was driving at now dawned on my mind, 
and I shaped my replies accordingly. I therefore 
told her I should remain here. She then inquired if 
it was really my intention to marry. I told her that 
one great difficulty hindered me, which was the want 
of sufficient funds to enable me to enter at once into 
some lucrative business ; and the objection that most 
young ladies would have to wed with one so advanced 
in years (I was actually twenty-six), and who was 
both a stranger and a foreigner. To this she replied, 
that with regard to funds it was of minor conse- 
quence, as they could easily be supplied ; and the 
latter objection was of no weight, as age was not 
considered, and foreigners were preferred to natives. 
This last assertion my after experience proved to be 
true. 

After beating the bush some time, she asked me, 
in round terms, how I would like her daughter. To 
this home question I replied that, as it was a subject 
so entirely new to me, I must beg the indulgence of 
a few days to consider it, when I would give her a 
decided answer. With this assurance she seemed 
satisfied. I then took my leave, promising to repeat 
my visit soon. With regard to the young lady, I 
can only say that she was in possession of consider- 
able property, and exquisitely beautiful, and that she 
L2 



250 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

would, no doubt, have made as good a wife as any 
Mexican woman. 

I have mentioned the preceding scenes, as showing 
the state of the people in regard to taste and intel- 
lectual culture. The Carnival continued some three 
weeks. I will say no more of it here, but may speak 
of it hereafter when describing other festivals. With 
regard to the proposition for marriage, it need only be 
said that matrons do not think it at all indecorous to 
seek husbands for their daughters, neither do the 
daughters think it out of character to ask a young 
man to have them. The most probable reason why 
I was received thus favorably was, that on my first 
arrival, my friend Don Pedro, either because he was 
anxious to show off the value of my acquaintance, or 
for some other reason, I know not what, had reported 
that I was not only an Irishman, and of course a good 
Catholic, but was, in my country, a man of wealth. 
They finally got it that I was some way connected 
with some noble family; and as the report was so 
currently believed, I of course would not deny it, but 
was willing to enjoy all the benefits of my newly-ac- 
quired honors ; and, if I am not mistaken, the pros- 
pect I had of getting a rich wife was wholly or in 
part owing to these reports. 

It will be recollected that I came here with a view 
of teaching some little boys the English language. 
I have nearly overlooked this subject. On my ar- 
rival at my friend's house, he showed me two bright, 
mischievous-looking boys, who hereafter were to be 
placed under my tuition. I soon ascertained that as 
yet they could hardly read ; I, however, engaged in 



IN MEXICO, 251 

my new duties with as much industry as I could 
muster. They would sometimes be rather stuhborn 
and refractory, and I took the same measures to 
make them submit that I would have done under 
the same ckcumstances in my own country. But it 
did not suit the case here : the old man fretted ; the 
woman scolded ; the boys ran away, and I closed my 
school. I soon found that nothing which had been 
promised me relative to business would ever be per- 
formed. Don Pedro was as kind and obliging as ever. 
But the difficulty was, that not one of the many prom- 
ises he made did he remember five minutes after he 
had made it. His profession yielded him a gresrt in- 
come, but so bad was his management that he was 
always poor. He was a slave to the vice of gam- 
bling. When he was lucky he generally gave me a 
good portion of his winnings ; and if an insult was 
given me, he would resent it as quickly as though it 
had been offered to himself. He once went out of 
his house, sword in hand, to punish a drunken wretch 
who had thrown a stone at me, and he was appeased 
only when the man was taken to jail. From these 
circumstances, I am thoroughly convinced that he 
would have done all that he promised could he have 
been made to act while it was yet fresh in his mind ; 
but he was too indolent to do more than he was act- 
ually compelled to do for his own subsistence. 

I must now give some account of the interior ar- 
rangements of a Mexican household. In the largest 
houses they have but few rooms, but these are large 
and spacious ; chairs and sofas are not used except 
by the very wealthiest ; but, where it can be afford- 



252 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ed, benolies are substituted. Often there are none 
even of these, when the ladies are forced to sit on a 
mat, v^hich is spread on the floor. This mat is also 
used to sleep on. Very iew have tables, and those 
that I saw were made of oak plank, some two inches 
thick, three feet wide, and generally eight or ten feet 
long. An American lady would, in my humble opin- 
ion, cut a poor figure in commencing to keep house 
with no more furniture than this. 

The Mexicans have a great taste for music. The 
guitar and the harp are the instruments most gen- 
erally used, and these they touch with exquisite skill. 
It is quite amusing to see dirty, ragged beggars take 
hold of these instruments and play at the fandangoes, 
attended by the aristocracy, with the skill of a cele- 
brated artist. 

At this time a rumor spread that President Polk 
was dead. The news diffused universal joy through- 
out the village ; the bells were rung, guns were fired, 
and in the evening there was a display of fire- works. 
They rejoiced because they hoped that now peace 
would be made. The nation was tired of the war. 
They said that they were already so largely in debt 
that it was almost impossible for them to get out of 
it, and this war was plunging them into debt still 
deeper and deeper. Their ports were all blockaded, 
and foreign commerce was stopped, producing a per- 
fect stagnation of trade. Their business men were 
all opposed to the war, but their military leaders 
panted for glory, and they reaped it in defeat. But 
that this war will be of some ultimate benefit to 
Mexico, every candid man will admit. They may, 



IN MEXICO. 253 

for instance, see the utility of forming a strong, vig- 
orous government. The experience of past misfor- 
tunes should suggest improvements for the future. 
That they are incapahle of governing themselves, 
their past history plainly shows, and they have still 
nearly an annual revolution. The people have no 
sectional jealousies — ^nothing to cause these frequent 
pronunciamentos. They are the result of having so 
many restless, turhulent spirits commanding their 
armies. So long as these are suffered to dictate to 
the civil rulers, as they often do, so long will they 
have an unsettled and unstable government. When 
speaking on this subject, I have heard eminent men 
say that they really hoped the whole country would 
come under the jurisdiction of the United States, for 
then they would have a strong and vigorous govern- 
ment, capable of carrying out its measures with en- 
ergy. Of this they had ocular demonstration during 
the war. 

Having mentioned the subject of cock-fighting, I 
may add that this practice is universal in Mexico, 
and at Iztlan it is practiced with a zest and frequen- 
cy truly remarkable. Every Sabbath afternoon the 
Plaza de G-allos is filled ; judges are chosen ; a ring 
is formed ; and the combatants, being previously 
armed with long, sharp steel gaffs or blades, fasten- 
ed to their spurs, are then let loose, when they fly at 
each other in perfect fury, and use their steel blades 
with great precision. One is generally killed, and 
sometimes both. When a stranger comes in with a 
game-cook, and wishes to give a challenge, he pro- 
cures a red sash, and folds the little warrior within 



254 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

it; he then gets some one with a violin, and with 
this music marches all over the town. This is con- 
sidered a challenge, and in the afternoon the place is 
crowded to witness the combat. At these amuse- 
ments I have seen thousands of dollars change hands 
at a single game. Judges are appointed to decide 
the game, and also to hold the stakes. Bull-fighting 
is another common amusement; but, never having 
witnessed one, I will say no more of it. 



IN MEXICO. 255 



CHAPTER XI. 

Departure from Iztlan. — Arrive at Amatlan. — Visit to a Gold Mine. 
— Situation of Amatlan. — Hot Spring. — Mexican Names. — Prac- 
tice of Medicine. — OfBce of Alcalde. — Judicial Cases. — Mode of 
Swearing. — Join an Expedition against a Band of Robbers. — The 
Result. — Career of a Murderer. — Schools. — Peonage. — Gambling. 
— Fandangoes. — The Carnival. — Lent. — Processions. — A serio- 
comical Scene. — Visit another Gold Mine. — A Rose in the Desert. 
— Remove to Garabato. — Remarkable Phenomenon there. — Dis- 
graceful Scenes. — Stung by a Scorpion. 

I WAS now very anxious to leave Iztlan, though 
where to go I knew not, as I had been informed that 
the American fleet was not yet at San Bias. I made 
frequent applications to my friend Don Pedro for per- 
mission and assistance to leave him and go to Topic. 
To this he strenuously objected. He urged the dan- 
gers of the road, and the present impossibility of get- 
ting out of the country. It was useless to urge, for 
to let me go he would not consent ; and, in order to 
induce me to remain, he now mentioned the subject 
of marriage with the young lady before spoken of. 
He said she was in favor of it, and her mother was 
anxious to have it take place. He further said that, 
with her wealth, I could live like a gentleman, and 
no longer be a beggar as I had formerly been. Our 
conversations on this subject were numerous, and at 
length I desisted entirely from mentioning it. His 
secretary, however, took part in my favor. He ad- 
vised me to remain quiet for the present, for in a few 



256 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

days Don Pedro was going to a distant place on some 
business, to remain several weeks, and he would man- 
age it so that I should go with them, and thence I 
could easily get to Tepic. 

I now appeared to be contented, and not in the 
least desirous of leaving. At length the day of de- 
parture came. My patron inquired if I wished to 
go to Amatlan. I told him I did. He then ordered 
me a mule, and in four days we were on the way. 
Previous to starting, Don Jesus procured a bottle of 
aguadiente, unknown to Don Pedro, who, knowing 
the habits of his secretary, would have opposed this 
strenuously. 

The country, for a part of the way, was settled ; 
but most of it was wild, rough, and uninhabited 
Every little while the secretary would fall behinc 
his employer and take a drink of the liquor, in whicl 
I sometimes joined him, for the liquor was excellent 
The road was wild and gloomy, and I felt like a bird 
just let loose from a cage. 

Our journey that day was eighteen leagues, and 
we did not arrive at our destined place until after 
dark. Just before reaching it I became separated 
from my friends, and as it was pitchy dark, I lost my 
way ; I felt confident, however, that I was near the 
suburbs of the town, but where to go I knew not. I 
therefore resalved to trust to the instincts of the mule, 
and let him pursue the way he thought best, of course 
supposing that he would fetch up somewhere. After 
a few moments he stopped, and, for all I could do, he 
would not move another inch. I then dismounted to 
examine the ground, when I discovered that he had 



IN MEXICO. 257 

stopped at the foot of a steep bluff, and one tliat lie 
could not ascend. I searched for the path, but in 
vain. I then called lustily for help, and a man soon 
appeared. I told him my trouble ; he put me in the 
road, and accompanied me to the alcalde's. 

Here I found my friends, awaiting my arrival with 
some anxiety, and I also met several persons that I 
had seen at Iztlan. The alcalde was an old ac- 
quaintance, with whom I stayed. The next morn- 
ing I took a view of the town. It is surrounded with 
high mountains, which are said to be full of valuable 
mines, but they are not worked : one, a gold mine, I 
visited in company with Don Jesus. It had not been 
worked for a great many years. It was about a hund- 
red feet deep, and the vein was about as large as my 
finger. From the amount of metal it appeared to 
contain, I should think it might be worked to advant- 
age ; but the Mexicans are too indolent to do any 
thing with it further than to supply their most press- 
ing wants, and hardly that. 

I said that this mine is not worked, but I will 
state an exception to this remark. If a Mexican is 
sorely pressed for money, and can not raise it in any 
other way, he will take his drill, go to the mine, take 
one or two blasts, grind the rock, and separate the 
gold. In this operation he will frequently make two 
or three dollars a day. When again pressed with 
want, he will again resort to this laborious method 
of supplying his necessities. This is the full extent 
to which this or any other mine in this vicinity is 
worked. None seem to care for any thing above 
their present wants. 



258 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

The town is situated in a sort of basin, and so low 
and small that a cool breeze is seldom felt. In ad- 
dition to this, there is a hot spring close to one side 
of the village, and so warm that it will cook an egg 
in a few moments. The heat arising from this, to- 
gether with the location, renders this one of the hot- 
test places that I ever saw. But it is decidedly a 
fruit-growing place ; cocoa-nuts, a fruit that I never 
saw growing before, are produced in great abundance. 
The trees are very tall and slender, tapering to a mere 
point. The fruit grows close to the top of the trunk. 
There are no limbs, and but few leaves. 

"With regard to the hot spring, different theories 
exist as to its cause. Some suppose that it is the 
action of different metals, others that a combination 
of acids and alkalis heats the water to its present de- 
gree. There is also a large creek passing through 
here, into which the hot water runs ; and at the junc- 
tion is an excellent place for bathing, the water being 
tempered to the proper degree of heat. 

I have been often struck with the singularity of 
many of the names in Mexico. I here ascertained 
that they are of Indian origin. Amatlan is pure In- 
dian, and signifies the land of fruit ; Etztlan is the 
land of roses, and Hicacatlan the land of fire, there 
being a volcano near that city in active operation at 
the present time. 

The little knowledge of medicine which I possessed 
was of the greatest advantage to me. I have been 
sent for a distance of five leagues to visit the sick, 
and liberally paid. Once I was called even a greater 
distance, to visit a man who had a cancer on his face. 



IN MEXICO. 259 

It had grown to such a size that his whole face was 
completely disfigured ; but for him there was no help 
for want of medicines. I could do nothing to speak 
of in any difficult case ; yet the fact that they re- 
garded me as a doctor insured me good treatment. 
I am thoroughly convinced that a physician might 
do a good business here. The pay is good ; and in 
very few places only would he have any competition. 
He might have all to himself for a range of twenty 
leagues around him. The expenses of living are 
trifling ; two shillings a day will pay one's board, and 
if he prefers keeping house, sixpence a day would be 
sufficient to pay for his provisions. 

Havmg frequently mentioned alcaldes, I will now 
say something relative to the duties and responsibil- 
ities of that office, as I observed it in this town. I 
was now residing with the alcalde of this place, and 
had a good opportunity of observing them. He is 
both a justice of the peace and a judge. His decis- 
ions are nearly absolute, and subject only to the su- 
pervision of the supreme judge of the district. In 
criminal cases he generally passes sentence as he 
thinks proper, of confinement either in jail, or in the 
state prison, which is in this state at G-uadalajara. 
"While I was here, three were sent, under a strong 
escort, to the state prison. In very extraordinary 
cases, the prisoner has a regular trial, and is then sent 
to jail, when the alcalde sends a report of the trial 
and testimony to the first judge, who resides in Tepic. 
The latter pronounces sentence, which is carried into 
effect by the alcalde. 

I will relate one instance that occurred under my 



260 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

Observation. A man entered a house, murdered a 
woman and two children, and cut the father of the 
children severely on the head with a sword. The 
murderer was arrested and hrought hefore the alcalde. 
The case was then examined, when sufficient proof 
was found against him, and he was confined in jail. 
The wounded man was then inspected, to ascertain 
if his wound was dangerous. I was called on to 
do this duty. I soon ascertained that it was, under 
existing circumstances, likely to prove fatal, as no 
care whatever had been taken to dress it ; and in so 
hot a climate, the chances were that he would never 
get well, and I gave my opinion accordingly. Sev- 
eral days were then occupied in making out a report, 
hoth as to the three murders, and the attempted mur- 
der of the fourth. With regard to the last, I signed 
my name as examining surgeon as to the dangerous 
nature of the wound ; and, in fact, within two weeks, 
the poor man died. The report was sent to Tepic ; 
but I did not remain long enough to hear the result 
of the affair. 

Another instance of a different character will show 
the great power of the alcalde. A man was owing 
me for some professional services, and either would 
not or could not pay. I told the alcalde of it, and he 
wrote a letter commanding the debtor* to come at 
once and pay me. The letter was given to a little 
boy to deliver, and the next morning early the man 
came and paid up, making all sorts of apologies for 
not having done so before. 

"When a person is sworn, the alcalde takes his staff 
of office and makes a cross with it. The person tak- 



IN MEXICO. 261 

ing the oath does the same with his finger and thumb. 
By this cross he is sworn to tell " the truth, the whole 
truth, and nothing but the truth." During this cer- 
emony all in the court room rise. 

At this time a man came into the place and report- 
ed the appearance of a band of robbers at a hacienda 
some two leagues distant. In consequence of this 
report, the inhabitants were greatly alarmed, and the 
alcalde ordered out thirty horsemen, well armed with 
lances, swords, and carbines. A horse was also pro- 
vided for me, as I was anxious to join the enterprise, 
an adventure of this kind suiting my mind, because 
of the fun and excitement always attending them. 
I was furnished with a sword, a carbine, and a brace 
of pistols. In about an hour we were ready to start. 
"We passed over the ground at top speed, and in little 
more than an hour arrived at the place where the 
robbers had been. Some of the buildings had been 
destroyed, and all plundered of every thing that was 
valuable. The cattle and horses also were taken oiF. 
But the miscreants were gone. 

The inhabitants had fled at the first appearance of 
danger, and secreted themselves. "When they saw us 
coming, they returned and informed us of the road 
the banditti had taken. Instant and vigorous pursuit 
was now ordered. They had about half an hour's 
start of us, but we were confident of overtaking them. 
Previous to starting from the village, our orders were 
to arrest all strangers that we found without a pass- 
port ; for the law is such that any person must have 
one to pass even from one district to another, other- 
wise he is liable to be arrested as a thief. 



262 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

"We now pushed on with renewed vigor, and in 
about two hours we came in sight of them. They 
discovered us at the same time, and at once began to 
separate. They left a portion of the plunder that en- 
cumbered them the most, and made all haste to cross 
the mountains. The excitement now became in- 
tense, both with the pursuers and the pursued. We 
followed up the mountain some distance, when we 
succeeded in overtaking a portion of them. On our 
coming up, they made a stand and fired two rounds, 
wounding three of our men. We returned the fire, 
and charged on them at the same moment. They 
numbered about the same as we did ; and the con- 
flict was now with the sword. It was short and se- 
vere ; but we succeeded in capturing them, four being 
killed on our part, and five wounded. The loss on 
theirs was nearly double that number. The rest of 
their party was by this time so far ahead of us that 
pursuit was impracticable. We therefore tied togeth- 
er with a rope those that we had taken, and returned 
with them, and the mules, and horses, and other ef- 
fects that had been stolen. We searched the prison- 
ers, and found some money, which we divided as law- 
ful prize, amounting to some ten dollars each. We 
got back to Amatlan about sunset, and our captives 
were put in jail, where they remained till I left. 
What became of them afterward I know not. This 
band had been very troublesome for some time ; but 
now it was effectually broken up, as the remainder 
gave no further trouble. 

At this place I accidentally became acquainted 
with an American who holds a commission in the 



IN MEXICO. 263 

Mexican army. As his history is singular, I will 
here insert it, premising that I do not vouch for its 
truth, hut give it as he related it. He was formerly 
a miner in Wisconsin, where, in company with an- 
other man, he owned a valuable mine. Some diffi- 
culty occurred with a third person, in which he killed 
the latter. He then escaped as soon as possible, and 
went to Pittsburg. He remained there until he had 
exhausted his funds, when he served for some time as 
a hand on a steam-boat. To get still further away, 
he enlisted in the United States service, and went to 
Corpus Christi. Thence he deserted, and joined the 
Mexicans at Matamoros. He received a commission 
in their army, and was in nearly all the battles with 
the Americans, in which he invariably chewed the 
bitter cud of defeat. He was with G-eneral Urrea at 
the battle of Marine, on the memorable 24th of Feb- 
ruary, when I was taken prisoner. Fortunately, he 
did not recognize me. He gave me some additional 
information relative to that capture, which, however, 
need not now be mentioned. Never yet have I felt so 
strong a desire to take life as I did this man's. The 
miscreant, after taking part in one of the most hor- 
rible massacres ever recorded, made a boast of what 
he had plundered and what he had done. He lives, 
a disgrace to himself and to his country. He has 
been amply rewarded by the Mexican government for 
his treachery ; so, in fact, have all the deserters. Still, 
many of them are in a miserable condition, without 
money, clothes, or friends, and despised by evsry 
honorable man. Though the Mexicans may give 
them some little assistance, they heartily despise the 



264 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

treachery that brought them to their present condi- 
tion. 

It was now the 24th of February, and I had been 
a prisoner one year. During that time I had seen a 
large portion of this country, and traveled upward of 
two thousand miles on foot. I had experienced al- 
most every vicissitude of fortune that a man could 
well experience within so short a period of time ; I had 
been at times feasted, and at times almost starved. 

As an apology for my narrative being irregular, 
and often disconnected, I may observe that the cir- 
cumstances under which I took my notes compelled 
me to be very brief, and to omit many things neces- 
sary to a regular narrative, which are now so much 
out of my mind that, as I can not clearly recall them, 
I am obliged to overlook them altogether. With this 
apology, I will proceed to describe their manner of 
conducting a school. 

At Amatian I was invited by the teacher to visit 
his school, and at the time appointed I went. On 
entering, all the scholars rose and gave me a sort of 
military salute. It numbered some fifty-seven schol- 
ars. They were all reading aloud when I went in ; 
some had newspapers, some little pamphlets, but not 
one had a regular school-book. I was conducted to 
a seat, which was elevated above the floor. A segar 
was given me to smoke, in which the master joined. 
He then showed me the writing of the scholars, and 
also his own ; and, in truth, I must say that, were it 
to save my life, I could not read it. It was no better 
than a scrawl made by a new beginner. He then got 
his arithmetic, and urged me to teach him, remark- 



IN MEXICO. 265 

ing, at the same time, that he had gone no further 
than simple addition. I declined teaching him, urg- 
ing as my reason that I was not a good arithmetician. 
"When it was time to close the school, each boy was 
ordered up to read. On coming to his presence, every 
urchin would kneel down as to his Grod, and on his 
bended knees read his lesson, and then return to his 
seat. This was repeated till all had read, when the 
school closed. This manner of conducting a school 
is universal in this country. Let it not be under- 
stood, however, that all teachers are so supremely ig- 
norant ; far from it. Some are well-educated and in- 
telligent men ; but in remote places like this, almost 
any ignoramus is capable of teaching their school. 
They have colleges so munificently endowed by the 
government that the expenses of a collegiate course 
are very trifling ; yet none but the sons of the rich 
can get access to them. 

I now come to ^peak of their system of peonage. 
By a law of Mexico, slaves can not exist there, for the 
moment they touch Mexican soil, that moment they 
become free. But they have a system of slavery near- 
ly as bad as that of the United States. If a man is 
so unfortunate as to become involved in debt, how- 
ever small it may be, and can not pay it, he is obliged 
to serve the creditor until the sum is paid. By the 
adroit management of the latter, and the careless stu- 
pidity of the former, this is seldom done. When the 
interest is calculated, and the expenses of his living, 
clothing, &c., are added, it may readily be seen his 
slavery must often be hopeless, although it comes 
under another name. Nor does it end at his death ; 

M 



266 TRAVELS AIS'D ADVENTURES 

for the children are bound by the father's debt, in ad- 
dition to those they may accumulate for their own 
support, before they can earn it. They can not be 
bought and sold, but their debts may be bought, which 
is tantamount to buying the body. The only feature 
in which this is distinct from slavery is this : fami- 
lies can not be separated. If a peon is transferred to 
another person, his family goes with him. 

I now wish to speak more fully of their habits of 
gambling. I witnessed more of it at Amatlan than 
at any other place. Their most common game is 
monte, whose mysteries can be learned only by los- 
ing at it. The coolness with which a Mexican will 
lose sum after sum is remarkable, their countenan- 
ces never changing. Men, women, and children, as 
soon as they begin to talk, may be seen at the green- 
cloth table. I here saw the priests, dressed in their 
sacred robes, gamble with greasy rancheros. Sitting 
on the curb-stones and in the streets may be seen fel- 
lows dirty and almost naked, who have scraped to- 
gether a few coppers, and are now dealing monte. 
I have seen men play till they had lost all their mon- 
ey, then gamble their blanket, then their hat, and 
even the shirt on their back. They would lose all 
these with apparently perfect and stoical indifference, 
when at the same time it was probably the last they 
had. In this manner 1 have seen a shirt change own- 
ers three times in one day. 

The character of the Mexicans may be seen at a 
glance when I say that, morally, it is on a level with 
the foregoing in every thing, and this is not wonder- 
ful ; they are not so much to blame, when we consid- 
er the example set them by their priests. 



IN MEXICO. 267 

Their fandangoes is another thing worthy of notice. 
"Whenever one is decided on, they engage the music, 
and fire a few rockets, which is equivalent to a gen- 
eral invitation, when old and young flock to the house 
of dancing. Should this he small, the fandango is 
held in the yard. A gentleman selects his partner 
and goes on the floor ; liquor is then handed them, 
of which they drink, and pass it round to all hands. 
The music then commences, and the dancers step it, 
not in '' the light, fantastic toe" style, hut like a reg- 
ular negro hoe-down, each one trying to excel the 
other in making the most noise. This is continued 
till near morning, when all return to their homes, all 
more or less intoxicated, some beastly, others decent- 
ly, and others gentlemanly. 

At one of these fandangoes my life was put in some 
danger. It occurred as follows : A young man was 
there with his wife, a very pretty girl. I danced with 
her once, and after that sat down by her side to have 
a little chat. This made the husband jealous ; and 
as he was drunk, he acted without reason. He went 
home, got his sword, and came back, avowing his de- 
termination of killing me, saying that, as to having 
a Yankee dance with his wife, he would not suffer it. 
Some one told me of his intentions, and that he was 
then in the yard, waiting for me to pass out, when he 
would attack me. I gave them some money to treat 
him to all he would drink, and paid no more atten- 
tion to it. When the party broke up, he was so drunk 
that he could not possibly do me any hurt. But this 
was not the end of the affair, for he had been very 
much excited, and now resolved on revenge. In or- 



268 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

der to obtain it, he carried his sword for several days, 
ill the hopes of having a chance of attacking me un- 
aw^ares. But I carried one also ; and, so long as I was 
on my guard, he durst not molest me. In a few days 
his ire appeared to have cooled. 

At this time occurred the great celebration of the 
Carnival. They go round at night, breaking egg-shells 
on the heads of persons. These are filled with flour, 
and scented with Cologne, or rose water, or some other 
rich odor. When it commenced I was standing in 
the street, idling away the time as best I could, when, 
all of a sudden, my hat was removed, and a number 
of these odious shells were broken on my devoted head. 
Not being aware of the custom, I quickly turned, and, 
before I was aware of it, had knocked down the man 
who was guilty of what I considered this insult. A 
tumult was raised ; they threatened to kill me, and 
perhaps would have done so, had not some one gone 
after the alcalde. He came and inquired into the 
matter, then ordered them to let me alone for the fu- 
ture, and took me back to his house. Were it not 
for my friend Don Jesus Murguir, and the alcalde, 
I fear I would not have been long in this world ; bijt 
when I was in difficulty, right or wrong, I was sure 
of their protection. 

This diversion is practiced several nights in succes- 
sion, varied occasionally by throwing flour in persons' 
faces. It is followed by the religious season of Lent, 
which continues forty days ; and it is the custom 
throughout Mexico to have mass, or at least religious 
service, every morning during all that time. When 
the festival commenced, the people assembled as usual 



m MEXICO. 269 

in the morning. "When they came out of church, I 
noticed, with some curiosity, that all the people had 
^ cross painted on their foreheads. For what purpose 
this was done, I could not ascertain. This they wore 
for one week ; and then commenced the processions. 
One morning I resolved to observe one of these closely, 
to see all that could be seen. The procession form- 
ed in the suburbs of the town, so thither I went. 
On coming up, I saw the priest mounting a donkey, 
richly caparisoned, and led by two boys. The streets 
were strewed with flowers, evergreens, and the finest 
blankets. This, I suppose, was intended to represent 
the entry of Christ into Jerusalem. They were at- 
tended with music, banners were flying, and rockets 
were fired. They went through the principal streets, 
then turned up to the church ; but, as they were go- 
ing through the Plaza, some other donkeys commenced 
braying, when the one that was rode by the represent- 
ative of Christ answered it, and started off*, notwith- 
standing the exertions of the boys to prevent him. 
"When he found he had some difficulty in getting away, 
he began to kick and plunge, and, finally, he threw 
his- priestship off". This scene was so comical and ri- 
diculous, that, had it broken his neck, I could not have 
avoided smiling, and laughing when I had a better 
chance. Not so with them, however, for not a smile 
could be seen on a single face. People were coming 
in from all parts of the country to witness the cere- 
monies and to confess, this being the time for a gen- 
eral confession. 

At this time I was invited by a gentleman to visit 
one of his gold mines some ten leagues distant. Our 



'270 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

route v^as entirely in the mountains, and the sceiiery 
was occasionally sublime. Along the sides of the 
mountains, the path was so narrow that the mule 
scarcely had room to plant his feet. On one side of 
us rose a precipice, almost perpendicular, to a great 
height ; on the other side wa^s a dark and unfathom- 
able abyss. About four in the afternoon we came 
to the Barranca, so named from the fact of its being 
built in a guUey. 

We stopped at the house of a friend. A servant 
took charge of our beasts, and we were invited to 
the house. I was soon on familiar terms with the 
inmates, whom I found far superior to their condi- 
tion; their manners, intelligence, and the arrange- 
ments of their house all bespoke them as belonging to 
a class superior to those around them. There was in 
the family a young lady, more beautiful and refined 
than any I had yet seen in this country, with pierc- 
ing black eyes, soft auburn hair, and a complexion 
perfectly white, and an eminently fine form. There 
was about her a dignity and charming simplicity 
which rendered her irresistible. A cup of chocolate 
was given us as a lunch, when the young lady in- 
vited me to go into the garden to see her flowers and 
eat some fruit. This invitation I of course would not 
refuse. I scarcely believed she was a Mexican, so 
different was she from the rest of my acquaintances. 
In the management of her garden I admired her 
taste as much as Jier person. So anxious was I to 
ascertain the history of her family, that I could not 
restrain from asking if they had always lived here. 
She said not ; and as I appeared to be anxious to 
learn it, she related the followin": facts. 



IN MEXICO. 271 

Her father had once been rich, and held the com- 
mission of general in the army. In some revolution 
he was deprived of his commission, and his property- 
was confiscated to government. He then moved his 
family to this retired and secluded spot, and was now 
engaged in mining operations. We were now called 
into the house, and during the evening the young 
lady and her mother played on the harp and guitar, 
accompanied with their voices. They showed plainly 
that, whatever their opportunities might have been, 
they had not been neglected. 

Next morning we arose and departed early. Our 
ride to-day was short, for we came to the mine in two 
hours. It had been worked to the depth of four hund- 
red feet, and produced, on an average, three ounces 
per day. I was told it had been worked over a cen- 
tury. The owner employed, in all his operations in 
this mine, some sixty men, to whom he paid two and 
three shillings per day. His major-domo, or chief di- 
rector and overseer, received five hundred dollars per 
annum. G-reat caution and watchfulness was requi- 
site to prevent the Mexicans from stealing any of the 
metal. Toward night we returned to the Barranca, 
where we arrived soon after dark, and which we left 
early next morning. After I was in the saddle, the 
young lady before spoken of came and presented me 
with a bottle of good wine, remarking that, when I 
was far away, I must not forget her. We returned 
by the same route that we had come, and arrived at 
home about dusk. 

This gentleman lived at Grarabato, five leagues dis- 
tant. He encouraged me with hopes of getting in 



273 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

profitable business in his mine if I would come and 
live with him. Supposing that the offer was made 
in good faith, I accepted it. He told me that his 
overseer was going to leave. This situation I should 
have accepted, with the object of obtaining money 
sufficient to carry me home, and, if I was lucky, of 
remaining till I had accumulated a small pile. 

I now bid adieu to my friends in Amatlan, and 
went to Grarabato, where I remained three months. 
Soon after coming here I found that the offer which 
had been made me was a mere bubble ; the man had 
no intention whatever of fulfilling his promises. 
/ G-arabato is not so large as Amatlan, nor is it so 
* compactly built. The houses were originally built 
just where it suited their owners, regardless of reg- 
ularity or order ; consequently, the streets are narrow 
and very crooked, but the country around is fertile 
and well cultivated, and fruit is raised with great 
care. A church stands in what they call the square ; 
but, strange to tell, there is no priest in the place. 
This is a circumstance that I never before observed, 
even in a small place, and the only solution I could 
give to the enigma was, that the people were not de- 
vout enough to support a priest. Many of the wealth- 
iest informed me that they had not confessed for a 
great many years, neither had they paid their tithes 
to the bishop, and their example was followed by the 
poorer classes. The result of this course was a great 
falling off in the influence of the priests. The peo- 
ple in general are rather remiss in observing their re- 
ligious fasts and festivals, and showing, in a manner 
not to be misunderstood, that the influence of their 



IN MEXICO. 273 

great father the pope is utterly lost. During the sea- 
son of Lent, when in other places they were holding 
celebrations, and fandangoes were prohibited, here 
amusements of every kind were freely engaged in. 

An incident worthy of note occurred at this time. 
Some of the people wanted a fandango, and it was 
necessary for them to get a license from the alcaide ; 
but he, on account of its being a time of festival, re- 
fused to give one. This was on Saturday. A report 
of his refusal was made to Antonio Parra, the gen- 
tleman with whom I was then residing. On Sunday 
he went to his highness and demanded a license ; it 
was d,gain refused. He then called together the ay- 
untamiento, or common council, and demanded one. 
His wealth was greater than that of any other man 
in the place, and, consequently, his influence was 
greater than even the alcalde's ; so the council gave 
him one without delay. This was early in the morn- 
ing ; rockets were at once fired ; the music was got 
together, and they took the rounds of the village, go- 
ing first to the alcalde's office, and then to his house, 
as a mark of triumph and contempt. A barrel of 
liquor was now brought into the street, and the head 
knocked in ; then all came up and drank, men and 
women, boys and girls, and in a short time almost 
the entire town was completely drunk. 

The music now went back to the house of the al- 
calde, when Antonio Parra and this officer fell into a 
fight. A rush was made on both sides, and the fight 
became general. An attempt was made by the friends 
of the alcalde to carry Parra to jail ; but he had a 
great many friends, and to succeed was impossible. 
M2 



274 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

This was the first and last instance in which I ever 
saw the alcalde's authority directly and successfully 
resisted. During the whole day and night shouts 
were heard in favor of Antonio Parra forever. The 
authority of the alcalde in this place was scarcely re- 
garded. An appeal from him to Parra was generally 
successful. 

I at this place became experimentally acquainted 
with an animal which is held in great dread by the 
Mexicans, who call it alacran. In English it is 
scorpion. I was one evening sitting in the door of a 
house, when I felt something running up my leg 
under my clothes. Not thinking what it was, I put 
my hand on it to push it down again, when it stung 
me just below the knee. The poison was rapidly 
communicated to my whole body. I experienced a 
pricking and deadening sort of pain, and felt as though 
ten thousand fine needles were sticking in my body. 
My system was, in a great measure, deprived of the 
power of action. I tried to bleed myself by insert- 
ing my penknife in the place that was stung ; but no 
blood appeared, only a little water of a greenish color. 
I then drank about half a pint of liquor, and, strange 
to say, it had not the least effect in producing intox- 
ication, as I had hoped, but it lessened the pain con- 
siderably. 

During the whole night it was impossible for me 
to sleep. I rolled from side to side in perfect agony. 
A raging thirst now tormented me. I tried to walk, 
but could scarcely stand. At length I heard some 
one stirring, when I crawled to my door, and called 
for some water. It was brought me ; and when I 



IN MEXICO. 275 

drank, my throat felt as though it was full of fine long 
hair, for at every draught that I took the hair seemed 
to rise on the water and completely choke me. For 
two or three days I was in great danger, but at the 
end of the sixth I was entirely well. 



276 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 



CHAPTER XII. 

Being deceived a second time, I start for Tepic with Secretary Muir- 
guir. — Ojala. — Common mode of Spinning. — Ahuacatlan. — Account 
of a Volcano. — Frequency of Robberies. — I am taken Sick. — Ar- 
rive at Tepic. — Long confined with a Fever. — Good OflSces of Mr. 
Whiting and other Countrymen. — Mineral Resources of Mexico. — 
Abundance of Gold. — Agricultural Resources. — Farming Imple- 
ments, — Advantages of Mexico for Manufacturing. — Climate. — 
Summary of the Condition of Mexico. — Journey to San Bias. — 
Musquitoes. — Condition of the Town. — Go on board the United 
States ship Lexington. — Sail for the United States in the Cyane. 
— Usages on board a Man-of-war. — Religious Exercises and Instruc- 
tion. — Hard Subjects. — Valparaiso.— A singular Race. — Arrive in 
the United States. 

I NOW became thoroughly convinced that it was not 
the intention of Antonio Parra to perform a single 
one of his promises to me. I had been so often de- 
ceived by him and others that I had no confidence 
whatever in their word. In fact, where they are not 
bound to its fulfillment by a pecuniary consideration, 
it never need be expected that they will do as they 
agree. Honor with them is a principle that has be- 
come obsolete ; they have no more idea of the value 
of their word of honor than a horse has of gold. I 
therefore determined to go to Tepic, and accordingly 
borrowed a horse and saddle of my kind host to go 
to Amatlan for three or four days. I knew that my 
friend, Jesus Muirguir, intended to go soon, and it 
was my intention to go with him, and keep this horse 



IN MEXICO. 277 

till I got to Tepic. The manner in wMcli I had been 
deceived justified me in so doing. 

Having gone to Amatlan, and made arrangements 
with my friend, we started the third day in the even- 
ing. "We chose the evening because it was cooler 
traveling. Being obliged to cross the mountains, we 
followed a gulley for some distance, during which 
time we crossed a stream seventy times. The next 
morning, about break of day, we came to Iztlan, the 
place whence I had started the fall before with Don 
Pedro Martinez. Here we remained two days, and 
again started at night for Tepic. 

On this night's tramp we lost our way, and wan- 
dered round for some time, but could not find it. We 
then tied our horses to the fence, rolled ourselves in 
our blankets, and went to sleep. Next morning we 
resumed our search for the road, but for a long time 
Were unsuccessful. At last we espied a man on horse- 
back, and hailed him ; but he did not answer us, 
doubtless supposing us to be robbers. I then rode 
after him. He increased his speed, anxious to keep 
out of our reach ; but at last I overtook him, and in- 
quired the road to Ojala, the place whither we were 
going. He pointed it out to me, and we then pur- 
sued our journey. In two hours we arrived at the 
place of our destination, and went to the house of a 
friend, where we remained two days. 

Here are two villages close together. One is in- 
habited entirely by Indians. The houses are built 
in the Indian style ; but they have a beautiful church. 
The other one is a large and well-built town, con- 
taining three large churches. The surrounding coun- 



278 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

try is very beautiful. For miles around it is per- 
fectly level, and not a weed nor bush is to be seen. 
The mountains are full of mineral v^ealth ; but a 
great want of enterprise is apparent in all parts of this 
country. 

To commence farming operations in Mexico great 
capital is not needed. Labor is cheap ; working 
cattle may be bought for thirty or forty dollars, and 
cows from four to ten dollars each, while all kinds of 
produce bear a good price. G-ood land may be had 
at very low prices. Near this village land may be 
bought for twenty dollars an acre, which, in the Unit- 
ed States, would, under the same circumstances, cost 
from seventy-five to one hundred dollars. Mexico has 
also every facility to make it one of the best manu- 
facturing countries, both of woolen and cotton goods. 
Of the latter there are several already in operation. 
The raw material is brought from the United States 
and South America, very little cotton being raised in 
Mexico ; but any quantity might be raised, if they 
had enterprise enough to introduce and attend to it. 
Their usual manner of making thread is very old- 
fashioned. They have no spinning-wheels, but, as a 
substitute, they use a long, slender spindle, which 
they dextrously whirl in a common saucer. While 
it is whirling, they spin out the required quantity, 
which is twisted into a fine, even, and hard thread. 
When the spindle has lost its impetus, they whirl it 
again with the thumb and finger, as a boy would 
whirl his top. This is a slow method, but it is the 
only one in general use among the Mexicans. I ques- 
tion very much if a Yankee would have been long 



IN MEXICO. ^ 279 

contented with this slow process of making so import- 
ant an article as thread. 

We remained in Ojala two days, when we started 
again and traveled to Ahuacatlan. This I found to 
be a large and well-built town. It was Sunday, and 
the streets and Plaza were full of people ; here we 
stayed till noon, and on going into the yard to get our 
horses, I found that mine had been stolen. I made 
inquiries, but no one knew any thing about him ; so I 
started on foot, changing alternately with Don Jesus, 
who still had his horse in possession. 

Near Ahuacatlan we passed a volcano. Yolumes 
of dense black smoke ascended therefrom, and it oc- 
casionally roared a little, just to let the inhabitants 
know that it was still alive, yet it was comparatively 
quiet to what it had been in former times. Earth- 
quakes are very frequent, and I experienced several 
shocks ; but as no houses tumbled down, nor was any 
material damage done, I have not thought it worth 
while to mention them. I was told that at times 
this volcano threw up large rocks and lava in abund- 
ance ; and a little further on I saw evidence of the 
devastations it had committed. Before us lay what 
had once been a beautiful valley ; but now it was 
buried some thirty feet under lava, thrown out dur- 
ing some terrible eruption. This lava field extend- 
ed in some directions as far as the eye could pene- 
trate, and was about two miles wide. The surface 
was hard and craggy, and so sharp that it was im- 
possible to walk over it. A road had been made over 
it by hammering down the sharp points, just wide 
enough for a coach to pass ; and it was now worn 



280 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

smooth. The scene was one of the wildest and bleak- 
est that I ever saw. I now, for the first time in my 
life, had seen an active volcano, and its terrible ef- 
fects. Much as I admire all that is beautiful and 
grand in creation, I desire to see no more scenes like 
this. I could not think that I was out of danger so 
long as I was in its vicinity. 

We hastened on as fast as possible, intending to 
reach San Isabel that night. That afternoon we over- 
took a man with whom my comrade was acquainted, 
who also was going to Tepic. This was a welcome 
addition to our number, as the road was said to be 
infested with robbers. This word is of very common 
occurrence in the speech of this country. A Mexican 
can not go from home and return without being ask- 
ed, " Did you meet any robbers ?" A man can hardly 
lie down at night without apprehension of danger. 
And, in short, they are kept in such continual fear of 
danger, real or imaginary, that life with them is hard- 
ly a blessing. 

In this instance the report did not prove to be false ; 
for, as I was traveling ahead of my companions, 1 
met two men in a thick part of the woods, who were 
mounted on two splendid horses. They seemed to 
have just darted out of the bushes, for they rode up 
to me with all speed, one on each side. Knowing 
that help would soon come, I made all the resistance 
I could. I picked up a large stone, threw it with all 
my force, and hit one of the men on the face. This 
staggered him a moment ; but he soon recovered, and 
was about commencing other operations, as I could 
see by his getting his lasso ready to throw, when, on 



IN MEXICO. 281 

looking Up, they saw my comrades coming round a 
turn in the road. They then made off with ail speed 
into the chapparal. After this I was more careful to 
keep closer to them. 

We came to San Isabel some time after dark. It 
is but a large rancho, and presents nothing worthy 
of note. The next morning we made an early start, 
and that day suffered a good deal for want of water, 
of which there was a great scarcity ; and the ranches 
were " few and far between." 

Toward night we again lost our way ; and after 
wandering about some time in hopes of discovering 
the path, we saw a house just at the bottom of a 
hill, where we remained till the next morning. We 
were then only about eight leagues from Tepic, and 
made an early start. Wishing to get there before 
night. When about two leagues from the city I was 
taken sick, but I did not give up until I had got with- 
in a mile and a half of that place. Being unable to 
go further, I went into a house and obtained per- 
mission to lie down for a while, my fellow-traveler 
promising to return before night with another horse 
and bring me in. I was attacked with a raging 
fever. The house in which I was resting was alone, 
and far from any other ; and when I went in, it was 
occupied only by women. From them I received 
every attention ; but some time after a man came in, 
who I thought was somewhat the worse for liquor. 
He urged me to drink with him ; and as I could not, 
he began to abuse me. Then he tried to force some 
down. This kind of attention in my then state was 
any thing but agreeable. The women took pity on 



282 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

me, and tried to make him leave me ; but he became 
exasperated, drove them out of the room, then drag- 
ged me out, and there left me. I had just strength 
enough to crawl under the fence, and there I remain- 
ed I know not how long. 

After some time a Mexican gentleman came along, 
who, seeing me in that condition, inquired of the 
women in the house what the matter was. They 
told him, and also the treatment that I had received. 
He took pity on me, put me on his horse, and started 
on to Tepic. Just before entering the city I met 
Muirguir coming out with another horse after me. 

I was taken to a meson, in a room of which I was 
left perfectly helpless. There was some great ex- 
citement in the city, and they were there the whole 
time, while I was alone, burning with a raging fever, 
and parched with thirst. If I wanted any thing, I 
was forced either to wait for them to come in, or to 
take my shoe and rap on the side wall of the room. 
Sometimes I was heard, and sometimes not. In this 
way two long and miserable days passed by, during 
which I suffered much for want of water. At the 
end of this time I called a boy into the room and of- 
fered him two shillings to bring an American to see 
me. He was gone about an hour, when he came 
back, and a gentleman along with him. I inquired 
if he was an American. He said he was. I then told 
him of my situation, my captivity, escape, wishes, 
&c. He at once ordered some tea and other things 
to be given me, and presented me with two dollars. 
He then left, promising to return the next morning 
with another gentleman, when they would do some- 



IN MEXICO. 283 

thing of a more permanent nature for me. That 
night my fever ahated, and I slept well. The next 
morning the two gentlemen came again to see me; 
and as I was still unable to support myself, they had 
me carried to the factory, where the director, whose 
name is John Whiting, hired my hoard, for which he 
paid three dollars per week. During part of the time 
he employed a nurse, and also got a doctor to visit 
me. I was on his hands a little more than six weeks. 

While I was here. Lieutenant Beal, of the navy, 
of whom so much has been said, visited the factory. 
He was then on his journey across the country to 
Mexico. 

- As soon as I was able to mount a horse, it was 
thought best for me to go to San Bias, distaijt sixt)'' 
miles. The United States ship Lexington was then 
stationed there, and was to leave in a few days. To 
Captain Bailey, of that ship, I had letters of recom- 
mendation and introduction from Captain Basil, of 
Tepic. A horse was furnished me, and a servant 
was sent along to take care of me and bring the horse 
back. Previous to starting, a purse of twenty dol- 
lars was made up for me. 

The next morning, June 6th, I bid adieu to my 
kind friends. This was a hard task. I was a per- 
fect stranger, yet they treated me as they would a 
brother. Mr. Whiting's expenses, on my account, 
could not have been less than fifty dollars. I had 
no claims on them further than those of humanity ; 
but they fed me, clothed me, and when I was sick, 
ministered to my wants. What more could they 
have done ? I feel perfectly satisfied that, had I not 



284 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

fallen into their hands, I should not now he alive. 
My long exposures, and various fatigues and suifer- 
ings, had completely hroken down my constitution, 
and even at this day I have hy no means entirely re- 
covered ; hut the prompt medical attendance that was 
procured me arrested the disease and saved my life. 
The consciousness that this is the case must he their 
reward. I am only sorry that I can not show my 
gratitude in a more tangihle form. 

Before resuming my regular suhject, I shall make 
a few final remarks relative to the appearance and 
resources of this country. It is mostly very mount- 
ainous. Look where you will, lofty mountains meet 
the eye ; these are full of many and valuahle mines, 
some of which are worked, others not. Yaluahle 
mines are frequently discovered that were formerly 
worked, and stopped up at the commencement of the 
revolution. The earth that was hanked up over the 
mouth caves in, and discovers to the passer-by a very 
valuahle mine. It is well known that, before the rev- 
olutionary war, many valuable mines were worked 
whose locations are not now known ; the entrances 
had been covered over, and all knowledge of their ex- 
istence had passed away ; but these are gradually re- 
discovered as the embankments cave in, and some of 
them are now worked to great advantage. 

Grold is found in considerable quantities in the ar- 
royos, having been washed there during the rainy 
season. This was discovered in the following man- 
ner : A shepherd was on the mountains tending sheep, 
when, coming to one of these arroyos, he discovered 
several bright yellow particles ; this exciting his cu- 



IN MEXICO. 285 

riosity, he gathered up some of the sand, washed it 
out, and then found that he had gathered several dol- 
lars' worth of gold. He kept this discovery a secret, 
and continued digging and washing. Some days he 
would get from forty to sixty dollars, and finally he 
had obtained some five hundred dollars before it was 
found out where he got it. When the secret was dis- 
covered, the people all flocked to the mountains, and 
the arroyos were filled with gold-hunters. For a while 
they were successful, averaging from two to three dol- 
lars a day. But the gold after a while became ex- 
hausted ; and as they searched no further, they gave 
it up until the next rainy season, when they again 
resorted to the mountains. 

The above information I derived from the Ameri- 
can residents of Tepic. It was their opinion that gold 
might be found in great abundance in the river bot- 
toms, and on all lands that are overflowed by the wa- 
ter from the mountains during the rainy season, the 
same as it is now found in California. In my hum- 
ble opinion, the vicinity of Tepic might be a better 
place to go to with a view of digging gold. The cli- 
mate is as healthy as that of California, while cloth- 
ing and the expenses of living are at least more than 
one half cheaper. Had I not been so completely bro- 
ken down in health, I should have remained here a 
while to test the value of my faith in these deposites. 

The Mexicans, I was informed, never ascend the 
mountain very high, and search out only where they 
can dig out loose sand, which they wash ; but in some 
of the valleys it was known that the soil has accumu- 
lated from one to three feet by the wash from the 



286 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

mountains. This might afford a rich return to the 
laborer. Or rich veins might be discovered by going 
up the mountains, as the existence of gold there is 
fully proved by the rich deposits it annually sends to 
the valleys beneath. 

This mineral wealth is not confined to the vicinity 
of Tepic, for in most of the mountains of Mexico 
mines of either gold, silver, or copper have been dis- 
covered. More has been found out by accident than 
as the reward of a persevering search. It is often 
the case, during the dry season, that a fire breaks out 
on the mountains, and burns off all the vegetable mat- 
ter, leaving the rocks perfectly bare ; then, if any one 
has industry and perseverance enough to make a 
search, he is generally richly rewarded. 

Another gTcat yet neglected resource of Mexico is 
its agriculture. Much of its surface is indeed unfit 
for tillage ; yet even that which is not is greatly neg- 
lected. Their agricultural implements are few, and 
are, I should think, much the same as our great grand- 
sire Adam constructed. They yoke their oxen to- 
gether by means of a straight stick of wood, which 
is firmly tied to their horns with a long strip of raw 
hide cut up for that purpose. Their plow is gener- 
ally nothing more than a stick of wood pointed at one 
end, though sometimes it is pointed with iron. This 
is about two and a half or three feet in length. From 
the end of this rises another upright stick, used for 
a handle. Where this handle is attached to the plow, 
there is also fastened a long pole, which is fixed to 
the yoke. This simple apparatus serves the double 
purpose of a plow and a harrow. All the rest of 



IN MEXICO. 287 

their implements are equally rude and inefficient. 
By means of these they manage to eke out an exist- 
ence ; but I venture to say that they do not obtain from 
the land one quarter of the produce which it would 
yield if it were in skillful hands and under a stable 
government. With proper attention to the seasons, 
and more thorough working and manuring, an abund- 
ance might be raised for exportation ; and as prod- 
uce commands a good price, a farmer might soon re- 
alize a handsome fortune. 

Another great resource of Mexico is its manufac- 
turing advantages. There are several cotton factories 
already in operation ; and, from the prices their fab- 
rics command, they are making an immense fortune. 
But many more are wanted ; and, in addition to these, 
woolen factories are much needed. An abundance 
of water power is yet unoccupied ; and wool may be 
had in abundance at a cheap rate. Sheep may be 
raised in any quantities at a comparatively trifling 
expense. Cattle can be raised to great advantage ; 
and the making of butter and cheese might be a 
source of great profit. 

The climate of Mexico is not, as a general thing, 
unhealthy. It is so only on the sea-coast and low 
lands ; but as you ascend the table lands in the in- 
terior, the atmosphere becomes cool, pure, and brac- 
ing. This part of Mexico is, in my opinion, as healthy 
as any country in the world. 

Who is to have the honor of developing the re- 
sources of Mexico ? That this will never be fully 
done under the present rule, past history too plainly 
shows. It will evidently be those who, at some fu- 



288 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ture time, v^ill give law and a stable government to 
that now distracted country. "Whoever will do so 
may reap ample rewards from their rich fields and 
valuable mines. What Mexico is now, California 
was ; what it now is, Mexico would be, if it were 
under a similar government. It has all the advant- 
ages of California, with but few of its disadvantages. 
It is further removed from the frontier, and is less 
subject to incursions from hostile Indians. Added to 
this, the country is more densely peopled, and affords 
a good market for all kinds of productions. 

To sum up the character of Mexico. In natural 
resources she is one of the richest countries in the 
world, and yet she is actually one of the poorest. She 
has a very rich soil, but it is miserably cultivated. 
She has nominally a most liberal government, yet it 
is actually quite despotic. Her people are apparently 
very devout and religious, yet they are extremely de- 
ficient on the score of morality and honor. She has 
many seminaries of learning very munificently en- 
dowed, yet the masses are nearly as ignorant as sav- 
ages. 

With these remarks I take my leave of Mexico. 
If I have made any misstatements, they are the re- 
sult of wrong information; for I have taken great 
care to write nothing except what I either saw or 
received from what I might consider good authority. 
I will now resume my narrative at the place where 
I left off. 

I had started for San Bias. Our road the first day 
was dreary enough ; we were all the time passing 
high hills and deep valleys. The country around, so 



IN MEXICO. 289 

far as the eye could reach, was at times a dreary and 
uninhabited waste. The soil was mostly fertile, hut 
the climate is very unhealthy. 

That day I was able to go only half of the way, 
and about three o'clock I stopped at a large rancho. 
The weather had been exceedingly hot, but the night 
was still warmer. Added to this, the musquitoes al- 
most drove me crazy. Speak of the musquitoes of 
Michigan or Arkansas as large and savage ! It may 
all be ; but those that troubled me at this place beat 
them to nothing. When I found that there was no 
sleep, I started to smoke them away ; but all would 
not do. They had smelled the blood of a Yankee, 
and they were determined to have it. I then thought 
that if there was no rest here I might as well go on ; 
so the servant got the horse ready, and I mounted 
and started, it being about three o'clock in the morn- 
ing. 

My guide was not well acquainted with the road, 
it being a new one, and the consequence was, we 
lost our way. In trying to find it we got into a 
quagmire, which detained us more than two hours ; 
yet daylight did not appear. At last we got out, and 
found a path, which we took, and soon came to a 
house. Here was a river to cross, and the bridge had 
been swept away by a flood ; so we could not cross 
till daylight. At this place the musquitoes troubled 
us worse than where we had stayed part of the night ; 
but we built a fire and sat in the smoke, and this 
partly relieved us from their kind attentions. 

At last we could see the gray streaks of morn ap- 
pearing ; and soon a man came up to us, and point- 

N 



290 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ed to a ford a little atove us, where we could cross. 
He said that we had come just half way to San Bias. 
We got a breakfast, and started on over a level road. 
The water was a little brackish ; and on passing to 
within ten miles of the sea, the land appears to have 
been overflowed by it. A white incrustation covered 
nearly all the surface of the ground. For some dis- 
tance the road was built up about three feet above 
the level of the water ; otherwise it would not have 
been passable. And it was the most crooked road 
imaginable, being made so to suit the whims of the 
most winding river in the world. 

When we came in sight of the town, it appeared 
from this side like the ruins of some ancient castle, 
situated on a high hill. We soon entered it, and 
found that it was almost as ruinous as it looked when 
we first came in sight. It was regularly laid out, 
and had once been of considerable importance, being 
the only sea-port for that portion of Mexico, and pos- 
sessing considerable commerce. But at the present 
time it is nearly deserted, and many of its public 
buildings are a mass of ruins. Complete solitude 
appeared to reign throughout the place. 

I rested a few moments in a building that was 
formerly occupied by the British consul. The stafl" 
was still standing on which once waved proud Brit- 
ain's haughty flag. But I was anxious to go aboard 
of the ship, so I took my things and went down to 
the landing on foot. The distance was over half a 
mile ; and when I got there, I was completely ex- 
hausted. I soon made arrangements with a Mexican 
to take me on board, for which I gave him one dollar. 



IN MEXICO. 291 

We had a long, narrow canal-boat, in which he placed 
a chair for me to sit. The boat rocked and tipped, 
and I was afraid that in so frail a craft it was dan- 
gerous to go out of the harbor, as there was a consid- 
erable sea runnmg ; but the pilot said nothing, and I 
did not. When we got out into the ocean, however, 
the waves rolled so high that the water flowed mto 
the boat. This alarmed the boatman as well as my- 
self, and he was desirous to go back. This was as 
dangerous as to go on. So I ordered him on, and 
took a cup and bailed out the water as fast as it 
came in. 

In about an hour we came alongside of the ship. 
As I was too weak to climb up, a rope was lowered 
to me, which I tied round under my arms. They 
then hauled me on board, and I was again free. I 
requested to see the captain, and was conducted to 
his cabin. I gave him my letter, and after reading 
it, he asked me several questions relative to my fare 
while m Mexico, &c., and promised to send me home 
in the first vessel that went. This was on Tuesday, 
the 7th of June, 1848. 

The next day they hoisted anchor, and set sail for 
Mazatlan. Just as we came in sight of this place 
we met another vessel, which they made out to be 
the Cyane, which was bound home. The Lexington 
then went back to San Bias and anchored, and the 
Cyane did the same. Captain Bailey then went on 
board of her ; and just as he was starting, I begged^ 
him, if possible, to engage a passage for me home. 
To this he pledged himself. He soon returned, but 
brought me no encouragement. He said that Cap- 



292 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

tain Dupont, of the Cyane, would come on board the 
Lexington in the afternoon, and give me an answer. 
My anxiety was indescribable. Home ! home I was 
what I mostly cared for. The surgeon of the Lex- 
ington advised me not to go, as my health was such 
that it was doubtful whether I would live to reach 
the States. To this I answered that I would go at 
all hazards ; and if permission was given me to do so, 
no consideration would induce me to forego the op- 
portunity. Whence this strong attachment to home ? 
I had been a wanderer " o'er the world's wide waste," 
and experienced every vicissitude that a man could 
well experience ; and now, when I thought my thread 
of life was nearly run, it was the earnest desire of 
my heart to die near my native home, if I was des- 
tined to see its hills and valleys no more. 

In the afternoon Captain Dupont came on board, 
and I was called up before him. He asked me when 
and where I was captured, the reasons for making 
my escape, &c., to which I answered satisfactorily. 
He then asked if I was anxious to go home. To this 
I replied, that if he had been in captivity as long, 
and suffered as much as I had suffered, and should 
finally make his escape, I believe he would also be 
anxious to go home the first opportunity. At this 
he smiled, and said that I might go. These words 
fairly made my heart leap to my mouth. No crim- 
inal condemned to death could have heard of his re- 
prieve when on the scaffold w:ith greater joy than I 
did these words of Captain Dupont. Had I been pos- 
sessed of thousands, in the fullness of my gratitude^ 
I would have given it all to him. There was a sailor, 



IN MEXICO. 293 

whose term of service had expired, who was also go- 
ing on hoard. 

The next day we left the Lexington and went on 
board the Cyane. Just as we were over the bul- 
warks, the first lieutenant met us with a paper in 
his hand, and told the sailor to follow him to the cap- 
stan. Not knowing any better, I went also. The 
lieutenant eyed me sharply for some time, and then, 
in tones that I suppose were intended to sink me into 
nothing, asked, "Who are you ?" I answered, in tones 
equally important, "A soldier, sir." " Where are you 
from?" "The ship Lexington." "Who sent you 
here ?" " Captain Bailey." Then, in still louder 
tones, he asked, "Where in h — 1 are you going to ?" 
" The United States, sir. Any more questions to 
ask ?" He then looked on the paper which had 
been sent from the other ship with the names of the 
passengers, and, seeing mine, he told me to go for- 
ward. I now knew that, by treating a man of his 
rank with so little deference, I had made him my 
enemy ; for there is nothing that most naval officers 
will resent more quickly in their inferiors than neg- 
lecting to appear before them with abject submis- 
sion. 

Of the customs of a man-of-war I at the time was 
ignorant ; and I never yet learned to treat an officer, 
whatever might be his rank, as any thing but an 
equal. All that I apprehended from the first lieu- 
tenant was a few petty annoyances, which he, in a 
vindictive spirit, might cause me. As for mflicting 
any corporal punishment, I knew he durst not, as I 
was only a passenger. 



294 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I was assigned to a mess, and soon made myself 
as comfortable as was possible in such a crowd. Of 
the crew there were two hundred and twenty, be- 
sides the officers. The ship was taking in provisions 
and water preparatory to setting sail. Here every 
thing was new to me, and I seemed to be always in 
the way. Go where I would, I could remain but a 
few moments before some one would come along and 
ask me to move. I then went below ; but here, too, 
all was confusion and hurry. I managed, however, 
to get acquainted with the sailors, and while con- 
versing with them I was not annoyed, for they saw 
when I would be in the way, and warned me to re- 
move in time. 

In two days more all was ready ; the anchor was 
hoisted, sails set, and San Bias was fast disappear- 
ing. On one side was the vast expanse of the Pa- 
cific, and on the other a low blue streak marked the 
shore ; even this at last disappeared. I soon became 
quite familiar with things around me. The boat- 
swain's shrill whistle I soon understood, and the pip- 
ing up of the watches, instead of causing me to start 
from my hammock, would tell me the hour of the 
night. 

On first coming on board this ship I was struck 
with surprise on seeing such unlimited and absolute 
power given into the hands of a single individual as 
there is to the commander of a man-of-war. Some 
use this power with moderation, while others have 
rendered themselves perfectly odious to the crew by 
their tyranny. The ship is their kingdom, and over 
it they rule with absolute sway. The men are some- 



IN MEXICO. 295 

times looked upon as brutes, and treated according- 
ly. Should any of them be so unfortunate as to tread 
on a young midshipman's toe, he is at once reported 
to the captain as having been guilty of treating his 
superior officer with disrespect. Soon after the boat- 
swain's shrill whistle is heard, and a call for "J.ZZ 
hands alioy to witness 'punislimentP There stands 
the captain and his officers. The former, clothed 
with supreme authority, tells the culprit the nature 
of his crime ; no chance for explanation or apology 
is given, and if any is attempted he is cut short by 
the order to strip. This being done, his feet are 
lashed to the gratings, and his hands tied to the gun. 
Just behind him stands the master at arms, whose 
duty it is to count, in a loud voice, the number of 
blows ; and at the side stands the boatswain's mate, 
wilh the instrument of punishment in his hands. At 
the words '' Do your duty, sir," he carefully draws the 
cords through his fingers to keep them straight, slow- 
ly raises his hand on high, and then rapidly, and with 
fearful effect, deals the torturing blows. By the time 
the allotted dozen are inflicted, the back is fairly cut 
in pieces. The offense for looking cross-wise at a 
midshipman and throwing him overboard is about the 
same, so far as the punishment is concerned.. 

On Sundays, when it is pleasant, all hands are re- 
quired to dress themselves in their best clothes, and 
at a certain hour they are called up on deck, when 
the captain, if there is no chaplain on board, says 
prayers. Then he appears as pious as an old Dutch 
minister ; but perhaps, within fifteen minutes after, 
he will be swearing at some of the sailors and flog- 



296 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

ging others. The religious instruction of these men 
generally amounts to this : '' Honor and obey the of- 
ficers of thy ship, and next to them thy Grod, and thou 
shalt escape punishment." 

Nothing worthy of note occurred until the night 
of the 4th of July, when some of the sailors contrived 
to get some liquor, and got about three sheets in the 
wind. One of the midshipmen was coming forward, 
toward whom the sailors bore a mortal grudge, when 
all at once an iron belaying-pin was hurled at his head, 
which just grazed his cheek. He turned and quickly 
went below, where he stayed the remainder of the 
night. To explain this, I will give a little of this 
young man's history, which will at once show what 
his character was, and how it followed him. He had 
been on the Pacific station nine years without once 
coming home. Thrice he had made the attempt. 
The first time he came as far as some of the West 
India islands ; but such was his cruelty to the crew 
that they swore he never should reach home. This 
alarmed him, and he was transferred to another ship, 
in which he went bacli on the Pacific without being 
examined, as was his intention. He remained there 
three years more, and again started home for ex- 
amination. He came to Rio Janeiro, but durst pro- 
ceed no further, on account of the ill will of the 
crew. Here he met another ship outward bound, to 
which he was transferred, and again he went back to 
the Pacific, and remained there three years longer ; 
he then came on board our ship as a passenger. But 
his reputation had preceded him, and the sailors omit- 
ted no opportunity of annoying him in every possible 



IN MEXICO. 297 

manner. This, however, was the only mstance in 
which they attempted violence. By keeping perfect- 
ly quiet, he now came home safe. 

The second lieutenant was another such character. 
"While on that coast, a sailor whom he had caused to 
be flogged seized him round the waist and jumped 
overboard, determined to be the death of him, even 
though he sacrificed his own life. 

Such instances are not very rare, but they are care- 
fully kept from the knowledge of the public. With 
regard to this assault on the middy, no notice was 
taken of it until our arrival at Valparaiso, where we 
arrived one Sunday morning about the last of July. 
Then the sailors were anxious to go on shore on lib- 
erty. For several days no notice was taken of their 
applications. At last the captain called the crew aft, 
and related this circumstance. He then said that if 
the authors of this attempt were made known, he 
would give them the desired liberty. This was touch- 
ing a sailor in a tender point. It requked them to 
betray their comrade to certain punishment. An ob- 
stinate silence was all the response the captain re- 
ceived. He had required what a sailor never would 
grant, namely, the betrayal of his comrade. They 
would sooner have died. At last, as nothing could 
be gained from them, the captain gave one half of the 
crew liberty for one day. The other half were to take 
it the next. When they came on board again, they 
were, for some trivial offense, put into the brig until 
the next morning. Then they were called up to re- 
ceive punishmenti Nineteen were thus punished at 
one time. 

N2 



298 TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES 

I did not go ashore with the sailors, but v^ent in 
company with Sergeant Sheppard, of the marines. 
The city was larger and more beautiful than I had 
any reason to expect from its appearance from the 
ship. It is almost entirely built on the hills, there 
being very little space round the harbor. As this 
city has been often described, I will give only a few 
brief notices. Its situation is very singular, being 
on the ascent of the hills, or tops, as the sailors call 
them. Every top has its particular name, and is very 
steep. Most of them are formed by means of steps 
the whole distance. The city is not regularly laid 
out in squares, but there is great uniformity in the 
buildings, which present a fine appearance. Their 
police is all mounted on horses, and armed with a 
sword and pistols. They may be found in every street, 
and in every part of the city. Some of their laws are 
quite singular. One of them prohibits the riding of 
horses through the streets faster than a walk ; and 
every transgressor is fined two dollars. 

Of this regulation I had experimental proof; for, 
soon after coming on shore, the sergeant and myself 
went to a livery-stable and got a horse to ride round 
the city. As we were leaving, the keeper told us of 
this regulation, that we might govern ourselves ac- 
cordingly. "We had been some time out, and were 
coming back, my horse prancing along, but not trot- 
ting. Soon one of the police came up, stopped my 
horse, and reached out his hand, saying, '^ Dos pesos, 
dos pesos^^ (two dollars). I asked what he wanted 
that for. " Because my horse was trotting," he said. 
At this instant some noise was made by my comrade 



IN MEXICO. 299 

that caused the guard to look round, when I put 
spurs to my horse. The animal started with all 
vengeance for the stable, and I let him go just where 
he chose, as he knew the way better than I did. 
When I started the policeman blew his whistle and 
followed after. This signal was followed by others ; 
and presently I saw a host standing in the street, ready 
to intercept me as I passed. But such was the speed 
of the animal that it was impossible ; and they also 
followed after. My horse ran through the market, 
jumped over fruit stands, knocking them here and 
there, and frightened some women and children not 
a little. At last he came to the stable, where he 
stopped. I jumped off, ran through into a back street, 
then went round the block, and came again to the sta- 
ble. There I found over a hundred policemen looking 
for me. As I had just come in from the main street, 
I was not suspected. My comrade now came in, but 
we did not speak to each other until after we had 
left the stable, when we had a hearty laugh at out- 
witting the police. 

In the afternoon we went into the country a short 
distance, but did not see enough to make it worth 
while giving a description of it. I will only say that, 
from the information I gathered, it is one of the most 
healthy climates in the world. The soil is immensely 
fertile, and the mountains produce large quantities 
of gold and silver. Its mines are said to be as rich as 
any in the world. 

We remained here fifteen days, when we again set 
sail. Our passage now was rougher than it had been. 
We were nearing the Southern Ocean, and a violent 



.-^ 



3(X) TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN MEXICO. 

gale drove us into the regions of almost perpetual 
darkness. We were far south of Cape Horn, and the 
day was only six hours long. The weather was the 
coldest that I ever experienced. This place is justly 
termed the terror of sailors. 

In about three weeks time we came into warmer 
weather. The winds had moderated, and we glided 
smoothly yet rapidly along. No stop was made at any 
port until we reached Norfolk, Ya., where we landed 
on the eleventh of October. 

As it regards the prediction of the surgeon of the 
Lexington, who said that I would not live to get home, 
I have only to say, that I was not only alive, but in 
better health than I had been for some time before. 
I now weighed one hundred and sixty pounds ; when 
I came on board at San Bias, I weighed but one hund- 
red and fifteen. I remained here a few days, and then 
went to Washington, where my dues were paid me. 
I then returned to my friends, who had long mourned 
me as dead. 



THE END. 



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